The final horse inspection at MARS Badminton Horse Trials 2026 has taken place. There had been two overnight withdrawals, Kylie Roddys SRS Kan Do (40th) and Will Rawlins Ballycoog Breaker Boy (7th).The hold box vet was kept on his toes as Grantstown Jackson (Sarah Ennis, 19th) and Chiko (Alex Hua Tian, 34th) were not accepted by the ground jury after re-presenting. Cancaras Girl gave Tiana Coudray a worried few minutes when sent to the hold, but she was subsequently accepted to continue her competition. Finally, Dreamliner (Tom Rowland, 18th) was withdrawn from the hold.Forty combinations will go forward to todays showjumping phase, with the morning session starting at 11.30am, and the top 25 jumping this afternoon.

12 min read Last updated: January 2026 Got a public footpath running through your grazing and worried about safety, complaints, or liability? This friendly guide shows you exactly how to keep the route open, your horses secure, and yourself protectedcovering lawful fencing and signage plus the smart insurance baseline: BHS Gold public liability up to 30 million. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Know Access Rules What To Do: Keep public footpaths open and unobstructed; do not ride or lead horses along footpaths without permission. Use bridleways and byways for riding. Why It Matters: Prevents trespass, enforcement action and conflict with the public. Common Mistake: Locking or blocking gates, or informally diverting the route. Area: Confirm Legal Line What To Do: Contact your Rights of Way Officer to verify the exact line and recorded width; get it confirmed in writing. Agree any corridor, gates and furniture before you fence. Why It Matters: Avoids disputes, rework and potential enforcement. Common Mistake: Erecting fences then discovering they encroach on the legal path. Area: Waymark and Sign What To Do: Mark the route clearly in both directions and install polite, Countryside Codealigned notices at entries. Keep vegetation trimmed and refresh faded signs. Why It Matters: Keeps walkers on the correct line and reduces accidental trespass. Common Mistake: Using hostile wording or unsafe, sharpedged signage. Area: Safe Electric Fencing What To Do: Use proper insulators, earth correctly, and place yellow warning signs every 2030 metres and at all entrances. Keep live wires well clear of gates and public touch points. Why It Matters: Meets legal requirements and prevents shocks and injury. Common Mistake: Running live tape over gateways or within reach of the public. Area: Gates and Access What To Do: Fit selfclosing, easytouse gates that are stockproof and swing freely; keep barbed wire and electrics at least 2 metres from openings. Maintain hinges and latches yearround. Why It Matters: Allows safe public passage while securely containing horses. Common Mistake: Installing tricky catches or leaving gates that stick or drag. Area: Choose Suitable Horses What To Do: Do not graze stallions or horses known to be aggressive in footpath fields; pair calm, peoplesavvy companions and move problem horses elsewhere. Train good manners at boundaries. Why It Matters: Reduces risk to walkers and avoids prosecution. Common Mistake: Ignoring repeated territorial behaviour towards dogs and walkers. Area: Plan for Footfall What To Do: Anticipate busy periods and shift water, hay and highvalue resources away from the path; manage dog interactions with clear requests for leads. Inspect fencing after storms, heat or heavy use. Why It Matters: Lowers congregation and spook risks along the route. Common Mistake: Leaving attractions or narrow pinch points right beside the path. Area: Insurance and Planning What To Do: Maintain public liability cover of at least 30m and review annually; seek planning advice before adding stables, arenas or intensifying use. Keep records of policies and consents. Why It Matters: Protects you from major claims and planning enforcement. Common Mistake: Assuming enter at your own risk signs or grazing status remove liability or planning duties. In This Guide What the law allows on footpaths, bridleways and byways Your legal duties when a footpath crosses your horse field Define the route: check the legal line and width before you fence Fencing, gates and signs that keep horses in and the public safe Field management: choose the right horses and plan for busy times Insurance and planning rules you shouldnt ignore Stepbystep checklist before you turn out England, Wales and Scotland: who to ask and where to look When a public footpath crosses your grazing, youre balancing two nonnegotiables: the publics legal right to pass and your duty to keep people and horses safe. Get the setup right and the footpath will quietly coexist with your herd yearround.Key takeaway: If a public footpath runs through your field, you must keep the route open and safe, select suitable horses for that field, fence and sign the path lawfully, and hold robust public liability cover (the BHS Gold policy provides up to 30 million).What the law allows on footpaths, bridleways and bywaysIn England and Wales, horse riders may use bridleways and byways, but not public footpaths; pedestrians have the right to pass and repass on foot along a footpath through your land, and you must not obstruct it. The UK Highway Code makes clear that horses must not be taken onto footpaths or pavements, and riding on a footpath without permission is trespass.The public rights of way network in England spans 188,700km: 146,600km footpaths, 32,400km bridleways, 3,700km byways and 6,000km restricted byways. Riders can legally use just 22% (bridleways and byways), which is why footpaths across grazing are common and must be managed correctly. See the British Horse Societys access work for the national picture and ongoing advocacy (BHS), and the Highway Codes rules about animals and horse riders (Highway Code). For a quick refresher on the distinctions: Footpaths: pedestrians only (no horses). Bridleways: pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders. Byways (BOATs/RBs): all users including vehicles, plus horses and pedestrians.Once a footpath is legally recorded, you cannot gate or block it except with gates approved and operable by the public. Local authorities can and do enforce obstructions. For more background, see Horse & Hounds guide to horses in fields with public footpaths (Horse & Hound).Your legal duties when a footpath crosses your horse fieldYou owe a duty of care to people using the footpath and must not keep a horse known to be dangerous in a field crossed by a right of way; failure can lead to prosecution. Gates must both contain your horses and be easy for the public to operate, and the route should be clear, safe and unobstructed.This duty of care is practical as well as legal: choose appropriate horses, maintain boundaries, and communicate clearly with waymarking. The British Horse Society advises landowners to use polite Countryside Codealigned signage to guide the public on gate use and behaviour. Owners have the important responsibility not to keep a horse known to be potentially dangerous in a field crossed by a right of way. This could result in a prosecution and is a serious responsibility.If the worst happens, liability can be substantial. The BHS Gold membership includes up to 30 million public liability insurance, which is the level of cover we recommend for any land with public access (details via Horse & Hound/BHS).Quick tip: When youre moving horses between fields on lanes or minor roads, you count as a vulnerable road user. The 2022 Highway Code updates require drivers to pass horses at under 10mph with at least 2 metres clearance (Blue Cross). For visibility and selfprotection, kit up with hivis for riders and a properly fitted riding helmet even when leading from the ground.Define the route: check the legal line and width before you fenceBefore installing or altering any fencing or gates, contact your local Rights of Way Officer to confirm the precise legal alignment and recorded width of the footpath. The paths width may not be documented on the councils legal record, so agree this upfront to avoid disputes or costly rework.Ask the officer to help you fix the route on the ground with waymarks so the public can see exactly where to go and you can plan fencing accordingly. This avoids desire lines drifting into your grazing and reduces accidental trespass. Administration guidance and BHS advice both emphasise that clearly signposted routes are in everyones best interests. Define the route on the land if necessary to avoid confusion over where the public can pass It is best for all concerned if the landowner clearly signposts rights of way.If your plan involves narrowing, realigning, or creating a fenced corridor, confirm the lawful width for your path and any furniture (gates, stiles) in writing with the Rights of Way Officer. They can advise on acceptable barriers and specifications that let people pass while keeping livestock secure.Fencing, gates and signs that keep horses in and the public safeElectric fencing next to a right of way must be insulated and clearly signposted at regular intervals, and gates must contain horses while opening freely for the public without keys or specialist knowledge. Signs should be polite, weatherproof and BHScompliant with rounded edges and safe positioning.Practical standards to adopt immediately: Electric fencing: Use proper insulators and earth correctly; put yellow warning signs every 2030 metres along any stretch beside a path and at all entrances. Keep live wires well clear of gate furniture and public touch points. This is a legal requirement where electric fencing abuts a public right of way (see Horse & Hound). Gates: They must be stockproof yet easily operable by hand. Selfclosing, selflatching mechanisms that the public can understand at a glance work well. Ensure no barbed wire or live electric lines are within at least 2 metres of gate openings, and maintain hinges and latches so gates swing freely in all seasons. Signage and waymarking: Place clear, polite notices at each entry/exit reminding walkers to leave gates as they find them and to keep dogs under close control. BHS recommends rounded edges and no sharp points at head height, with signs high enough for mounted riders to pass under on multiuse routes. Replace any faded or cracked boards annually.Pro tip: Many complaints stem from confusion. Mark the route with simple arrows or discs, trim vegetation to keep the line obvious, and use Please keep to the path rather than confrontational wording. Align your messages with the Countryside Code (GOV.UK).At Just Horse Riders, our yard teams also check nearby kit for snag risks: turnout chest buckles, leg straps and tail cords should be tidy and secure. If your horses live out near public gates and rails, consider robust, wellfitted winter turnout rugs and summer layers you trust; the right cut reduces the chance of catches on fixtures. Routine condition checks with good grooming tools help you spot rubs or wire nicks early.Field management: choose the right horses and plan for busy timesDo not graze stallions in fields crossed by public rights of way, and prioritise calm, peoplesavvy horses for these paddocks; adjust turnout and grazing plans at peak publicuse times