10 min read Last updated: January 2026 First frost looming and dreading seized yard taps and thirsty horses? Heres a calm, yard-tested plan to keep water flowing all winter3 fast fixes you can fit in one evening (insulate, lag, isolate), plus hose discipline, ice-safe trough tips, and a 5-minute nightly check for reliable flow and happier, better-hydrated horses. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Insulate taps & pipes What To Do: Fit an insulated tap cover and lag all exposed pipework with closedcell foam, sealing joints with weatherproof tape. Add a simple windbreak around standpipes. Why It Matters: Insulation cuts heat loss and prevents freezing at vulnerable points. Common Mistake: Leaving elbows, joints and the first section of pipe uncovered. Area: Isolate & drain supply What To Do: Install or service an indoor stopcock, label it, and in hard frosts turn off the supply and leave the outside tap open to drain. Keep a tap key or spanner beside it. Why It Matters: Draining removes trapped water that would freeze and split fittings. Common Mistake: Relying on a dripping tap instead of isolating and draining the line. Area: Hose discipline What To Do: After use, disconnect, walk the hose to purge water, leave connectors open, and hang to dry or store indoors. Keep a short winter hose for quick fills. Why It Matters: Empty hoses cant freeze solid or burst. Common Mistake: Leaving hoses connected and full overnight. Area: Icefree troughs & buckets What To Do: Insulate trough sides, use deep black tubs, add windbreaks, and remove ice completely before topping with fresh water. Why It Matters: Slower icing and easy access keep horses drinking. Common Mistake: Adding salt or molasses to try to stop freezing. Area: Safe heated solutions What To Do: Use selfregulating heat cable under insulation on problem pipes, or heated buckets/deicers with RCD protection and guarded, horsesafe cabling. Why It Matters: Gentle heat maintains flow and access without constant icebusting. Common Mistake: Running unprotected cables where horses can chew or tangle. Area: Waterfirst routine What To Do: On freezing days, check and refresh every trough and bucket before other jobs. Prefill spare buckets the night before a hard frost. Why It Matters: Prioritising water prevents intake dips and related health risks. Common Mistake: Leaving water checks until after feeds and turnout. Area: Track intake & feed moisture What To Do: Note each horses daily drinking and boost hydration with soaked beet, mashes and suitable forage, following vet and product guidance. Why It Matters: Early changes flag problems before they escalate. Common Mistake: Ignoring subtle signs like drier droppings or leftover water. Area: Yard logistics & backups What To Do: Grit key paths, move water with barrows or sledges, stage lidded tubs along routes, and keep reserves, tools, spares and contact details ready; practise a quick draindown drill. Why It Matters: Good logistics save time, reduce slips, and keep water flowing in deep freezes or power cuts. Common Mistake: Waiting for a cold snap before organising reserves and a thaw plan. In This Guide Why frozen yard taps risk horse welfare Winter-proof your yard tap: fast fixes that work Protect exposed pipes, hoses and standpipes Keep troughs and buckets ice-free safely Build a cold-weather water routine Yard logistics, safety and time-savers Backup plans for deep freezes and power cuts Winter essentials from Just Horse Riders First hard frost, burst morning routine. If your yard tap seizes, everything slows: buckets, troughs, feeds, turnout. A few smart fixes now will keep water flowing and your horses drinking when the temperature plunges.Key takeaway: Insulate, cover and drain your taps and pipes, organise a coldweather water routine, and line up simple backups so your horse never goes without fresh water in a freeze.Why frozen yard taps risk horse welfareFrozen taps can quickly reduce your horses water intake and raise the risk of health issues, including digestive upsets in cold weather. Horses still need plentiful fresh water through winter; dry forage, cold air and less pasture moisture can all nudge intake down just as pipes and taps are most likely to freeze. Thats why winterising your water system and your routine is as much a welfare job as a yard job.Watch for early signs that water intake is slipping: drier droppings, darker urine, slower eating, or mild lethargy. Quick, reliable access to unfrozen water and a plan for the coldest mornings prevents these small red flags becoming bigger problems.Pro tip: Make water first your yard mantra on freezing days. Check and refresh every trough and bucket before any other jobs.Winter-proof your yard tap: fast fixes that workFit an insulated outdoor tap cover, lag any exposed pipework, and make sure you can isolate and drain the line before the first frost. These three steps solve most frozen-tap headaches.Heres a simple, reliable approach you can fit in an evening: Insulated tap cover: Use a waterproof, padded cover that encloses the entire tap body and the first section of pipe. Fit it snugly and keep it on all season. Lag exposed pipework: Wrap any visible pipes with closed-cell foam insulation and secure the joins with weatherproof tape. Pay attention to elbows, joints and standpipes. Install or service an isolation valve: A working stopcock just inside the building lets you turn off and drain the external run. In deep freezes, isolate the supply and leave the external tap open to let water escape and relieve pressure. Remove hoses after use: Hoses trap water and act like an ice baton. Disconnect, drain and hang vertically to dry, or store coiled indoors. Protect the tap location: A simple windbreak or small enclosure around a standpipe reduces wind chill and helps the insulation do its job.Quick tip: Label the outdoor stopcock clearly and keep a dedicated tap key or spanner next to it so anyone on the yard can turn off and drain the line in seconds.Protect exposed pipes, hoses and standpipesInsulate every exposed metre, drain removable lines daily, and use heat where its safe and available to prevent ice forming. The aim is to reduce cold exposure and eliminate trapped water.Work methodically from your supply point to the furthest outlet: Box-in vulnerable runs: Where feasible, enclose pipes in a simple insulated boxing along walls or fences to shield from wind and contact frost. Standpipes: Fit a robust insulated jacket around standpipes and secure it against curious noses and rubbing. Self-regulating heat cable: If you have safe power, a self-regulating heat cable under the insulation can keep problem sections above freezing. Always use an RCD and follow manufacturer guidance; keep cables out of reach of horses. Bury where possible: If youre upgrading, route new lines underground and bring them up as close to the outlet as you can. Shorter exposed sections are easier to protect. Hose discipline: After the last fill each day, walk the hose from one end to the other to purge water, leave connectors open, and store off the floor.Keep troughs and buckets ice-free safelyUse insulation, movement and warm waternot additivesto keep drinking water accessible. Additives like salt or molasses dont reliably prevent freezing and can put horses off drinking.Practical, horse-safe methods that work on UK yards: Insulate troughs: Line exposed sides with rigid insulation boards or fit a simple insulated cladding. A floating, insulated lid with a drinking aperture slows heat loss in open fields. Choose black, deep containers: Dark, deeper tubs absorb more winter sun and freeze slower than shallow, light-coloured buckets. Reduce wind chill: Position troughs out of prevailing wind or add a windbreak. Even a small shelter can cut icing dramatically. Movement matters: Floating a light ball can break the surface skin in a breeze, but dont rely on it in still, heavy frosts. Use it as a supplement