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  • Anna Tyler and Affirm Weather the Storm to Win the $15,000 USHJA National 3 Jr/Am Hunter Derby
    Ocala, FL The $15,000 USHJA National 3 Jr/Am Hunter Derby welcomed a competitive field of 64 horse-and-rider combinations to the WEC Stadium during World Championship Hunter Rider (WCHR) week. After a rain delay paused Friday afternoons competition, Anna Tyler returned early Saturday morning, ready to rise to the occasion. Aboard Mia Thomassons Affirm, she delivered a standout handy round toSource
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    Brixton jockey makes race debut in front of Queen
    A young jockey who grew up in Brixton in South London finished second in his first race on Monday (23 February) at Plumpton with Her Majesty The Queen watching on.Hezekiah March rode Lumi Plugin into the runner-up position for Gary and Josh Moore in the Johnnie Boden Backs Jamies Farm AmateurJockeys Handicap Chase at 2.35pm.The race was won by Lily Jones riding the Neil King-trained Enjoy DAllen.Queen Camilla is a patron of the charity Jamies Farm and was in attendance at Plumpton to support Jamies Farm Raceday which raises funds and awareness of the charity throughout the day. Located just three miles from the racecourse, Jamies Farm transforms the lives of young people facing significant challenges through purposeful work, therapeutic support and a renewed sense of belonging.Hezekiah March.Amazing experienceNot everyone has the Queen on course to watch them on their first ride and it was such an incredible day, said Hezekiah.Lumi Plugin gave me a great spin, he got into a lovely rhythm and jumped really well.We didnt have quite enough on the run in but it was an amazing experience and I cant wait to get out there and do it all again.Its been a dream of mine to race ride for so long and Im really grateful to have had the support of Gary and Josh [Moore] and the team. Will Kennedy (my jockey coach) has been brilliant as well. I started riding at Ebony and then went to the Riding A Dream Academy and the British Racing School. Hopefully I can inspire other young people to get into the sport and chase the dreams and it would be great to win some races along the way as well.BackgroundHezekiah grew up in Brixton and attended Ebony Horse Club ahead of winning a scholarship place with the Riding A Dream Academy (funded by the Racing Foundation), which supports young people from diverse ethnic communities into British horse racing. The academy was established after Khadijah Mellah became the first British Muslim woman to win a UK horse race.The 19-year-old then went on to complete an apprenticeship programme with the British Racing School, before joining Gary and Josh Moores yard near Horsham in West Sussex nearly three years ago. He gained his amateur jockeys licence in 2025 and has since ridden in two point to point races.The first time I met Hezekiah he talked about becoming a jockey and so for him to have had such laser focus and have reached his dream is just a huge achievement, said Naomi Lawson, co-founder of the Riding A Dream Academy.He is another trailblazer who shows the importance of having accessible pathways, opportunities and support to help every young person achieve their dream in the sport. We are so grateful to the Racing Foundation for funding these programmes and to Gary, Josh and the team for having supported Hez for all these years and giving him this opportunity.Main image Darren Cool Images, inset image Alice Gough.More from Your HorseSpot signs of anxiety in your horse using the traffic light system and improve your bondGroundwork exercises for horses to build trustHacking lessons: Should you give them a go?The post Brixton jockey makes race debut in front of Queen appeared first on Your Horse.
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    Ifor Williams HB511 Haynet Height: Safer Chest-Level Setup
    11 min read Last updated: January 2026 If your tall horse keeps yanking hay onto the HB511s floor or snagging a shoe in the net, youre not alone. This guide shows you the safe, chestlevel setup that prevents tangles and keeps floors cleanexactly how to hang the haynet at 1.21.4 mand the simple kit that makes height tweaks easy. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Haynet Height What To Do: Hang at chest height, roughly 1.21.4 m from the floor; use the breeching bar (1.111.32 m) as your guide and tweak for each horse. Why It Matters: Keeps hay off legs, supports natural posture, and stops feed being dragged onto the floor. Common Mistake: Hanging too low so feet catch or hay ends up on wet matting. Area: Sliding Rail Kit What To Do: Fit the Ifor Williams Internal Sliding Hay Net Ring Kit (KX0841) on postSept 2012 HB511s; slide the ring higher/forward as needed and mark favourite positions. Why It Matters: Delivers precise, repeatable net placement for different horses without extra drilling. Common Mistake: Buying or fitting the kit to a pre2012 trailer without confirming compatibility. Area: PreHang Setup What To Do: Park level, handbrake on, use wheel chocks and prop stands; inspect rings/fixings; set partition and headguard; confirm tie points and breeching bar height. Why It Matters: Prevents trailer movement and gives safe, stable access while you adjust heights. Common Mistake: Working on an unsecured ramp that can bounce under you. Area: Tie Correctly What To Do: Tie the net short at the ring/rail with a quickrelease knot; position it slightly forward and keep the tail well clear; recheck after 510 minutes. Why It Matters: Minimises loops and keeps the net stable during braking and cornering. Common Mistake: Tying to a lead rope or leaving it long enough for a foot to enter. Area: Stall & Partition What To Do: Set stall length about 1.672.05 m to align the chest with the net; remove the centre partition for one horse, fit partition and headguard for two. Why It Matters: Proper stance lets horses feed comfortably and stay balanced in transit. Common Mistake: Leaving stalls