14 min read Last updated: January 2026 Horse planting at the same gateway, spinning for home, or refusing to hack solo? Youll learn a calm, UK-friendly plan to fix the causerule out pain first (in about 80% of cases) with vet, saddle and dental checksthen retrain forwardness step by step for safer, more confident rides. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Rule Out Pain What To Do: Book a veterinary exam, professional saddle fit and dental check before any retraining. Stop riding and seek vet advice if napping is sudden or escalating. Why It Matters: Pain drives around 80% of napping and must be treated for training to work. Common Mistake: Labelling the horse naughty and pushing on through discomfort. Area: Tack & Teeth Checks What To Do: Check saddle balance/clearance, girth comfort, bit height/width and noseband space; adjust or stop and call a fitter if anything rubs or pinches. Keep dental checks every 612 months and watch for quidding or head tilting. Why It Matters: Small fit issues quickly turn into I cant go forward under saddle. Common Mistake: Tightening nosebands or swapping bits without professional guidance. Area: Forward Retraining What To Do: Reset in-hand, then lunge/long-rein to pair a light cue and clear walk on voice; mount and reward the first step, building distance gradually. Use positive reinforcement and keep sessions short and calm. Why It Matters: Clarity and reward rebuild willingness and confidence to go forward. Common Mistake: Escalating pressure or punishing hesitation, which increases fear. Area: Manage Hack Triggers What To Do: Start in company on quiet routes and times; wear hi-vis, plan short familiar loops, and add mild challenges only when relaxed. If sticky, circle onto a small loop, ask for a few purposeful steps away, reward, then head home. Why It Matters: Reducing trigger stacking keeps arousal below threshold and prevents stops. Common Mistake: Forcing long solo hacks through traffic and wind before the horse is ready. Area: Rider Influence What To Do: Breathe out, soften your seat and hands, keep a steady calf, and use a neck strap if needed; practise brief in-hand walkhalt to settle both of you. If anxiety rises, dismount, lead past, remount and continue. Why It Matters: Horses mirror rider tension; calm, consistent aids signal safety and forward. Common Mistake: Gripping with the knee and clutching the reins at sticky spots. Area: Winter Comfort Care What To Do: Keep farrier visits regular, manage mud, and rug appropriately to keep muscles warm; extend warm-ups and check saddle fit after clipping or rug changes. Why It Matters: Cold, wet conditions and sore feet or backs make napping more likely. Common Mistake: Stretching farrier intervals and riding through stiffness on cold days. Area: Pain Ethogram Use What To Do: Use Sue Dysons Ridden Horse Pain Ethogram cues (e.g., persistent tail swish, head toss, mouth open) to decide when to pause training and call the vet. Video episodes and note patterns. Why It Matters: Objective signs and records speed accurate diagnosis and treatment. Common Mistake: Ignoring subtle early signs until behaviours escalate to spinning or rearing. Area: Call Qualified Pros What To Do: Contact your vet first; once pain is addressed, add a chartered physio and a qualified behaviourist for a stepwise plan. Share a toolkit: videos, when/where notes, recent tack/dental/farrier dates, and what helps. Why It Matters: A coordinated team fixes root causes and prevents recurrence. Common Mistake: Going it alone or hiring unqualified help without medical clearance. In This Guide What is napping and why it happens First step: rule out pain and poor fit Tack and teeth: quick checks you can do today Build forward confidence: a step-by-step retraining plan Hacking in the UK: manage triggers before they stack Rider influence: calm, consistent aids win Hooves, rugs and the seasons: keep winter lameness at bay When to call the vet, physio or behaviourist Your horse plants his feet, spins for home or grinds to a halt at the same gateway every time its frustrating, worrying and sometimes dangerous. The good news is that napping is solvable when you tackle the real cause, not the symptom.Key takeaway: In the UK, most napping starts with pain or fear not naughtiness so rule out discomfort first, then retrain calmly and consistently.What is napping and why it happensNapping is a refusal to go forward or leave a location, most commonly driven by pain (around 80% of cases) or anxiety, not stubbornness. It often starts with subtle signals and, if ignored, can escalate to spinning, bucking or rearing.Research and front-line behaviourists agree that pain is the biggest piece of the puzzle. In UK leisure horses, lameness affects 26% with older horses 4.23 times more likely to be affected and discomfort of any kind can show up as I wont go under saddle. Add in that 11% of UK recreational horses have handling problems and 9% show antisocial or abnormal oral behaviours linked to stress, and its easy to see how napping is usually a horse saying I cant or Im worried, not I wont. Among UK riders, hacking is the most common activity (69%), and its also where napping often appears thanks to separation anxiety, narrow lanes, traffic, hedge monsters, drain covers and farm animals on verges.About 80% of cases I see have pain as a contributing factor. There are often behavioural aspects as well... but pain is really common and its really under-recognised in horses. Dr Gemma Pearson, equine veterinary behaviourist (Horse & Hound)Subtle signs like hesitation, tail swishing, head tossing or an ear fixed on home can morph into backing up, planting, or spinning if the underlying issue isnt addressed. Our earlier guide outlines how these early whispers become shouts if missed (Just Horse Riders: Understanding and Overcoming Equine Napping).For prevalence, welfare and context, see the UK/Ireland study of recreational horses (PMC).First step: rule out pain and poor fitBecause pain is implicated in around 80% of napping cases, book a veterinary exam, saddle fit check and dental assessment before you try to train through it. Use an objective framework like Sue Dysons Ridden Horse Pain Ethogram to flag pain-related ridden behaviours.Start with your vet to investigate lameness, sore backs, sacroiliac discomfort, gastric issues or dental pain. The UK Animal Welfare Act 2006 places a legal duty on owners to address pain and discomfort promptly; if your horse started napping suddenly, treat it as a welfare red flag. Vets guided by BEVA standards will often perform an in-hand and ridden assessment and may recommend targeted diagnostics if subtle lameness is suspected a common scenario in older or seasonally stiff horses, particularly in cold, damp weather.Next, call a professional saddle fitter. Even a well-made saddle becomes uncomfortable with weight or muscle changes, or after months of heavy rug use compressing flocking. Bridles and bits that pinch or sit too low, or a noseband thats too tight, can turn a willing horse into a reluctant one the moment you pick up a contact. Dental checks are equally important; sharp enamel points or a wolf tooth can make every step feel punishing.Napping is often considered to be a behavioural problem, however pain must always be ruled out as a primary cause. Back pain, lameness, ill-fitting tack or teeth problems can all lead to an uncomfortable horse whose subtle signs of discomfort may have been overlooked. Jen, equine professional (Napping Q&A)Use the ridden pain ethogram indicators for example, repeated tail swishing, nose tilting beyond 10 degrees for five seconds or more, or an open mouth with teeth exposed for ten seconds as an evidence-based checklist to decide whether training should pause and the vet should step in (Horse & Hound).Tack and teeth: quick checks you can do todayIll-fitting tack and dental pain are common, fixable napping triggers; schedule regular checks and make small adjustments now while you wait for professional appointments. Comfort improvements often transform stuck into forward.Quick tack check list you can do today:Saddle balance: With your horse standing square, confirm the saddle sits level, with even contact and 23 fingers clearance at the wither. If it drops on landing or tips back in rising trot, stop riding and call your fitter.Girth comfort: Look for skin wrinkling, sores or galls behind the elbow. Swap to a shaped or elasticated girth only after professional advice.Bridle and bit: Ensure cheekpieces create 12 wrinkles, the bit is the correct width, and the noseband allows