to insulation, not a substitute. Warm water top-ups: Add warm (not hot) water to break ice and encourage drinking during the coldest spells. Keep a kettle or insulated flask handy on the yard. Heated solutions: Heated buckets or lowwatt de-icers can be effective where power and safe installation are available. Cables must be protected, RCDprotected and routed so horses cannot chew or entangle.Pro tip: Store spare buckets upside down off the floor to keep rims icefree. Rotate them in immediately if a bucket ices over.Build a cold-weather water routineCheck and refresh water at least twice daily, prefill reserves before a freeze, and record intake changes so you can act early. Consistency is the difference between coping and catching up.A simple winter routine that keeps you ahead: Night-before prep: Before a hard frost, fill spare buckets or lidded tubs and store somewhere sheltered. Have a dedicated ice mallet, scoop and gloves ready. Morning priority: Water first, everything else second. Break ice, remove shards completely, and top up with warm water if needed. Track intake: Make a quick note of what each horse drinks. If a good drinker suddenly leaves water, investigate. Hydration through feed: Soak beet or mash feeds and consider soaked hay or haylage to add moisture. If you use electrolytes or specific hydration supplements, follow the manufacturers guidance and your vets advice. Share the load: If youre on a livery, post a frost plan and rota. Everyone should know where the stopcocks are and how to operate backups.At Just Horse Riders, we see time and again that small preparation steps save hours on icy mornings. Many customers pair their water plan with the season switch to sturdy winter turnout rugs and reliable stable rugs so horses stay comfortable while you work the plan.Yard logistics, safety and time-saversStage water points, use wheels not wrists, and kit yourself out for grip and warmth so you can move water safely on ice. Good logistics keep you efficient and injuryfree.Make your yard do the heavy lifting: Water staging: Place intermediate tubs with lids along long routes so you can shuttle water in shorter, safer hops. Wheeled carriers: Use a barrow or sledge for heavy tubs to protect your back and avoid slips. Grip underfoot: Grit key paths in the evening. Keep a dedicated bucket of grit and a scoop beside the yard door. Personal kit: Waterproof, grippy footwear and warm layers keep you surefooted and focused. Our range of waterproof riding boots and winterfriendly womens jodhpurs & breeches help you stay warm while you work. For early starts and late finishes, add hivis for dark mornings round the yard and lanes. Helmets in the yard: If youre leading sharp horses over icy ground, consider wearing your riding helmet for extra protection.Quick tip: Keep a frost box by the tap: insulated cover spares, weather tape, gloves, a small torch, and a thermos. Youll thank yourself at 6 a.m.Backup plans for deep freezes and power cutsStore emergency water, keep manual icebusting tools ready, and know how to isolate and drain your system quickly. Redundancy is your winter safety net.What to have ready before the next cold snap: Reserve water: Foodgrade containers with lids stored in a frostsheltered spot. Rotate to keep fresh. Manual tools: A rubber mallet or wooden club for breaking ice, a plastic colander or scoop for removing shards, headtorch and insulated gloves. Mobility aids: A cheap sledge or flatbed trolley to move water with less spillage on ice. Spare parts: Extra insulated tap covers, hose connectors, a short winter hose for quick fills, and weatherproof tape. Contact list: Plumber details, electrician for heated kit, and yard frost rota pinned up. Drain-down drill: Practise isolating and draining the external line so anyone can do it in under a minute.Pro tip: If a pipe freezes, turn off the supply, open the nearest taps to relieve pressure, and thaw slowly from the warm side with gentle heat (never naked flame). Check thoroughly for leaks once flow returns.Winter essentials from Just Horse RidersSmall upgrades make a big difference when youre battling frost. Weve picked yardproof kit that our customers rate for cold snaps. Stay warm, stay steady: Waterproof, insulated riding boots and grippy soles for icy surfaces. Layer up smart: Cosy base layers under winter jodhpurs & breeches keep you mobile without bulk. For little helpers, see childrens jodhpurs & breeches. See and be seen: Early starts and late finishes call for hivis essentials. Horse comfort: Reliable turnout rugs and yardfavourite brands such as WeatherBeeta and Shires to keep them snug while you sort water. Hydration support: Thoughtful supplements and mashes can help encourage drinking when its bitterly coldalways follow product directions. Stock up and save: Check our Secret Tack Room clearance for winter bargains, and pick up moraleboosting horse treats for after the ice is cracked.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend setting your winter plan before the first frost and doing a fiveminute check each evening. Its the easiest way to keep taps running, troughs drinkable and mornings calm.Put this plan to work tonight: fit the tap cover, drain the hose, prep spare buckets and mark the stopcock. Tomorrow morning will already feel easier.FAQsShould I leave a yard tap dripping overnight to stop it freezing?No. A dripping tap wastes water and doesnt guarantee the body of the tap or pipe wont freeze. Insulate the tap, lag the pipe, and isolate and drain the external line in severe cold instead.Is it safe to add salt or anything else to troughs to lower the freezing point?No. Dont add salt, molasses or other additives to drinking water to prevent freezingthey can put horses off drinking or change intake in unhelpful ways. Use insulation, wind protection and warm water topups instead.How often should I check water in freezing weather?At least twice daily. In hard frosts, check more frequently and remove ice completely rather than just breaking the surface.Whats the best way to stop hoses freezing?Drain them fully after use, leave connectors open, and store coiled indoors or off the ground. Keep a short winter hose for quick jobs and reduce the time water is standing inside it.Can I use heated buckets or trough deicers around horses?Yes, if they are designed for equine use and installed safely. Always use an RCD, route and protect cables so horses cant chew or tangle, and follow the manufacturers instructions. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.My outdoor tap is already frozenwhat should I do?Turn off the supply at the nearest isolation valve, open the external tap to relieve pressure, and thaw the pipe slowly from the warm side with gentle heat. Never use an open flame. Once thawed, check carefully for leaks before repressurising.What simple yard upgrades give the biggest win in a cold snap?An insulated tap cover, properly lagged pipes, disciplined hose draining, and a water first routine. Pair that with warm layers and grippy boots for safe, efficient winter chores. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. 