such as sunny weekends and bank holidays. This lowers risk for everyone using the land.The BHS is explicit on stallions and rights of way, particularly where unfamiliar horses can access boundaries: We strongly recommend against keeping stallions in a field through which rights of way pass, especially if unfamiliar horses access your land.Practical ways to stack the odds in your favour: Pairings: Use steady companions and avoid bully dynamics near the path line. If a horse shows repeated territorial or herding behaviour towards walkers or dogs, move it to a different paddock. Seasonal planning: Expect more walkers during spring bluebell season, summer holidays, harvesttime stubble walks and crisp autumn weekends. Consider shifting water, hay points and highvalue resources away from the path to reduce congregation at the fence. Dog interactions: Clear signage requesting dogs on leads near livestock can reduce chases and spooks; many owners appreciate guidance tied to the Countryside Code. Training: Reinforce good field manners at gateways and along fences. Keep a pocket of your own horse treats to reward calm recall away from the pathnever encourage the public to feed your horses. Horse protection: If your path runs beside uneven or stony ground, protective boots can help horses who brush or overreach during exuberant moments; look at sturdy horse boots and bandages for regular turnout use.In flyheavy summers, calm horses stay calmer when comfortable; choose suitable fly layers and maintain shade and water. Our customers often pair breathable sheets with routine fly care, then switch to weatherproof rugs as Atlantic fronts move in; explore quality options from brands such as Shires as the seasons turn.Insurance and planning rules you shouldnt ignoreHold specialist public liability insuranceBHS Gold membership includes up to 30 million coverand seek planning advice if you add stables, exercise facilities or otherwise change land use beyond grazing. Both steps protect you from major legal and financial shocks.Why the big number? Injuries to members of the public can generate substantial claims. The BHS Gold level is widely cited and offers a realistic floor for land with public access. If you run lessons, livery, events or more complex operations, speak to an equestrian broker about tailored additions.On planning, grazing horses on agricultural land typically does not need permission, but permanent stables, arenas or intensive activities may represent a material change of use under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990. Before you invest in infrastructure, take early advice from an agricultural solicitor to avoid enforcement headaches (Crombie Wilkinson).Remember: a sign that says Enter at your own risk does not remove your duty of care. Good management, clear routes, appropriate fencing and robust insurance are the real safeguards.Stepbystep checklist before you turn outFollow this 10step checklist to make a footpath through your horse field safe, legal and hasslefree. Confirm the line: Contact your local Rights of Way Officer to verify the exact legal alignment and width of the footpath; get written confirmation. Map it on the ground: Waymark the route visibly from both directions; prune vegetation and remove trip hazards. Fence sensibly: Where needed, create a clear corridor with stockproof fencing that does not encroach on the legally agreed width. Electrify safely: If using electric fencing adjacent to the path, fully insulate and add yellow warning signs every 2030m and at all entries. Fit the right gates: Install selfclosing, easytouse gates that contain horses; keep barbed wire and live wires at least 2m away from openings. Sign politely: Add Countryside Codealigned notices at entry/exit points: Please keep to the path, Please keep dogs on a lead near livestock, and Please leave gates as you find them. Choose the right herd: Do not keep stallions; select calm, peoplesavvy horses for this field and move any known aggressors elsewhere. Arrange insurance: Maintain public liability cover of at least 30m (e.g., via BHS Gold) and review annually. Plan for seasons: Adjust grazing and resource locations during high footfall periods; check fencing after storms and heatwaves. Prepare yourself: When handling horses near roads or busy paths, wear visible kit and protective gearquality hivis, a secure helmet, and supportive yard or horse riding boots reduce your risk.England, Wales and Scotland: who to ask and where to lookEngland and Wales follow the rights of way system and Countryside Code, while Scotland follows the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (SOAC), which allows broader responsible access. Always follow the guidance for your nation and consult your councils Rights of Way team when in doubt.Useful contacts and references: Rights of way and open access (England/Wales): GOV.UK guide Scottish Outdoor Access Codeequestrian detail: SOAC equestrian guidance BHS access and routes: BHS Access Work Highway Code rules for horse riders and animals: Highway CodeIf you move horses on roads to reach the field, remember the 2022 Highway Code changes: drivers must slow to under 10mph and give at least 2m clearance. Enhance your visibility with practical layers and reflective details; riders often combine weatherproof outers with hivis accessoriesbrowse seasonready options, from turnout rugs to riderfocused highvisibility gear, to stay comfortable and seen.FAQsCan I legally prevent people from using a footpath that crosses my field?No. A recorded public footpath gives the public the right to pass and repass on foot, and you must not obstruct it. Blocking, locking or diverting without due legal process can trigger local authority enforcement (Horse & Hound).What happens if a member of the public is injured by my horse while using the footpath?You have a duty of care. If you keep a horse known to be dangerous in a field with a right of way and injury occurs, you could face prosecution and civil claims. Carry robust public liability insurance; BHS Gold includes up to 30 million cover (Horse & Hound/BHS).Are there specific fencing standards I must meet around a public footpath?Yes. Electric fencing alongside a right of way must be fully insulated and clearly signed at regular intervals; keep barbed or live wires away from gates. Path width and furniture standards vary by councilagree details with your Rights of Way Officer and consult BHS specifications for safe equestrian routes (BHS standards).Do I need planning permission to graze horses in a field with a public right of way?Grazing horses alone on agricultural land typically does not require permission. However, adding stables, exercise facilities or more intensive equestrian use may be a material change of use and need planning consentseek early advice (Crombie Wilkinson).What is the difference between a footpath, a bridleway and a byway?Footpaths are for pedestrians only. Bridleways allow horse riders and cyclists as well as walkers. Byways open to all traffic (BOATs) and restricted byways allow wider use; riders are permitted. Horses are not allowed on footpaths without the landowners permission (Harrowells Solicitors; Highway Code).Should I keep stallions in a field with a public footpath?No. The BHS strongly advises against keeping stallions in fields crossed by public rights of way due to safety and welfare concerns (Horse & Hound/BHS).What kit helps me manage footpaths safely day to day?For you: highvisibility layers and a protective helmet when handling horses near roads or busy pathssee rider hivis and helmets. For horses: durable turnout rugs in winter, plus regular checks with grooming essentials to spot any fencerelated marks early.Manage the route clearly, choose the right horses for the field, and keep your insurance watertight. If youd like product helpwhether thats comfort rugs for 24/7 turnout or safer yard footwearour team at Just Horse Riders is here to help you and your horses thrive alongside the public right of way. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. 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Ros Canter is on the brink of making eventing history as the first rider to win MARS Badminton Horse Trials three times on the same horse.She and the magnificent Lordships Graffalo put up a supremely impressive cross-country performance, adding no penalties to their leading dressage score of 23.7. This gives them one show jumping fence in hand for victory tomorrow.My cross-country round wouldnt have looked so perfect if I hadnt been on Walter, Ros admitted, a reference to only returning to the saddle during February after giving birth to her second daughter, Seneh, in January. She was quick to pay tribute to her team at home, and to her amazing mother, Heather.I feel incredibly grateful to have a horse like Walter when I am not at my fittest. He is always light in his gallop and that allows me to be one of the fastest in the world.The challenge this week has been more mental, and a matter of working out timings around feeding the baby and having time to myself, as I usually do at a major competition.The crowds were amazing and I could hear them shouting Go Walter! What a lucky person I am to have a horse like that.Ros heads a British one-two-three. World number one Harry Meade rose nine places to the runner-up spot on the second of his three rides, Annaghmor Valoner, and Sarah Bullimore leapt 16 places to third on her home-bred 10-year-old, Corimiro.In addition, Britains Katie Magee, last years best first-timer, is lying fourth on Treworra; Irelands Lucy Latta is fifth on RCA Patron Saint; and New Zealander Tim Price, the world number two, is sixth on Falco, despite battling with a injury to his clavicle.Switzerlands Nadja Minder, riding the 19-year-old Toblerone, was the only first-timer to get around and she is now in 14th place.After a thrilling and successful days sport, there were 45 completions from the 59 cross-country starters, with 34 clear rounds and seven inside the optimum time of 11 minutes 30 seconds.Harry Meade, who has now clocked up 17 cross-country rounds at Badminton, is also lying 22nd on his cross-country pathfinder Et Hop Du Matz, but he tipped off his third ride, Cavalier Crystal, when she trod on herself at fence 22, having been up on the clock.Ive had quite a busy day, he admitted. Annaghmor Valoner is a lovely mare. She has historically lacked self-belief and, because of that, I have always had a soft spot for her.Harry paid tribute to Sarah Bullimores achievement in producing a home-bred horse to Badminton level. Corimiro is a phenomenal horse, she said. He is the horse I get up for in the morning and the reason I am still competing. Every phase is a pleasure. He just wants to do the job.The final horse inspection takes place at 8.30am tomorrow, with the lower placed horses jumping at 11.45am and the top 20 at 2.45pm for what promises to be a thrilling finale.Ros Canter explained she and her family were planning to enjoy their evening. What will be will be tomorrow, she said. You have to remember that I am only human and Walter is only a horse.Follow the competition on Badminton TV and Radio Badminton. The cross-country highlights and top 10 riders show jumping will be shown on BBC 2 at 1.45pm tomorrow.

