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An emotive new film by Emmy-nominated writer Paul Goodenough and Redwings Horse Sanctuary, and featuring Sir Stephen Fry, was released earlier this month (1 October).Redwings is campaigning to make low noise fireworks the standard (under 90 decibels) to help protect animals and people.More than 184 thousand people signed the charitys petition last year and a public consultation was launched by the Government, which is due to close today (7 October).In the film (embedded below), Sir Stephen Fry, Peter Egan, Kate Ford, Suzie Fletcher, Dan Richardson, Faye Winter, Olivia Bowen and Will Travers ask people to join in calling on the Government to reduce the maximum noise level of consumer fireworks. Everyone has donated their time for free.The film also includes Joanna whose horse died after a firework went off nearby; Ruth who moved house because of the trauma relentless fireworks was causing her dog; Inayah who is campaigning against the use of antisocial fireworks and armed service veteran Craig for who fireworks make life intolerable.As the audience, we are asked if this is what we want, for animals and vulnerable people to suffer for the enjoyment of others.Paul Goodenough and his team reached out to Redwings as part of his charity Rewriting Earths efforts to bring maximum attention to campaigns for good causes. Im over the moon to be doing my small part in bringing the conversation on dangerously loud fireworks to the mainstream, said Paul.I really dont care if they call me a killjoy for trying to stop them. I have only one interest; that I try everything I can to stop the suffering of animals. Whether through humour, film, music, drama or comicsits all negotiable. My commitment to helping animals however, isnt.Helen Whitelegg, Redwings Campaigns and Policy Manager, said it had been incredible to work with Paul and his team on this film, and Redwings were so grateful to everyone who had donated their time.Our message is clear, she said. Low noise fireworks can offer the celebration and community people value, but without causing such a negative impact on animals and people.Horses and other animals die every year as a result of loud fireworks, and many people suffer.This is a vital moment on the road to regulatory change, and we need everyone to take this opportunity to share their views and experiences.Lets ensure horses, other animals and vulnerable people are better protected from fireworks by asking for a 90-decibel noise limit in this important consultation. People can also ask for restrictions on types of fireworks that are available to the public and outline the benefits they believe new regulations could bring.Lead image: Shutterstock/Alexander Prokopenko Related contentHorses and fireworks: advice to help equines cope on Bonfire NightHow to tell if a horse is happyLearn to read your horses body language with this adviceWould you know what to do in an emergency? Experts share how to keep your horse safe in a crisisThe post Shouldanimals and vulnerable people sufferforthe enjoyment of others? Fireworks film calls for change appeared first on Your Horse.

A horses coat grows rapidly when the seasons change and youll soon be reaching for the clippers to keep your steed trimmed, looking smart and feeling comfortable. Common problem areas when clipping a horse include choosing the right type of clip, knowing how much hair to remove, tensioning clippers correctly, getting straight and even lines, and best practice for coat care both before and after clipping. If you are clipping a nervous horse who is scared of clippers, or being clipped for the first time, you will find this advice useful too.Getting the right tensionThe most common problem that people have with clipping is getting the right tension on their clippers.Incorrectly tensioned clippers leave lines in the coat and will cause the blades to overheat and become blunt much sooner, says Paula Bryan from Clipit Grooming.Different clipper brands will vary slightly, so its important to check the manufacturers instructions and tension accordingly.Once you know your clippers tensioning amount, place the blades on the clipper, put the tensioning screw with spring through, and oil them.With most clippers, you tighten the screw all the way until it wont tighten any more, and then loosen by one or two turns depending on the brand, explains Paula.There is usually a little mark on top of the tensioning screw to help you count the rotations.Next, turn on the clippers and listen. If it sounds like a sewing machine, I would start clipping, but if it sounds tight and squeaky, you need to loosen them.The rule of thumb is that less tension is better than too much.How much hair to removeAsk yourself what your horse is doing work-wise and whether they are living in or out. I always follow the rule that you should only take off what you need off.I wouldnt recommend a full clip for a horse who is going to be living out all year round, for example, says Paula.With a youngster, or horse in light work, Id suggest a trace or bib clip. Only horses in full work need to have full clips. The welfare of your horse should come first.What to wearThe norm over the years has been to wear a boiler suit or painting overalls which make you very hot and sweaty underneath.You want a set of overalls that are lightweight, breathable, protect you from head to toe and repel your horses coat hair, suggests Paula.A sturdy pair of footwear is ideal, and a cap or visor will prevent hair from blowing into your face.When to oil clipper bladesI