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A dressage rider and livery yard owner from Bristol was part of a choir who wowed the judges on ITV1 talent showBritains Got Talenton Saturday night (21 March).Chloe (Flo) Dawes runs Nupdown Equestrian near Thornbury alongside her mother Ali, who is also a member of the Hawkstone Farmers Choir, and competes at Small Tour level in dressage.The Hawkstone Farmers Choir received a golden buzzer from judge Amanda Holden for their rendition of Elbows One Day Like This at their audition which took place at Birmingham Hippodrome last October. This means they have automatically qualified for the live semi-finals in May.The rural singing group was founded by Jeremy Clarkson through his Hawkstone brewery with the aim ofbringing together people from across the UK farming community who share a connection to agriculture and a love of singing.Flo Dawes (bottom row, second from left) singing on Britains Got Talent. Canon EOS R5 f/4 1/320s 200mm ISO5000Facebook postIn May 2025, a simple advert appeared on farming Facebook groups seeking strong singers who are farmers or farm workers for a lager advert. Over 500 farmers from across the UK applied, many recording their auditions on tractors or in barns between chores.About 40 farmers and those directly connected with farming were chosen, representing the industry from farmers of arable and dairy to sheep and cattle, a seed merchant, entomologist, farm secretary, educationalist and farm assurance inspector.The groups first meeting was at Jeremy Clarksons pub, The Farmers Dog, to record playful promotional jingles which have since appeared on social media. The one-off idea of a farmers choir quickly evolved into a choir dedicated to championing British agriculture.Flo competes in dressage alongside running a livery yard and singing in the choir.SurrealIts been surreal. Being part of the Hawkstone Farmers Choir is something Im incredibly proud of its about celebrating rural life in all its forms. For me, that includes the equestrian world and the wider rural economy, which I care deeply about, said Flo.Theres a huge amount of pride in where we come from and what we do. The choir has given us a platform to show that and hopefully shine a light on the importance of rural communities.As well as competing at Small Tour, Flo has also won at Premier League level with horses she has produced herself.Flos grandfather Nigel Dawes built a well-known agricultural feed merchant business in Olveston near Bristol while her father Chris Dawes is also an agricultural feed merchant.Should the Hawkstone Farmers Choir go on to win the competition and the 250,000 first prize, they intend to make a significant donation to a rural mental health charity, highlighting an issue that continues to impact farming and countryside communities. The winner is also offered the chance to perform at the Royal Variety Performance.Britains Got Talent continues Saturdays at 6.45pm on ITV1 and ITVX.Top two images BGT, bottom image ESP Photographic.More from Your Horse Essential horse worming schedule and management tips from a vetIs AI quietly revolutionising horse welfare? What it means for youHorse behaviour explained: why everything they do has meaningThe post Dressage rider is part of golden buzzer-winning choir on TV talent show appeared first on Your Horse.

Throughout his life, your horses nutrition program should be based on whats best for him as an individual. This is even more important as he ages, so dont hesitate to talk with your veterinarian and equine dental care provider about your horses needs. Here, a veterinarian shares advice on feeding the senior horse.Its important to remember that each horse is an individual. When formulating a diet for a senior horse, the first thing to consider is whether he has any medical issues (PPID, EMS, et cetera) that might change his nutritional needs, says Lisa Kivett, DVM, whose Foundation Equine Clinic is based in Southern Pines, N.C.Photo by Christiane SlawikNutrientsSome older horses may have a decreased ability to absorb protein and other nutrients like phosphorous, says Kivett. As a general recommendation, I prefer grains with 10 to 15 percent protein, 5 to 12 percent fat, 15 to 18 percent fiber, added vitamin E, and potentially vitamin C.Many people dont realize that you need to feed at least the minimum recommended amount (this is printed on the bag/label) in order for the horse to receive the correct balance of nutrients, vitamins and minerals. This holds true whether youre feeding a complete senior feed or other type of grain ration.If you have an easy keeper that tends to gain weight, even the minimum recommended amount may be too much. For those horses, a ration balancer may be a good choice, as these feeds are formulated to be fed in much smaller quantities (typically 1 to 2 pounds per day), but still provide the necessary vitamins and minerals.ForageQuality forage should form the basis for your horses nutritional program, no matter his age, but this can present a challenge since many old horses outlive their teeth.Once a horse no longer has sufficient tooth surface to grind hay, we have to find another source of calories and fiber to keep him healthy, says Kivett. This is most easily accomplished with commercial senior feeds. These feeds are formulated as a complete diet, meaning they meet all the horses nutritional needs, and have forage added as a hay replacement. Theyre also easy for the horse to chew, digest and absorb.Since a horse must eat at least 1 to 2 percent of his body weight daily, this means the average horse needs about 12 to 25 pounds of a commercial complete feed daily to meet his needs.Many horse owners are shocked by the amount, but when we consider that this is replacing all the hay they eat, it doesnt seem so far-fetched, says Kivett. Its important to keep in mind that this can only be safely done with complete senior feeds. Other grains are not designed to be fed this way and would result in health problems if fed in these quantities.Other forage replacement options include chopped, bagged forage; hay pellets; and hay cubes. Soaking cubes or pellets to form a mash works well for a senior that cant chew hay.No matter which option is chosen, its still critical that the horse receives 1 to 2 percent of his body weight per day, says Kivett. This is measured dry, before any water is added.Be careful not to feed an older horse in an environment where he must compete for food. Separate him at feeding time so he can eat at his own pace and not fret over other horses trying to steal his food. This will also allow you to monitor his consumption and notice if hes not cleaning up or has trouble eating. Dental DetailsSome owners mistakenly think an old horse with worn-down or missing teeth doesnt need dental care.Its pretty rare to see an older horse with absolutely no teeth and no risk of periodontal disease, says Kivett. While older horses are less likely to need a float, they are more likely to have periodontal disease and other painful oral conditions that require treatment.Dental abnormalities and periodontal disease are very common in older horses, she adds. I routinely see horses with periodontal pockets, infected spaces (diastemata) between the teeth, cavities, broken teeth, and large overgrowths of teeth. Incisor disease becomes more common in older horses as well. We are recognizing more cases of a very painful incisor disease called equine odontoclastic tooth resorption and hypercementosis (EOTRH), particularly in aged geldings. This causes the tooth roots to become diseased and the front teeth to become unstable, infected and painful.Kivett finds dental problems are more common in older horses that received inconsistent dental care when they were younger. Most horses need a complete dental examination once yearly. Some horses with dental problems or periodontal disease require more frequent exams, at least until the problems are under control.This article about feeding the senior horse appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of Horse Illustratedmagazine.Click here to subscribe!The post Feeding the Senior Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 Struggling to add safe spark without turning your horse fizzy or fat? This guide shows exactly how to use oats with confidencelimit a 500 kg horse to 2-3 kg/day and under 50% of dry matter, balance calcium and lysine, and introduce over 7-14 daysso you gain energy, not problems. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Daily Oats Limit What To Do: Cap oats at 23 kg/day for a 500 kg horse and keep them under 50% of total daily dry matter, with forage first. Weigh feeds rather than scooping by eye. Why It Matters: Controls starch load, supports gut health, and prevents unwanted weight gain. Common Mistake: Letting oats become the bulk of the ration or guessing quantities. Area: Balance Ca & Lysine What To Do: Pair oats with calcium-rich forage (e.g., alfalfa) and add lysine or a performance balancer to correct deficits. Use a broad-spectrum balancer to cover vitamins and minerals. Why It Matters: Proper Ca:P and amino acids protect bone, muscle and topline. Common Mistake: Feeding plain oats as the only concentrate, especially for growing or working horses. Area: Slow Introduction What To Do: Introduce oats over 714 days, starting with a handful and stepping to 0.51 kg/day only if droppings and behaviour stay normal. Keep the ration consistent for 34 weeks before competitions. Why It Matters: Reduces colic risk and behavioural swings from sudden starch changes. Common Mistake: Making abrupt increases around travel or show days. Area: Split Meals & Timing What To Do: Split oats into 23 small feeds at consistent times, and leave at least 3 hours between a hard feed and fast work. Adjust amounts to workload and temperament. Why It Matters: Supports hindgut health and steadier energy and behaviour. Common Mistake: Large single feeds or last-minute pre-class scoops. Area: Choose the Right Oats What To Do: Use hulled oats for moderate energy; if using hull-less, reduce the amount by ~2030% and monitor sharpness. Select based on workload, weight goals and temperament. Why It Matters: Hull-less oats are more calorie-dense and can easily tip good-doers into weight gain. Common Mistake: Switching to hull-less oats without cutting the quantity. Area: Manage Good-Doers What To Do: Keep diets forage-first with minimal or no oats; replace up to 50% of forage with clean oat straw to slow intake. Use rugs for warmth rather than extra cereals. Why It Matters: Lowers energy intake while preserving chew time and gut comfort. Common Mistake: Adding cereals to keep horses warm instead of adjusting rugs. Area: Competition Strategy What To Do: Build oats into daily training, or use a balanced performance mix; keep the ration identical for 34 weeks before events. Split feeds and keep pre-ride starch modest. Why It Matters: Consistency protects the gut and avoids fizziness on the day. Common Mistake: Chasing energy with last-minute ration changes or big pre-test feeds. Area: Monitor & Adjust What To Do: Weigh feeds, log intake, and body condition score fortnightly; adjust rations to workload and season. Seek vet/nutritionist guidance for horses with colic, ulcer or laminitis history. Why It Matters: Data-led tweaks prevent fat gain and behaviour issues and keep diets safe. Common Mistake: Increasing starch before improving fitness or without measurements. In This Guide Are oats good for horses? How much oats should you feed a 500 kg horse? Do oats make horses fizzy or fat? Which oats should you choose and how do you balance the diet? How do you introduce oats safely in the UK? Can oat straw help manage good-doers and laminitis-prone horses? Should competition horses get oats for energy? Your practical toolkit: weighing, scoring and seasonal tweaks If your horse feels flat one week and fizzy the next, oats are probably in the conversation. Done right, theyre a useful, safe energy source; done wrong, they can unbalance the diet or tip a good-doer into weight gain.Key takeaway: Oats can be a safe, quick-release energy feed for UK horses when limited to around 23 kg/day for a 500 kg horse, kept below 50% of total dry matter, and balanced for calcium and lysine with any changes phased in over 714 days.Are oats good for horses?Yes oats are a proven source of quick-release energy with a safer fibre profile than many other cereals, provided you balance calcium and lysine and keep them under 50% of daily dry matter. Whole oats typically contain 2335% fibrous hulls and around 53% starch, which helps moderate the starch hit compared with grains like maize/corn, reducing digestive upset risk when fed appropriately (Kentucky Equine Research).This makes oats a practical choice for horses needing more spark, while most good-doers and laminitis-prone types are better managed with forage-first diets and very modest or no oats through winter. Do not feed plain oats as a complete ration: theyre often low in lysine (the first-limiting amino acid) and have an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio that must be corrected to protect bone and muscle health (UGA Extension; KER).Oats are a great way of adding quick-release energy into the diet for horses who can be lethargic or lacking in energy, but this should not be seen as a substitute for ensuring adequate fitness. Katie Grimwood, Nutrition Advisor, Baileys Horse Feeds (Horse & Hound)How much oats should you feed a 500 kg horse?For a 500 kg horse, cap oats at roughly 23 kg/day (dry matter) alongside ample forage, and never exceed 50% of total daily dry matter from oats or any single concentrate (Journal of Animal Science, PMC). Hull-less (naked) oats supply 2030% more calories than traditional hulled oats, so youll typically feed 78 lb instead of 10 lb to deliver similar energy (KER).Keep portions small and regular to support hindgut health. Weigh feeds rather than scooping by eye, and adjust to workload and body condition. For accurate daily rationing, a simple weigh system pays for itself in reduced waste and a healthier topline. Pair any energy increases with a fitness plan calories without conditioning will show up as fat, not performance.At Just Horse Riders, we advise owners to reassess rations every two weeks during workload or weather changes. Through cold, wet UK spells, many good-doers manage well on forage-only or low-oat inclusion, with warmth provided by appropriate rugs rather than extra cereals; see our range of winter turnout rugs and stable rugs to help horses hold condition without overfeeding.Do oats make horses fizzy or fat?They can quick-release starch can increase excitability in some horses, and excess calories from oats will promote fat gain if work is insufficient. However, balanced daily inclusion supports energy without weight gain in fit horses, and research shows that a 50:50 forage:oats ration over 29 days did not change body condition score versus forage-only, remaining around 2.83.0 (PMC).Fizzy behaviour often follows sudden starch hikes or large pre-exercise meals. Behaviour aside, the bigger risk with abrupt change is digestive upset:An abrupt dietary change [to oats] can increase the risk of colic, plus during exercise horses use stored energy sources not energy directly from their previous meal; this instant energy may also cause behavioural issues. Yvonne Judith, Equine Nutritionist (Horse & Hound)Quick tip: Spread daily oats across two to three feeds, feed at the same times each day, and give at least three hours between a hard feed and fast work. For horses that tip into the buzzy camp, consider reducing oats and meeting energy via fibre and oil, or switch to a balanced competition mix designed to moderate fizz.Which oats should you choose and how do you balance the diet?Whole (hulled) oats average about 53% starch and 5% fat; hull-less oats deliver 912% fat and 2030% more calories per kg, so you feed less for the same energy (KER; KER). Both types can be useful select based on your horses temperament, workload and weight goals, and remember that higher-energy hull-less oats demand tighter portion control.Balancing is non-negotiable. Plain oats have an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio (too much phosphorus, too little calcium) and variable protein quality with low lysine, making them unsuitable as a complete feed for growing, working or breeding horses without correction (UGA Extension; KER). Heres how to fix it:Pair oats with calcium-rich forage such as legume hay (e.g., alfalfa) to bring Ca:P closer to 2:1.Add lysine to meet the first-limiting amino acid requirement, supporting muscle