at least two fingers space. Check for rubs, head tossing or mouth opening under contact.Rug pressure: Winter rugs can alter saddle fit; recheck whenever you change rug weights or notice wither dips or trapezius tenderness.Dental routine: Book 612 monthly dental checks with your vet or a suitably qualified equine dental technician working under veterinary referral. Watch for quidding, head tilting, resistance to bridling, or unilateral bit chewing.Quick tip: A thorough post-ride groom is a welfare check as much as a shine-up run your hands under the saddle area, along the girth line and under the browband to catch heat, swelling or rubs before they become a no tomorrow.Build forward confidence: a step-by-step retraining planRetraining works best when you start in a low-pressure place (like an arena), reward every try, and teach go forward from light, consistent aids. Punishment increases fear and makes napping worse.Once youve cleared pain, rebuild your horses confidence and understanding step by step:Reset in-hand: Lead in a calm area. Stop, ask for one soft step forward from a light cue, then reward instantly with your voice, a scratch, or a small food reward. Repeat until one step = good things.Long-rein or lunge for go: Teach a clear verbal cue (e.g., walk on) paired with a light whip tap behind your leg position as a signal, not a punishment. Keep sessions short, forward and curved to prevent bracing.Mount up in the arena: Ask for one or two steps off a light leg, then halt and reward. Grow to a long side, then a full lap. Keep the rein soft and the neck long to avoid conflict.Introduce tiny hesitations on purpose: Ride towards a cone or pole, ask for forward, praise the try, ride away, repeat. The horse learns that pausing and then going earns release and reward.Generalise gently: Move from arena to a quiet track with a calm buddy. Practise forward past nothing special until it feels boring. Only then add mild spooks at a distance, like a wheelbarrow or a hi-vis jacket on a fence.Go solo last: Start very short out the yard, circle, home. Increase the distance by 50100 metres each time confidence holds.At each stage, use positive reinforcement. Many riders find that a pocket of small, low-sugar rewards helps mark the exact moment the horse chooses forward. For tidy, consistent rewards on the move, see our selection of tasty, rider-friendly training treats.Pro tip: If your horse halts and tenses, keep your body soft. Breathe out, widen your hands a touch for straightness, apply steady calf pressure, add a single clear tap with a schooling whip if needed, then reward the first forward thought. Dont escalate to repeated or harsh use it teaches fear, not forward.Hacking in the UK: manage triggers before they stackBecause 69% of UK leisure horses hack, manage fear triggers proactively: go out in company first, pick quiet routes and times, and stay highly visible and well-protected. Reducing trigger stacking prevents the hesitation that becomes napping.UK hacks combine narrow lanes, blind bends, tractors, flapping bags in hedges, sheep popping out of gateways and drain covers that look like portals to another dimension. In wet and windy spells, the arousal dial is already high; adding separation from the herd can tip a horse over threshold. Start with a steady nanny horse, then wean off company later, keeping solo loops short and familiar.Plan your route and timing. Choose off-peak hours, avoid high-wind days for first solo hacks, and let drivers see you early with certified hi-vis. Our customers often tell us that being clearly seen boosts their confidence as much as their horses. Kit up with high-visibility rider gear and a properly fitted, up-to-standard riding helmet on every ride. Good, grippy riding boots also help you keep a secure, quiet lower leg if your horse hesitates or sidesteps at a hedge monster.When flies are lively in summer, many horses show tail swishing and head tossing that can feed into napping-like resistance. Minimising irritation with appropriate fly protection and a comfortable noseband setting can keep the arousal dial lower before you even leave the yard.Quick tip: If your horse starts to nap towards home, circle onto a small loop where you can ride a few purposeful steps away, then reward and return. Youre not battling home-sickness; youre teaching forward answers feel safe. Riding with a BHS-qualified instructor for a few accompanied hacks can shortcut this learning.Rider influence: calm, consistent aids winTense riders can trigger or worsen napping; soften your seat and hands, breathe, and keep aids clear and consistent. A couple of lessons with a BHS-qualified coach can reset your timing and your horses trust.Horses are social, synchronised animals; they mirror the arousal of their handlers. If you lock your hips, grip with the knee or clutch the reins as you approach a sticky spot, your horse reads danger and brakes. Swap that pattern for: exhale, lengthen your thigh, let your hands follow the neck, and apply a steady, supportive leg. If you need a confidence anchor, ride with a neck strap and practise moving it up the neck to encourage a soft, forward outline.Groundwork helps riders too. Ten minutes of in-hand walk on and halt with clear markers (count three steps, halt, reward) rehearses the leadership youll use in the saddle. If you feel anxiety building, hop off, lead past, remount and carry on calmly thats smart horsemanship, not defeat.Hooves, rugs and the seasons: keep winter lameness at bayWinter mud, cold and abrupt ground changes increase lameness risk, so keep farrier visits regular and rug appropriately to reduce discomfort-driven napping. Older horses are particularly vulnerable to stiffness and arthritic aches in cold, damp conditions.The UKs long, wet winters are tough on joints and hooves. Slipping in gateways, soft soles, lost shoes and thrushy frogs can all turn forward into no thanks. Under the Farriers Registration Act, use a registered farrier and stick to an interval agreed for your horse; dont stretch appointments when mud is deepest. Pair good hoof care with appropriate rugging to keep back and hindquarter muscles warm and willing. For wet, windy turnout, consider medium-weight, breathable, waterproof options from our range of durable turnout rugs. On cold stable nights, layer sensibly with stable rugs that maintain warmth without pressure on the withers or shoulders.Older horses (and remember, 96% of UK leisure horses are over five) are 4.23 times more likely to show lameness in studies, and many carry low-grade arthritis that flares in winter. Regular physiotherapy check-ins can help, and some owners add joint-supporting nutrition. Explore our carefully selected supplements to support comfort alongside vet-advised management. Keep sessions shorter and warm up longer in the cold: 1015 minutes of active walk and easy bending before asking for more.Pro tip: Check saddle fit again after clipping and as rugs change through autumn and winter small shifts in shape can create pressure points that show up as stickiness on the first hack after a cold snap.When to call the vet, physio or behaviouristCall your vet first if napping is sudden, escalating, or accompanied by ridden pain signs; bring in a chartered physiotherapist and a qualified behaviourist once pain is addressed. Video the behaviour and keep a log to speed up diagnosis.If your usually willing horse slams on the brakes, spins for home or starts tail swishing and head tossing under saddle out of the blue, prioritise a veterinary assessment. Use the Ridden Horse Pain Ethogram prompts to describe what you see and when it happens. Once your vet has treated or ruled out pain, a chartered physio can help restore comfortable movement patterns, and a qualified behaviourist (for example, those working with UK charities like The Horse Trust) can structure a confidence-based training plan.Look for some of these things in your horse [from Sue Dysons Ridden Horse Pain Ethogram] and if theyre occurring, particularly when they go to nap, that might indicate we need to get the vets to look at the horse before we even start to look at the behavioural aspects. Dr Gemma Pearson (Horse & Hound)At Just Horse Riders, we recommend you assemble a simple napping toolkit: a short video clip, a note of when/where it occurs, tack fit dates, dental/farrier/physio history, and what helps or worsens it. This gives your vet and professional team everything they need to help, fast.Practical kit checklistSmall kit upgrades that improve comfort, clarity and visibility can make a big difference to a nappy