unchanged so the horse must reach down or back for hay. Area: WetWeather Care What To Do: Keep nets high and short in rain; sweep, rinse and dry rubber matting after trips; use a full cover if storing outside. Why It Matters: Prevents hay wicking mud and reduces bacterial growth on damp floors. Common Mistake: Leaving spilt hay on wet mats to ferment between events. Area: Payload & Loading What To Do: Stay within the 17001750 kg payload; keep heavy items over the axle; secure everything and use only structural rings/rails for haynets. Why It Matters: Balanced, secured loads protect handling and trailer fixtures. Common Mistake: Improvising tie points or letting unsecured kit shift into nets. Area: Ongoing Maintenance What To Do: After each trip, remove nets, inspect for frayed cords and worn eyebolts, apply anticorrosion spray to fixings, and organise spares in stowage nets/bags. Why It Matters: Keeps hardware reliable and ready for safe, quick setup. Common Mistake: Reusing damaged nets or corroded rings just this once. In This Guide What height should haynet hangers be in an Ifor Williams HB511? Is the HB511 big enough for tall horses and safe haynet placement? How do you fix a haynet hanger thats too low in your HB511? What should you check before hanging the haynet? How should you position and tie the HB511 haynet? How do UK weather and roads affect haynet height and care? What do the HB511s dimensions and payload mean for hay and horses? How do you keep your haynet setup safe season after season? Your HB511 is built to carry big horses comfortably but a haynet hung too low can undo that good design in seconds. If your tall horse is dragging hay onto the floor or getting tangled, the fix is simple, safe and affordable.Key takeaway: Hang HB511 haynets at chest height (about 1.21.4 m from the floor), align with the breeching bar (1.111.32 m), and fit the Ifor Williams sliding hay net ring kit (KX0841, 55.20) on postSept 2012 trailers for precise positioning.What height should haynet hangers be in an Ifor Williams HB511?Hang HB511 haynets at chest height typically 1.21.4 m from the floor aligning with the HB511s adjustable breeching bar range of 1.111.32 m. This keeps hay clear of legs, supports natural head/neck posture, and prevents feed being pulled onto the rubber-matted floor during UK journeys.The HB511 leaves the factory with two internal hay net rings positioned for general use, but horse height and neck length vary. The quickest way to get it just right is to treat chest height as your baseline and adjust slightly up or down to suit your horses conformation. For taller horses (up to the HB511s design limit of 17.2hh), youll almost always need the ring set higher than a native pony would. Matching the net to breeching bar height is a practical cue both aim to keep the horse secure without restricting movement.Why it matters: low nets invite feet and shoes to catch, encourage horses to yank hay down, and can leave forage sitting in damp on the floor. High enough to stay off the legs, short enough to avoid loops, and positioned forward assists balance in braking/acceleration on UK roads.Is the HB511 big enough for tall horses and safe haynet placement?Yes the Ifor Williams HB511 is designed for two horses up to 17.2hh, with 2.26 m headroom and 1.79 m internal width, so big horses have the space to eat safely from a chest-height haynet.Inside, the HB511 provides an internal length of 3.523.63 m (around 11'6"), and a generous 1.79 m width to reduce crowding and stress compared to narrower models. Headroom of 2.26 m gives tall horses room to lift, lower and flex the neck comfortably while feeding. Adjustable stall length (about 1.672.05 m per stall) and an adjustable breeching bar height of 1.111.32 m let you fine-tune the stance so the horse isnt reaching down or back awkwardly for hay. If youre travelling one horse, removing the full centre partition further increases shoulder space and makes the haynet easier to access without twisting.Ifor Williams notes the HB511s extra length and width over the HB506 reduces stress on journeys. Combined with correctly placed haynets, that space helps horses travel more quietly, particularly in stopstart event traffic or on narrow rural lanes.How do you fix a haynet hanger thats too low in your HB511?Fit the Ifor Williams Internal Sliding Hay Net Ring Kit (part KX0841, 55.20) on postSept 2012 HB511s to slide the net ring to the ideal height and position on either side. The kit includes the correct fixings and eyebolts and mounts along the front ramp/inspection door area for flexible placement.This is the manufacturer-approved way to solve low net issues on taller horses. The sliding rail means you can position the ring further forward or higher to suit different horses (or two horses of unequal height) without drilling extra holes or improvising fittings. Its designed to fit both the left and right sides of post2012 HB511 trailers; if youre unsure of your trailers age, check the ID plate or consult your service history before ordering to confirm compatibility. Once installed, set the ring roughly level with the horses chest, load, and then make a minor tweak up/down to account for how your horse stands under travel.Quick tip: Make any adjustments with the trailer on level ground and the ramp supported. If you regularly swap between a 15.2hh and a 17hh, mark your favourite rail positions with a paint pen for fast set-up before a show day.What should you check before hanging the haynet?Stabilise the trailer with wheel chocks and prop stands, set the partition/headguard as needed, and confirm tie points are sound before you hang any haynet. This prevents movement of the ramp and gives you safe access to set ring height correctly.Use this pre-haynet routine every time: Position the trailer on firm, level footing and apply the handbrake. Fit wheel chocks and deploy prop stands so the fullwidth, gasassisted rear ramp cant bounce as you work. Inspect the two internal hay net rings and surrounding fixings for corrosion or sharp