After several painful interactions, I had promised myself that I would no longer provide vet services for Rose. She usually paid her bills on time and followed my instructions, but there was just something about her that always managed to ruin my day. My assistant Kelly didnt like Rose either, but she was generally good at hiding it.Archie NemesisUnfortunately, when a barn manager called about a lame horse a few weeks later, I was busy, and Kelly didnt realize whose horse it was and booked the appointment. When we figured out that it was Roses gelding Archie, Kelly flopped back on her seat and shook her fists at the ceiling.Why does the universe hate me? she wailed.You? Im the one who has to convince her that Im a qualified veterinarian every time I see her horse.Kelly did a perfect Rose imitation. Why didnt you know that my sweet boy was about to go lame? Dont you know I have a show coming up?I started laughing and Kelly continued. My vet back East had such an instinct for these things. Oh well, we cant all be like Dr. Perfect, can we?Second ChoiceThe next morning, we pulled up to the imposing front entrance of Roses barn and punched in our gate code. I pulled into a parking lot full of gleaming Teslas and Tahoes. We didnt have to look far for Rose in her pristine Dubarry barn coat, holding Archie and barking orders at a stall worker. My stethoscope and thermometer were already in my tote, and I added a hoof pick and hoof testers.Hi Rose! Kelly said brightly. Were sorry to hear that Archie isnt feeling well.Rose ignored her and addressed me. The sports medicine team from the university was in the area last week. Theyre really the best, but they wont be back for a month, so I had to call you.The instruments in my kit rattled slightly. Archie, who was badly behaved on a good day, snorted and pranced in place.You have to move slowly and quietly around horses! Rose barked. Theyre very sensitive animals.I gritted my teeth and forced my voice to sound pleasant. What seems to be the problem, Rose?Well, its obviously his right front leg. My trainer saw it from across the barn. We think its the shoulder, but youre the vet.Can you please walk him down the breezeway for me? I said briskly. Rose handed the lead rope to Kelly, and Archie immediately planted his feet and lifted his head, the whites of his eyes showing. Kelly clucked gently to him, but he refused to move.Horses respond best to confidence, said Rose. She snatched the rope from Kelly, whod grown up on a Thoroughbred farm and was an accomplished eventer. Watch what I do here.Rose faced her horse and yanked on the lead, but Archie was mad and raised his head even higher. Then he ran backwards, dragging Rose with him. Kelly and I exchanged looks as Rose scolded him, shook the rope, made weird purring sounds, then got a striped wand and waved it at the horse, who danced away in awkward half-circles.Abscessively WrongOK, you can take him now! Rose panted. Kelly snatched the rope and growled something in Archies ear. She walked off calmly, the big horse following behind her.Archie was absolutely limping on the right front. I gently palpated the leg, looking for heat or swelling, and the big horse tensed when I pressed on a spot on his coronet band. There was a thread of heat running down the outside quarter of the foot.I retrieved my hoof testers and identified a painful area around one of the nails of the shoe.Photo by Gina CioliWhen was he shod? I asked Rose, who made a face at me.Its not his foot. I already told you, its in the shoulder!I looked up at her. Rose, put your hand here and feel the swelling and heat in his coronet. Hes got an abscess, and this shoe may need to come off. Im going to pull this one nail and see if its the problem.Rose was silent as I returned to my truck and grabbed my farrier tools. Soon I was working the nail free from the hoof, and a gush of black-ish pus began to flow from the nail hole. The stench was terrible.Rose gasped. Hes bleeding! What did you do to him?Thats pus, Rose, said Kelly in exasperation. Theres an abscess in his foot.Rose huffed as I flushed the nail holes with a special mixture that I liked. I poulticed the foot, gave Archie a tetanus shot and some pain medicine, and instructed Rose to soak the foot daily. I decided to leave the shoe in place. From experience, I knew that hed be feeling a lot better in a few days.Hocus PoulticeKelly and I returned to recheck Archie on day five, and I decided not to comment on the big glob of poultice on his shoulder. Rose silently haltered Archie, and he walked off smoothly. The heat was gone from his foot and the pain and swelling had resolved.Hes a lot better today, I announced. The infection in the foot is resolving nicely.Yes, my trainer brought by some better poultice, and we also treated his shoulder after you left. Its amazing stuffyou should learn about it.Id had enough of Rose and her trainer, and I looked her right in the eye. Yes, its amazing how draining the pus out of the foot makes the shoulder feel better. You know, you could have put cow manure on that shoulder and Archie would have recovered.Rose blinked in awe. Well, then why didnt you do that instead of making his foot bleed?This edition of Vet Adventures about Rose appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustratedmagazine.Click here to subscribe!The post Vet Adventures: Smelling Like a Rose appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A 4-year-old filly clears a jump during her mare performance test at the American Trakehner Association annual meeting. Photo by Allen MacMillan/MacMillan PhotographyA riderless sport horse negotiates a series of ground poles and small jumps, finding his wings along the way. This is free jumping, where the obstacles are aligned in a row down a chute positioned on the long side of an arena. Its fun to watch, yet a bit mystifying too. How does one teach a horse to free jump?Here, Ciaran Thompson, head trainer at Spy Coast Farm, a sport horse breeding and training facility in Lexington, Ky., shares his knowledge on this subject.Table of ContentsToggleWhy Free Jumping?Study the ProcessFacilities & EquipmentJump Chute ConstructionIntroducing Free Jumping to the HorseSafety TipsReading the HorseAbout the ExpertWhy Free Jumping?Thompson lists a number of reasons to free jump horses. These include assessing jumping talent, showing a client how their horse is progressing, as a marketing tool for selling young jumpers, building confidence in an older show horse, or helping a horse through fear of certain types of fences.Its a great way to give a horse time to figure out jumping fences by himself so he gains confidence, explains Thompson. Then when it comes to doing it under saddle, he already has a greater understanding. Hes used to it without the influence of a rider, so its not sensory overload. It gives him the best chance possible of becoming a confident and capable jumper down the line.In the spring of their 2-year-old year, Spy Coast free jumps the colts they are considering as stallion prospects to sort out which will be gelded. This allows them not only to observe the individual colts jumping talent, but also assists in evaluating each colts temperament and trainability.With stallions, you want to be looking to pass on all the best traits that you possibly can, says Thompson.In addition to all of these reasons, free jumping can be a fun way to bond with your horse, as long as you prepare properly. Thompson offers the following step-by-step advice.Study the ProcessTo observe the process, you can go to breed inspections, young horse shows, and/or clinics on free jumping. Take notes and ask questions. Volunteer where needed and learn by doing.Pay attention to how horses going through the chute react to different jumps, handlers, the longe whip, and other cues. Observe where their eyes and ears are focusing. Learn to read their body language to predict whether the horse will go through the chute willingly or if he is thinking about stopping before a jump. See if you can tell if the horse feels relaxed and confident or rushed, confused or panicked.Facilities & EquipmentA smaller arena is better for free jumping so the horse doesnt wear himself out