horses confidence and yours.Be seen and predictable: Certified hi-vis for riders and a properly fitted helmet.Secure lower leg: Supportive, grippy riding boots to keep aids steady and quiet.Comfort in all weathers: Weatherproof, breathable turnout rugs and cosy stable rugs to keep muscles warm and willing.Motivation that matters: Pocket-friendly training treats for clear, positive reinforcement.Support around the edges: Thoughtful supplements as part of a vet-advised comfort plan, especially for older horses in winter.Remember: kit should support your training, not replace it. Clear, consistent handling and a pain-free horse are always the foundation.FAQsHow do I know if my horses napping is pain or behaviour?Start from the evidence: pain contributes to around 80% of napping cases. Book a vet exam, a professional saddle fit and a dental check first, and use Sue Dysons Ridden Horse Pain Ethogram cues (e.g., persistent tail swishing, head tossing) to guide you. Only when pain is ruled out should you focus on behaviour-only retraining (Horse & Hound).Why does my horse nap when hacking alone but is fine in company?Separation anxiety is common; horses are herd animals and leaving friends can feel unsafe. UK hacks also add stressors like traffic, hedge movement and drain covers. Start in company, then build short, positive solo loops out, circle, home increasing distance as confidence grows (Your Horse).Can my own nerves cause or worsen napping?Yes. Tension in your seat and hands tells your horse be cautious, which can trigger a stop. Practise breathing and softening your posture, use a neck strap, and consider a few sessions with a BHS-qualified instructor to reset your cues and timing.Napping started suddenly what should I check first?Treat sudden napping as a welfare flag. Call your vet to check for pain or lameness (noting that 26% of UK leisure horses show lameness, especially older horses), review saddle and bridle fit after any weight or workload change, and book a dental check. Then, once cleared, rebuild confidence in a controlled environment (PMC study).Is punishment or a big smack effective for napping?No. Punishment increases fear and trigger stacking, making future stops more likely and more explosive. Instead, stay calm, apply a clear, steady leg and, if needed, a single light tap as a signal then reward the first forward step. Positive reinforcement builds willingness faster than force.How common is lameness in horses that nap?In the UK leisure population, 26% experience lameness, and pain is implicated in roughly 80% of napping cases. Older horses are 4.23 times more likely to be lame, particularly in winter conditions a major reason to investigate discomfort before labelling a horse naughty (PMC).Whats one thing I can do this week to reduce napping on hacks?Pick a quiet, familiar loop and go out with a steady buddy. Wear full hi-vis, choose off-peak times, and rehearse forward for two steps, reward at each known sticky spot. End while its going well and keep solo loops very short at first. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Hi-Vis GearShop Riding HelmetsShop Riding BootsShop Horse TreatsShop Turnout Rugs

Welcome to Horse Illustrateds weekly installment of the Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, offered in partnership with the ASPCAs Right Horse program. This weeks adoptable horse is Ghostly Vision! Check back weekly for a new featured horse so you can find your Right Horse.Photo courtesy Second Chance ThoroughbredsAdoptable Horse: Ghostly Vision, a 16-year-old, 15.2hh Thoroughbred geldingOrganization: Second Chance Thoroughbreds, Spencer, N.Y.Get to Know Adoptable Horse Ghostly VisionGhost is a 16-year-old Thoroughbred gelding. Ghost was adopted in 2014, 2015 and 2017 (yes, he was returned every timeno fault to him). He has been at the same boarding farm since 2017, but unfortunately his adopters circumstances changed; she sold him to someone else in the barn with the intention the new buyer would sign our adoption contract. However, the new buyer didnt like Ghost and wanted us to buy him back, which we obliged. Ghost has always been a great riding horse; he has plenty of trail experience and ring work. Ghost is a sweet boy and he definitely will make the right person very happy.Contact Second Chance Thoroughbreds today about ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, Ghostly Vision!Photo courtesy Second Chance ThoroughbredsASPCA Right HorseASPCA Right Horse is the online adoption platform of The Right Horse Initiative, a collection of equine industry and welfare professionals and advocates working together to improve the lives of horses in transition. A program of the ASPCA, their goal is to massively increase horse adoption in the United States. To find more adoptable horses and foster horses, visit www.myrighthorse.org. To learn more about The Right Horse, a program of the ASPCA, visit www.aspcarighthorse.org.The post ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week: Ghostly Vision appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 Bringing your horse home from livery feels excitingand a bit overwhelming. This 14-day plan shows you exactly how to move smoothly and stay compliant: collect the passport and insurance, mirror yard-style turnout (e.g., 4-hour winter caps), and set up welfare checks and test-led parasite control for stress-free settling. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Documents & Records What To Do: Collect passport, insurance, vaccination proof and registration; photograph pages and store secure digital copies. Build a yard file with ID, contacts, feed chart and a whiteboard for turnout, worming and farrier dates. Why It Matters: Ensures legal compliance and quick access during emergencies, vet or farrier visits. Common Mistake: Leaving the passport behind or failing to back up documents. Area: Turnout Planning What To Do: Mirror yard routineswinter turnout max ~4 hours on poor ground, summer day turnout 6am7pm or log night turnout; rotate paddocks and provide clean water and shelter. Adjust rugs to weather, not the calendar. Why It Matters: Maintains routine, protects fields and supports health and behaviour. Common Mistake: Allowing unlimited winter turnout on damaged ground or overrugging. Area: Field & Shelter What To Do: Walk fences, fix hazards, set up safe troughs, and ensure natural or field shelter access for longer sessions. Reinforce gateways and water points with hardcore or grass mats. Why It Matters: Prevents injuries and poaching while keeping access and water areas safe. Common Mistake: Ignoring hightraffic mud traps and loose or unsafe fencing. Area: Welfare & Rules What To Do: Follow BRC/Showing welfare codes; keep sensory whiskers intact unless vetdispensed and use correctly fitted, unmodified tack. Do daily checks with a complete grooming kit. Why It Matters: Keeps you competitioncompliant and safeguards comfort and safety. Common Mistake: Clipping whiskers or using modified tack that fails inspection. Area: Tack Audit & Fit What To Do: Clean and inspect all tack; check stitching and fit of bridles, bits, nosebands, martingales and saddles; repair or retire anything suspect. Keep a separate competitionready legal kit. Why It Matters: Prevents injury, accidents and show eliminations due to faulty or illegal gear. Common Mistake: Retaining homemade modifications or worn kit in daily use. Area: Parasite Control What To Do: Run a vetled, testbased programme (FECs and targeted dosing); poopick twice weekly, rest fields, and quarantine/test newcomers. Record all dates, results and treatments. Why It Matters: Limits resistance, protects herd health and avoids unnecessary wormers. Common Mistake: Blanket worming on a fixed calendar without testing. Area: Insurance & Licensing What To Do: Confirm cover for keeping at home, visitors, hacking and transport; add public liability if clients visit. Check if Riding Establishments licensing applies and set visitor rules with a signin book. Why It Matters: Protects you legally and financially as your yard activities change. Common Mistake: Assuming previous livery insurance still covers you at home. Area: TwoWeek Plan What To Do: Follow a 14day checklistbook transport, collect/photograph docs, prep fields and shelter, build records, stock feed/forage and first aid, schedule vet/farrier, audit tack, ready rugs, and pack the lorry logically. Log turnout times from day one. Why It Matters: A clear timeline prevents gaps that risk welfare, compliance or delays. Common Mistake: Leaving purchases, repairs and packing until