repair and topline.Use a broad-spectrum balancer or targeted supplements to cover vitamins and trace minerals.For simple, safe correction, many owners choose a performance balancer or use targeted additions from our equine supplements selection, including trusted options from NAF supplements. If you already feed a balanced commercial mix, avoid tipping the nutrient ratios off-kilter by adding extra oats on top keep any as occasional handful treats only (KER).Pro tip: If youre feeding plain oats for a specific reason (e.g., cost control or a known ingredient list), ask your vet or an independent nutritionist (BEVA or BHS Accredited Professional) to run the numbers on lysine and Ca:P so you know your correction amounts, not guesses.How do you introduce oats safely in the UK?Introduce oats gradually over 714 days and keep the diet consistent for 34 weeks before competitions to minimise colic and behaviour swings. Abrupt changes, especially around travel and show season stress, are well-known colic risks; consistency wins from spring to summer when many UK horses routines are in flux (PMC).Follow a simple ramp-up: start with a small handful in week one, step to 0.51 kg/day in week two if needed, and only progress if droppings stay normal and behaviour is appropriate. If you see loose manure, gassiness, or a sharp uptick in sharpness, pause or step back. Many leisure horses maintain beautifully on forage-first diets in UK winters (010C); this also aligns with BHS welfare guidance on trickle-feeding and weight control.Keep the rest of management steady. Buffer cold snaps with rugs rather than feed: our turnout rugs and stable rugs help horses maintain temperature without resorting to extra starch.Can oat straw help manage good-doers and laminitis-prone horses?Yes replacing up to 50% of forage with oat straw slows intake and promotes satiety without adding energy, which is ideal for overweight horses. At 50% inclusion, researchers recorded a significantly slower consumption rate by Day 7 (p=0.018) and altered chewing behaviour, useful tools when you need to reduce calories while preserving chew time and gut comfort (International Journal of Equine Science).In practical UK terms, this is gold for winter yard routines and wet springs where turnout is limited and good-doers pile on condition. Swap part of haylage for clean, good-quality oat straw to extend eating time and reduce energy density. Monitor closely for cough risk from dusty bales and ensure adequate vitamin/mineral coverage via a balancer or targeted supplements from our horse supplement range. Body condition scoring (aim 56/9 for most leisure horses) every fortnight keeps you honest; add a weigh-tape routine and note girth holes, too.Quick tip: Straw is lower protein; pair with appropriate amino acid support to maintain topline while you whittle fat. Keep treats sensible if you like to hand-feed, swap extra oats for measured, lower-calorie options from our healthy horse treats.Should competition horses get oats for energy?Yes for lethargic types but oats must be part of a daily, balanced ration, not a last-minute boost before a class. Horses work off stored fuels, and pre-test scoops risk both colic and behaviour spikes; build oats in consistently across training (Horse & Hound).Calories are just units of energy, so high energy feeds [like oats] are also high in calories... if used they should be incorporated as part of a fully balanced diet and in combination with a suitable fitness regime. Katie Grimwood, Baileys Horse Feeds (Horse & Hound)For many sport horses, a formulated performance mix that includes oats can deliver the same quick-release edge with the correct Ca:P and amino acid profile already balanced. If your horse gets sharp, split feeds, use smaller pre-ride amounts, or push more energy from fibre and oil while keeping oats modest. During summer shows and stay-aways, plan feed deliveries and keep the ration identical to what youve run for the previous 34 weeks to protect the gut and form.Heading to a championship? Sort your wardrobe early so you can focus on feed timing and warm-up on the day browse our competition clothing and pack a light fly rug for warm-ups on fly-heavy showgrounds.Your practical toolkit: weighing, scoring and seasonal tweaksAccurate weighing and regular body condition scoring (target 56/9 for UK leisure horses) beat guesswork every time. Weigh your horse monthly, your feeds weekly, and your rugs seasonally; then adjust forage and oats with a plan.Weigh feeds: Use scales for oats and forage nets. Log daily intakes so you can correlate behaviour and droppings with ration changes.Score fortnightly: Keep BCS notes and photos; remember many native types carry undetected neck crest fat into spring flushes.Seasonal shifts: In cold, wet spells, add warmth with rugs instead of extra cereal calories; in warm, buggy months protect energy use with fly rugs so horses arent burning fuel swishing and stomping.Fitness first: Increase workload before increasing starch. If your horse is still flat after a fortnight of structured work, consider a modest oats addition or a balanced competition mix.Health checks: If your horse has a history of colic, ulcers or laminitis, discuss any starch increases with your vet (BEVA member) or a registered nutritionist first.At Just Horse Riders, we help owners match feed to management. If youre streamlining calories for a native good-doer over winter, browse cost-effective turnout rugs to keep the cold off without reaching for extra oats.Putting it all together: a simple decision frameworkStart with forage, fitness, then add oats only if the job demands it and the temperament tolerates it. Limit to 23 kg/day for a 500 kg horse, keep under 50% of dry matter, and balance for calcium and lysine. Introduce slowly over 714 days and maintain a consistent plan for at least 34 weeks ahead of any competition (PMC).For overweight or laminitis-prone horses, prioritise lower-energy chew time with up to 50% oat straw in the forage mix to slow intake and support satiety; research shows this significantly reduces consumption rate by Day 7 (International Journal of Equine Science). Balance the rest of the ration with a balancer or targeted additions from our supplements range, and keep treats measured via our curated treats selection.If youre unsure, ask our team can help you pick the right feed strategy and the right kit so calories go to work, not to waist.FAQsYes most owners top questions on oats revolve around energy, weight, safety and practical amounts. Here are clear answers you can use today.Do oats make horses gain weight?They can. Oats are calorie-dense, especially hull-less types that deliver 2030% more energy than traditional oats (KER). Overfeeding or feeding without matching workload leads to fat gain; balanced daily use in a fit horse maintains weight while providing spark. In a 29-day study, a 50:50 forage:oats diet did not raise body condition score versus forage-only (~2.83.0) (PMC).Why do oats make my horse fizzy?Oats supply quick-release starch that can heighten excitability in some horses, particularly if introduced abruptly or fed in large meals close to work. Introduce over 714 days, split feeds, and consider reducing pre-ride starch. As Yvonne Judith notes, abrupt change also raises colic risk (Horse & Hound).Are oats safe as the only concentrate?No. Plain oats have an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio and are low in lysine, so unbalanced oat-only rations risk bone and muscle issues, especially in growing or working horses (UGA Extension; KER). Balance with legume forage and targeted supplements, or use a formulated mix/balancer.Can I feed oats for competition energy?Yes for lethargic types, but include them daily rather than as a pre-class boost. Horses perform on stored energy, not the last feed; abrupt starch changes also risk colic (Horse & Hound). Many riders find oat-inclusive, balanced performance mixes more reliable than plain oats.How much oats per day for a 500 kg horse?Typically up to 23 kg/day (dry matter) alongside ad-lib forage, keeping total oats below 50% of daily dry matter (PMC). If using hull-less oats, cut the quantity by about 2030% to deliver similar energy (KER).Are hull-less oats better than whole oats?Theyre more energy-dense (912% fat vs ~5% in hulled; 2030% more calories), so you feed less for the same energy (KER). That can help hard-working horses, but it also raises overfeeding risk for good-doers. Either way, you must balance Ca:P and lysine.Can I replace hay with oat straw if my horse is obese?Yes, up to 50% of the forage ration as oat straw can slow consumption and support satiety without adding energy; consumption rate reductions were significant by Day 7 in research (International Journal of Equine Science). Ensure quality straw, adequate minerals, and steady weight monitoring. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop SupplementsShop NAF SupplementsShop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop Horse Treats