in between jumping passes. It also makes the horse easier to catch. Thompson says something on the order of a standard dressage ring dimensions (20 meters by 60 meters) would work well. A larger arena can be subdivided for free jumping, and an indoor arena is generally better than an outdoor for this purpose.A jump chute set in the specially designed, oval-shaped training ring (called a Hitchcock pen) at Spy Coast Farm, showing the three jumping elements. Photo by Mary Jane Speer/courtesy Spy Coast Farm Youll need enough poles, jump standards and jump cups to build the jump chute, with extras built into the count. For the sides of the chute, additional jump standards can be turned sideways and used with extra rails, or stand-alone fence panels may be used. The materials should be safe if the horse runs through them. Things such as yellow plastic caution tape, carpenters saw horses, tall potted plants, traffic cones, or stacked straw or shavings bales may all be useful chute barriers. Thompson says they use three handlers when free-jumping at Spy Coast: one to lead the horse into the chute, one along the middle of the chute to keep the horse on track and moving through, and one to catch the horse on the far end. Enough lead ropes and longe whips so that each handler has both. Cord or leather lace (about 36 inches in length) to loop through the near bit ring to lead the horse up to chute that easily slides away for quick release. Bucket filled with feed or treats to entice the horse to stop and be easily caught after each jumping pass. Quick release snaps on rein ends to easily detach/attach them to bit rings. These are great for inspections or any time you are free jumping the horse in a bridle. Camera or video camera to record the session.Leading the horse into the jump chute helps keeps him from rushing through. Photo by Allen MacMillan/MacMillan PhotographyJump Chute ConstructionThere are a number of variations on the theme for free jump chute building, but they all use similar distances between poles and jumps: 9 feet between the placing pole on the ground (which encourages the horse to trot into the chute and sets him up for takeoff) and the first cross-rail fence. 21 feet from the cross-rail to the first vertical 22-24 feet to the final fence, which eventually becomes an oxer.The distance between fences may need to be adjusted for horses with different stride lengths. Watch to see if the horse struggles to make a too-long distance or has hard time fitting into a too-short distance as he travels through the chute.There also need to be points along the inner jump chute wall that can be quickly opened (to at least 4 feet wide) on the takeoff side of each jump in case a horse gets flustered and stops in the middle of the chute. This allows a handler to enter the chute, calmly catch the horse, then lead him safely out the side. The horse can then be prepared to re-enter for another try.Introducing Free Jumping to the HorseThompson stresses that the horse should lead well, respect your space, and know how to longe and/or free longe before teaching him to free jump. He should know voice commands and consistently follow body language and whip cues.At Spy Coast, they first lead the horse calmly through the chute (with no jumps up) and reward him with food from a bucket placed at the far end, well after hes left the chute. He cautions that they dont want the horse to get used to stopping for a reward immediately after the final jump, but rather the horse should get used to landing and traveling away from the jump before getting his treat.At the same time, they tell the horse whoa so that he can equate the word with stopping at that spot and the reward. They do this with the horse a few times, then trot him in-hand through the chute with a reward again.Thompson explains how they progress slowly from going through the empty chute at liberty and then introducing ground poles and later jumps in the chute. They start off with just a single pole at the end.From there, we build it up to where we have three poles down and maybe the placing pole at the beginning, he says. Then we lead the horse over the poles until he is comfortable with that. Then we add a small cross-rail at the end so he moves down through the poles and pops over the cross-rail. When the horse is confident with that, then we make a second cross-rail, then a third. Usually they get the whole idea and seem to say, Oh, Im popping around and going to the food.Over time and several sessions, they build up to verticals and oxers, and perhaps later the jumps become higher and wider, depending on the experience and age of the horse at the time. The handlers should also be well-versed in helping the horse safely progress beyond poles and cross-rails.Thompson emphasizes that throughout the process, the horse needs to remain quiet. Dont rush him through the chute by pushing too hard with voice, body language or whip. If the horse makes a mistake, then go back down a level and start again until he is confident.He advises keeping the jumping sessions short, no longer than 15 to 20 minutes.Safety TipsThompson says that communication between the humans in the ring as a horse is free jumping is key for safety. If possible, he would like to have the horse track be separated from the middle of the ring all the way around, not just in the jump chute, so that there is a safe place for people to be.He advises that one person keeps an eye on the horse at all times while others are resetting the jumps to avoid a horse running in before the chute is ready and potentially running over a person or hurting themselves.Handlers should all have longe whipsnot only to direct the horse through the chute, but also to push him away from the handler and other people in the ring. Caution should be taken when catching a horse, since they can sometimes spin and kick out at the last moment.Thompson uses protective legwear (tendon and bell boots) on horses with shoes, but doesnt usually use them on younger barefoot horses, since he wants to be able to evaluate their jumping without any effect on style that the boots might cause.Reading the HorseOver time, youll be able to see when your horse understands what is being asked. At this point, youll know you can safely progress.Some horses need to have the jumps changed more often to keep them thinking about the task and not rushing through the chute. Others need more time to figure things out at a lower level. Some will need adjustment in distances between jumps or extra ground poles placed to assist them in jumping better.Thompson points out that as a young horse develops, his jumping style may change a bit. He also shares that there are horses that, no matter how carefully you prepare, consistently want to speed through the chute. Those horses may learn more by jumping under saddle.Find full instructions on setting jump chutes, including diagrams, here.About the ExpertPhoto courtesy Spy Coast FarmCiaran Thompson is the head trainer at Spy Coast Farm in Lexington, Ky., in their Young Horse Development Center. Growing up, he was an active member of Pony Club in Ireland, where he received his A rating.He has been at Spy Coast Farm since 2017, starting as Young Horse Trainer, developing 2- and 3-year-old horses, and has been Head Trainer since 2022, overseeing the production of horses from their first rides under saddle to competing at FEI events in both show jumping and eventing.The post Introduction to Free Jumping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Welcome to Horse Illustrateds weekly installment of the Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, offered in partnership with the ASPCAs Right Horse program. This weeks adoptable horse is Star Juancho! Check back weekly for a new featured horse so you can find your Right Horse.Photo courtesy Second StrideAdoptable Horse: Star Juancho, a 9-year-old, 16.0hh Thoroughbred geldingOrganization: Second Stride, Prospect, Ky.Get to Know Adoptable Horse Star JuanchoStar Juancho is a 9year-old Thoroughbred gelding by Kantharos and out of Silver Agave (by Silver Deputy). He earned an impressive $338,690 in 53 starts on the track, which included two stakes placings. Hhe