move day. In This Guide What leaving a livery yard really means The records to collect before you go Turnout routines you should copy at home Welfare standards to keep when you leave livery Keep parasite control on track Licences, insurance and tax if you run a home yard Your two-week move-home plan Kit that makes home yard life easier Bringing a horse home from livery can be liberating and a little daunting. With the right plan, youll keep welfare standards high, stay compliant, and make the move seamless for you and your horse.Key takeaway: Leaving livery shifts every daily decision to you get your documents, turnout plan, welfare checks and parasite control in order before you load the lorry.What leaving a livery yard really meansAt a livery yard, your horse is housed and cared for in return for payment, but you remain the legal owner and may share care duties depending on the livery type. When you leave, you take full responsibility for all daily management, compliance and welfare decisions. The UK definition is clear on roles at GOV.UK, and many yards also require owners to follow written rules on turnout, records and welfare while the horse is on site.Think of the move as a transfer of systems, not just location. Everything your yard quietly handled turnout timings, worming protocols, record-keeping, field management, tack checks and safety rules now needs replicating at home. The good news: with a short, focused checklist, you can bring these standards with you.The records to collect before you goBefore you move home, you must obtain up-to-date horse registration details, insurance, vaccination records and the passport from your livery yard files. Many UK yards explicitly require these documents on site at all times, so ensure you collect copies and originals prior to departure (Chelmsford Equestrian Centre rules).Why this matters:Insurance continuity: your liability and vet cover shouldnt lapse mid-move. Confirm renewal dates and any transport or yard-change notifications required by your insurer.Vaccination compliance: competition entries, riding club activities and some yards require current flu/tetanus records and you may be asked for them during vet visits.Passport control: it must travel with the horse. Keep it accessible but protected (a simple waterproof holder or document wallet in your tack room works well).Quick tip: Photograph every page of your passport, insurance schedule and latest vaccination entry. Store digital copies in your phone and a shared folder so your vet or farrier can access them quickly if needed.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend building a simple yard file with your horses ID, emergency contacts, feed chart, medication log and turnout schedule. Keep it next to a whiteboard or clipboard where youll record turnout times, worming dates and shoeing cycles.Turnout routines you should copy at homeIn winter, UK livery yards typically limit turnout to a maximum of 4 hours between daybreak and sunset; in summer, day turnout often runs 6am7pm and night turnout must be logged from before sunset to 9am for security. Replicating these time frames helps protect fields, herd health and your horses routine (Chelmsford Equestrian Centre rules).How to apply this at home:Winter: Cap turnout to 4 hours in poor ground conditions, rotating paddocks and providing forage in a mud-free area. A robust rug strategy keeps horses comfortable without over-rugging choose insulated winter turnout rugs matched to weather and coat, and have a lighter option ready for mild spells.Summer: If you use night turnout, keep a yard book where you log turnout times and paddock use for safety and biosecurity. Consider fly management: add a breathable fly rug during the day and rotate fields to reduce insect pressure.Shelter: If turnout exceeds a couple of hours in mixed weather, ensure natural or field shelter access, and provide water in safe, regularly cleaned troughs.Stabling: Bring horses in if weather turns severe or underfoot conditions deteriorate; have appropriate stable rugs ready for colder nights.Pro tip: Field gates and water points are high-traffic, high-wear zones lay down hardcore or grass mats to keep these areas safe and prevent poaching.Our customers often pair a hard-wearing rug from WeatherBeeta with a lighter backup for changeable British days, then adjust layers based on wind, rain and temperature rather than the calendar.Welfare standards to keep when you leave liveryUK equestrian bodies require horse welfare to come first, prohibit clipping sensory hairs, and insist on correctly fitted, unmodified tack. These standards continue to apply when you manage your horse at home and if you plan to keep competing.It is vitally important for the future of equine sport that the welfare of the horse is always the primary consideration... Every rider, coach and club official must accept responsibility to uphold the highest level of horse welfare. British Riding Clubs (BRC), part of the British Horse Society (BRC Handbook)Clipped or shaven sensory hairs around the mouth, nose, eyes and inner ear are not permitted as this may reduce the horses sensory ability. BRC (BRC Handbook)Tack must always be designed and fitted correctly and used in a way that protects and safeguards the welfare and safety of both horse and exhibitor. Tack that has been modified is not permissible. The Showing Council (Unified Welfare Rules)What to do at home:Tack audit: Check fit, condition and legality of bridles, bits, nosebands and martingales. Remove any homemade modifications.Grooming for welfare: Daily checks help spot rubs, skin changes and weight shifts. Keep a tidy, functional grooming kit to support this routine.Leg protection: Fit boots that dont spin or rub and remove them after work to avoid heat build-up. Explore our horse boots and bandages for work, turnout and travel.Rider safety: If youll hack from home, maintain robust personal safety standards too a properly fitted, up-to-standard riding helmet is non-negotiable.If you continue competing under BRC or affiliated showing rules, double-check your turnout against the latest handbooks before vet checks or tack inspections. This includes leaving whiskers intact unless a vet has given written dispensation.Keep parasite control on trackEvery livery yard should operate a parasite control process, and you must continue this at home with veterinary guidance to prevent anthelmintic resistance (GOV.UK).Build a simple, evidence-based plan:Test-led approach: Work with your vet to schedule faecal egg counts during the grazing season and target treatment appropriately.Pasture hygiene: Poo-pick small paddocks at least twice weekly, rest fields when possible, and avoid overstocking.Herd rules: If other horses visit or you take on a companion, quarantine, test and align their parasite plan before turnout together.Record everything: Keep dates, results and treatments in your yard file to avoid missed windows or repeat dosing.Support overall gut health with consistent forage, controlled changes to diet and, where appropriate, targeted nutritional support from our range of horse care supplements. For specific products or worming schedules, always follow veterinary advice.Licences, insurance and tax if you run a home yardYou do not need a general licence to keep your own horse at home or to offer basic livery, but a local authority licence is required under the Riding Establishments Act 1970 if you provide riding instruction or hire out horses. If you start taking liveries commercially, align your business admin and insurance from day one.Key UK requirements and good practice:Licensing: If you intend to teach or hire out horses, contact your local council about licensing obligations under the Riding Establishments Act (see our overview in the Just Horse Riders guide to the UK livery yard shortage and 14-day plan).Insurance: Secure public liability cover if you have visitors, helpers or paying clients on site; check your policy if you hack from home, transport horses, or host clinics.Records and rules: Children under 14 should not be on a yard unsupervised; keep a visitors book and display emergency contacts (CEEC rules).Making Tax Digital: From April 2026, sole traders running livery services with income over 50,000 must keep digital records and submit quarterly updates to HMRC under MTD for ITSA (Yard Owner Hub).Whether you manage one horse or expand to a small home yard, good documentation, sensible yard rules and the right insurance will protect you, your animals and your visitors.Your two-week move-home planA 14-day checklist