use Easi-Oil [its 9.50 and available here] to oil my blades. WD40 is a big no-no because it dries the blade out, says Paula.You want the oil to stay on the blades to keep them lubricated. You cannot over-oil your blades, so every five to eight minutes I would give them a quick brush and then spray the oil on them.Always clean the blades after they have been used and oil them too. You should also oil them before putting them away.Keeping manes and tails out of the wayPaula says that the best thing to do with a tail is to bandage it. With manes, you can loosely plait them over one side of the neck or brush the mane over using a damp sponge, she adds.Its handy to have an assistant to help keep your horse still when youre doing areas like the mane, because they require precision.Preparing a horse for clippingIts essential that your horse is clean. I would advise bathing them the day before and keeping them in overnight with a rug on so that they are clean and dry, advises Paula.The clippers will glide through a clean coat much easier than a greasy coat and leave a better finish. If you cant bath your horse, a good brush to remove any loose mud and dirt is essential as grit can blunt blades.Ensure your horse is thoroughly dry before clipping as the blades wont run through a damp coat.Another tip is to take the horses rug off and let them stand without a rug on for an hour before you clip. This makes the hair stand a bit prouder and means the blades will run through the coat more easily.How to tell when blades need sharpeningIf you have tensioned the blades correctly, but they are not driving forwards and snag in the coat, thats when you know your blades are blunt.You should be able to get three to four full clips done using a fresh set of blades, but it all comes down to correct oiling and maintenance, confirms Paula.Stop clippers getting blocked with hairToo much tension in the blades and a dirty, greasy coat is a recipe for hair getting stuck in the clipper blades.Ensure your horse well-groomed (or washed) before, advises Paula, so that their coat is clean and get the tensioning right on your clippers.Maintaining your clippers is really important too, so brush the hair off and oil frequently during clipping, every five to eight minutes, she says.I use a product called Ice Care [its 10 and available here], which is a cooling spray that cools the blades down rapidly but also disinfects them.At the end of your session, take the blades apart, brush the hair out and spray them with a disinfectant.Clipping straight, even linesI was always taught that long, sweeping strokes with the clippers helps to create straight, even lines, and I still stick by that now, says Paula.I use white dressmakers chalk and string to draw the lines before I start clipping. Keep sizing it up and looking at the lines to check they are even.Standing in front of and behind your horse will show you how even you are on both sides.If you are leaving a saddle pad in, you simply clip around the shape of your numnah.To stop a horse getting boredGive your horse a haynet to munch while you clip or have someone stand by their head and offer treats or a bucket feed to eat.You could also have a short break to allow your clippers to cool down and, while they do, take your horse for a quick walk to stretch their legs.Sometimes horses can get fidgety if they are chilly, so make sure you keep a rug on the areas you arent clipping to prevent your horse getting cold.How to clip a horses headIts really helpful to have someone to help you when doing the head as they can keep your horse still.Dog clippers are great for doing horse heads because they are much quieter, meaning horses are more likely to accept them, says Paula. They are also smaller, so they get around the eye sockets and ears easier.For horses that arent keen on having their head done, offer them treats or a bucket feed to help keep their head still. You could also consider just doing half the head. This is where you remove hair from the cheeks and the bottom of their head, but the rest stays on. When doing a half-head, you want to be left with a straight line from the bottom of the horses ear to the top of their mouth.Clipper careAfter clipping, take the clippers apart and clean, disinfect and oil them before putting them away. Its also important to get your clippers serviced every year.Dont store clippers in a damp tack room because any hair stuck in the machine will absorb dampness and cause rust.Most clippers come with a filter for air flow (to keep them cool), which should be kept clean and clear of hair too.After three or four years, its worth replacing the tensioning set on your clippers as well as the blades. Blades will need sharpening after three or four full clips.Horse aftercare Go over your horse with a hot cloth that has a tiny bit of shampoo or baby oil added this will help to loosen any final hair and grease, advises Paula.Its important, however, to make sure any clipped areas of the body arent rubbed too much.Some people leave patches of full-length hair on to help prevent rubbing, such as where the riders leg sits against their horses sides and under the saddlecloth or numnah.Main image Your Horse Library/Kelsey Media LtdRelated contentDifferent types of clips for horses explained, including diagramsKatie Jerram-Hunnable explains how to trim a horses legsExpert advice for a mud- and dust-free coat that shinesAdd a horse grooming vacuum to your kitThe post How to clip a horse: blade tension, straight lines, oiling intervals, and other expert tips appeared first on Your Horse.