edges; replace or move to the sliding rail (KX0841) if needed. Decide on partition use. For two horses, ensure the full centre partition and headguard are locked in and stall length set 1.672.05 m to suit each horse. For a single horse, remove the partition to maximise space and haynet access. Check the eight external tie rings are secure for safe leading, but remember: lead ropes tie outside, haynets tie inside. Confirm breeching bar height (1.111.32 m) is appropriate for your horse so the net can be aligned at chest height.For your own safety while loading and adjusting, wear grippy footwear and a hat if your horse is lively. Our customers who lead in busy show car parks rate the added visibility of hivis rider gear and the protection of wellfitted riding helmets when working around trailers.How should you position and tie the HB511 haynet?Tie the haynet short at chest height on the trailers ring or sliding rail, using a quickrelease knot, and keep the tail of the net well clear of knees and feet. Never tie a haynet to a lead rope or to anything that can drop in height.The goal is a compact, accessible net that stays put even as the horse shifts in braking or on roundabouts. Position the ring forward so the horse reaches slightly ahead, not down between the forelegs. Tie directly to the ring or rail, keep the knot neat and easy to release, and check for any stretch once the horse has taken a few mouthfuls. If youre carrying two horses, mirror the positions so each horse has similar access and balance points. After 510 minutes of travel, a quick check during a safe stop helps you confirm the net hasnt loosened or dropped.Pro tip: Protect legs for travel. Correctly fitted travel boots or bandages reduce the risk if a horse paws at a net. Explore our selection of horse travel boots and bandages to match your horses size and the conditions youre travelling in.How do UK weather and roads affect haynet height and care?In UK autumn and winter, hang haynets high enough to keep forage clear of wet, muddy floors and clean rubber matting after every trip to prevent bacterial growth. Higher, shorter nets also help reduce stress in stopstart traffic by stopping hay from being dragged underfoot.British weather rarely plays fair on show day. Rain and mud cling to boots, tails and mats; if hay is pulled down, it wicks moisture and grime fast. The HB511s aluminium floor with rubber matting offers grip, but only if its clean and dry underfoot keep the haynet up and the floor clear. After each journey, sweep, rinse and dry the matting so spilt hay doesnt ferment between events. If your trailer lives outside, a full cover keeps interior fixtures including haynet rings free from winter damp.On the road, the HB511s specification (13pin EU lighting, DATATAG security, 165R13C tyres) is tuned for UK lanes and motorways. Pair that with sensible net placement to stop horses grabbing and dropping hay as you crawl into event traffic. Ahead of colder fixtures, rug appropriately for the waiting game: quality winter turnout rugs from trusted brands help maintain comfort when loading and standing around before and after travel. And for relaxed loading, a pocket of favourite horse treats can be the difference between a smooth ramp walk and a standoff.What do the HB511s dimensions and payload mean for hay and horses?The HB511s unladen weight is 9501000 kg with a 2700 kg gross weight, giving a payload up to 17001750 kg enough for two 850 kg horses plus kit, so haynets wont tip you over limits but must still be positioned safely.Inside, youre working with approximately 3.523.63 m internal length, 1.79 m width and 2.26 m headroom. That space lets you set stall lengths (about 1.672.05 m) so each horse stands square with the chest aligned to the haynet. Hay itself is light relative to horses, but travel weight adds up: water, tack, rugs and people count toward your payload too. Keep heavy items over the axle line, secure everything, and use the internal haynet rings (or sliding kit) rather than improvising with non-structural points.Overall dimensions (around 4.654.67 m long, 2.222.27 m wide, 2.75 m high) also matter at home: plan storage space to fully open ramps and doors so you can set and adjust haynet positions safely out of the wind and rain.How do you keep your haynet setup safe season after season?Rinse and dry the rubber matting after each trip, inspect rings and rail fixings regularly, and use a full cover in winter to protect hardware from UK damp. Organise spares in stowage nets so youre never tempted to tie a net to the wrong point.Build a quick endofjourney routine: untie and remove nets, sweep hay and droppings, hose and hang mats to dry if needed, then check for frayed net cords and worn eyebolts. A light smear of anticorrosion spray on ring fixings after winter washes keeps them turning freely. Keep spare nets, ropes and gloves tidy with stowage nets or bags so you can reach the right kit fast on dark mornings. For scrubbing and stain removal after muddy outings, browse our timesaving grooming and cleaning essentials. And if youre kitting out a new trailer, its worth a look in our clearance (Secret Tack Room) for great-value travel basics.