is eligible for the Retired Racehorse Projects Thoroughbred Makeover Competition.Juancho last raced on October 30, 2022 and retired with a right front sesamoid medial basilar fracture and arthritis. Juancho is waived for approved and responsible adopters. A donation would be appreciated.A freckled-faced redhead, Juancho is an unusually marked chestnut with a sweet disposition and kind eye. He loves attention and treats. He is very good for grooming and bathing, and stands quietly in crossties. He is very respectful of his handlers, and is very loving. He is currently on Equioxx to help with soundness.Juancho is currently going out with other quiet geldings and gets along well with everyone. He is quiet while out. Second Stride has not seen any vices in or out of the stall.Juancho will only be suitable for companionship, non-riding therapy, or in-hand agility. He is brave and doesnt shy away from new obstacles. He is a joy to be around, and Second Stride has fallen in love with this boy while he has been with them. He will make a great addition to your herd.Contact Second Stride today about ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, Star Juancho!Photo courtesy Second StrideCould this weeks adoptable horse be the Right Horse you have been waiting for? Click here for more information about Star Juancho,the ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week.ASPCA Right HorseASPCA Right Horse is the online adoption platform of The Right Horse Initiative, a collection of equine industry and welfare professionals and advocates working together to improve the lives of horses in transition. A program of the ASPCA, their goal is to massively increase horse adoption in the United States. To find more adoptable horses and foster horses, visit www.myrighthorse.org. To learn more about The Right Horse, a program of the ASPCA, visit www.aspcarighthorse.org.The post ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week: Star Juancho appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

There may be times when the adventurous side of you yearns for exciting new trailsand that may mean choosing to ride on trails that have been designed for more than just horses. Depending on your chosen location and the time of year, you and your horse might find yourself trail riding on a multi-use trail, which means sharing the trail with hikers, dogs, ATVs, bicycles, hunters, and more.Photo by Holly CaccamiseThese additional users of the trail can complicate your riding plans, but there are multiple ways to prepare your horse for these unknowns. At the same time, its always a good idea to study trail etiquette to help you better cope with other trail users as well.Table of ContentsToggleAcclimate at Home FirstTry Equestrian-Only TrailsATVs and UTVsBicyclesHuntersDismounting if NeededCommunicate with Other Trail UsersBe CourteousAcclimate at Home FirstThink about all the practice and training you and your horse put into preparing for a class at a show: mastering that lead change, working on collecting, nailing a jump distance. You wouldnt dream of tackling one of these skills for the first time in front of the judge.Its really no different with trail riding. Even though it may seem like a simple, low-pressure environment, you really need to employ the same training-first mindset to ensure enjoyment and safety for you and your horse. This includes preparing for whatever you and your horse may encounter while riding on a multi-use trail.Try Equestrian-Only TrailsSee if you can get your horse out of the arena and away from the familiarity of his everyday environment while still in a horses-only situation. Maybe this involves riding in a pasture your horse doesnt normally access, or riding on some other part of your own property where the setting is unfamiliar but where possible surprises are limited.Finally, you could experiment with trailering your horse to equestrian-only trails in your area, if they exist.In any case, the idea is to make sure your horse is calm on the trail in normal circumstances before adding the possibility of encountering other trail users.Ride with another seasoned trail horse and friend (or more than one!) and let them take the lead, which will help give your horse confidence.Ride with one or more seasoned trail horses and let them take the lead if your horse is new to trail riding. Photo by Daniel JohnsonATVs and UTVsATVs and UTVs are naturally a spooking hazard for horses. Not only are they loud, but the engines on these machines also tend to accelerate rapidly from low to high RPMs, creating a startling noise. The good news is you can work to desensitize your horse ahead of time by exposing him to these sights and sounds in a safe, controlled environment.ATVs and UTVs can make very loud noises that startle horses. Photo by Irinamaksimova/Adobe StockOnce on the trail, if you hear a machine approaching, try stopping, moving as far as you safely can to the side of the trail, and then waiting for the ATV/UTV to either pass or stop and yield to you.You may wish to forgo trails that are heavily used by ATVs or UTVs. In addition to the noise and action, these trails may become worn or muddy from heavy use, especially during spring or autumn transitional seasons.BicyclesAt first glance, it might seem like it would be easier to share the trail with cyclists than ATVsafter all, bicycles make far less noise. But some bikers reach very high speeds on a trail, and the lack of noise prior to their arrival may give you and your horse less time to react and prepare, especially around bends in the trail. Such a situation could really trigger the predator flight response in your horse.Newer electric bikes are gaining in popularity, and you may start seeing them on trails. Although they have some motor noise to warn you they are coming, e-bikes move much quicker than traditional bicycles, and may surprise both you and your horse.Again, desensitizing at home is wise, especially if the trail you are using is popular with cyclists. Communication with the cyclists can also be key (see below).HuntersIf your trail of choice winds through rural areas or even crosses into wilderness regions, its quite possible youll find yourself sharing it with hunters of all sorts. Some of these you may never see or hear; the only indication of their presence may be a parked vehicle or ATV.Others may have a more visible presence; you and your horse may see orange- or camo-clad hunters out enjoying nature the same way you are, moving in and out of the trail.A good plan is to do your research. What hunting seasons are open in the area where you plan to ride? This information is easily obtained from your states Department of Natural Resources website and can have a meaningful impact on your plans.Learn when hunting season is coming through your area; you may wish to avoid trail riding during these times. Photo by RobertNyholm/Adobe StockDepending on the region, some hunting seasons for specific species are long and rather low-key, attracting few hunters and spreading out the action so that no one weekend is busier than another.Other hunting seasons may be short and intense, attracting large numbers of hunters and creating plenty of trail traffic. You might wish to adjust your riding schedule to avoid the most popular hunts in a particular region. Again, its all about respecting other users of the trail and trying to work with everyone.Theres also the matter of gunshots; responsible hunters wont be using firearms when at close range to the trail, but the sound of a gunshot naturally carries a good distance. If your horse is particularly spooky about loud noises, it might be another thing to work on in training.Dismounting if NeededIf something unusual is happening or your horse seems worried, you may want to consider dismounting until the situation has passed. It all depends on the comfort level of you and your horse, but you can certainly keep dismounting in mind as a safety option in some situations.Communicate with Other Trail UsersRemember that other users of the trail probably arent horse people. Their horse-startling behaviors, such as revving an engine or suddenly moving a scary object, probably arent intended to