keeps you on track, reduces stress and ensures nothing critical gets missed. Heres a proven timeline you can adopt immediately.Days 12: Confirm your move date, transport, and collection of all documents (passport, insurance, vaccines). Photograph everything. Share your new postcode with your vet and farrier.Days 34: Walk your fields; repair fencing; set up water; plan paddock rotations. If youll exceed a couple of hours turnout, ensure shelter access. Order weather-appropriate turnout rugs and a spare liner so you can adapt quickly to UK weather swings.Days 56: Build your yard file and whiteboard. Print a turnout log, worming/testing calendar, farrier schedule and emergency contacts. Stock your first-aid kit and a practical grooming kit (thermometer, digital scale for feed, hoof pick with brush, skin-friendly wash).Days 78: Arrange feed and forage deliveries; label bins clearly. Schedule your vet to advise on a test-based parasite plan and to set vaccination reminders. If you plan to hack from home, review helmet fit and standards update if needed from our riding helmets range.Days 910: Tack audit: clean, check stitching, and assess fit. Retire or repair anything suspect. Ensure no modified items remain; welfare rules require correctly designed and fitted gear.Days 1112: Prepare stabling: safe tying points, clear walkways, rubber matting secure, lighting functional. Lay out stable rugs for the first nights and have a lightweight layer handy for warmer evenings.Day 13: Pack the lorry with a labelled system: travel boots, spare headcollar, water, hay net, paperwork. Confirm turnout group or solo turnout plan for the first week at home.Day 14 (Move day): Unload calmly, allow a quiet graze or hand-walk, then stable for a check-over. Introduce turnout in short, predictable blocks and log times from day one.Pro tip: Keep a small problem-solver box by the gate spare lead rope, gloves, torch, pliers, baler twine. It pays for itself the first time a clip or gate catch fails in the rain.Kit that makes home yard life easierTo match livery-level organisation at home, prioritise weather protection, safe storage and daily efficiency. The right kit saves time and supports welfare.Rugs for British weather: A core and a spare from a trusted brand will see you through most weeks. Explore durable options in turnout rugs for wet days and switch to stable rugs overnight as temperatures drop.All-weather reliability: Consider proven brands like WeatherBeeta for fit, fill choices and robust hardware that stands up to UK winter squalls.Leg and travel protection: Keep a set of horse boots and bandages ready for schooling, turnout in muddy conditions, and transport.Daily care essentials: A tidy, complete grooming collection turns checks into a habit skin, eyes, feet and body condition at a glance.Nutrition support: If your horse is changing workload or grazing, consider targeted support from our supplements for horse care and review diet with your vet or nutritionist.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend keeping a simple tack-storage system: labelled bridle hooks, a rack for clean numnahs, and a competition-ready bag for legal, unmodified show tack and documents. It keeps everyday gear separate from competition kit, so nothing accidental sneaks into the ring.FAQsDo I need to provide the livery yard with my horses insurance and vaccination records?Yes. Livery yards require up-to-date registration, insurance and vaccination records to be held on site; collect copies before you leave to avoid any gaps in compliance (Chelmsford Equestrian Centre rules).What are typical turnout times I should follow at home?Use the common yard standards as your template: summer day turnout 6am7pm, night turnout before sunset to 9am (log it for safety), and in winter limit turnout to a maximum of 4 hours between daybreak and sunset to protect fields and equine health (CEEC rules).Is a licence required to run a home livery yard?No general licence is needed for basic livery, but a local authority licence is mandatory if you offer riding instruction or hire out horses under the Riding Establishments Act 1970 (see our summary in the Just Horse Riders 14-day plan).What welfare rules apply if I keep competing after leaving livery?Follow BRC/BHS and showing welfare codes: welfare first, no clipping of sensory hairs without veterinary dispensation, and only use correctly fitted, unmodified tack (BRC Handbook; The Showing Council).How do I continue parasite control when my horse comes home?Adopt a yard-style parasite control process: schedule test-led checks with your vet, target any treatments, and record everything to prevent resistance (GOV.UK).What should I check in my tack before my first show from home?Ensure all tack is legal, correctly fitted and unmodified, remove any non-standard training aids before vet checks, and arrive with clean, functional gear. Consider upgrading worn items during your pre-move tack audit.Can children under 14 be on my yard?Not unless supervised by an appropriate adult, in line with common UK yard safety rules; maintain clear visitor policies and emergency contacts on display (CEEC rules).Ready to bring your horse home? Start with your document pack, set your turnout and welfare routines, and stock the few key items that keep you winter-proof and competition-ready. If you need help choosing rugs, care kit or safety essentials, our team is here to advise and our curated ranges of turnout rugs, stable rugs, WeatherBeeta rugs, grooming essentials, boots and bandages, helmets and supplements make ticking off your checklist fast and reliable. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop Grooming KitShop Boots & BandagesShop Riding Helmets

Each year, the BETA Business Awards shine a spotlight on the very best in the equestrian retail industry. Vote for Redpost EquestrianWhat Are the BETA Business Awards?Why the BETA Business Awards MatterRedpost Equestrian and the BETA Business AwardsVote for Redpost EquestrianEvery nomination is a testament to the hard work of our team and the support of our customers. We are incredibly grateful to be part of such a passionate and knowledgeable equestrian community, one which we strive to serve with passion, expertise and care.For the Online/ Mail Order Retailer of the Year, click hereFor the Retailer of the Year Equestrian Store, click hereCustomer nominations play a crucial part in the awards process. If you have enjoyed your shopping experience with Redpost and would like to support us, you can make your nomination here:What Are the BETA Business Awards?The BETA Business Awards recognise outstanding businesses across a range of retail categories, from customer service and merchandising to online retail performance and in-store experience.Held annually, the awards bring together retailers, brands and industry professionals from across the UK and beyond to celebrate those who go the extra mile for their customers.Why the BETA Business Awards MatterThe BETA Business Awards are particularly meaningful because they are judged by industry experts and supported by customer feedback. They focus not only on commercial success, but on the importance of exceptional service, product knowledge and community engagement.For customers, the awards provide reassurance that the businesses acknowledged are committed to high standards and responsible retailing. This enables consumers to feel confident that they are supporting businesses that they can trust.Redpost Equestrian and the BETA Business AwardsRedpost Equestrian receiving their Online Retailer of the Year Award, 2025.See Our Awards History HereOver the years, Redpost Equestrian has been honoured to receive recognition at the BETA Business Awards. These accolades reflect the dedication of our team and the loyalty of our customers, both in store and online.You can nominate us for the following categories: Online / Mail Order Retailer of the YearEquestrian Store of the YearOur vision is to be synonymous with equestrianism supporting our community in getting the very most from their pursuits, whatever their stage or ambition.Being recognised at industry level reinforces our commitment to quality, service and expertise, while motivating us to continue raising the bar.#WinItWednesdayBETA Feed Fact Fortnight, Spring 2026: Support and Advice for the Season AheadEquestrian Equipment Rules & Regulations: A Practical GuideRedpost Rider: Cameron BeerRedpost Rider: Harry MeadeEquilibrium Massage Therapy: Supporting Equine Comfort & PerformanceThe post BETA 2026 Business Awards first appeared on Redpost Equestrian Blog.