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Struggling to choose between haylage and hay to keep your horse settled, healthy and sane this winter? This guide shows exactly how to feed, store and switchcovering DM differences (5065% vs 8590%), why youll need about 15 kg haylage to match 10 kg hay, and the 27 day window for opened bales. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Feed by Dry Matter What To Do: Weigh forage and match dry matter; if replacing 10 kg hay at 90% DM, feed about 15 kg haylage at ~60% DM. Weigh typical nets rather than counting slices. Why It Matters: Ensures your horse receives the same amount of dry fibre and avoids underfeeding. Common Mistake: Swapping hay for haylage kiloforkilo and leaving the horse short of fibre. Area: Gradual Transition What To Do: Switch over 710 days: 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 hay:haylage, then 100% if settled. Keep forage breaks under 4 hours. Why It Matters: Reduces gut upset and helps hindgut microbes adapt. Common Mistake: Changing forage overnight or allowing long gaps between nets. Area: Gut Monitoring What To Do: Track droppings and free faecal water for two weeks; if signs appear, switch to latercut haylage or blend with hay and consider a yeast/pre and probiotic. Why It Matters: Haylage can lower fibre digestibility and trigger free faecal water in some horses. Common Mistake: Ignoring watery staining or loose droppings and persisting with rich haylage. Area: Behaviour & Energy What To Do: If your horse gets sharp, choose latercut haylage, reduce concentrates, or blend with hay; increase turnout/workload as appropriate. Why It Matters: Haylage often provides more digestible energy and protein, increasing fizz. Common Mistake: Blaming tack or training before adjusting forage energy. Area: Storage & Hygiene What To Do: Use opened bales within 27 days; check daily for punctures, heat, off odours, discolouration or mould; store off the floor, dry and covered; discard suspect forage. Why It Matters: Oxygen exposure drives aerobic spoilage and mycotoxin risk. Common Mistake: Trying to salvage mostly fine bales or stretching them beyond a week. Area: Cut Selection What To Do: Pick earlycut for poor doers, higher work or dustsensitive horses; pick latercut for gooddoers or winter stabling to raise fibre and lower energy. Why It Matters: Cut stage shifts energy, fibre, acidity and palatability. Common Mistake: Feeding a rich early cut to a native or gooddoer in light work. Area: Steaming & Dust What To Do: Steam haylage at high temperature to cut respirable dust, bacteria and mould, and to keep it palatable after opening. Why It Matters: Supports respiratory health and can extend safe feeding time postopening. Common Mistake: Assuming wrapped haylage is dustfree and skipping hygiene. Area: Test & Track What To Do: Test forage (DM, WSC/NSC, protein) when possible; keep a 10day diary of net weights, turnout, droppings score and behaviour to spot patterns. Why It Matters: Dataled tweaks match forage to your horse and avoid guesswork. Common Mistake: Changing bales or suppliers without testing or recording the response. In This Guide What is haylage and how does it differ from hay? How much haylage should you feed compared to hay? Is haylage better for gut health and ulcer risk? Can haylage make horses sharp, spooky or aggressive? How to switch to haylage safely Storing and steaming haylage in the UK Which haylage cut to choose and when? Deciding between haylage and hay can transform your horses condition, behaviour and gut health especially through the UKs damp winters and short grazing days. The latest studies show clear pros and cons, so you can make a confident, horse-first choice.Key takeaway: Haylage is moister (5065% dry matter vs 8590% in hay), usually lower in sugars but higher in digestible energy and protein. Feed more by weight, use opened bales within 27 days, choose the right cut, and monitor for free fecal water or extra fizz.What is haylage and how does it differ from hay?Haylage is a fermented forage with 5065% dry matter (DM) versus 8590% in grass hay, so its moister, typically lower in sugars, and often higher in digestible energy and protein.UK-produced haylage is cut, wilted, and wrapped anaerobically to ferment, converting some water-soluble carbohydrates (sugars) into volatile fatty acids. This process lowers sugar and can increase digestibility, while retaining more nutrients than hay if the wrap stays perfectly sealed. Early-cut haylage is generally more nutrient-dense and more acidic; late-cut is stalkier, higher in fibre, and lower in energy. See the UK overview from Horse & Rider and the feeding notes from HorseHage.Because haylage relies on airtight wrapping, any puncture risks aerobic spoilage and mould. UK guidelines for wrapped silage (Defra) aim to prevent botulism risks by maintaining anaerobic storage so daily bale checks matter, especially in wet autumns and mild winters.How much haylage should you feed compared to hay?You must feed more haylage by weight than hay to deliver the same dry fibre because haylage contains much more water.Heres the simplest way to think about it. If your horse eats 10 kg of hay at 90% DM, thats roughly 9 kg of dry matter. To supply the same 9 kg DM using haylage at 60% DM, youd need about 15 kg of haylage. In practice, most owners notice theyre carting bigger, heavier nets when they switch to haylage. This added volume isnt a flaw its the moisture difference doing its job.Theres a bonus: horses take longer to finish haylage meals, boosting chewing time and saliva production. Research presented by Kentucky Equine Research found horses fed haylage took longer to eat than those on grass hay, which may help buffer stomach acid and lower ulcer risk; however, they also reported lower fibre digestibility in haylage-fed horses. Read more via The Horse and Horse & Rider.Quick tip: If you normally feed by slices or net count, weigh a few typical nets of hay and haylage so you arent underfeeding fibre when you switch.Is haylage better for gut health and ulcer risk?Haylage increases chewing time and saliva, which can help buffer acid and support ulcer management, but studies show lower fibre digestibility and a risk of free faecal water syndrome in some horses.At the Equine Science Society Symposium, nutritionist Ashley Fowler, PhD (Kentucky Equine Research), reported that haylage-fed horses chewed for longer but digested fibre less efficiently and showed increased faecal water and sodium (free faecal water syndrome). Their advice frames haylage as useful for time-at-forage and ulcer risk, with a clear caveat to watch the hindgut response:Haylage is often a good option for horses that need a restricted diet because it increases their time spent eating, which might help reduce their risk of ulcers and stereotypies... The fiber digestibility of haylage was lower than we expected, and the horses developed free fecal water syndrome.Longer term, forage choice appears to influence metabolism and the gut microbiota. In a 13month UK study, the University of Surrey found haylage-fed ponies had significantly different urinary metabolic profiles compared with hay-fed ponies for example, higher ethylglucoside, creatinine and pcresol sulphate suggesting meaningful shifts in hindgut fermentation pathways. Explore the peerreviewed findings here: University of Surrey.Practical takeaway: Haylage can be kind to the stomach but occasionally tricky for the hindgut. If you notice free faecal water (watery staining down the hind legs or tail), first adjust the cut (try later-cut, higher-fibre haylage, or blend with hay), and consider digestive support (yeast/pre- and probiotics).Can haylage make horses sharp, spooky or aggressive?Yes haylage typically delivers more digestible energy and protein than hay, which can translate to excess fizz in some horses, especially when stabled through short winter days.UK owner reports regularly link haylage to sharper behaviour, spookiness or even aggression, particularly in good-doers and natives on restricted work. The mechanism is simple: higher digestible energy equals more fuel. If your horse becomes too bright on haylage, switch to late-cut haylage (higher fibre, lower energy), reduce hard feed, or blend with hay to dilute total calories. Read owner experiences on Horse & Hound.Quick tip: If you change forage and see behaviour change within a week or two, adjust the forage before blaming the bit, saddle or training plan. For many horses, energy balance starts in the haynet.How to switch to haylage safelyTransition over 710 days by mixing haylage with hay, keep forage breaks to no more than 46 hours, and monitor droppings and behaviour closely for the first fortnight.Follow this simple plan for a smooth switch:Days 13: 75% hay, 25% haylage (by dry matter remember haylage is wetter; feed more by weight)Days 46: 50% hay, 50% haylageDays 710: 25% hay, 75% haylage, then move to 100% haylage if all is wellAs a rule of thumb, horses shouldnt go longer than 4 hours without forage to keep hindgut microbes happy; haylage helps by prolonging eating time. See owner discussion referencing UK welfare standards: Horse & Hound.Watch for free faecal water (damp tail, splashing on the hocks), loose droppings, or new spookiness. If any appear, slow the transition, switch to later-cut haylage, or keep