be discourteous.Along with putting in training time, you have a responsibility to explain what you need to other trail users when you come upon each other. The following are some examples of dialogue that help put everyone at ease:My horse is a little skittish about your ATV; if you could just slowly and quietly pass, or shut off your machine and Ill pass you.I think my horse is a little afraid of your hiking backpack, so if you could just talk softly as you pass it will help put him at ease.Good morning, would you mind putting a leash your dog until I pass with my horse?Most people will be happy to comply with requests like these, and such dialogue encourages cooperation so that everyone can enjoy the trail.Be CourteousAlso remember that people might be intimidated by your horse. Its easy to forget that not everyone spends time around 1,200-pound animals regularly, so a passing hiker or cyclist may feel unsure.Good communication etiquette is helpful here as well. Be courteous and friendly. Technically, other trail users must always yield to equestrians, but there may be plenty of situations where it simply makes more sense to stop your horse and let the other trail users pass.Also, be sure to clean up after your horse; the next non-horsey hiker or cyclist will thank you. And you may want to avoid riding on soft trails after rainstorms where your horse will leave significant divots from his footprints.Just like safe driving means being responsible and working with others on the road, sharing a multi-use trail safely just requires some planning and effort on your part, along with a little caution. Theres no reason that multiple types of recreation cant take place simultaneously.Happy trails!This article about riding horses on multi-use trails appeared in the August 2023 issue of Horse Illustratedmagazine.Click here to subscribe!The post Riding Horses on Multi-Use Trails appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Felix Mizioznikov/Adobe StockDespite sparse coverage on national news, the devastation left in Hurricane Helenes wake is unimaginable, according to those with boots on the ground in North Carolina. According to military and government personnel, due to the storms extensive damage, rescue and relief efforts will continue for weeks and months as they attempt to aid people and animals stranded in the wake of this recent storm, especially those in rural, mountain towns.One of my little riding lesson students once said that making new friends at the barn is really easy, because horse people are just different. And as an adult, I cant agree with her more. Equestrians are a different breed, and when our fellow horse lovers or their beloved animals are in need of help, our community is always ready to help. So heres what you need to know:First and Foremost: Civilians, Please Stay Home!Government officials, military leaders, are insisting that civilians stay out of affected areas, including Asheville, Boone, and Candor. It has continued to rain in many of the heavily affected areas since the start of the storm, so the water hasnt had time to recede. Access to many of the small, rural, mountain towns is impossible by motor vehicle; many affected areas are currently only accessible by air due to washed out roadways or landslides. There have also been episodes of violence upon relief workers and people bringing food or supplies into the area because the people stranded in these mountain areas are getting very desperate. Civilians who want to help should not attempt to enter these areas. Trained professionals like police and members of the military need to be able to do their jobs, and untrained civilians trying to help end up doing more harm than good. They block roadways, and often get themselves into situations that they need rescued from, taking time and resources from rescue efforts.The Best Way to Help is with Your WalletIn these first days, rescue efforts are focused mainly on human lives and in reality, animals can only receive the care theyneed if their humans also have their most basic necessities met.But animal and equine rescue organizations are mobilizing, and these organizations will be working for weeks and months ahead.Currently, the best way to help is to donate.Here are some organizations that will be in desperate need of financial support in the coming days, weeks, and months ahead: American Red Cross North Carolina: In order for animals to get the care and help that they need, their humans need to be safe as well. To make a financial donation, call 1-800-RED CROSS (800-733-2767), text HELENE to 90999, or donate online. Operation Airdrop ensures that essential supplies reach those in need when ground transportation is compromised. For more information about Hurricane Helene Relief Efforts, visit here. ASAR (Animal Search and Rescue) is staged in Statesville and providing immediate relief for animals in the mountains. Visit here to help. Fleet of Angels is an equine-specific rescue organization that is currently organizing vets, equine supplies, and relief for horses. To help equines affected by Hurricane Helene, donate to the most urgent need or natural disaster fundhere. The Humane Society of the United States is also in action in the Southeast, supporting animals. Please visithereto donate.The post Hurricane Helene Relief: Donations Needed for Human, Equine, and Other Animal Aid appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Welcome to Barn Banter, the official podcast of Horse Illustrated. In Barn Banter episode 24, hosts Susan Friedlandand Horse Illustrated Editor In Chief Holly Caccamise talk with Dr. Elizabeth James, the co-founder of the Liberty Festival and CEO of International Liberty Horse Association. To end the episode, they chat with Rachel Navarro, Equine and Farm Animal Intake Coordinator at Nevins Farm, about this months ASPCA Right Horse adoptable ponies,Buggsy andMuffin.Click to listen on mobile.Listen to Barn Banter episode 24 now to learn more about liberty from Dr. James.Title Sponsor of Barn Banter: AdequanBig thanks to our sponsor, Adequan! For over 30 years, Adequan i.m. (polysulfated glycosaminoglycan) has been trusted by veterinarians, trainers and horse owners. Ask your veterinarian if Adequan is right for your horse. Visit Adequan.com to learn more. Adequan. Start with it. Stay with it.Dr. Elizabeth James, CEO of International Liberty Horse AssociationBarn Banter episode 24 guest Dr. Elizabeth JamesDr. Elizabeth James was born and raised in Montana where she grew up riding horses working cattle. Upon graduating high school she set out to turn her passion into a career by earning her BS in Animal Science from the University of Nebraska, a Masters degree in Equine Reproduction specializing in Genetics from the University of California at Davis, and most recently a PhD from the University of Kentucky in Experiential Education.In 2005, Dr. James started her career as an equine instructor at Laramie County Community College in Cheyenne, Wyo. where she taught Colt Starting and various training classes. In 2007 she accepted the position of equine instructor alongside Chris McCarron at the North American Racing Academy. From there she went on to spend more than ten years as a full time professor in the Equine Department at the University of Kentucky. Dr. James has over 15 years of experience helping students achieve their dream careers, coordinating internships, and working closely with the equine industry to develop what they are looking for in a workforce.She left the University of Kentucky in 2018 to launch Equine Career Coach which offers resources, advice, coaching, and career services specifically for the equine industry & Equine Business Solutions which helps entrepreneurs in the equine industry succeed. Together with her husband, Dr. James founded the exciting new International Liberty Horse Association in 2018 which is the first ever association for the liberty discipline and the Liberty Festival in 2022 the first expo dedicated entirely to Liberty horsemanship.Dr. James currently resides in Midway, KY with her husband, Dan; daughter, Isabella and son, Jesse on their farm, the Australian Equine Performance Center.Liberty Horse