Clipping a horse is a job that most people consider essential in winter, but for a a horse who is scared of clippers or nervous about being clipped, it becomes a tricky process.The first rule for these horses is to use the quietest clippers you can find. Then its about time and patience to help them learn that there is nothing to be scared of. A positive experience every time will help to make clipping easier in the future.First of all, make sure your horse is in an area where he feels settled before you turn the clippers on, says experienced groom Daniel Tarpey. Its a good idea to have a haynet there to keep him happy, and, if you can, have someone else with you to help, just in case you have any problems accidents can happen.Clipping processDaniel suggests clipping a nervous horse using the following process:Start by running the clippers all over the horses body before turning them on. This gets the horse used to how they feel.Once the horse seems happy, and shows signs of relaxing, move away and turn the clippers on. Leave them on to give the horse time to get used to the noise.Turns the clippers off for a few seconds, and then on again, several times.When the horse has settled, start clipping easy areas that arent sensitive and are easy for you to step away from if the horse reacts (like their shoulders). Gauge your horses behaviour and only move on to other areas if they are calm enough for you to do so.You may not achieve this in one session. Do a little day by day to help your horse learn.When you are working with a horse scared of clippers, remember to take it slowly and have lots of breaks. This is also good practice because it helps to prevent the clippers over-heating and becoming too warm against the horses skin. Be sure sure to give your horse lots of praise and reassurance throughout.Clipping a horse for the first timePositive startWhen youre clipping a horse for the first time it might be the first time in their life or the first time since you have owned or loaned them it is important to make a positive start. Go up to your horse first to say hello without any equipment. Give them a treat and let the horse smell you, advises clipping expert Lisa Edmed. When clipping, people often wear suits that can be scary to a young horse.Once the horse is happy, start with trimmers turn them on and off and, as long as they dont show signs of being nervous, stroke the horse with the clippers.Now, if the horse is happy, start taking the hair off. Always have a helper standing at the horses head giving them attention and reassurance, possibly treats too if necessary, to keep the experience positive. This is vital when working with a horse who is scared of clippers.Dont tie the horse upPersonally, I dont like horses being tied up to be clipped, especially first timers, says Lisa. I like them to be able to walk away (within reason) if they need to and not feel trapped. Thisgives them confidence that they can move away when somethings worrying them. Being held in a secure area outside is much safer than being tied up in a stable.This is where having a helper is really useful. Avoid trying to hold the horse still yourself and clip at the same time. By having a person holding the horse rather than tying them up, if they do try to run backwards they wont pull the lead-rein tight and panic more, potentially hurting themselves (or you).Read the horses body languageConstantly look out for signs that the horse isnt happy, such as fidgeting and pulling away. If you think they are becoming anxious, give them a short break before trying again. Only go as quickly as the horse is comfortable with, advises Lisa. It might take several sessions of just introducing the horse to the sound of the clippers over several days, for example, before you can touch their body. Patience pays off in the long run.Buildup to bigger clippersOnce your horse is happy with small trimmers, which tend to be quieter, you can then build up to using bigger clippers which are noisier and vibrate more.I use a cordless pair of bigger trimmers on young horses initially they are safer than wired clippers. You can then work up to using the bigger clippers, says Paula.Dont take off too much hairThere are numerous types of clip to choose from, but you should only do a low, minimal clip the first time, such as a bib and belly clip or a small Irish clip. You dont want your horse having to stand still for too long.I always keep hair on a first-timers back for the first few clips, as they can be sharp to ride after being clipped. Not having any hair in this area can make the problem worse, says Lisa.Ensure its a good experienceKeep the whole clipping experience as positive and calm as possible. If youre nervous, get an experienced person to clip your horse the first time. Even if you feel confident enough to do it yourself, always enlist a helper. Listening to music and/or chatting to your helper is also a good idea. It can have a calming effect and gives your horse something to listen to that isnt the noise of the clippers.The post Useful advice for clipping a horse who is scared of clippers appeared first on Your Horse.