a 50:50 blend. Many owners find a targeted digestive supplement steadies things when moving to fermented forages. At Just Horse Riders, we see excellent feedback for targeted yeast/prebiotic formulas in our digestive supplements collection, including options from trusted brands like NAF.Pro tip: Log a 10day diary covering net weights, turnout, droppings score, and any behaviour changes. Its the fastest way to spot a pattern and adjust calmly.Storing and steaming haylage in the UKUse opened haylage within 27 days (shorter in warm, humid or wet conditions), keep wraps puncture-free and bales dry, and consider hightemperature steaming to reduce dust/microbes and extend palatability.Once a bale is opened, oxygen gets in and the clock starts ticking. Earlycut haylage typically lasts 35 days; latecut can be shorter. In a UK winter with damp yards and big temperature swings, plan smaller purchases or share bales to stay inside the 27 day window. Guidance from Horse & Rider and Haygain emphasises quick usage to avoid aerobic spoilage and mould.Daily, inspect for punctures, warm spots, unusual odours (sour, musty, or sickly sweet), dark discolouration, or visible mould threads. Discard any suspect portions horses are extremely sensitive to mycotoxins and bacterial overgrowth. In the UKs damp climate, store opened bales off the floor, out of the rain, and in sealed containers or waterproof covers to reduce contamination.Steaming haylage at high temperature reduces respirable dust, bacteria and mould. It also helps maintain palatability and can buy you some extra safe feeding time after opening compared with leaving the forage raw. Many respiratory vets favour steaming for coughy, dustsensitive horses, especially through winter when ventilation is reduced.Quick tip: Keep a spare clean haynet for each horse so you can empty any unfinished haylage if a bale turns suspect midweek. It stops you trying to use it up and protects your horses gut.Which haylage cut to choose and when?Choose earlycut haylage in spring/summer for nutrient density and dustsensitive horses, and latecut in winter or for gooddoers to lower energy, raise fibre, and encourage longer chewing.UK weather patterns matter. In a good summer, early cuts are leafy and rich ideal for poor doers, those in higher work, or when you need extra palatability for fussy eaters. In muddy winters with less exercise, later cuts help manage calories, support gut fill, and keep horses settled at the net. Remember, latecut haylage tends to be more acidic than hay, but usually delivers lower sugar (thanks to fermentation) and higher structural fibre.The British Horse Society encourages testing forage for WSC/NSC where possible; UK labs such as Forageplus can profile your batch so you can match it to your horses needs. If your horse tends to gain weight or feel sharp on rich forage, a later cut plus more turnout and appropriate rugging will often steady energy. Explore reliable winter layers in our turnout rugs and yardfriendly options in stable rugs, with robust, wetweather choices from WeatherBeeta.Watching for free faecal water? Latecut haylage or a hay/haylage blend commonly improves it, alongside a gut supplement. Keep the hindquarters clean while you monitor changes a thorough brush and rinse routine from our grooming range makes spotting improvements much easier.Pro tip: If youre managing sugar for a laminitisprone horse, you can soak haylage for up to 812 hours to leach additional sugars; note the increased fibre may slow digestion further, so build changes in gradually and monitor weight.FAQsHow long does haylage stay in a horses digestive system compared to hay?Haylage typically moves more slowly due to higher moisture and lower fibre digestibility, with full gut transit around 23 days; hay often digests faster thanks to higher dry matter. Research presented by Kentucky Equine Research noted longer eating times and lower fibre digestibility on haylage; see The Horse.Why does haylage make my horse spooky or aggressive?Haylage usually contains more digestible energy and protein than hay, so some horses get excess fuel and feel sharper. Choose latercut haylage, reduce concentrates, or blend with hay. Owner experiences are summarised on Horse & Hound.How quickly must I use opened haylage in the UK?Use within 27 days, with 35 days typical for earlycut in cool weather; the window shortens in mild, wet or warm conditions. After that, mould and bacteria multiply rapidly once oxygen is present. See Horse & Rider and Haygain.Is haylage better for gut health than hay?It promotes longer chewing and saliva, which can support the stomach, but some horses show lower fibre digestibility and free faecal water on haylage. Steaming and gradual transitions help, and a gut supplement can stabilise the hindgut. Sources: The Horse, Haygain.Can haylage cause longterm metabolic changes?Yes a 13month UK study found distinct urinary metabolites in haylagefed ponies (e.g., higher ethylglucoside, creatinine and pcresol sulphate) compared with hay, indicating different hindgut fermentation patterns. Details: University of Surrey.Whats the maximum time without forage for UKstabled horses?No longer than about 4 hours to protect hindgut microbes and reduce ulcer risk. Haylages moisture can extend eating time between nets. Discussion and welfare references: Horse & Hound.What should I do if my haylage shows white mould or smells off?Discard it immediately. Do not try to shake off suspect areas mycotoxins and pathogens can harm your horse even if the forage looks mostly fine. Open smaller bales, store them dry, steam if needed, and keep to the 27 day window after opening.At Just Horse Riders, were here to help you finetune forage with practical, UKready solutions from gut support in our supplements range (including NAF) to seasonsmart turnout rugs, cosy stable rugs and durable options from WeatherBeeta. If youd like personalised pointers for your horse, get in touch and happy, healthy munching. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. 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Theres EHV-1 virus in every little droplet coming out of an infected horses nose. | Adobe stockThe outbreak of equine herpesvirus-1 (EHV-1) in late 2025, with cases traced back to a show in Waco, Texas, brought with it a host of confusion and misinformation.In this excerpt from The Horses Equine Innovators podcast episode EHV-1 Explained: What the Science Tells Us, Lutz Goehring, DVM, MS, PhD, Dipl. ACVIM, professor of equine infectious diseases at the University of Kentuckys Gluck Equine Research Center, in Lexington, describes the basics of EHV-1 and how it progresses to the neurologic form, equine herpesvirus myeloencephalopathy (EHM). You can listen to the full conversation on TheHorse.com/equine-innovators-ehv1 or wherever you get your podcasts.How Does EHV-1 Spread in a Horse Population?EHV-1 is a virus that uses the cells in the respiratory tract to replicate. Theres virus in every little droplet that comes out of the horses nose. Once a horse becomes infected, he becomes a multiplier. So, imagine that in every sneeze, in every snort, there is virus in those little droplets. This is how virus spreads from one host to the other, most efficiently through direct contact, such as two horses rubbing noses.Short-distance travel is also a potent option for this virus to cross from one host into the other. What we call fomites (objects, hands, body parts, etc.) can transfer virus after contact from one horse to the other, and you initiate a cascade when this is not halted. Several horses start replicating, and this is how an outbreak gets rolling.Why Do Outbreaks Occur?A lot of horses are carriers of EHV-1; we call them latent carriers. These horses, when transported, when going to shows, when seeing the vet, they have the capacity to reactivate that dormant virus in their tissues, and it returns to the respiratory tract. They might shed the virus in small amounts (without showing clinical signs), and we need to make sure these horses or new arrivals on a farm are not in immediate contact with others.We see these outbreaks regularly. Over the years for Canada and the United States, we have somewhere between 40 to 80 outbreaks that are reported on the Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) webpage every year. Theres also probably a set of unreported outbreaks that add up to that. We see these home barn outbreaks regularly. Outbreaks at shows or events are rare.Special Feature: Everything You Need to Know About EHV-1How Does EHV-1 Become EHM?Equine herpes myeloencephalopathy is a multifactorial disease with a strict requirement that you have infection of the respiratory tract, and you have migration of virus to the local lymph nodes, where it replicates. From that point on, the virus can spread throughout the bloodstream and goes into the viremic phase. This is the transportation phase of the virus in the bloodstream, which is how this virus reaches the small vessels in the spinal cord and central nervous system. It causes multiple mini-strokes up and down the spinal cord. The more there are, the more the clinical picture changes from mild to moderate ataxia (incoordination) to complete paralysis (inability to get up).A factor needed for infection is this viremic phase. There are viral strains among the family of EHV-1 that go