Association website Liberty Festival website Follow International Liberty Horse Association on Instagram (@libertyhorseassociation)Follow International Libery Horse Association on FacebookBuggsy and Muffin, Adoptable Ponies of the MonthBuggsy and Muffin are best friends seeking a companion-only home together.Muffin (left) and Buggsy (right). Photo courtesy MSPCA at Nevins FarmBuggsyBuggsy is a cute and flashy 21-year-old Paint mare who would make an adorable addition to your barn. She is easy to halter in her stall, lead to her paddock, and catch for turn in. She is an easy keeper (as most ponies are) and seems quite hardy and healthy. Nevins Farm does not have a full picture of her history, but as far as they know, she came from an auction in Oklahoma and hasnt done much ridden work in her life. She would be best suited to just hang out and be your best friend from the ground.Buggsy is patient for vet care and enjoys being groomed and fussed over. She seems to really like her cozy stall in the winter, but could likely handle living out 24/7 with adequate shelter and blanketing in bad weather.Learn more about Buggsy here.MuffinAn 25-year-old pony mare, Muffin was a bit shy and avoidant of touch when Nevins Farm first met her, but she has fallen into a great rhythm with them and is now easy to halter in her stall, lead to her paddock, and catch for turn in. She is an easy keeper and seems quite hardy and healthy. Muffin does well living out 24/7 and stalling overnight with day time turn out; she is super flexible.Nevins wouldnt go so far as to say she is a kid-safe pony yet, but it is possible she could get there with some time and patience. She has been straightforward for them to work with and hasnt offered a bite, kick, or rear. She does require an experienced handler for vet care, but has also improved greatly for this type of handling in the time theyve had her. She stands well for the farrier and tolerates grooming; Nevins Farm thinks shell enjoy it one day when she finds a family who will dote on her.Learn more about Muffin here.In addition to Barn Banter episode 24, you can check out all previous episodes of Horse Illustrateds podcasts.The post Barn Banter Episode 24: Sponsored by Adequan appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Table of ContentsToggleEquine Vocalization 1: WhinnyVocalization 2: NickerVocalization 3: SnortEquine Vocalization 4: SquealKey TakeawaysWhile horses rely most on body language to communicate, the noises they make are also meaningful. There are four types of horse vocalizations: whinny, nicker, snort, and squeal. Each equine vocal communication has a precise meaning, and the sounds mean the same thing each time, for every horse.Horses share several different forms of equine vocalizations.Equine Vocalization 1: Whinnywhinny; /(h)win/a loud, high-pitched neigh.What it is: The vocalization of a whinny is a horses social call. In the wild, the whinny is how horses find one another. Each horse has a distinctive unique whinny that you (and other horses) can tell apart. What it Means: This call means, Where are my friends? Or, Who is willing to be my friend? The horse is lonely and looking for a herd he knows or any horse that is willing to be a herd with him. How to Respond: Hes feeling insecure, so dont punish him. Its common for horse handlers to feel embarrassed or frustrated when their horses are whinnying constantly. Resist your frustration and calmly ask the horse to work. Heres how:1. In the moment that your horse is whinnying, put him to work and engage him in an activity, so he has something to focus on. Keep his mind engaged in a positive and effective way. Dont be harsh or rushed, but provide direction.2. Ask your horse to turn right, turn left, back up. Provide kind and constant direction until he focuses his attention on you. Once he relaxes, allow him to rest. If he whinnies again, repeat.3. If you can get your horse to feel the same sense of comfort he feels with the herd, then he wont feel alone anymore. As you build your relationship over time, the horse will feel safe and no longer need to whinny when he is with you.If a foal wanders off, a mare will often nicker to call him back. Photo by Leslie PotterVocalization 2: Nickernicker; /nikr/a soft, low, breathy whinny.What it is: The soft purring sound your horse makes implies Come to me. It can also mean Look at me when a stallion is showing off to a mare. What it Means: Its most purposeful between a mare and foal; if the foal wanders off, the mare will nicker to the youngster to call him back. Its also the sound you hear each day at feeding time which translates to Come bring me the food. How to Respond: When a horse in a wild herd orders around another horse and takes away food, he is the dominant horse. If your horse nickers at you to ask for individual treats, he may think hes dominant, and that can impact all aspects of your relationship. Heres what to do: 1. Dont let the nicker be a signal that you should go give your horse extra food or a treat.2. If the nicker only happens when youre feeding all the horses at a regular feeding time, thats acceptable.3. Dont feed a horse in the moment that he is showing aggressive behavior. Wait for him to calm down and only feed when he is calmeven if its just for a moment.Vocalization 3: Snortsnort; /snrt/an explosive sound made by the sudden forcing of breath through the nose.What it is: A horses snort is an alarm. If a horse does it and holds his head high, he has detected a threat. What it Means: When extremely alarmed, the horse may add a rattling sound to the snort, or he may just blow as a milder warning. The snort may also be used during play; when he wants to practice his flight response, hell often snort first, and then run. You may hear your horse snort on a trail ride if he detects a strange scent. Here, in the Rocky Mountains, the horses will often snort when we approach elk on the trail. How to Respond: If you hear a horse snort, stop and make an assessment. It could be one of two things: 1. Look where the snorting horse is looking. There may be something in the distance that is a legitimate threat, or it could be that the horse is fearful of something benign.2. The horse could be snorting at you if youre doing new groundwork or establishing boundaries with a previously unhandled horse. The horse needs to have some deference for the handler (and he will come to trust you in time). However, remember that a snorting horse is feeling threatened and may be willing to act out.(Editors Note: This abrupt type of alarm snort is different from the relaxed snorting that is associated with horses in a contented state. Read more about the meaning of horse snorts here.)Equine Vocalization 4: Squealsqueal; skwla long, high-pitched cry or noise.What it is: Most often heard from mares, but any horse may squeal. When horses squeal, it is usually a warning of horse-on-horse violence. What it Means: A mare will squeal to repel the advances of a stallion, but it may also indicate two horses meeting for the first time. They will sniff one another, then one will squeal as a threat of aggression. Often one horse will back down after a squeal, but if they both remain engaged, a strike or kick can come next. If a person is in the middle of horses as they become aggressive, it can be very dangerous. How to Respond:1. Make sure to get any people away from horses that are squealing.2. If horses are loose in a field and getting used to one another and you hear squealing, you dont have to break it up, but its a good idea to supervise.3. Evaluate the situation, use your best judgment, and make sure that all horses and people are safe.Key TakeawaysIn this article, youve learned about horse sounds and vocalizations, including whinny, nicker, snort, and squeal, as well as what each sound is, what it means, and how to respond.This article about equine vocalizations originally appeared in the July 2017 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!The post A Glossary of Equine Vocalizations appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Table of ContentsToggleProper Planning Prevents ProblemsStarting at the Bottom: The BaseCreating a Drain for a Riding