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend treating haynet setup as part of your pretravel safety check the same way youd check tyre pressures, 13pin lights and hitch security. Its a small habit that pays off in quiet, confident travellers.ConclusionSet your HB511 haynets to chest height (roughly 1.21.4 m), align with the breeching bar, and add the KX0841 sliding rail on postSept 2012 trailers to finetune position for each horse. Stabilise the trailer, tie short with a quickrelease knot, and keep floors clean the result is safer feeding and calmer journeys in all UK conditions.FAQsWhat height should haynet hangers be in an Ifor Williams HB511?Chest height, typically 1.21.4 m from the floor, works for most horses. Use the HB511s breeching bar range (1.111.32 m) as a guide and finetune with the Internal Sliding Hay Net Ring Kit (KX0841) on post2012 trailers.Is the HB511 suitable for two 17hh horses who pull haynets low?Yes. The HB511 is designed for two horses up to 17.2hh with 1.79 m width and 2.26 m headroom. Fit the sliding haynet kit to set higher ring positions so tall horses can eat safely without dropping hay to the floor.How do I fix a haynet hanger thats too low in my HB511?Install the Ifor Williams Internal Sliding Hay Net Ring Kit (KX0841, 55.20). It fits both sides on postSept 2012 HB511s and lets you slide the ring along the front ramp/inspection door area to the perfect spot.Does the HB511 have enough tie points for safe haynet use?Yes. There are two internal haynet rings as standard and eight external tie rings. Use internal rings for haynets and external rings for lead ropes when loading/unloading.Can I add sliding haynet rails to an older HB511?The KX0841 kit is specified for postSept 2012 models. Check your trailers build date; if its earlier, consult a qualified trailer technician about safe alternatives.Whats the HB511 payload and does hay weight matter?The HB511 offers up to 17001750 kg payload (unladen 9501000 kg, gross 2700 kg). Two 850 kg horses fit within that, but remember to count tack, water and people. Hay weight is small, but still secure nets correctly at chest height to avoid floor hazards.Should I change partition settings for a single horse?Yes. Remove the centre partition for a single horse to maximise balance and access to the haynet. If carrying two, keep the full centre division and headguard in place and adjust stall length to 1.672.05 m to suit each horse. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Boots & BandagesShop Hi-Vis GearShop Riding HelmetsShop Turnout RugsShop Grooming Kit
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    UK Horse Rugging: When To Rug And What Weight To Use
    9 min read Last updated: January 2026 Struggling to decide when to rug and what weight to pick in Britains wet, windy winters? Youll get clear, UKspecific thresholds by clip, breed, and weather, plus the simple 5C startrugging rule so you can choose the right weight with confidence, layer smartly, and keep your horse comfortable in changeable conditions. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: When to Rug What To Do: Rug below 5C or when wet/windy; always rug clipped, older, underweight or fine-coated horses. Start light and add only if needed. Why It Matters: Prevents cold stress without causing overheating in changeable UK weather. Common Mistake: Rugging hardy, unclipped horses on dry, still days above 5C. Area: Choose Rug Weight What To Do: Use 0g at 814C (damp/breezy) for hardy types; 0100g at 58C; 150250g at 04C for most unclipped; 300g+ for clipped, add a neck in wind. Why It Matters: Matches insulation to temperature and exposure for steady comfort. Common Mistake: Jumping straight to heavy fills or ignoring wind chill and rain. Area: Layering Over Heavy What To Do: Use a breathable turnout (0100g) with 100200g liners you can swap; aim for 300400g total below 0C for clipped horses. Why It Matters: Gives finer control across UK temperature swings and reduces overheating risk. Common Mistake: Reaching for a single 450g rug instead of layering. Area: Adjust for Horse What To Do: Go lighter for hardy natives with full coats; go earlier/heavier for clipped, older, lean or fine-coated horses. Step up after work or in strong wind/rain. Why It Matters: Individual differences change heat loss and comfort. Common Mistake: Rugging all horses the same regardless of coat, age or condition. Area: Monitor Comfort What To Do: Check twice daily; feel shoulder/girth for damp and ribs for warm-not-sweaty; watch for shivering, sweating, tense posture or lethargy, and adjust promptly. Why It Matters: Quick tweaks prevent chills, rubs and heat stress. Common Mistake: Relying on ear temperature or a quick hand under the rug. Area: Turnout vs Stable What To Do: Use waterproof, breathable turnout outdoors; use stable rugs indoors, matching 100400g to indoor temperature and clip. Add neck covers for exposed fields. Why It Matters: Different environments need different protection to stay dry and warm. Common Mistake: Using a stable rug outside or over-rugging in warm stables. Area: Prioritise Breathability What To Do: Choose breathable fabrics next to the skin and in the outer; avoid non-breathable layers under turnouts; brush off sweat and dander when swapping rugs. Why It Matters: Breathability reduces sweat build-up and post-exercise chills. Common Mistake: Trapping moisture with a non-breathable underlayer. Area: Fit and Rubs What To Do: Check shoulder room, wither clearance and drop; adjust straps for secure movement; reassess fit with each added layer and inspect skin daily. Why It Matters: Good fit prevents pressure points, rubs and wasted energy. Common Mistake: Over-tightening or stacking layers that restrict the shoulders. In This Guide What temperature should you rug a horse in the UK? How much warmth does a rug really add? Which rug weight should I choose for todays UK weather? How to adjust for breed, clip, age and condition Layering vs single heavyweight: what works best? Spot the signs: too hot, too cold, or just right Turnout vs stable: choosing the right rug for the job UK winters are wet, windy and changeable and your horses comfort can swing with every cold front. The good news: most horses are far more cold-tolerant than we are, but the right rug at the right time makes all the difference in our climate.Key takeaway: In the UK, start rugging when temperatures drop below 5C or when its wet/windy, and always rug clipped, older, underweight or fine-coated horses. Use 150250g at 04C for most unclipped horses, 300g+ for clipped horses, and layer breathable turnouts with 100200g liners for flexibility.What temperature should you rug a horse in the UK?Rug below 5C, in wet/windy weather, and always for clipped, older, underweight or fine-coated horses. Horses with natural winter coats remain comfortable down to about 5C without rugs, according to the British Horse Society (BHS).This 5C rule aligns with UK field conditions: frequent wind chill and rain can strip warmth from even a hardy coat. As Just Horse Riders summarises from UK ISES research: rug when the air dips below 5C, or if its wet/windy, and prioritise vulnerable horses (full guidance here). Crucially, that 5C figure is for unclipped, healthy horses; once you clip a coat, you remove much of that natural insulation.Start with lighter options and build up only if needed. For many UK days hovering around 814C but damp and breezy, a waterproof 0g turnout keeps hardy horses dry without overheating. Youll find a wide range of breathable, waterproof options in our curated selection of winter turnout rugs.Assess each individual horse based on their needs... Breeds with thinner coats (e.g., Thoroughbred), underweight, fully clipped, older or ill horses may need rugs to regulate body heat. British Horse SocietyHow much warmth does a rug really add?Even light rugs add 416C to coat surface temperature, and in sub-zero tests rugged horses held 2430C at the surface vs 12.518.5C unrugged. In a UK study of 12 horses, light quilted rugs increased surface temperature by an average of 15.8C, fleeces by 11.2C, and sweet itch/fly rugs by 4.2C (study summary).During sub-zero UK weather (-0.5C to 4.5C), rugged horses surfaces stayed between 2430C versus 12.518.5C for unrugged controls. Thats why even a seemingly light rug can be too much on a bright, cold day for hardy types, especially when theyre moving and generating heat.If a thick fill rug is used in inappropriate conditions, it will trap a lot of heat... placing stress on the horse, causing them to sweat. Its much easier for a horse to warm themselves up than cool down. British Horse SocietyQuick tip: Prioritise breathability and adjust daily. Modern designs from brands like WeatherBeeta balance waterproofing with airflow to reduce the risk of heat build-up in changeable UK conditions.Which rug weight should I choose for todays UK weather?Use 150250g (mediumweight) at 04C for most unclipped horses and 300g+ (heavyweight) for clipped horses, adding neck covers in wind. At 814C and damp/breezy, hardy or native types usually do best in a breathable 0g turnout to stay dry without overheating.Heres a practical UK-focused guide combining BHS advice and the BETA temperature framework:814C, damp/breezy: 0g waterproof turnout for hardy/unclipped; thin-coated/clipped may need 50100g if exposed (guide).58C, unsettled: 0100g turnout for hardy/unclipped; 100150g for clipped or fine-coated.04C, typical UK winter: 150250g for most unclipped; 300g+ for clipped, especially with wind chill (BETA rug temperature guide).Below 0C or severe wind/rain: Hardy unclipped may step up to 200250g; clipped often 300400g and neck cover. Sheltered stables may allow you to reduce fill overnight.Remember, wind and wet factor heavily. A 5C still, bright day is not the same as 5C with sleet and a northerly wind. For indoor management during cold snaps, have a couple of mediumweight stable rugs on rotation so you can adjust to stable temperature shifts without over-rugging.How to adjust for breed, clip, age and conditionNative and hardy breeds often need less fill, while clipped, older, underweight and thin-coated horses generally need more. In the UK, thoroughbreds and similar fine-coated types typically benefit from earlier rugging and higher fills once temperatures sit below 5C or conditions are wet/windy.Unclipped native breeds (e.g., moorland ponies) have dense winter coats that trap air and shed rain; for them, a 0g waterproof turnout in damp 814C weather preserves natural insulation. Conversely, a fully clipped horse cant fluff up its coat; it loses heat more readily and is more vulnerable in wind and rain, especially after work.Age and body condition also drive decisions. Seniors who feel the damp in joints or horses on the lean side will thank you for an earlier step-up in fill (or an extra liner overnight) when the forecast turns bleak. Always combine rugging with good nutrition and shelter to reduce the load on the rug itself. The BHS emphasises assessing each horse individually thats the smartest approach in our unpredictable climate.Assess each individual horse based on their needs... (thin-coated breeds, underweight, fully clipped, older or ill). British Horse SocietyLayering vs single heavyweight: what works best?Layering a breathable outer turnout with detachable 100200g liners gives better control across UK temperature swings than jumping straight to a 450g. Research-backed guides suggest 300400g covers most clipped horses below 0C, while unclipped horses can usually go one weight lighter.A flexible set-up might look like this: a waterproof outer (0100g) plus a 100g liner for cool, breezy days, and swap to a 200g liner overnight or when the wind bites. This approach reduces the number of full rugs you need and helps prevent overheating on milder afternoons. At Just Horse Riders, we recommend a compatible system such as Shires Tempest liner options explore the range via the Shires brand collection matched with a quality outer from our turnout rugs selection.Is a 450g necessary? Rarely. As UK guides note, 300400g typically suffices for clipped horses below freezing (stable rugging advice; BETA guide). Layering lets you fine-tune warmth rather than overshooting with one very heavy fill.Pro tip: Always choose breathable fabrics next to the skin. If you add a non-breathable layer under a turnout, you trap sweat and risk chills when your horse stops moving.Spot the signs: too hot, too cold, or just rightOverheating shows as sweating, rapid breathing, lethargy or irritability; cold shows as shivering, a tightly tucked posture, raised coat, or increased hay intake. Dont rely on ear temperature or a quick hand under the rug both are unreliable indicators of core comfort.Instead, check your horses shoulder and girth areas for dampness, feel along the ribcage for warmth without sweat, and watch behaviour in the field: are they grazing contentedly, or standing tense with their