9 min read Last updated: January 2026 Chasing your first clean, straight flying change without tension? This guide shows you when youre ready, which rider aids to use, and the first stepsstarting from crisp canterwalkcanter with five even walk stepsso you can ride reliable changes and avoid late or 'dirty' ones. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Readiness Check What To Do: Confirm crisp canterwalkcanter with five even walk steps, then gradually reduce them. Only ask when the canter is collected, uphill and bouncy. Why It Matters: Solid basics prevent tension and late or dirty changes. Common Mistake: Asking with trot steps or from a flat, four-beat canter. Area: Rider Position What To Do: Keep a quiet core and following hips; maintain elastic hands. Place the new outside leg slightly behind the girth and keep the inside leg at the girth. Why It Matters: Independent, stable aids keep the horse relaxed and the message clear. Common Mistake: Bracing hands or throwing shoulders, which blocks the inside shoulder and confuses the aid. Area: Build Collection What To Do: Use frequent half halts to shorten and lift the canter without losing jump, then ride positively away. Keep the canter quick behind, not rushed. Why It Matters: Collected, round strides create airtime for a clean change. Common Mistake: Over-collecting to a slow, flat canter that kills jump. Area: Key Exercises What To Do: School counter canter, shoulder-in, travers evolving to half-pass, and frequent simple changes. Aim for straightness, engagement and lift. Why It Matters: These build balance, hindquarter strength and freedom of the shoulders. Common Mistake: Skipping lateral work and just drilling flying changes. Area: First Change Setup What To Do: On a diagonal, ride three prep stridescollect, balance, askthen change bend with seat and legs; optionally use a single pole. Ride away straight and forward after. Why It Matters: Clear preparation on a straight line makes the question easy to answer. Common Mistake: Pulling the head for a fake bend or chasing when the change is missed. Area: Timing & Aids What To Do: Slide the new outside leg back as the leading foreleg leaves the ground and keep hands soft. Maintain a quick, active hind leg. Why It Matters: Correct timing produces clean, through changes without tension. Common Mistake: Kicking late or holding the front end, causing late-behind or crooked changes. Area: Troubleshoot Changes What To Do: For late-behind, add shoulder-in on a circle then travers; for crookedness, ride shallow counter canter and straight lanes; for tension, refresh simple changes from the seat. Why It Matters: Targeted fixes address causes, not symptoms. Common Mistake: Masking issues by kicking more or repeating messy changes. Area: Smart Warm-up What To Do: In cold or wet weather, extend walk, add suppling trot work, then canter only when the back swings; cool down fully and rug appropriately. Why It Matters: Warm, relaxed muscles and routine improve collection, comfort and learning. Common Mistake: Rushing to collect in the cold or skipping the cool-down and rug change. In This Guide When is your horse ready for flying changes? What rider skills and position set you up for success? Build the foundations: exercises that make changes easy How to introduce the first flying change Fixing dirty changes: straightness, timing and tension Train smart in UK weather: warm-ups, cool-downs and routine Helpful kit for cleaner changes (without over-aiding) Bringing it all together Your first clean, straight flying change feels like magic but it isnt a trick. Its the result of rock-solid basics, a collected, expressive canter, and rider timing you can trust even on a windy British winters day.Key takeaway: Youre ready to school flying changes when simple canter/walk/canter transitions are crisp and balanced, and your horse can maintain a collected, uphill canter with round, off-the-ground strides.When is your horse ready for flying changes?Your horse is ready when it produces clear canter/walk/canter simple changes with even walk steps and prompt strike-offs, and can stay in a collected, expressive canter. This foundation prevents tension and late or dirty changes.Dressage master Nuno Oliveiras standard still holds true today:When the horse executes the transitions from canter to walk calmly and strikes off equally well anywhere in the arena, he is ready for the flying changes.That simple change must be correct downward transitions to walk without trot steps, and upward transitions that are quick off your leg without rushing. This is echoed in modern guidance from Horse & Hound and Eurodressage. Quality of canter matters as much as the transition: a collected canter with big, round, bouncy strides gives your horse time in the air to change legs. A flat or four-beat canter makes clean changes far less likely.Quick tip: Count one, two, three, walk one to school five even, balanced walk steps between canters before you gradually reduce them. Prioritise light aids and smooth transitions coming from behind.What rider skills and position set you up for success?A balanced seat, independent hands, and calm body control are non-negotiable for clear aids and security. If your upper body wobbles or your hands fix your horses neck, youll scramble the message.As wehorse notes, riders need stability thats independent of the reins so the horse can stay relaxed over the back and through the poll. The British Horse Societys staged approach also underlines effective position and welfare-first preparation as riders progress to advanced work (see BHS Stage 1 standards). Focus on:Quiet core and hips that follow the canter, not drive it.Stable, elastic hands that dont block the inside shoulder or bend change.Clear leg position: outside leg slightly behind the girth to indicate the new lead, inside leg at the girth to maintain jump and bend.Pro tip: If you struggle to keep your seat secure as you collect, invest in well-fitting, grippy breeches. Our riders love the feel and stability of modern silicone-seat options in our womens jodhpurs & breeches range, and never compromise on safety with properly fitted riding helmets.Build the foundations: exercises that make changes easyUse counter canter, shoulder-in, travers evolving to half-pass, frequent simple changes, and collecting half halts to improve canter quality and engagement. These exercises lift the shoulders, sit the hindquarters, and create the airtime changes require.From Horse & Hound and wehorse training plans, prioritise:Counter canter to prove straightness and balance on the new lead without changing.Shoulder-in (including on a circle) to free the shoulders and mobilise the ribcage.Travers and then half-pass to build hindquarter engagement and lateral suppleness.Simple changes: shorten the canter with half halts, transition to five balanced walk steps, then strike off promptly; reduce the walk steps only once theyre even and relaxed.Classical guidance (as cited on Eurodressage) is unequivocal:The most important thing in preparing for the changes is getting the canter/walk walk/canter transitions perfect!Try walk figure-eights before canter: at the centre, quietly shift your hip towards the new circle direction and allow the front end to follow for a soft change of bend. Build this feel at walk, then trot, before canter (see this useful visual from YouTube).How to introduce the first flying changeStart from a high-quality, collected canter and ride your first changes on a diagonal or between two circles; a single ground pole or cavaletti helps the horse use airtime to reorganise the legs. Keep the canter quick behind but not rushed.Step-by-step:Warm up until the back feels loose and the canter feels springy. In cold, wet UK weather, take longer to get the muscles warm before asking for collection.On the diagonal, establish a straight, bouncy canter. Use a collecting half halt three to five strides before the change to bring the withers up and the hind legs under.Change the bend with your seat and inside leg; move your new outside leg slightly behind the girth as the leading foreleg leaves the ground. Keep hands elastic no pulling the head for a fake bend.If using a pole or cavaletti (typically 20100 sets), time your aid as the horse lifts over it to capitalise on suspension.Stay forward thinking. If the change doesnt happen, ride a clear canterwalkcanter and try again later. Dont chase or kick; clarity beats force.As emphasised by Horse & Hound and Eurodressage, your simple changes must be quick, light, and correct before you reduce the walk steps and ask in the canter. Keep your outside leg quietly back during the reduction so the aid picture remains consistent.Quick tip: Count three quality canter strides of preparation collect, balance, ask and then ride away positively after the change so your horse stays straight and in front of the leg.Fixing dirty changes: straightness, timing and tensionMost problem changes stem from poor canter quality, back or poll tension, or unclear timing. Fix the canter first, then refine the aid picture and preparation.As one expert explained on Eurodressage:In the lower classes it is often a lack of experience of the horse and/or of the rider. Quite often, within the test, the horses are not well prepared for the flying change. For example the quality of the canter is not good enough, the horse is tense in the back or in the poll. Alternatively the rider can give the aid in an incorrect manner.Correct common issues with targeted schooling:Late behind or four-time canter: Improve jump with