ArenaWhats Underfoot in a Riding Arena?Key Takeaways Many horse owners dream of owning a home riding arena or facility. Lucky youyour dream has come true. You have the barn, your horses are happily settled, and now youre eyeing that bare patch of ground and envisioning your dream riding arena. Many home horse riders make do with a sectioned off piece of ground near the barn that they affectionately call their arena. But this homespun effort is really an arena in name only. Without a good base and suitable arena footing, its difficult to make the going consistent enough for your horses health and safety. If you want a safe, workable arena that will hold you in good stead for years, its going to take planning, effort and, it must be said, an investment of resources. Copyright Robin Stott and licensed for reuse under a Creative Commons LicenseThe job of the base is to make a level surface to support the footing above. If the base is properly installed, there will never be low spots, deep spots or areas that collect water in your arena. The ideal footing helps cushion your horses every stride by allowing his hooves to slide just a little bit as he sets them down and provides a firm surface for his hooves to dig into as he pushes off. Leaving your ground as is will never provide these benefits, so as a result your horses performance will suffer because he wont be able to trust the footing, and he will remember, perhaps spook, at uneven spots. Without proper drainage, you may also find your home riding arena under water and unusable most of the time.Robert Malmgren, author of The Equine Arena Handbook: Developing a User-Friendly Facility, is considered the foremost authority on horse arenas. He says creating a riding arena at home on your own is very hard if not impossible because you need several players to help you avoid pitfalls.Making an arena seems like a lot of complications, but youll avoid mistakes if you plan right and employ the right people, explains Malmgren, who is from Colorado Springs, Colo. Mistakes are very costly to correct after the arena is installed. Proper Planning Prevents ProblemsBefore you put a shovel in the ground, sit down and get organized. Think about where you want to put the horse riding arena at home. Right next to the barn may seem convenient, but if that area collects water, think again. Drainage is an issue in every arena, so youll want to avoid land thats a perpetual pond, if possible. As we get into global warming and climate change, we are going to have some extremes in moisture, Malmgren adds. This year in Colorado weve had some very extreme rains with a long duration of storms. That kind of rain would inundate an arena with drainage problems. Next, you need to determine the soil type in the site. Malmgren says to seek free assistance through people at your local office of the Natural Resources Conservation Services. They are the governments soil people for the entire country, he says. Every county should have an office. Go in and tell them what youre building and ask about what kind of soil you have. They usually have the information at hand, and can tell you whether its possible to create an arena in that area. They also provide good information, such as the percentage of sand, silt, clay and gravel in your soil. They will often come out to your site. Make sure to have a plat map of your property with you so the NRCS officials can pinpoint the location. They might not be familiar with the arena characteristics you require, so tell them what you need to know: type of soil, three feet in depth. Also, ask if the soil is high in clay, which is important regarding water absorption and base stability. The next step is to obtain a permit. Getting a permit for a home riding arena might sound like overkill, but most counties require at least a grading permit if a certain amount of land is disturbed. You may also need an erosion and sediment control permit. You may not think you are disturbing that much land, but you will disturb twice as much earth as the size of your horse arena. Even if you dont think you need a permit, double check with your local government about its building inspection procedures because rules do change. If you begin building before proper approvals or inspections take place, your local governments building inspection department has the right to stop the construction until proper permits and procedures are met. Sometimes this includes paying fines and penalties.Youll need to get yet another expert on your sidea soil consultant. Soil consultants are engineers who understand all the ins and outs of working with soil. They are the ones called in to advise facilities such as baseball fields, golf courses and parking lots. Look for a soil consultant under listings for engineering consultants. The NRCS office may also recommend someone in your area. A soil consultant is important because youll be moving soil and hell know how to help you do that correctly, Malmgren says. He can look at the NRCSs information and tell you what you need to do to make the arena work for your situation. Starting at the Bottom: The BaseThe base is important for a successful horse riding arena. Bottom line: You will never have a good arena without an adequate base. Your soil consultant will help determine your base requirements and if the soil will form a stable base. The base should be about six inches below the surface, if its a stable base. If it isnt stable, you might have to bring in some crushed stone to create a firm base, Malmgren says. You want the base to be firm because it will create a level surface for the footing above. The stone will have to be rolled when installed to create maximum hardness and evenness, and so it stays in place. Your topsoil might make a good base and you can put your footing right on top of it, but thats the exception rather than the rule. Soil situations are different for everyone. It can even be vastly different within the same locale. One neighbor might have clay soil while another has sand. Some areas of the country are subject to frost heave where the ground expands in the winter, causing rocks to come up to the surface. In the spring youll find rocks on the surface, and youll have to pick them up every year. The soil consultant will tell you if frost heave might occur in your area. If you have frost heave, extra heavy rolling at the time of construction will help keep your base in place. The NRCS may also give you this information at no charge.Creating a Drain for a Riding ArenaAnyone who has had training interrupted because of a flooded arena knows how frustrating it is. Sinking money into a horse arena that sits underwater part of the year is a waste. Your soil consultant can help you avoid drainage issues. He or she will first determine what your soil is like from the surface down to three feet deep. So perhaps youll have three feet of pure clay or maybe six inches of loam and then six inches of sand, followed by gravel. This is important to understand because you need to know how your soil handles water, Malmgren says. For instance, a gravel layer is going to hold some water where clay will not. If you have heavy rains, youll know how much water youre going to be able to store before you have problems. And then during construction, youll know how to work with that. If your soil doesnt drain well, dont give up on your dream arena. There are ways you can limit flooding. You can install a French drain, which carries water away from the arena. There are several ways to create this type of drain for each area of the country. The NRCS and your consultant can help with water drainage issues.You can also crown the arena, so that water drains off it. Or you can raise the whole arena above ground level.Whats Underfoot in a Riding Arena?Many types of footing additives are on the market, from shredded felt to crumb rubber to poly microfibers, but most footing recipes begin with sand. And any old sand wont do. You want sand that will bind and hold together. Sand comes in a variety of shapes; some is sharp and angular, and some is rounded. Sand performs in different ways depending upon its characteristics. It can be slippery if its round, like tiny