into a higher proportion of viremia for longer days. So, there is more going into the spinal cord to cause disease. But there are also host factors that favor the development of this neurologic component. And we have a strong connection with breed, age, and female sex. Only viremic horses are at risk to develop EHM. While viremia development is controlled by the immune system, EHM is a condition that involves host risk factors and, potentially, an immune system caught by surprise, as we see EHM developing more frequently and more severely during the first half of an outbreak. Taller horses like Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds, and Warmbloods are most frequently affected, while Arabians and pony breeds are spared.TakeHome Message Equine herpesvirus1 is a common respiratory virus that spreads through nasal droplets and contact between horses. While many infections remain mild, a slim proportion can progress to the serious neurologic form, EHM. The EHM outbreaks are infrequent and most commonly occur at home barns/training barns during winter and spring months. The shift to EHM depends on both viral behavior and immune status. Individual risk factors (age, breed, sex, immune status) are important in EHM development. Understanding how the virus spreads and which horses are most vulnerable is key to reducing transmission and improving outcomes.This article is from the Spring 2026 issue ofThe Horse: Your Guide to Equine Health Care. We at The Horse work to provide you with the latest and most reliable news and information on equine health, care, management, and welfare through our magazine and TheHorse.com. Your subscription helps The Horse continue to offer this vital resource to horse owners of all breeds, disciplines, and experience levels. To access current issues included in your subscription, please sign in to theAppleorGoogleapps ORclick herefor the desktop version.

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Ready to step up from riding school lessons but unsure whether leasing or buying fits your budget? Youll get a clear, UKspecific answerlease for 12 years of lower risk and predictable access, buy for 3+ years of full controlplus a costs breakdown from 200/month DIY livery to 6,00020,000+ yearly ownership, so you choose with confidence. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Lease vs Buy Decision What To Do: Set your time horizon (12 years lease, 3+ years buy). Match control needs and cashflow to the option. Why It Matters: Aligns commitment, risk and total cost with your situation. Common Mistake: Choosing on emotion rather than timeline and budget. Area: 36Month Cost Model What To Do: Price lease and buy for 36 months; include livery, feed, hay, bedding, farrier, insurance, lessons, transport and shows. Add a 1015% contingency. Why It Matters: Shows when leasing surpasses purchase value and prevents cashflow shocks. Common Mistake: Comparing only upfront price and ignoring running and resale. Area: Written Lease Terms What To Do: Put yard, move permissions, vet/farrier choice, emergencies, insurance, costs, usage days and show rights in a signed contract. Why It Matters: Prevents disputes and caps your liability. Common Mistake: Relying on verbal agreements or vague clauses. Area: Budget Core Running Costs What To Do: Use a DIY baseline: livery ~200/m, feed ~60, hay ~60, bedding ~45, farrier ~65, insurance ~100. Halve for a half lease unless a flat fee is set. Why It Matters: Stops underbudgeting of unavoidable monthly spend. Common Mistake: Skipping farrier and insurance in the monthly cashflow. Area: Plan for UK Winter What To Do: Inspect drainage and turnout; budget extra forage and bedding; buy robust turnout and stable rugs; plan hoof care for mud. Why It Matters: Winter drives surprise costs and health issues. Common Mistake: Buying cheap rugs that fail midseason. Area: Insurance & Liability What To Do: Confirm public liability and medical cover; state whose policy applies, whats covered and for how long. Why It Matters: Protects you financially in accidents and emergencies. Common Mistake: Assuming the owners insurance covers you automatically. Area: Yard/Vet/Farrier Checks What To Do: Visit yards after heavy rain; verify BEVAaligned vet standards; confirm farrier is registered and agree a ~6week cycle. Why It Matters: Ensures consistent care and lowers injury and cost risk. Common Mistake: Choosing a yard based on summer conditions alone. Area: Access & Usage Rights What To Do: Define riding days (full 56, half shared), training plan, show permissions and who makes programme decisions. Why It Matters: Sets clear expectations for saddle time and progress. Common Mistake: Not fixing days and competition plans in writing. In This Guide Should you buy or lease a horse? The short answer What a lease really costs in the UK Ownership costs and responsibilities How lease control and risk really work A simple decision model: when to lease vs buy Budgeting checklist for UK riders Common UK pitfalls to avoid Thinking about stepping up from riding school lessons to your own horse? The two realistic routes in the UK are leasing or buying and the smartest choice comes down to commitment, control and cashflow. Wet winters, rising livery fees and insurance responsibilities all make the decision more nuanced than it first appears.Key takeaway: Lease if you want 12 years of lower risk and predictable access; buy if youre ready for 3+ years of commitment and the full 6,00020,000+ annual ownership cost and you want complete control and an asset at the end.Should you buy or lease a horse? The short answerLease if you need flexibility, lower upfront cost and limited long-term liability; buy if you want full control, long-term partnership and to build equity in a horse you can later sell. Leasing often suits riders testing discipline goals or time budgets, while buying fits those settled for 3+ years at one yard with a consistent training plan.Leases are typically 1-year commitments with the option to walk away at renewal without further obligation, which reduces risk if your situation changes (Canter Banter Racing). By contrast, ownership transfers all care and risk to you indefinitely including during illness, injury or time off.What a lease really costs in the UKA half lease commonly starts from 150 per month, while full or care leases often run 1,000+ per month depending on the horse and programme (Farm House Tack). As a rule of thumb, a full lease fee is roughly 30% of the horses selling price per year, and lease fees are typically 1/31/2 of a horses value far less cash than buying outright upfront (Farm House Tack; The Plaid Horse).Access and usage matter. A full lease usually gives 56 days per week to ride and the option to show under your trainer; a half lease means shared days and split decisions with the owner (Farm House Tack). In a half lease, you normally split all care expenses 50/50 with the owner (Moonlight Equestrian Center).To budget realistically in the UK, start with running costs. A typical DIY livery baseline is 200/month, plus around 60 feed, 60 hay, 45 bedding, 65 farrier (averaged over a 6-week shoeing cycle) and 100 insurance per month before lessons, transport or show fees (Horse & Hound). If youre half leasing, youd expect to contribute roughly half those figures unless theres a flat all-in fee agreed with the owner.Trainer commissions are another (often missed) cost difference: leasing typically involves one commission at the start, whereas buying and later selling can mean two commissions across the cycle (The Plaid Horse).Important long-term maths: yearly lease fees can add up beyond a horses value if you lease for several years, so if youre in it for the long haul, buying can be more economical overall (Saddle Box).Ownership costs and responsibilitiesOwning a horse typically costs 6,00020,000+ per year in the UK, and you carry all responsibility for care, risk and downtime throughout (Moonlight Equestrian Center).Budgeting the essentials on DIY livery gives a clear picture (Horse & Hound): Livery: ~200/month baseline (varies by region and facilities) Feed: ~60/month Hay: ~60/month (more in winter or limited grazing) Bedding: ~45/month (shavings or straw, yard dependent) Farrier: ~65/month averaged (full set every six weeks; standards regulated by the Farriers Registration Act) Insurance: ~100/month (public liability is strongly recommended)These figures exclude routine vaccinations, dentistry, saddle fitting, physio, transport, lessons, and competition entries. The UKs long, wet winters also add rugging and hoof-care costs. Most horses need reliable waterproof winter turnout rugs and may benefit from a warmer option for cold snaps, plus stable rugs for the box when clipped or on limited forage. For dependable quality, many riders choose Weatherbeeta rugs and accessories for UK weather performance.Dont forget rider PPE and clothing. Prioritise a certified, well-fitted riding helmet that meets current safety standards and grippy, waterproof horse riding boots for winter yard work and hacking. Our customers often budget separately for showwear as their goals evolve; if youre eyeing affiliated outings, factor in coaching and travel too.How lease control and risk really workIn most leases, the owner keeps control over key decisions (yard, vet, farrier, training), and the lessees