tail clamped? UK research shows even a light rug can add 416C to the coat surface; on bright, cold days that can turn snug into stuffy fast, especially in a sheltered paddock.Quick tip: In typical UK winter swings (sun at 11am, sleet by 4pm), two checks a day is best practice. When you bring in for the evening, a quick brush to lift sweat and dander helps skin health keep a dedicated kit to hand from our grooming range.Turnout vs stable: choosing the right rug for the jobUse a waterproof, breathable turnout outdoors and a stable rug indoors, adjusting 100400g by temperature, clip and shelter. Stable rugs arent waterproof; theyre designed for dry, draught-managed environments, while turnout rugs protect against wind-driven rain and mud.For stabled horses, match fill to the indoor climate. A well-insulated UK yard can feel several degrees warmer than the field, so many clipped horses are comfortable overnight in a 200300g stable rug even when the outside air reads close to zero (stepping to 300400g only in true cold snaps). For field-kept horses on exposed livery yards, remember wind chill: a mediumweight turnout with a neck cover can easily outperform a heavier, neckless rug in terms of real-world warmth.Whatever you choose, fit comes first. Poorly fitted rugs cause pressure points, shoulder rubs and restricted movement that waste energy and reduce comfort the opposite of what you intended.FAQsWhen should I start rugging my unclipped horse in the UK?Start below 5C or sooner if its wet/windy; most healthy, unclipped horses cope well down to about 5C without a rug, per the BHS. In damp, breezy 814C weather, a 0g waterproof turnout keeps hardy types dry without overheating.Is a 450g rug ever necessary?Rarely in the UK. Most clipped horses are well covered at 300400g below 0C, with unclipped going one weight lighter (BETA guidance). Choose a breathable outer and add 100200g liners as needed rather than jumping to the heaviest fill.How do I tell if my horse is too hot under a rug?Look for sweating (especially shoulders/girth), rapid breathing, lethargy or irritability. Dont rely on ear temperature or a quick hand under the rug. UK research shows even light rugs add 416C at the surface adjust daily in changeable weather (study summary).Do native UK breeds need heavy rugs?Not usually. Hardy natives with full coats often do best with a 0g turnout in 814C damp weather to stay dry while preserving natural insulation. Step up gradually only if they show signs of cold or conditions worsen.Whats the difference between turnout and stable rugs?Turnout rugs are waterproof and breathable for field use; stable rugs are for dry, indoor conditions. Use 100400g stable rugs based on indoor temperature and clip status, and switch if the stable warms or cools significantly.What else should I have ready for winter rugging?A breathable turnout with neck option, a compatible 100200g liner system, and at least one medium stable rug cover most UK scenarios. Add a fleece cooler for drying off after work and keep your brush kit handy (see our grooming collection) to manage sweat and skin health. For quality outers and systems, explore turnout rugs and trusted brands like Shires and WeatherBeeta.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend you build a small, flexible rug wardrobe you can adjust quickly to the UKs fast-changing forecasts. Start light, add warmth only when your horse shows they need it, and check twice daily comfort, not heaviness, wins every winter. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop WeatherBeetaShop ShiresShop Grooming Kit
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    Horse Hoof Snowballing: How To Stop It In UK Winters
    9 min read Last updated: January 2026 Wet, heavy UK snow can pack your horses hooves into rockhard ice balls, turning every stride into a slip risk. Youll learn practical, farrier-backed ways to stop snowballingplus a quick 3step preturnout barrierso your horse stays level, comfortable and safer all winter. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Winter Barefoot Plan What To Do: If reducing ridden work, discuss removing shoes with a registered farrier; monitor comfort and use well-fitted hoof boots if needed. Why It Matters: Bare hooves dont freeze snow against metal, reducing snowballing. Common Mistake: Pulling shoes without farrier input or boot fit checks, causing soreness and rubs. Area: Anti-Snow Pads What To Do: For shod horses, ask your farrier to fit rim or full bubble pads and stick to the shoeing cycle. Why It Matters: Pads eject wet snow before it compacts, keeping feet level and more stable. Common Mistake: Fitting pads then neglecting daily cleaning, allowing debris and thrush to build. Area: Short-Term Barriers What To Do: Before turnout or hacks, pick and dry feet, then apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hoof oil; reapply as it wears. Why It Matters: A temporary film discourages wet snow from sticking and freezing. Common Mistake: Using WD-40, motor oil or harsh chemicals on hooves. Area: Hoof Boots Use What To Do: Choose boots designed for shod or barefoot as appropriate, check fit, and remove daily to dry and inspect. Why It Matters: Boots add traction and protect soles while reducing snow packing. Common Mistake: Leaving boots on for long periods or using non-reinforced boots over shoes. Area: Ice Ball Removal What To Do: Stand on non-slip ground; pick from heel to toe, warm the hoof briefly if needed, and tap gently with the pick handle. Why It Matters: Proper technique clears ice without bruising or cracking the sole. Common Mistake: Hammering at packed snow or digging sharply into the sole. Area: Daily Hoof Care What To Do: Lift and clean every hoof at least dailyespecially under pads or bootsthen dry and check for heat, odour or tenderness. Why It Matters: Regular checks prevent infection and catch bruising early. Common Mistake: Skipping cleaning because the horse seems fine in the field. Area: Yard & Route Prep What To Do: Avoid sheet ice and polished concrete; add