ball bearings. The round grain will act like beach sand and be unsteady underfoot. It will be difficult to move through it, particularly if its dry. Sharp sand binds together to hold better, which is the preferred footing for arenas. Look at your sand grains with a hand magnifying glass if you want to get down to details, so you know what youre getting, Malmgren says. Finding quality sand can be a challenge. If you have neighbors who have an arena, ask them if they are happy with their sand and where they got it. If your neighbor has a good riding arena and soil similar to yours, then you know that type of sand at your home will work for you. Also, ask how many inches your neighbor used. Footing depth ranges from two to six inches, depending upon your land situation and discipline. (For example, dressage riders generally prefer a shallower footing while reiners like deeper footing.) However, always use less footing than you think you will need. Its easier to add more than to remove. Sand by itself works well, but you need to be careful when watering. Too much water can flood the arena, making it unworkable for a long time. Wet sand is harder than dry sand, but very dry sand can be inefficient and create a dust problem. Footing additives can help to improve cushion and improve traction. They also clump sand together better and prevent compaction. Some may help prevent freezing and cut down on trenching along the walls of the arena. Additives also create footing that requires less harrowing and watering. When choosing any additive, make sure that its manufactured for riding arenas. Sometimes people use arenas as dumping grounds for horse manure and shavings. Although it can hold water well, manure creates a health issue for both humans and horses. The shavings also break down quickly and create a slippery surface. Most arenas with heavy use will have a rut with half of the footing falling out of the arena. Pulling the footing back in the arena is a killer, Malmgren says. Boards installed around the arena will solve the problem, he advises. Untreated, unpainted lumber is best. I dont like using any chemicals in an arena. If horses are turned out, they can gnaw on the boards. The height of the board depends upon the nature of your footing. If its a lot of footing, youll need bigger boards. Its best to use higher boards because you may need to add more footing later on. Grass (turf) arenas are suitable under the right circumstances, depending on your annual rainfall and the type of grass. Bunch grass doesnt make good footing because soil is in between the plants, creating an uneven surface, Malmgren says.Key TakeawaysIn this article, youve learned about building a horse arena and the DIY aspects of creating a home arena, including proper planning, the importance of the base and footing, drainage solutions, footing materials, maintenance, and grass arenas.Read on for tips on arena maintenance so that youre prepared to maintain your home riding arena.This article about building a home riding arena originally appeared in the September 2007 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.The post How to Build a Riding Arena at Home appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Table of ContentsToggleWooden FencingHorse-Safe Wire FencingPVC FencingPipe FencingElectric Fencing for HorsesThere are so many details to think about when choosing a new boarding facility or when bringing your horses home, but some choices should be non-negotiable for the safety and well-being of your horses. Among these non-negotiable stipulations for your horse should be the type of fencing. Some fencing is simply not safe for horses under any circumstances; these include barbed wire and large, square mesh. Barbed wire can easily entrap a panicked horse that tries to run through it or jump over it, ripping hide and doing career- and life-ending damage to tendons and other internal structures it exposes. Fencing made of square mesh should ideally have openings of no more than 3 inches square; any larger and you risk trapping a hoof in the fence.If youre putting in fencing on your own horse property, there are quite a few factors that come into play during the decision-making process, including terrain, budget, aesthetics and maintenance. All fences should be between 4 and 5 feet tall (at minimum) to safely contain horses. The bottom part of the fence should be 6 to 8 inches off the ground, which will prevent foals from rolling out of the field (if you have them); it will also discourage horses from sticking their heads under the fence to graze. Some commonly used fencing options include:Wooden FencingWooden fencing.Photo by Leslie PotterHighly visible and strong, wood fences can be expensive to install and can require a lot of maintenance. Weather and horse teeth can take a toll on even the most well-constructed board fence, necessitating regular repair and replacement of boards.Horse-Safe Wire FencingV-mesh wire fencing with a wooden top board for visibility (foreground).Photo by Leslie Potter Woven wire is one of the more inexpensive options for horse fencing, though it is recommended that the visibility of this fence be improved by using a top board or electrified tape at the top. This will also discourage horses from leaning on the fence. V-mesh wire (also called no-climb fencing) is one of the safest fencing options out there. This type of fence has a diamond pattern that makes it as effective at keeping animals out as it is in keeping horses in. The downside is cost; it is the most expensive wire fence for horses. Smooth wire fences, though inexpensive to construct, are some of the most difficult fences for horses to see; because of this, smooth wire used for horse pastures is usually coated with white PVC and used with some sort of electric (either tape or a hot strand) to keep horses from leaning on it.PVC FencingPVC fencing.Photo by Leslie PotterWhile very visually pleasing, PVC fencing is extremely costly and is designed to break under pressure. Its a good idea to use some type of electric fencing in conjunction with PVC fence as horses will soon learn that the boards will give if leaned on.Pipe FencingPipe fencing. Photo by Stretch Clendennen/Adobe StockThough pipe steel fences are strong and durable, there is no give should a horse run into it. Transport and labor to install this type of fence can be high, and, once installed, modifications are difficult to make.Electric Fencing for HorsesElectric fencing (braided rope/wire).Photo by Leslie PotterElectric fencing can be used by itself or in conjunction with almost any other type of fence. Electric wire and tape are inexpensive, yet they increase the effectiveness and longevity of other fencing materials by preventing horses from leaning or chewing on them. It typically takes only one run-in with a charge to keep horses away from fencelines that are hot.No matter what type of horse fencing you choose, the safety of your equines should be your No. 1 priority. Further Reading: Seven Fencing Mistakes Fence Maintenance Fence Repair Checklist Caring for the Pasture Kept Horse What Type of Fencing is Best for Horses?The post 5 Best Types of Fencing for Horse Farms appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horse campers ride Surveyors Ridge Trail in Mt. Hood National Forest, Oregon. Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelI grew up camping, and I grew up with horses, but I never put the two together until I was in high school. Camping at a nearby state park, I noticed some horse corrals and water troughs and went to investigate. I could bring my horses camping with me? Sign me up!Table of ContentsToggleWhy Horse Camp?Where to Find Horse CampsHow to PrepareWhat to PackWe went back several times over the years with our horses in tow, and I also joined a local trail riding club and did a three-day ride up a nearby mountain range. If you love being in nature and riding on beautiful trails, then horse camping may be for you. We talked to three experts who share their advice.Why Horse Camp?Its a nice feeling to wake up next to your horse with the pines all around you, says Craig Ferdig of Prescott, Ariz. Ferdig is a national director for Back Country Horsemen of America, a nationwide organization committed to protecting equestrian access to public lands.Bonding around the campfire is a big part of the fun when horse camping. (Pictured at an Oregon Equestrian Trails campout, Ochoco National Forest.) Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelLocal chapters assist with trail maintenance and improvement projects, as well as offering education and hosting events. Ferdig and his wife have camped in numerous states in many ways, from camping in locations with corrals and water provided to dry camping in more remote areas.Theres something wonderful about going into the woods and spending several days with your horse just 10 feet away, says Kim McCarrel, vice president for public lands at Oregon Equestrian Trails and the author of five trail guides for the region. You can go riding every day and come back to camp and enjoy hanging out with your friends and horses. Its a fabulous experience. McCarrel camps eight to 10 times each year, and there are 14 horse camps within an hour and a half drive of her home in Bend, Ore.Kim McCarrel is vice president for public lands at Oregon Equestrian trails and lives within 90 minutes of 14 horse camps. Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelFellow Oregon Equestrian Trails and Back Country Horsemen of America member Marty DeVall of Oregon City, Ore., says there are around 70 horse camps in the state, most with corrals built by volunteers. DeVall is a devoted trail maintenance and website volunteer. He horse camped for many years and has enjoyed experiencing the different scenery and improving trails along the way.Where to Find Horse CampsThere are many ways to find regional horse camping locations. All our experts recommend joining local trail riding groups. Not only can you learn from veteran members, but they can give you the scoop on local campsites. These groups may even have directories available to members.Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelYou can also find horse camping by searching online. You can look at state park, national forest and national park websites. There are also national camping websites that allow you to search for horse camping.Keep in mind that amenities will vary. As a newbie, start with locations that provide corrals and running water. Sites can fill up fast, so make your reservations well in advance. As you get more experienced, you can consider camping at more remote locations, which require additional gear and preparation.How to PrepareIn order to enjoy yourself, its important to properly prepare. Your horse should be used to the sights and sounds of trail riding, but also things like tents and unusual encounters you may have along the way, from wildlife to fellow trail users.For example, people hike with goats and llamas, says DeVall. Ive experienced that firsthand. If youre out on trail and your horse hasnt seen a llama before, he may get very spooked. Try to take your horse through as many things as he might see in the wilderness where you are going. Riding with a more experienced horse generally helps a young horse.On the trail at an Oregon Equestrian Trails campout in Ochoco National Forest. Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelAt their local state park, DeVall and other equestrians helped create training stations where trail riders can go to practice obstacles that they may encounter on the trail, such as suspension bridges. There, they built a low bridge thats safe to practice on, as well as many other stations.Look for places locally that you can take your horse and work on training, he advises. You dont want to be thrown off out in the wilderness.Ferdig suggests setting up a tent at home.Setting up a tent can scare horses if they arent trained around them, he notes. Make sure the horse has confidence and doesnt spook at every sound.At home, you can work on desensitization exercises and building your horses confidence. For example, you can invite some children you know over to play outdoor games nearby.You can also practice walking through puddles, opening umbrellas, and letting flags and tarps blow in the wind. Just take things slow, always keeping safety in mind.If you join a trail riding or camping group, make sure your horse is comfortable riding with multiple other horses.If youre used to riding with one or two people, try to expand the number youre riding with to prepare for a group outing, says McCarrel. Also, make sure your horse gets a chance to experience being in the lead, the middle and the back. Make sure the people youre riding with have good trail manners and dont do things that can upset your horse, like running off without warning.If and when you transition to more primitive camping, you will need to train your horse to accept being tied to a highline.If youre going somewhere youll need to highline, I recommend you set up a highline in your barnyard and get your horse used to it, says McCarrel. Feed your horse dinner on the highline a couple of nights and let him get used to hanging out there. Also, it gives you practice setting up a highline. For a lot of people, setting up a highline is kind of mysterious, as it can sag.She recommends the website trailmeister.com, which not only helps you find horse camping, but also has resources such as step-by-step highline instructions.What to PackIf youve ever been camping before, you know the list of what to bring is quite extensive. Add horses to the mix, and your list doubles. McCarrel suggests creating a master checklist that you can add to and subtract from for each trip.DeVall notes that many camping locations require weed-free hay. This is to stop the spread of invasive species of plants. Check in advance if the location youre staying requires certified weed-free hay, which you can purchase from many feed stores.If youll be crossing state lines, make sure you know what paperwork (such as current health certificate and proof of a negative Coggins test) is required, and have it on hand.Also ensure theres a reliable water source for your horse or that youre bringing plenty of your own.We have a 75-gallon water tank that we take in the back of our truck as a backup, even if we know theres a water supply, says Ferdig.Horse campers Craig Ferdig and his wife enjoying Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah. Photo courtesy Craig FertigPlenty of food and water is important for you and your horse. Hay can help horses stay calm and warm, so bring extra.Also pack your usual tack, buckets, lead ropes, fly spray, bug spray, sunscreen, warm clothes and bedding for you, all-weather gear, a manure fork and muck bucket, any medications, a horse first-aid kit and a human first-aid kit.You can also locate area veterinarians in advance, in case of an emergency. If your horse tends to colic or has other health issues, check with your vet about what to bring and how to handle any issues that arise.Many horse-friendly camp sites have stall pens on site so you dont have to bring panels or highline your horse. Photo courtesy Kim McCarrelFor your rides, assemble a trail kit for your saddle bag with things like first-aid supplies, a map/compass/GPS, a rain poncho, water and a snack, a hoof pick, insect repellent, and other handy items like duct tape, a whistle, a small flashlight, matches, a pocketknife or multipurpose tool, and twine.Bring your phone (but keep it on your person in case you fall off), and ride with a buddy. If youll be outside of cell service range, its a good idea to have a satellite GPS emergency alert device.To help keep lands accessible to equestrians, its important to be a good steward of the natural areas you visit.Make sure you dispose of manure properly, says Ferdig. Leave no trace. In your campground, leave it as you found it. Clean up everything.If you find you love horse camping, consider volunteering to help maintain trails and add infrastructure, ensuring generations of equestrians can continue to enjoy this amazing pastime.This article about camping with horses appeared in the August 2023 issue of Horse Illustratedmagazine.Click here to subscribe!The post Camping with Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.