financial responsibility usually ends when the lease does. This is a major reason leasing reduces risk compared to ownership. In most cases, the owner dictates where the horse is boarded, care provided, and the training program the horse will maintain. In some arrangements, the owner may allow the lessee to move the horse to a predetermined boarding facility, though they may still specify which vet and farrier services are used. Farm House Tack Leases should be written to protect both the Lessee and the Lessor in case of injury. Typically, the Lessees responsibility terminates at the end of the lease period. The Plaid HorseAt Just Horse Riders, we recommend putting every term in writing: where the horse lives, who chooses the vet and farrier, what happens in an emergency, which insurance policies apply, and who pays for what day-to-day. UK equine liability insurance is essential for both parties; clarify whether youre covered under the owners policy or need your own.UK pointers for due diligence: Veterinary governance and welfare guidance: consult your local equine practice and look to BEVA (British Equine Veterinary Association) best practice for clinical standards. Farrier standards: the Farriers Registration Act governs UK farriery; confirm the farrier is registered and schedules align with the horses needs (often every six weeks). Livery standards: inspect yard drainage, winter turnout, fencing security and emergency vet access before you sign anything. Contract quality: for higher-value horses, ask an equestrian solicitor to review your lease; firms like Forsters LLP (equestrian legal specialists) understand UK-specific risks.A simple decision model: when to lease vs buyChoose leasing for 12 year horizons, variable schedules, or risk management; choose buying for 3+ years, stable finances, and when you want full control and resale value.Lease if you: Want 56 riding days per week without a lifetime commitment (full lease), or prefer a shared half lease for budget and time management. Need to cap risk if the horse is injured or unsuitable, your liability typically ends at lease expiry. Are testing a new level or discipline before buying, or your work/study plans may change within 1218 months. Prefer to pay one trainer commission to get started (The Plaid Horse), not two later on a buy-and-sell cycle.Buy if you: Can commit 3+ years; beyond this, cumulative lease fees can exceed purchase price (Saddle Box). Want full control over yard, training, vet/farrier choices and competition schedule. Value having an asset to resell or loan out in future leasing offers use, not equity. Are prepared for 6,00020,000+ per year in running costs (Moonlight Equestrian Center) and for occasional spikes (injury, transport, winter forage).Quick tip: If youre unsure, run both scenarios for 36 months. Include all likely costs, then add a 1015% contingency for vet and transport. This usually clarifies the decision in minutes.Budgeting checklist for UK ridersBefore you lease or buy, price every monthly and seasonal cost youll shoulder; most overspends come from winter forage, farrier cycles, and unplanned vet visits.Monthly core (DIY example): Livery: ~200 Feed: ~60; Hay: ~60; Bedding: ~45 Farrier: ~65 (6-week cycle averaged) Insurance: ~100 (public liability recommended for both parties)Seasonal/variable: Rugs and repairs (expect extra in winter and during growth spurts/clips). Consider a breathable heavy-weight plus a lighter option from our turnout rugs, and add a stable layer from our stable rugs range. Hoof care and mud management during British winters; talk to your farrier about pads, studs, or schedule tweaks. Routine vet/dentistry, saddle fit checks, and occasional physio (e.g., quarterly). Coaching, transport, show entries if competing.One-off setup (often underestimated): PPE: certified riding helmet; grippy, waterproof yard and riding boots; hi-vis for hacking (rider high-visibility). Horse care kit: brushes, picks, sweat scraper, etc. Build a reliable everyday grooming kit that lives at the yard. Supplements: budget for joint, hoof, or digestive support as needed see our joint and hoof supplements.Pro tip: UK weather is gear-intensive. Buying well once often beats replacing cheap rugs mid-winter; look for robust stitching, tail cords and neck options to handle weeks of wind and rain.Common UK pitfalls to avoidMost lease regrets trace back to poor contracts, unclear costs and yards that dont cope in winter. Heres what to sidestep. No written agreement: every term must be written usage days, move permissions, emergency protocols, insurance responsibility, and who pays which bills. For higher-value arrangements, use an equestrian solicitor such as Forsters LLP. Owner control surprises: confirm in writing whether the owner dictates the yard, veterinary practice and farrier, and whether you can move the horse to a pre-agreed facility (Farm House Tack). Vague vet liability: state exactly who pays for emergency and major medical bills and which vet must be used; leases should protect both sides, with the lessees responsibility usually ending at lease expiry (The Plaid Horse). Underestimating winter: British winters are long and wet; budget extra for forage and rugs, and check field drainage and shelter in person not just in summer. Skipping insurance checks: confirm liability cover applies to you when you ride. This gap catches many new lessees in the UK. Ignoring farrier cycles: the Farriers Registration Act underpins standards; agree shoeing schedules early and budget the ~65/month average (six-week cycle).Quick tip: Inspect the yard after heavy rain. Poor drainage and slippery gateways add real costs in bedding, time and vet care for mud-related skin issues.FAQsWhat is included in a full lease versus a half lease?A full lease gives you exclusive (or near-exclusive) access 56 days per week and you cover all care costs (livery, feed, farrier, vet, insurance) often 1,000+ per month for suitable competition horses (Farm House Tack). A half lease splits all care expenses 50/50 with the owner and shares riding days; fees commonly start from 150/month (Moonlight Equestrian Center; Farm House Tack).Is leasing cheaper than buying a horse outright?Leasing is cheaper upfront and generally for the first 12 years because lease fees are typically 1/31/2 of the horses value (The Plaid Horse). Over 3+ years, total lease fees can exceed the horses purchase price, and you dont build resale value buying can be more economical long-term (Saddle Box).Who pays for veterinary emergencies and major medical bills in a lease?It depends on the contract. Some owners cover major medical while you handle routine care; others specify the vet and split all costs. Get this in writing before you start, and ensure insurance and liability are explicit (Farm House Tack; The Plaid Horse).Can I move a leased horse to a different livery yard?Usually the owner decides the boarding location. Some agreements allow a move to a predetermined facility, but the owner may still require specific vet and farrier services. Negotiate this upfront and include it in the contract (Farm House Tack).What happens if a leased horse becomes injured or unsuitable?Leases should protect both parties; the lessees responsibility typically ends at lease expiry even if the horse is injured or becomes unsuitable. Thats a key risk advantage over ownership, where all ongoing costs fall to you (The Plaid Horse).How many days per week can I ride a leased horse?Full leases usually offer 56 days per week and often allow showing; half leases share days with the owner or another rider. Spell out usage days and any competition plans in your agreement (Farm House Tack).Are there hidden costs I should plan for in the UK?Yes winter forage, mud-related skin care, transport to clinics, and tack fit checks add up. Build a 1015% contingency, and plan for essentials like robust rugs, a practical grooming kit and weatherproof boots. At Just Horse Riders, we recommend a simple 12month cashflow so there are no surprises come January. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop WeatherBeetaShop Riding HelmetsShop Riding Boots

Cross Country is off and running. You can watch all the action live on Badminton TVWatch Live Now

First out on course today was the current World number one, Harry Meade, on the first of three rides, Et Hop du Matz. The pair will have settled the nerves of many less experienced competitors, jumping a lovely clear 11 seconds over the optimum time.He loved it, said an elated Harry. We set off in the spirit we meant to go on, with his ears pricked, and he finished full of running.Cosby Green and Tom Jackson also jumped clear with Jos Ufo de Quidam and United 36 (34 and eight seconds over respectively, but the 2024 winner Caroline Powell on High Time suffered a horse fall towards the end of the course, at fence 28, the Rathbones Curve, ending their competition.Holly Richardson was the first to make it home inside the time with Ballyneety Silver Service, explaining afterwards that she puts a lot of pressure on herself and went out thinking, come on, lets do it. The horse is incredibly fast and very polite, so doesnt need much setting up I dont think I have ever sat on such a fast horse.Unfortunately one of the serious contenders for the title, Gemma Stevens, retired before the Vicarage Vee perhaps due to a shoeing issue.