shoulder-in on a circle, then ride travers to sit the quarters. Keep the canter collected yet active; avoid long, flat strides.Crossing or swinging quarters: Use counter canter on shallow lines and ride the change on a line with rails (imaginary or between poles) to maintain straightness.Head-tossing or bracing: Revisit simple changes, ensuring the downward is from the seat and leg, not the hand. Reward softness; tension kills clean timing.Pilot error: Stabilise your upper body. Dont throw your shoulders into the new direction, and keep your new inside hand soft to allow the bend through the neck and shoulder.Pro tip: Reward progress to build confidence, but only repeat and bank the feeling of a clean, straight change. If quality deteriorates, go back to simple changes and collection work. Clean basics today mean reliable tempis tomorrow.Train smart in UK weather: warm-ups, cool-downs and routineIn cold or wet UK conditions, extend your warm-up before canter work and cool down gradually, rugging appropriately to protect muscles and welfare. Consistent routines support relaxation and learning.The BHS stresses progressive warm-ups and good stable management for safety and welfare. On winter days, walk longer, add suppling lateral work in trot, then pick up canter only when the back swings. After schooling, allow relaxed walking until the breathing settles, then rug as needed in line with BHS guidance (BHS Caring for Your Horse).At Just Horse Riders, we recommend planning for the forecast:Use appropriately weighted winter turnout rugs for the field, and change into breathable stable rugs after work to prevent chills.On short, rainy days, make the most of indoor-school sessions to keep your programme consistent, adjusting gradually across seasons as per BHS welfare guidance.Post-ride checks catch rubs and strains early a well-stocked grooming kit makes it easy to run hands over muscles and legs as you cool down.Quick tip: Dont skip collection work just because its cold. You still need a round, engaged canter for successful changes take the time to warm up correctly, then ask.Helpful kit for cleaner changes (without over-aiding)Use simple, precise tools to clarify the aids and protect your horse while strength develops. The goal is better communication, never stronger pressure.Dressage whip: A light tap can reinforce the forward reaction to the new outside leg, but avoid chasing into the change. Precision beats exaggeration.Lunging training aids or pessoa-type systems: Used correctly, these build topline and balance so the canter has enough jump before you add rider coordination.Ground poles/cavaletti (20100): A single pole on the diagonal helps create suspension and focus without over-complicating the question.Leg protection: Support the limbs as you add collection and lateral work with breathable horse boots & bandages.Rider comfort and safety: Grippy womens breeches enhance stability, and certified riding helmets are essential for schooling sessions.Reliable rugs: Keep muscles warm to maintain suppleness with trusted brands such as Weatherbeeta rugs.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend keeping your training aids minimal and your standards high: if the canter gets flat, step back to collection exercises rather than pushing for a change.Bringing it all togetherMake simple changes effortless, build a springy, collected canter, then introduce your first changes over a clear line poles optional with quiet, precise aids. If quality slips, return to the basics and protect your horses confidence. With patience and good preparation, those clean changes will arrive and stick.FAQsWhen is my horse ready to start flying changes?When it performs clear canterwalkcanter simple changes with balanced walk steps and prompt, calm strike-offs, and can hold a collected, expressive canter thats off the ground. This standard is supported by classical guidance and modern advice from Horse & Hound.What rider skills matter most for clean changes?A balanced seat with independent hands and clear body control, so your aids are precise without tension. See the rider focus outlined by wehorse and the BHSs staged standards for safe, effective riding.How do I fix late-behind or dirty changes?Improve the canter quality first: collect with half halts, ride shoulder-in and travers to engage the hindquarters, and check straightness with counter canter. Many issues come from poor preparation or incorrect aid timing (Eurodressage).Should I praise every attempt, even if its messy?Reward progress to build confidence, but only reinforce and repeat clean, straight changes. If the quality drops, return to simple changes and collection work before trying again (Eurodressage).Can I use poles to help the first changes?Yes a single ground pole or cavaletti on the diagonal can give useful airtime for the leg rearrangement. Keep the canter collected and the aids light, as advised by wehorse.Does UK weather affect training flying changes?Absolutely. Cold, wet conditions require longer, progressive warm-ups and careful cool-downs, followed by appropriate rugging in line with BHS care guidance and consistent routines throughout the year.Whats a good weekly plan for introducing changes?Prioritise quality over quantity. Most horses progress best with regular work on collection, lateral exercises, and simple changes, interspersed with light days and hacks to keep backs loose. If a session unravels, end on a correct simple change and try flying changes another day. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Boots & BandagesShop Jodhpurs & BreechesShop Riding HelmetsShop Turnout RugsShop Stable Rugs

Horse Illustrated is proud to once again be a media partner of Road to the Horse, and will be on-site during the colt-starting championship March 19-22, 2026 at the Kentucky Horse Parks Alltech Arena. As the magazine dedicated to people who love horses, Horse Illustrated finds that its partnership with Road to the Horsean event focused on forming a relationship with the horseis a perfect match.Attendees are invited to visit the Horse Illustrated booth in the concourse to participate in giveaways, shop exclusive merchandise, and take advantage of special subscription offers. There will also be an opportunity to pre-order Best of Horse Illustrated, the special collectors issue celebrating the magazines 50th anniversary.Horse Illustrated is proud to continue its partnership with Road to the Horse, said Digital Manager Mary Cage. Our audience is passionate about this event and the relationship-building that takes place between the competing horsemen and their colts.With world-class horsemen and colts from the legendary Pitchfork Ranch, Road to the Horse 2026 is sure to delight spectators. Horse Illustrated is thrilled to be a part of the excitement and looks forward to connecting with fellow equine enthusiasts.If youre unable to attend Road to the Horse, stay tuned to Horse Illustrated socials (@horseillustrated) for live updates and horseillustrated.com for a recap of the event. Press ReleaseThe post Horse Illustrated Returns as Media Partner and Booth Vendor at Road to the Horse 2026 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo: Haylie Pfeffer/The HorseEquine orthobiologics are therapies derived from the horses own tissues, such as blood, and are designed to reduce inflammation and support tissue repair. Common options include platelet-rich plasma (PRP), interleukin-1 receptor antagonist protein (IRAP) or autologous conditioned serum, autologous protein solution (APS), and mesenchymal stem cells, which veterinarians might inject to treat conditions such as osteoarthritis and soft-tissue injuries. Register forthis livewebcastto learn more about equineorthobiologicoptions and how veterinarians can use them.Register NowThis webcast begins on Monday, March 23, 2026 at 8:00 p.m. EDT. Days Hours MinutesAbout the Experts: Lauren Schnabel, DVM, PhD, Dipl. ACVS, ACVSMRLauren Schnabel, DVM, PhD, Dipl. ACVS, ACVSMR, is a professor of equine orthopedic surgery at North Carolina State University, in Raleigh. Her specific clinical and research interests are in the use of regenerative therapies for the treatment of musculoskeletal injuries and in the rehabilitation of elite athletes. Schnabel has performed and published studies on wound healing in the horse and continues to evaluate new therapies for wound healing in her clinical practice.Greg Schmid, DVMGreg Schmid, DVM, originally from Canada, moved to Ohio as a teenager, where his family trained dressage and eventing horses. He earned a Bachelor of Science in equine science from Otterbein University, in Westerville, Ohio, and a DVM from The Ohio State University, in Columbus. After graduation, Schmid completed an internship at B.W. Furlong & Associates, in Oldwick, New Jersey, and then worked with Dr. John Doc Steele in a hunter/jumper-focused practice covering the East Coast. He later practiced in Portland, Oregon, working with various English and Western sport horses. Schmid joined Dechra as an equine professional services veterinarian in September 2020 and now lives in Asheville, North Carolina.

We assess animal welfare by measuring stress hormones, counting behaviours, and checking for disease. But what's missing is a way to evaluate these data from the animals' lived experience. A new framework the teleonome offers a biological north star for welfare science, grounded in each species' own evolutionary logic.The post Whats it like to be a bat? Scientists develop new solution to the puzzle of animal minds appeared first on Horses and People.