Honeychop Horse Feeds is celebrating 40 years of producing fibre feeds for horses and ponies. From its beginnings on a Suffolk family farm in 1986, Honeychop has developed a range that now covers traditional chaffs, calorie-controlled choices, conditioning feeds and specialist options for older or more sensitive horses.The anniversary is a useful opportunity to look beyond the familiar bags and see what has remained consistent across the Honeychop range: British farming, clearly identified oat straw and feeds designed for different nutritional needs.A Suffolk family business since 1986Robert and Valerie Honeywood founded Honeychop as a diversification project on their family farm. Their son Stephen took over in 1995 and now works alongside his own son, Oliver, continuing the family connection into a third generation.Honeychop feeds are still manufactured on the same Suffolk farm. Keeping production on site gives the company oversight of the ingredients entering each bag and allows the oat straw to be traced back to the field where it was grown.Why Honeychop uses oat strawHoneychop has continued to specify oat straw rather than using the broader term cereal straw. This gives owners greater clarity about what they are feeding and helps the company maintain a consistent formulation from one bag to the next.The straw is grown either on the Honeychop farm or by selected British growers. Honeychop allows the crop to dry naturally in the sun and uses oat straw throughout its fibre-feed range.How the Honeychop range has developedHoneychop Original established the brand, but the range has expanded as owners have looked for more specific fibre feeds. Current options include:Honeychop Original, a traditional high-fibre oat-straw chaff with limestone flour and salt.Honeychop Chopped Oat Straw, a straight, dust-extracted fibre feed with nothing added for horses, ponies and donkeys needing a very simple ration.Honeychop Lite & Healthy, a low-calorie, low-sugar fibre feed for good doers and animals needing a lighter option.Honeychop Topline & Shine, a high-oil, low-starch chaff designed to support condition and topline without relying on high-starch energy.Honeychop Super Senior, a soft fibre blend developed for older horses and ponies, with glucosamine and ingredients chosen to support joint and digestive health.Honeychop Calm & Shine, a low-sugar, low-starch oat-straw and dried-grass chaff with herbs and oil for horses that can be excitable or need help maintaining coat shine and condition.The Honeychop Free From range includes Chopped Oat Straw, Lite & Healthy, Topline & Shine and Super Senior. These products are formulated without molasses and provide different calorie levels for horses and ponies with more particular dietary requirements.Farming with wildlife in mindConservation has long been part of the way the Honeywood family manages its land. Honeychop reports that more than 15% of the farm is intentionally left uncropped to provide habitats for birds, pollinators and mammals.Its 40th-anniversary activity includes plans to help establish 40 acres of wildflowers, alongside bird and bug boxes made by Honeychop founder Robert Honeywood. These projects continue the connection between the feeds, the farm and the countryside in which their ingredients are grown.Choosing the right Honeychop feedThe best choice depends on your horse or ponys condition, workload, age and dietary needs. A good doer will require a different fibre feed from a horse needing condition, while an older horse may benefit from a softer blend.Our guide to choosing a horse chaff or fibre feed compares the main options, or you can browse our full range of horse chaffs and fibre feeds.Always introduce dietary changes gradually and follow the feeding information for the individual product. If your horse has a medical condition or complex nutritional requirements, seek advice from your vet or a qualified equine nutritionist.