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 Frazzled by changing weather and last-minute yard jobs, but unsure what a fair rate is for a reliable freelance groom? Learn exactly what to pay and how to book with confidencethink 1520/hour locally (minimum 15 call-out) and around 25/hour for competitionsplus travel, insurance and task-list tips that save time and stress. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Set Local Rates What To Do: Budget/pay 1520 per hour for local yard work and ~25 per hour for competition grooming, with a 1520 minimum call-out. Why It Matters: Matches 2024 market norms and covers true self-employed costs. Common Mistake: Pricing below market or prorating tiny jobs without a minimum. Area: Price Short Jobs What To Do: Charge a 1520 minimum for 1530 minute tasks and add travel beyond 510 miles (e.g., 0.45/mile) and for evenings/weekends. Why It Matters: Set-up and travel time dont scale with minutes worked. Common Mistake: Quoting prorata hourly rates and ending up out of pocket. Area: Tiered Day Rates What To Do: Use tiers like 17/hour under 4h, 12.50/hour for 46h, and 10/hour for 712h or offer clear day packages. Why It Matters: Protects margin on short slots and stays competitive on longer bookings. Common Mistake: Applying one flat hourly rate to every job length. Area: Brief & Contract What To Do: Itemise tasks, time window, travel/premiums, cancellation, and insurance in writing; include arrival/departure texts. Why It Matters: Prevents scope creep and protects both parties. Common Mistake: Agreeing vague jobs that invite on-the-day can you just extras. Area: Insurance & Legal What To Do: Hold/verify 15m public liability, confirm self-employment and records, and check VAT status; use vetted directories. Why It Matters: Reduces risk and ensures professional standards. Common Mistake: Taking someones word for cover without seeing a certificate. Area: Adjust for Experience/Season What To Do: Pay/charge more for reliable, experienced grooms and in high-demand regions/seasons; expect ~25/hour for shows. Why It Matters: Demand, skill and timing rightly influence fair rates. Common Mistake: Keeping one static rate yearround regardless of demand. Area: Prep Yard & Kit What To Do: Label rugs by weight, premeasure feeds, and keep a basic grooming kit, headtorch and hivis ready by the yard. Why It Matters: Saves 1015 minutes per visit and improves safety. Common Mistake: Disorganised, unlabeled gear that slows every job. Area: Find, Book & Pay What To Do: Source via BGA/The Grooms List, send a clear photobacked brief, agree terms, and pay itemised invoices within 30 days (tip ~10% for exceptional work). Why It Matters: Streamlined bookings build trust and reliability. Common Mistake: Vague enquiries and late payment that deter good grooms. In This Guide What does a freelance groom cost in the UK in 2024? How to price short, single-horse jobs (catch-in, rug change, feed) Day rates and tiered pricing that actually work What should be included in your quote and contract Experience, region and season: how to adjust your price Legal and insurance essentials for UK freelance grooms and owners How to find, book and pay a reliable freelance groom Practical kit to make short-call jobs fast and safe Youre busy, the weathers changing by the hour, and your horse still needs catching, feeding and the right rug. A good freelance groom can be a lifesaver if you know what a fair price looks like and how to book them well.Key takeaway: For local yard work, budget 1520 per hour (minimum 15 call-out), with competition grooming around 25 per hour and always factor travel, clear task lists and insurance.What does a freelance groom cost in the UK in 2024?For local yard work, expect 1520 per hour; competition grooming averages around 25 per hour in the UK.This aligns with current Horse & Hound guidance and widespread yard-owner consensus on the Horse & Hound forum. Reliable, experienced grooms who can handle general yard tasks (mucking out, turning out/bringing in, feeds, rugs) regularly command 20/hour locally, while more basic roles sit around 15/hour.Rates used to be lower; a 2019 British Grooms Association (BGA) survey found most self-employed grooms charged 911/hour, with 13+ for those with 8+ years experience. The BGA actively encouraged those at the lower end to increase rates a trend reflected in todays 1525/hour benchmarks, rising in higher-cost regions such as the South East. See the BGAs survey analysis here.Average 15/hr, 20/hr for someone who is good, reliable, turns up at the right time and not 8 oclock at night. yard owners and grooms, Horse & Hound forumRemember, freelancers shoulder their own costs (transport, equipment, holidays, sick days), which is why rates are above the National Living Wage (11.44/hour from April 2024). As Horse & Hounds freelance expert Rachel notes:A lot of people think going freelance means charging more, but every extra cost becomes your responsibility sick days, holidays, equipment, transport. You have to build everything into your bottom line. Rachel, Horse & HoundFor context on day-based pricing, the BGAs own freelancer directory often shows tiering such as 17/hour for short jobs (under 4 hours), 12.50/hour for half days (46 hours), and 10/hour for full days (712 hours). Some providers publish package rates, for example GH Equestrian list 40 for a half day (1 horse, show prep included, +5 per extra horse) and 50 for a full day (+5 per extra). Routine daily grooming on full livery can be seen at around 6.50 per horse per day (Moats Way Equestrian), which reflects very basic care as part of a yards schedule.How to price short, single-horse jobs (catch-in, rug change, feed)Charge a minimum call-out of 1520 for a 1530 minute catch-in, rug swap and feed, plus travel beyond 510 miles.While a 20-minute task might pro-rata to 510 at 1520/hour, in practice a minimum fee ensures the groom covers set-up time, kit, and reliability especially when fitting you between other yards. Add a travel charge (commonly 0.45/mile or a flat fee) once youre beyond a 510 mile radius or for short-notice, evening or weekend calls.For rug changes in the UKs unpredictable autumn and spring, help your groom be fast and accurate:Label rugs clearly by weight and condition, and keep them ready to hand. If you need upgrades, browse proven winter turnout rugs and cosy stable rugs from brands our customers trust.Pre-measure feeds with notes. Secure storage and clean scoops prevent mistakes and save minutes per visit.Keep a basic yard-side check kit hoof pick, quick brush, spare headcollar or stock a tidy, durable set from our grooming collection.Quick tip: Dark winter evenings are the enemy of efficient short calls. A reliable headtorch and reflective yardwear help your groom find, check and rug your horse safely. For riders or owners on the move, our high-visibility gear boosts safety around the yard and lanes.Day rates and tiered pricing that actually workUse tiered rates such as 17/hour for jobs under 4 hours, 12.50 for half days (46 hours), and 10 for full days (712 hours) to stay profitable.This BGA-listed model recognises that set-up and travel time make shorter slots relatively more expensive. For comparison, some providers publish day packages: GH Equestrian advertises 40 for a half day (1 horse, +5 per additional) and 50 for a full day (+5 per additional). Meanwhile, routine daily grooming in a livery setting can be priced as low as 6.50 per horse per day but that is basic care delivered at scale on one yard, not a freelance ad-hoc visit.Heres a simple way to sanity-check your pricing as a groom:Start from the National Living Wage (11.44/hour) and add 2030% to cover tax/NI when self-employed.Add fixed costs: insurance, transport, equipment, admin, holidays and sick days (you fund these yourself).Apply a short-job premium (e.g., 17/hour, or a 1520 minimum call-out) to avoid losing money between yards.Owners should expect to pay a little more for short, ad-hoc tasks than for block bookings just as you would with trades like cleaners or gardeners because travel and set-up costs dont scale with minutes worked.What should be included in your quote and contractList exact