matting, improve gateway drainage, and plan safer yard and hacking routes. Why It Matters: Better footing reduces slips and soft-tissue strain in wet snow. Common Mistake: Taking habitual slick paths instead of adjusting the route. Area: Farrier/Vet Triggers What To Do: Call a registered farrier for recurring snowballs or to fit pads; ring your vet for lameness, heat, strong digital pulse or suspected bruising. Why It Matters: Prompt help prevents worsening injury and keeps the horse comfortable. Common Mistake: Waiting for obvious lameness or repeated slips before seeking help. In This Guide What is snowballing and why it matters Should you remove shoes for winter? Short-term fixes before turnout or rides The farrier-fit fix: anti-snow pads for shod horses Hoof boots for snowy hacks and turnout How to remove ice balls safely UK winter management to reduce snowballing When to call your farrier or vet When UK snow turns wet and heavy, your horses hooves can quickly pack into rock-hard ice balls that make every step unstable. Left unchecked, snowballing bruises soles, strains soft tissues and ramps up the risk of a slip on the yard or lane.Key takeaway: To stop snowballing, remove shoes if winter work is light, fit anti-snow pads to shod horses, use short-term barriers before turnout or hacks, and clean hooves daily.What is snowballing and why it mattersSnowballing happens when wet snow meets the cold metal of horseshoes, freezes, and compacts into a solid mass that increases slipping risk and can bruise the sole. In the UKs typical wet, dense winter snow (NovemberMarch), this compaction risk is high, especially on livery yards and bridleways.According to the British Horse Society (BHS), the combination of cold steel and dense, moist snow is the perfect recipe for rapid build-up inside the shoe. This raises the hoof off the groundlike walking on a stiltso every stride becomes unstable. Repeated pressure can bruise the sole, and the altered foot balance can strain tendons and ligaments. Bare hooves tend to accumulate smaller, looser snowballs because theres no cold metal to trigger freezing; theyre still a nuisance but usually easier to remove. Slushier or very dry snow is less likely to compact; its the wet stuff thats the headache in most UK winters.Should you remove shoes for winter?Yesif youre reducing ridden work, discuss removing shoes with your registered farrier and then monitor how your horse copes. This is a straightforward way to cut snowballing risk because bare hooves dont freeze snow against metal.The BHS advises that riders scaling back winter work should consider a barefoot period under farrier guidance: If youre reducing your ridden work over winter, you may want to talk to your farrier about whether having your horses shoes removed would be appropriate. Monitor how your horse is coping and if you have any concerns, contact your farrier. British Horse SocietyIn the UK, farriers must be registered under the Farriers Registration Act 1975, so always schedule changes with a qualified professional. If your horse still does light hacking or has thin soles, you may pair short periods of barefoot with well-fitted hoof boots for grip and comfort. If you keep shoes on for performance or training needs, move straight to pads and short-term barriers (below).Quick tip: If you remove shoes, introduce any hoof boots gradually and check daily for rubs, especially in wet conditions.Short-term fixes before turnout or ridesPetroleum jelly or hoof oil creates a temporary barrier that helps stop wet snow freezing in the hoof, but it wears off quickly and must be reapplied. This is ideal as a pre-ride or pre-turnout step when snow is forecast.The BHS confirms this short-lived yet effective tactic: Applying petroleum jelly or hoof oil around the inside of the shoe and the sole of the foot helps to create a barrier and may prevent the snow freezing in your horses hoof. This will likely only have an effect for a short period as the petroleum jelly or oil will eventually wear off. British Horse SocietyHow to apply a barrier for a hack or turnout:Pick out and dry the foot thoroughly (a clean, dry sole works best).Rub a thin, even layer of petroleum jelly or hoof oil across the sole, frog and around the shoes interior rim.Reapply after a couple of hours, or sooner if the horse has gone through slush or gritty tracks.Do not use caustic substances (for example WD-40 or motor oil). Equus Magazine warns these can irritate skin; stick to petroleum jelly, hoof grease or vegetable-based sprays. If youre turning out or hacking, fit time into your routine to reapply as needed.The farrier-fit fix: anti-snow pads for shod horsesFor shod horses, two pad typesfull pads with a convex bubble and rim/tube pads around the shoe perimeterare reliable, farrier-fitted solutions that stop snow compacting in the foot. They keep the sole clear so your horse stays level and less likely to slip.Heres how they differ:Full bubble pads: A convex dome sits under the sole. Each step compresses and ejects snow before it can pack. Best for heavy, wet snow and repeated turnout in UK conditions.Rim/tube pads: A rubber ring around the shoes perimeter flexes to pop snow out while leaving the frog and much of the sole exposed. Lighter and can suit horses that dont need full sole coverage.Owners often report excellent results once pads are fitted. One rider summarised their farriers approach on the Horse & Hound forum: My farrier ended up putting a rubber pad under his shoe between it and his sole and that [works]. RHM, Horse & Hound ForumCare note: Pads shift the cleaning job from often to always. Under-pad spaces can trap mud, manure and bacteria, so lift feet daily and keep them immaculate to reduce the risk of thrush or irritation (Equus Magazine). If your horse is sensitive, ask your farrier about pad material and packing options, and keep up with the shoeing cycle so pads dont fatigue or trap debris.Hoof boots for snowy hacks and turnoutHoof boots over shod feet can add traction and reduce snow packing if they fit