Advertisement featureAs the days begin to lengthen and the first signs of spring emerge, many horse owners breathe a sigh of relief. Better weather often brings improved grazing, and for those who have had forage shortages or worked hard to keep condition on their horses through winter, the grass growth is very welcome.However, for good doers and overweight horses and ponies, spring can be a very different story. With the flush of new grass comes the annual challenge of managing calorie intake an essential step in avoiding excessive weight gain and supporting long-term health.Thats where Dengies Meadow Lite with Herbs can be a very useful addition to the ration. Specifically designed for good doersAs Dengies lowest-calorie fibre feed at just 5MJ/kg digestible energy, Meadow Lite with Herbs is specifically designed for horses that need to watch their waistline, without compromising on fibre intake and chew time.Meadow Lite with Herbs blends chopped straw, grasses, and pea hull fibre. A light coating of rapeseed and linseed oil supports a glossy coat, while cinnamon and thyme add flavour and interest creating a a super tasty feed. Postbiotics are also included to help maintain digestive health for a feed that supports both gut function and weight control.When fed alongside an additional source of vitamins and minerals to provide a balanced ration, Dengie Meadow Lite with Herbs can be used as the sole bucket feed. A Stubbs scoop weighs around 250g and provides only 1.25MJ of digestible energy, thus maximising chewing time for minimal calories.Low in sugarMeadow Lite with Herbs is also low in sugar, both simple sugar (3%) and water soluble carbohydrate (6-6.5%). The water soluble carbohydrate is an important value to note, as when combined with starch (0.5% in Meadow Lite) it is known as non-structural carbohydrate or NSC. It is recommended that the NSC value is below 10% for horses and ponies prone to laminitis and so Meadow Lite with Herbs is ideal.If your horse has restricted grass access, including stable time, it is important they have something else that is high in fibre to maintain chew time. An alternative to feeding strawFeeding hay to appetite can still result in excessive calorie intake and so straw is often recommended as a lower calorie alternative, providing your horse has good teeth and it is introduced to the ration gradually. If good, clean straw is difficult to source then Dengie Meadow Lite with Herbs can also be used to supplement or replace the usual forage ration for a lower calorie intake. Simply replace hay on a weight for weight basis. For example, a section of hay from a small rectangle bale typically weighs around 2kg. To replace it with the equivalent weight of Meadow Lite with Herbs, eight large round Stubbs scoops are required, which will supply around half the energy compared to average hay. A 15kg bag of Meadow Lite with Herbs holds approximately 60 Stubbs scoops, providing great value for money, too. Dengie Meadow Lite with Herbs can be used to supplement or replace forage for a lower calorie intakeKeeping Roos weight in checkRoo has always been a naturally good doer. His owner, Adele, has to watch his weight and monitor his calorie intake carefully to maintain a healthy weight.As Meadow Lite with Herbs is low in calories, Adele says she can provide Roo with plenty of chopped fibre in his bucket feed, which he finds tasty and absolutely loves.Adele describes that Roo can also be spicy at times. As Meadow Lite with Herbs provides slow-release energy, it also avoids exacerbating his natural exuberance, which Adele describes as being a win for both of them.Adele and RooFor more information or nutritional advice for your own horse, get in touch withDengie.Images DengieRelated contentHorse weight loss plan: 10 ways to lose those excess pounds *Sponsored*Fat horses: why the equine obesity epidemic matters now more than everA feed to support and maintain healthy hooves, even if your horse is a good-doer *Promotion*How to keep a horses digestive system working correctlyThe post Spring into action on weight management with Dengies Meadow Lite with Herbs *Promotion* appeared first on Your Horse.

Keeping her comfortable, focused and ready to bring her Girl Power!

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Want your horse striding confidently over flint, forestry tracks and UK roadswithout rubs or lost boots? This guide shows you how to size at homemeasure in millimetres within 14 days of a fresh trimand when to call a pro for rehab or asymmetry, so your boots fit snugly and stay on. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Home Fitting Basics What To Do: Measure each hoof after a fresh trim, match to the Scoot chart, and choose the smaller size if between. Clean hooves and record fronts and hinds separately. Why It Matters: A snug, accurate size prevents rubbing, twisting and losses. Common Mistake: Rounding up a size or assuming all four feet are the same. Area: Measure Within 14 Days What To Do: Book a trim and measure the same day or within 14 days. Capture width at the true widest point and length from toe to the back of the trimmed hoof. Why It Matters: Hooves change fast post-trim, so late measurements give poor fits. Common Mistake: Measuring weeks after a trim and sizing to overgrown dimensions. Area: Measure in Millimetres What To Do: Use a steel ruler or calipers in mm and convert inches before you start. Photograph each hoof square-on with a ruler visible. Why It Matters: Sizes move in 5 mm steps; precision avoids ordering the wrong shell. Common Mistake: Eyeballing or using inches, leading to rounding errors. Area: Check WidthLength What To Do: Compare width and length; if they differ by over 10 mm, plan a Fit Kit or Adjust model and seek guidance via the app/photos. Why It Matters: Atypical proportions can cause twisting or loss in standard shells. Common Mistake: Forcing a standard boot on wide-short or long-narrow hooves. Area: Use App & Fit Kit What To Do: Submit clear photos via the Scoot sizing app or email, then validate size with a hired Fit Kit. Label left/right shells and test fronts and hinds. Why It Matters: Confirms sizing and reduces costly, avoidable returns. Common Mistake: Ordering blind without photo checks or trial shells. Area: Choose Right Model What To Do: Select Classic for healthy, symmetrical hooves; Adjust for fitting challenges; TheraRide for vet/farrier-guided rehab. Why It Matters: Matching the model to the hoof and workload improves comfort and security. Common Mistake: Using a standard boot for rehab or complex hoof shapes. Area: Run Fit Checks What To Do: Verify snug wall contact and comfortable heel bulbs; walk, trot, circle, and step through mud/gravel. Start with 1520 minutes and build gradually; inspect for rubs and grit. Why It Matters: Staged testing catches issues early before