tasks, timings, travel, surcharges and insurance details in writing before you start.Clarity prevents scope creep and protects both horse and groom. The British Grooms Association provides robust guidance and standard terms for freelancers; use their resources and directory to find insured professionals (BGA directory).When requesting or sending a quote, specify:Tasks: Catch-in, quick check, rug swap for weather change, feed as per yard chart; leave yard tidy.Time window: Between 4:006:00pm; text on arrival and departure.Travel and extras: 0.45/mile over 10 miles; +10 surcharge if horse is wet/exceptionally muddy.Short-notice/evening/weekend premiums if applicable.Insurance: confirmation of public liability cover (15 million recommended by BGA) and any relevant qualifications.Pro tip: Autumn and spring bring frequent rug changes in the UK. State your rug rules (e.g., if below 5C and raining, 200300g turnout; if 1012C and dry, no rug after exercise cools) and keep suitable options on hand. Our curated selection from top brands like WeatherBeeta rugs and accessories helps you match warmth and waterproofing quickly.Experience, region and season: how to adjust your priceExperienced grooms (8+ years) can charge 13+ per hour, with 1525 typical and higher in the South East and during peak seasons.The BGAs survey analysis explicitly advised those below 9/hour to increase to the 911 band, and for experienced grooms to consider 13 or more a baseline that has moved upwards in recent years. Today, a 1520/hour local yard rate is normal, and 25/hour is common for competition grooming or specialist skills.Demand and difficulty shift with the seasons:Autumn/Spring: Frequent rug changes as weather flips between wet, windy and mild; expect more short calls. A surcharge is reasonable for very wet or dirty horses that add drying or extra effort (e.g., +10).Winter: Fewer daylight hours (<8 hours midwinter) make short-notice calls harder to schedule; evening premiums are standard. Ensure safe footing and consider leg protection for muddy turnouts our horse boots and bandages collection includes hardwearing options for daily use.Spring/Summer competitions: Rates trend up to around 25/hour for show prep, plaiting, travel, and ringside support.Quick tip: Reliability is worth money. The market pays more for a groom who arrives on time, communicates clearly, and leaves the yard as they found it exactly why youll see 20/hour quoted for good, reliable providers in current discussions.Legal and insurance essentials for UK freelance grooms and ownersFreelance grooms should hold 15 million public liability insurance and comply with HMRC self-employment rules; owners should verify cover and references.The BGA recommends comprehensive public liability insurance and a professional approach to self-employment, including Class 2/4 National Insurance and accurate record-keeping. Theres no statutory wage for the self-employed, but the National Living Wage is a sensible fairness benchmark, topped up to reflect your true costs and risk profile. Most freelancers will not charge VAT unless they exceed the 90,000 turnover threshold.Owners: ask to see an insurance certificate and check references. Use vetted sources such as the BGA directory and The Grooms List. For welfare and safety, aligning with recognised UK bodies (e.g., BGA and the British Horse Society) shows youre taking best practice seriously. At the yard, safety kit matters too: a properly fitted riding helmet and visible clothing make dark-evening jobs safer for everyone.How to find, book and pay a reliable freelance groomUse vetted directories like the British Grooms Association and The Grooms List, then send an itemised brief and pay within 30 days.Heres a simple process that works:Search and shortlist: Start with the BGA directory or The Grooms List for insured, reviewed grooms near you.Send a clear brief: Horses routine, any quirks, exact tasks, time window, rug/feeding rules, yard access and where everything lives (with photos where helpful).Agree terms in writing: Rate, minimum charge, travel, premiums, cancellation, and payment terms. Include a surcharge line for exceptional mud/wet coats or laundry.Confirm kit on yard: Labelled rugs, pre-measured feeds, and a tidy grooming kit to speed up checks.Pay promptly: Itemised invoice with time, travel and extras; 30-day terms are standard. Tipping is optional, with ~10% common for exceptional ad-hoc work.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend a quick after-visit debrief by text Horse in stable with medium turnout dried off; ate full feed; switched to 200g rug as temp dropped; yard swept. These tiny details build trust and make the next booking even smoother.Practical kit to make short-call jobs fast and safeKeep a labelled rug system, pre-measured feeds and a basic grooming kit on the yard to save 1015 minutes per visit.Time is money on short calls, and organisation pays back quickly. A few smart upgrades on the yard help every groom and your horse all year round:Rug system: Two or three sensible weights ready to hand (e.g., light/medium/heavy turnout) plus a stable option. Durable, breathable designs from WeatherBeeta are favourites with our customers for UK wet spells. See our full range of turnout rugs and stable rugs.Grooming and checks: A compact caddy from our grooming collection with a hoof pick, dandy brush, and cloth is perfect for quick mud-offs and safety checks.Safety and visibility: Winter brings dark, slippery yards. Combine a reliable headtorch with our hi-vis layers so everyone can see and be seen.Leg protection: For muddy gateways or excitable turnouts, keep supportive options ready from our horse boots and bandages range.Confidence boosters: Some horses catch better with a small reward after a calm catch-in pick something from our popular treats to make short calls smoother.Quick tip: If your horse is competition-bound, store a clearly labelled show kit (plaiting bands, quarter-mark brush, travel boots) and keep your own competition clothing clean and handy. Smooth handovers make every paid minute count.FAQsWhats a fair rate for a 20-minute catch-in, rug change and feed on a local yard?Pro-rata its 510 at 1520/hour, but in practice most grooms charge a 1520 minimum call-out to cover set-up, plus travel beyond 510 miles. This matches current Horse & Hound and forum guidance.Do I need to pay extra for travel or short-notice calls?Yes. Its common to add 0.45/mile or a flat fee for distance beyond 510 miles, and to charge premiums for evenings, weekends or short-notice requests. See recent experiences on the Horse & Hound forum.How does experience affect pricing for basic tasks?The BGAs survey shows 911/hour as a historic baseline for novices, rising to 13+/hour for 8+ years experience with todays typical local yard rates sitting at 1520/hour, and reliability pushing towards 20/hour. Read the BGA analysis here.Whats the going rate at competitions vs. yard work?Around 25/hour for competition grooming (prep, travel, ringside support) versus 1520/hour for local yard basics such as catch-in, feed and rugs, per Horse & Hound.Should I tip or pay VAT?No VAT is charged unless the groom is over the current threshold (around 90,000 turnover). Tipping is optional; 10% is a nice gesture for exceptional ad-hoc jobs.How many stables per hour is reasonable for general yard work?Forum consensus suggests 23 stables per hour for a capable groom, which is why rates are often compared to local cleaners (12/hour) and gardeners (15/hour) when discussing fair pay.How do I verify a grooms insurance and standards?Ask for their public liability insurance certificate (aim for 15 million cover) and references, and book via vetted sites such as the British Grooms Association directory. Align with BGA/BHS best practice to support welfare and safety on your yard.With a clear brief, fair rate and the right kit on hand, freelance support becomes easy, safe and genuinely cost-effective. If you need help choosing rugs, safety gear or a streamlined grooming set-up, our team at Just Horse Riders is here to help and our curated ranges make those quick calls quicker. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop Grooming KitShop Hi-Vis GearShop Boots & Bandages