An owner has thanked her vet for the care given to her thoroughbred gelding after he suffered a freak accident in his field.Twenty-year-old Baz was found with what appeared to be a fairly minor wound on his hindquarters, but when he was examined by vet Keesjan Cornelisse of Penbode Equine Vets, a large metal hook was found embedded deep under his skin.Keesjan said the chunky, 10cm-long hook is one of the most unusual foreign bodies hes removed from a horse in his 32-year career.He had visited Baz in his field near Gunnislake after being sent a photo of a horizontal laceration. While it seemed relatively small at first glance, he was suspicious that it could be deeper than it looked and warranted a veterinary check.On examining the wound, Keesjan could feel something hard under Bazs skin and probing a little deeper he discovered the chunk of metal.After sedating Baz and giving pain relief, Keesjan carefully removed the hook by making the entry wound slightly larger and with the help of a pair of forceps. He then thoroughly cleaned the wound to reduce the risk of infection and closed it with sutures.We are often sent images of wounds by horse owners, and a vet visit is usually recommended if the wound is large, bleeding profusely, very dirty, contains a foreign body or is near a joint or tendon sheath, said Keesjan. Bazs laceration didnt seem that serious at first glance, but there were a few things worrying me about it, and I recommended it was best if I came out to look at it.Even though I had my suspicions, I couldnt have imagined what was hiding inside the wound, and to say I was completely surprised to find the hook is an understatement. It goes to show how important it is that wounds are carefully checked, even seemingly minor ones.Its not known how Baz injured himself on the hook, which was one of four attached to his wooden field shelter, but its thought he may have rubbed against it or was spooked or chased by his field companions and backed into it at speed.What doesnt make sense is that the hook is blunt-ended and coated with rubber, and it would have needed a lot of force to push it through the skin and deep into the muscle tissue, added Keesjan. Also, the position of the hook on the shelter wall was lower than the height of the wound entrance, so Baz would have had to push down onto it.I guess well never know what happened, but I am very pleased that the wound has healed nicely, and five weeks after his accident Baz was able to be lightly ridden again, and is happy and sound.Star of Stories from a Cornish StableBaz is owned by Mary Framptom-Price, 78, who enjoys hacking the ex-racehorse out. Bazs journey from racehorse to happy hacker is chronicled in a series of childrens books, and Mary and writer Jane Thomas have produced Stories from a Cornish Stable with Baz featured as the lead character in three books.Since Bazs accident, Mary has removed all of the hooks from the field shelter. She thanked Keesjan for preventing Baz from suffering further discomfort and, potentially, an infected wound if the hook had gone undiscovered for longer.The wound looked fairly minor and never in a million years could we have guessed that there was a hook inside Bazs quarters, said Mary. The hooks have been here for years, and Ive never noticed Baz going near them before, so what happened is a complete mystery.Im so grateful to Keesjan for being so thorough and attentive and for recommending that the wound needed checking, or the hook could have remained there for a lot longer and caused all sorts of complications. He has been my vet for many years, and I know that I can trust him and hell always do the right thing for Baz and the ponies. Baz and I have a lot to thank him for.Related contentFirst Aid Week: What to do if your horse is bleeding and the signs it is an emergencyWound care: what to do if your horse is injured and when to call the vetUseful health products for your horses first aid kit7 common winter vet call outs and how to avoid themThe post I couldnt have imagined what was hiding inside the wound: Vet treats thoroughbred after freak accident appeared first on Your Horse.

After the success of our graduate seran de bunn last year gaining top price at the supreme sale of showjumpers before going on to win Dublin 4yos it was interesting to watch out graduates in this years sale doing well for their owners .All sold by us earlier this year ..#bshgraduates