correctly and you remove them daily to check for rubs. Theyre also useful for barefoot horses that need protection on icy or hard winter ground.Choose a boot designed to go over shoes if your horse is shod; theyre reinforced around the toe and quarters to prevent wear. Look for tread that grips wet lanes and lightly frozen fields, and always remove boots after exercise or turnout to dry the hoof and check for rubbing or trapped grit. The BHS supports hoof boots for winter management provided the fit is right and checks are routine.For boot options and brushing/overreach protection in wintry going, explore our horse boots and bandages collection. If you plan to hack on short winter days, add safety layers for yourself toohigh-quality riding helmets and hi-vis rider gear make you more visible on grey afternoons.How to remove ice balls safelyPick from heel to toe; if snow is stubborn, briefly warm the hoof or tap gently with the hoof picks handlenever hammer. This protects the sole and prevents bruising or cracks from heavy blows.The step-by-step approach recommended by Equus (My New Horse) works well on UK yards:Stand your horse on level, non-slip ground.Use a sturdy hoof pick to clear from the frog and heel towards the toeavoid digging sharply into the sole.If the ball wont budge, dip the hoof briefly in warm (not hot) water or hold a warm, damp towel to the underside for a minute.Gently tap the ice with the blunt end of your hoof pick to loosen the bond, then pick away safely.Pro tip: Keep a spare hoof pick in your grooming kit and one by the field gate so you can deal with ice before a horse walks far. Youll find durable picks and brushes in our grooming collection.UK winter management to reduce snowballingKeep hooves cleaner and drier by managing turnout, improving underfoot traction, and using appropriate rugs so wet snow tracks less into the foot. In practice, small yard changes make a big difference during wet spells.Keep horses drier overall: A well-fitted winter rug sheds slush before it reaches the hoof and hoof-pastern line. Browse breathable, waterproof turnout rugs for winter and trusted brands such as WeatherBeeta for UK conditions. Stabled horses may benefit from appropriate stable rugs overnight to stay dry and warm between turnouts.Plan your riding window: Hack during daylight when surfaces have thawed slightly and you can see icy patches. Carry your phone, wear hi-vis and ensure your helmet is in date.Mind the surface: Avoid polished concrete, sheet ice and compacted gateways. Consider temporary matting or improved drainage where horses congregate.Warm up and cool down longer: Stiff winter muscles and altered hoof balance from patchy snow need a more gradual routine. Walk the first and last 10 minutes.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend pre-checking yard routes with a hoof pick in your pocket and keeping a simple snow plan on the tack room wall: who rugs, who wears boots, who needs reapplication of petroleum jelly, and when to call the farrier.When to call your farrier or vetContact a registered farrier promptly if snowballs recur despite barriers, or if your shod horse needs pads fitted. Call your vet if you see lameness, heat in the foot, or signs of sole bruising.Watch for these flags:Persistent or fast-forming snowballs in wet conditionsShortened, pottery stride, reluctance to move, or frequent slippingHeat, digital pulse increase, or tenderness when picking out the soleThrush or odour under pads or bootsA farrier can remove shoes for a winter break, fit rim or full bubble pads correctly, and advise on cycle length and daily care. A vet exam is sensible if bruising, abscess, or soft tissue strain is suspectedespecially after a slip on an icy track.FAQsCan I remove my horses shoes in UK winter to stop snowballing?Yesif youre reducing ridden work, the BHS advises discussing shoe removal with your registered farrier and then monitoring how your horse copes. Bare hooves usually accumulate smaller, easier-to-clear snowballs than shod feet. See the BHS winter hoof care guidance.What are the best pads for shod horses in snow?Farrier-fitted rim pads or full bubble pads are the go-to choices. Rim pads sit around the shoe perimeter and flex to eject snow; full convex pads cover the sole and actively pop out snow with each step. Clean hooves daily to prevent debris build-up (Equus Magazine).How do I quickly remove stubborn ice balls?Pick from heel to toe; if stuck, soften the ice with brief warm water contact or a warm towel, then gently tap with the hoof pick handlenever hammer. Full steps at Equus (My New Horse).Is Vaseline (petroleum jelly) effective, and how long does it last?Yes, its an effective short-term barrier on the sole and inside the shoe, but it wears off quicklyreapply before and, if needed, during turnout or hacks (BHS).Are hoof boots safe over shoes for snowy turnout or hacks?Yesif theyre designed for shod hooves, fitted correctly and removed daily to check for rubs and trapped debris. For options, see our horse boots and bandages.Does going barefoot eliminate snowballing completely?Nobare hooves can still pick up smaller snowballs, but theyre usually looser and easier to remove because theres no metal to freeze snow against. Daily picking remains essential in wet UK snow.Can I use WD-40 or motor oil to stop snow sticking?No. Caustic or petroleum-distillate products can irritate skin. Stick to petroleum jelly, hoof grease or vegetable-based sprays as safer short-term barriers (Equus Magazine).Ready your winter toolkit: a reliable hoof pick in your grooming kit, suitable hoof protection from our boots and bandages range, and turnout solutions from our curated winter turnout rugs and stable rugsincluding favourites from WeatherBeeta. Stay seen and safe with hi-vis and a well-fitted riding helmet on every short winter hack. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Boots & BandagesShop Grooming KitShop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop Hi-Vis Gear
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