longer hacks. Common Mistake: Heading straight out for a long ride without progressive trials. Area: Seek Professional Help What To Do: Involve your registered farrier and a BEVA-member vet for rehab, distorted/asymmetric hooves, or if boots twist, rub, or come off. Share measurements, photos and Fit Kit notes. Why It Matters: Expert input prevents discomfort, wasted spend and setbacks. Common Mistake: Persisting with a poor fit instead of stopping and reassessing. In This Guide Do you need a professional fitting for Scoot Boots? How to measure for Scoot Boots step-by-step When to book a professional fitter or farrier Choosing the right Scoot Boot model Fit checks: what right looks like in the yard and out hacking Common sizing mistakes (and how to avoid them) Practical kit list for stress-free Scoot Boot fitting in the UK What Just Horse Riders recommends You want your horse confident over flint, forestry tracks and UK roads without compromising hoof health but do you really need a professional fitting to get Scoot Boots right? Heres the clear, step-by-step guidance you can trust.Key takeaway: Most UK riders can size and fit Scoot Boots accurately at home using the official sizing tools and a recent trim; book professional help for atypical hooves, rehabilitation, or if test rides show twisting, rubbing or persistent loss.Do you need a professional fitting for Scoot Boots?You can usually fit Scoot Boots yourself if you measure correctly within 14 days of a fresh barefoot trim and use the official sizing resources. Professional fitting or guidance is advisable for rehab, unusual hoof shapes, or if your trial rides show problems.Scoot Boots are designed to be owner-fit friendly. Manufacturer guidance confirms sizes increase in 5mm increments, making precise measurement vital. Where hooves are healthy and reasonably symmetrical, the combination of accurate measurements, the Scoot Boot sizing app and (ideally) a Fit Kit hire is sufficient for most UK riders. If your horse is coming out of shoes, recovering from laminitis, or has flares, underrun heels or asymmetry, involve your registered farrier or vet and consider the brands photo-based sizing advice service to avoid costly mistakes.For UK conditions from chalky downs to boggy bridleways a secure, snug fit is non-negotiable to prevent twisting in mud and loss on stony climbs. If youre unsure, err on the side of getting a second opinion from a registered farrier or a BEVA-member vet for rehab cases.How to measure for Scoot Boots step-by-stepMeasure each hoof in millimetres within 14 days of a fresh barefoot trim, then match the figures to the Scoot Boot chart, which increases in 5mm increments.Follow this quick, reliable process:Book a fresh trim first. Accuracy drops if you measure beyond two weeks post-trim, as hooves grow and distort. The manufacturer specifies measuring within 14 days of a fresh trim.Clean the hooves thoroughly. Pick out and brush the sole so you can see the true perimeter and widest point. A tidy hoof makes all the difference a quick once-over with kit from our grooming collection helps.Use millimetres. Convert inches to mm before you start; the Scoot Boot chart is in mm and sizes move in 5mm steps. A steel ruler or calipers with mm markings improves accuracy.Mark the widest point. Looking at the sole, identify the true widest point (usually across the middle third) and measure width at that point, heel to heel line excluded.Measure length. From the toe to the back of the trimmed hoof (not including any frog or soft tissue), staying flush to the sole.Measure all four feet. Fronts and hinds often differ; its common to need different sizes.Match to the chart. If youre between sizes, choose the smaller size rather than rounding up, per Scoot Boot guidance. A snug fit is essential.Watch proportions. If hoof width exceeds length by more than 10mm (about 3/8"), or length exceeds width by more than 10mm, standard Scoot Boots may not suit without trying sizing shells or a Fit Kit. See the manufacturers notes: Scoot Boot sizing chart.Quick tip: Photograph each hoof directly from the front and sole level, with a ruler visible. You can send clear photos to the Scoot Boot teams free service for confirmation at sizing@scootboots.com, or submit via the Scoot sizing app for guided feedback.When to book a professional fitter or farrierBook expert help if your width/length differ by more than 10mm, your horse is in rehabilitation, hooves are distorted or asymmetric, or if a test hack shows rubbing, twisting or losses.While Scoot Boots are owner-fit friendly, some situations warrant a skilled eye:Rehab and therapeutic use. For laminitis, abscess recovery or caudal heel pain, involve your vet (ideally a BEVA member) and registered farrier. You may be advised towards Scoot TheraRide and pads, with a stricter fit protocol.Complex hoof shapes. Under-run heels, flares, high/low syndromes, clubby or sheared heels, and significant mismatches between width and length often benefit from on-yard fitting or a Fit Kit hire before purchase.Persistent problems on trial. If your boots twist at trot, rub heel bulbs, or come off in deep going, stop and reassess with a professional rather than making do.High-mileage roadwork. If you regularly hack on tarmac, ensure the fit is exact to minimise friction and movement under repetitive load.Pro tip: Before you pay for a yard visit, use the brands own pathways the sizing app, photo submission (sizing@scootboots.com), and a Fit Kit via UK stockists so your professional arrives with data in hand.Choosing the right Scoot Boot modelUse Classic for healthy, symmetrical hooves, Adjust for fitting challenges, and TheraRide for veterinary-guided rehabilitation.Different horses, different needs:Classic: A good choice for balanced, healthy hooves needing protection on stony or mixed terrain.Adjust: Designed to accommodate fitting challenges, offering more adjustment options when your horse doesnt slot neatly into a standard shell.TheraRide: Intended for therapy and rehab scenarios, typically chosen with veterinary or farriery input.For an overview of the range from a specialist UK boot retailer, see Hoof Bootiques Scoot Boot models page. When in doubt, discuss your measurements and photos via the official sizing app first, then confirm with your farrier if your horse is in any remedial program.Fit checks: what right looks like in the yard and out hackingA correct fit is snug with the heel bulbs comfortably seated, no gaping at the quarters, and no twisting at walk or trot on firm and soft ground.Run through these checks before your first proper hack:Seat and coverage. The boot should hug the hoof wall with even contact; quarters shouldnt flare out and the toe shouldnt bulge.Heel bulb security. The back of the boot should cradle the bulbs without pinching; no red marks after a short in-hand walk.Movement test. Walk, trot and do a few circles on the yard. No twisting, shuffling or clacking.Terrain test. Step through shallow mud and gravel if available. Boots should remain aligned and quiet.Post-ride inspection. Remove boots and check for heat, rubs or trapped grit. Early detection prevents sore spots.Build mileage gradually. Start with 1520 minutes, then increase. In winter, thick clay and boggy gateways test any hoof boot if you see rotation or loss, pause and re-check fit before venturing further. For safer roadwork, pair your set-up with a certified helmet from our riding helmets collection and high-visibility layers from our hi-vis range.If youre not using hoof boots on a given day but still want lower-limb protection, explore our horse boots and bandages for brushing, support and travel options.Common sizing mistakes (and how to avoid them)The big errors are measuring too long after a trim, rounding up sizes, and assuming fronts and hinds match.Avoid these frequent pitfalls:Waiting too long after trimming. Hoof shape changes quickly. Measure within 14 days post-trim as the manufacturer recommends.Rounding up. If you fall between sizes, Scoot Boot guidance is to pick the smaller shell. Up-sizing often creates movement, rubs and losses.li>Measuring in inches (or eyeballing). Use millimetres. Size steps are 5mm; rough conversions invite errors.Ignoring widthlength proportion. If one exceeds the other by more than 10mm, standard sizing may not be ideal without shells or an Adjust model; seek guidance via the sizing app or a Fit Kit.Not photographing properly. Blurry, angled photos lead to poor advice. Shoot square-on with a ruler visible.Skipping the test stage. Go in-hand first, then short ridden sessions. Increase gradually and re-check fit after each outing.Dirty hooves and debris. Grit between the boot and hoof causes rubs. Clean hooves and boots every ride. Stock up on essentials from our grooming collection.Quick tip: Good hoof health underpins good boot fit. Work with your farrier on a consistent trim cycle and consider supportive nutrition where appropriate; explore our horse care supplements and trusted brands like NAF to discuss with your vet or nutritionist.Practical kit list for stress-free Scoot Boot fitting in the UKYoull need a hoof pick, a ruler or calipers marked in millimetres, a smartphone for the sizing app and photos, and a safe hacking setup for test rides.Make your first fit as smooth as possible with:Hoof pick and stiff brush for spotless soles (see our grooming collection).Steel ruler or digital calipers in millimetres.Smartphone with good camera and the Scoot Boot sizing app installed.Electrical tape and a marker to label left/right trial shells from a Fit Kit.Comfortable, grippy footwear for you from our riding boots collection and weather-appropriate layers.Hi-vis and a certified hat for safe roadwork while testing fit: browse hi-vis and riding helmets.Seasonal comfort for your horse if youre schooling before/after hacks if theyre clipped or feel the chill, our turnout rugs and stable rugs keep muscles warm around work.Pro tip: Keep a small field kit with a towel and spare socks for you UK weather loves a surprise shower during first-fit days.What Just Horse Riders recommendsMeasure within 14 days of a fresh trim, use the Scoot Boot sizing app and free photo service, and test with a Fit Kit before you buy.At Just Horse Riders, we see the best results when riders:Book the trim, then measure in mm the same day while hooves are clean and dry.Submit clear photos with a ruler to the official service (sizing@scootboots.com) or via the app for confirmation against the 5mm increment chart.Choose the smaller shell if you sit between sizes, as the brand advises.Hire a Fit Kit from a UK stockist to validate your choice on the yard.Start with short, progressive test rides and re-check for rubs, twisting or losses after each step.If your horse is in rehab or has complicated hoof conformation, loop in your registered farrier and, for clinical issues, your vet (ideally a BEVA member). For day-to-day essentials around your fitting sessions from grooming tools to hi-vis and helmets weve got you covered.FAQsDo I really need a professional fitting for Scoot Boots?Not always. Most riders achieve a reliable fit at home by measuring within 14 days of a fresh trim, using millimetres, and following the official chart and app. Book professional help if your horse is in rehab, has atypical hooves, or if trial rides show twisting, rubbing or boot loss.How soon after a trim should I measure?Within 14 days of a fresh barefoot trim for accuracy, per the manufacturer. Hooves change shape and size as they grow, so measuring later leads to poor fit.What if my horses width and length differ a lot?If width exceeds length by more than 10mm, or length exceeds width by more than 10mm, standard sizing may not suit without trying sizing shells or a Fit Kit. Use the Scoot Boot sizing app and consider the Adjust model or professional guidance.Front and hind feet same size or different?Measure each hoof separately. Its common to need different sizes front and back, and sometimes even left to right.Im between sizes on the chart which should I pick?Choose the smaller size. The brand advises sizing down when between sizes because a snug fit prevents movement, rubbing and losses.Where can I get help confirming my size?Use the official Scoot Boot sizing app and submit clear photos with a ruler visible. You can also email sizing@scootboots.com for the free photo-based sizing service, and many UK retailers offer Fit Kit hire.Which Scoot Boot model should I choose?Classic suits healthy, symmetrical hooves; Adjust helps with fitting challenges; TheraRide is intended for rehabilitation under veterinary or farriery guidance. For an overview, see the UK retailer summary at Hoof Bootique.For safe, comfortable fitting days and hacking, dont forget your rider essentials browse helmets, hi-vis, and weather-ready turnout rugs, or treat your horse to something special from our treats collection when they ace their first booted hack. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Grooming KitShop Boots & BandagesShop Riding HelmetsShop Hi-Vis Gear

HSI is exploring the feasibility of a printed stallion book for the Irish Sport Horse and Irish Draught Studbook for 2026.Should you wish to register your interest in purchasing a stallion book, please fill out the form at the link below:https://forms.horsesportireland.ie/260812068740354The post HSI opens pre-order expressions of interest for 2026 printed Stallion Book appeared first on .

The 2026 Horse Sport Ireland Stallion Selections are taking place in Cavan Equestrian Centre on March 26th and 27th.People who wish to view the catalogue online can do so by CLICKING HERE!Horse Sport Irelands Stallion Selections are supported by the Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marine Equine Technical Support fund.The post HSI Stallion Selections Catalogue now online appeared first on .

One horse in Pierce County, Washington, recently tested positive for equine influenza. The horse was purchased at the Billings Livestock Horse Sale in Montana. It is currently recovering.EDCC Health Watch is an Equine Network marketing program that utilizes information from the Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) to create and disseminate verified equine disease reports. TheEDCCis an independent nonprofit organization that is supported by industry donations in order to provide open access to infectious disease information.About Equine InfluenzaEquine influenzais a highly contagious respiratory disease that infects horses, ponies, and other equids, such as donkeys, mules, and zebras. The virus that causes it is spread via saliva and respiratory secretions from infected horses. Horses are commonly exposed via horse-to-horse contact; aerosol transmission from coughing and sneezing; and contact with humans contaminated hands, shoes, or clothes or contaminated tack, buckets, or other equipment.Clinical signs of equine influenza infection can include a high fever (up to 106F); a dry, hacking cough; depression; weakness; anorexia; serous (watery) nasal discharge; and slightly enlarged lymph nodes. Consider monitoring your horses health at shows by taking his temperature daily, which can help you pick up on signs of infection early and take appropriate measures to reduce disease spread.Vaccinationis an important and inexpensive way to protect your horse. US Equestrian requires proof that horses have had an equine influenza vaccination within the six months prior to attending organization-sanctioned competitions or events. Your veterinarian can help you determine what other vaccines your horse might benefit from.In addition to vaccinating, following strictbiosecurity protocolscan help reduce your horses chance of infection and disease. Such measures include quarantining new equine arrivals at barns, disinfecting buckets and equipment, and preventing nose-to-nose contact between horses.