A pair of donkeys who had been repeatedly straying from their unsecured field onto a road near Pershore have been rehomed by The Donkey Sanctuary.The donkeys, who were named Grapefruit and Elderflower by the charity, had posed a risk to themselves and other road users for several weeks and West Mercia Police were frequently being called to manage traffic and return them to their field.The Donkey Sanctuary provided advice to the police during this time before arrangements were made for staff from the charity to visit the location in Worcestershire on Monday 23 February to assess the donkeys welfare.Ahead of the visit, Hannah Bryer, head of welfare at The Donkey Sanctuary, made contact with the owners of the donkeys who agreed itwas in the donkeys best interest to come into the care of The Donkey Sanctuary, and with their consent, arrangements were made to collect the donkeys during the visit.Grapefruit and Elderflower during the rescue.ILCE-7RM5 f/9 1/200s 25mm ISO1000Teamwork The team from The Donkey Sanctuary was joined by a World Horse Welfare Field Officer, who brought along some handling pens, and four police officers to secure the field and create a safe handling and loading area for the donkeys.The donkeys were initially nervous of new people but after several hours they were caught and fitted with headcollars. They were given time to relax before being checked by a vet and embarking on the journey to The Donkey Sanctuarys new arrivals unit in Sidmouth.As many local residents will know, two donkeys had been frequently escaping from their home, which created a significant demand on policing due to the need for repeated officer attendance, said a spokesperson from West Mercia Police.It was agreed that the donkeys could be moved to The Donkey Sanctuary in Sidmouth. Although that may sound simple these two donkeys are true escape artists!After a few hours of teamwork and patience, both donkeys were safely secured and transported to their new home at The Donkey Sanctuary. A huge thank you to The Donkey Sanctuary for their incredible help, advice, and support over the past month. This outcome truly would not have been possible without them.The donkeys in their new home in Sidmouth.Pushing the boundariesBoth Grapefruit, who is grey, and Elderflower, who is skewbald, are settling in well to their new home in Devon.Donkeys are naturally curious animals who enjoy interacting with their environment and will naturally browse hedgerows and other shrubs, said Hannah.Whilst opportunities to perform this natural behaviour is incredibly beneficial to their wellbeing, donkeys can find their way through narrow gaps in hedgerows and fences so its really important that owners provide a safe environment and check the boundary to their fields are secure.Images The Donkey Sanctuary.The post Escapee donkeys rehomed by donkey charity appeared first on Your Horse.

12 min read Last updated: January 2026 Unsure which dressage saddle will pass BD/BE checks and keep your horse happy under saddle? This warm, rule-by-rule guide shows you how to choose a traditional English/continental model in black or brown and fit it to LANeq210achieving 35 fingers gullet and 4 fingers wither clearancefor comfort, welfare and performance. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Legal Saddle Choice What To Do: Choose an English or continental-style saddle in black or brown (grey/navy permitted). Avoid obvious suede and anything non-traditional; check BD/BE class rules before you buy. Why It Matters: Keeps you competition-legal and maximises versatility and resale. Common Mistake: Turning up with brightly coloured, Western-style or suede-finished tack that fails tack check. Area: LANeq210 Clearances What To Do: Set 35 fingers of gullet clearance from pommel to cantle and at least 4 fingers over the withers; verify ungirthed, girthed and mounted. Run your hand through the channel to confirm no pinching. Why It Matters: Protects the spine and withers, safeguarding welfare and performance. Common Mistake: Measuring only at the front or unmounted, missing rear channel pinch. Area: Correct Placement What To Do: Place slightly forward, slide back until it parks behind the shoulder at the natural stop. Do not force it over the scapula. Why It Matters: Preserves shoulder freedom and correct panel contact. Common Mistake: Parking the saddle too far forward, blocking the shoulder. Area: Mounted Balance Check What To Do: With a rider up, confirm 4 fingers wither clearance and free hand-through channel; ensure the cantle sits slightly higher than the pommel. Aim for a relaxed thigh on the block and ~3 fingers between seat and cantle. Why It Matters: Balanced contact prevents pressure points and stabilises sitting trot. Common Mistake: Skipping the ridden check and riding a saddle that tips or rocks. Area: Girthing & Billets What To Do: Use a drop girth that sits roughly 5 inches behind the elbow; align billets to your horses sternum shape to stop creep. Recheck for rubs after work. Why It Matters: Maintains shoulder freedom and prevents elbow sores. Common Mistake: Letting the girth sit in the elbow, causing rubs and shortened stride. Area: Treed vs Treeless What To Do: Choose a well-fitted treed saddle for dressage/eventing; ensure a traditional look for BE. Avoid treeless for sustained schooling or jumping unless fully assessed. Why It Matters: Treed designs distribute weight and stirrup load more evenly. Common Mistake: Using treeless where stirrup pressure creates hotspots and risks elimination. Area: Pads & Shims What To Do: Fit the base saddle first with no corrective pads; add only a thin, rule-compliant pad after fitter approval for minor tweaks. Reverify LANeq210 after any pad change. Why It Matters: Pads can hide faults and invalidate clearance checks. Common Mistake: Stacking pads to fix a narrow tree or poor panel contact. Area: Seasonal Refit & Care What To Do: Book checks in autumn and post-winter; expect wool flock to settle up to inch and top up if needed. Clean/condition leather, inspect billets and girth elastics. Why It Matters: UK weather and condition changes alter fit over time. Common Mistake: Ignoring fit drift after lay-off, rugging or flock settling. In This Guide What saddles are legal in UK dressage and eventing? The UK fitting standard that protects your horse: LANeq210 How to fit a dressage saddle step-by-step (the UK way) Treed vs treeless: what the UK evidence says Common UK fitting mistakes to avoid (and quick fixes) Colour, style and resale: what actually matters in the UK Care, checks and UK weather-proofing your dressage setup UK rule anchors and when to recheck Your dressage saddle is judged twice: once by the steward and again by your horses back. The right choice keeps you competition-legal and keeps your horse comfortable, elastic and able to work.Key takeaway: For UK dressage and eventing, choose an English or continental-style saddle in black or brown, then fit it to LANeq210 with 35 fingers of gullet clearance and at least 4 fingers of wither clearance (checked ungirthed, girthed and mounted) to protect welfare and performance.What saddles are legal in UK dressage and eventing?English or continental-style saddles in black, brown, grey or navy are permitted; brightly coloured, Western-style and most suede seats/flaps are not legal in UK national rules. British Eventing accepts only traditional-looking saddles, and treeless options are discouraged due to pressure concerns.Under British Dressage and British Eventing guidance, your saddle must present as traditional English/continental, and the permitted colours are explicitly black, brown, grey or navy. Brightly coloured saddles and Western styles are out, and suede is generally non-compliant unless its an unobtrusive, matching-colour gel cover to improve grip without altering appearance. See the rules overview from Equine World UK for BD-style saddlery requirements, and the BE-focused discussion with handbook citations and physio input on Horse & Hound.At Just Horse Riders, we advise riders who compete across BD and BE to choose black or brown for maximum versatility and resale appeal. If youre updating the rest of your show turnout, our curated womens competition clothing and approved riding helmets make it easy to stay rule-compliant from top to toe.The UK fitting standard that protects your horse: LANeq210LANeq210 (current 2017) requires 35 fingers of gullet clearance front-to-back and at least 4 fingers of wither clearance, verified ungirthed, girthed and mounted. These measurements prevent spinal pressure and are enforced in spirit by BHS/BRC welfare rules.The UK national occupational standard LANeq210 defines how a saddle must clear the spine and withers to protect the back. After correct placement, you should be able to run your hand through the gullet from pommel to cantle without pinching, and see at least four fingers over the withers even under a rider. Our detailed guide to these measurements is here: Saddle Fit for Horse & Rider: Key UK Measurements. This aligns with practical UK fitting advice and wider guidance such as Dovers English saddle fitting guidelines, which note typical 24 fingers of wither clearance allowing for panel compression.35 fingers [of gullet clearance], ALL THE WAY from front to back... If you cant run your hand comfortably from pommel to cantle beneath the panels without pinching at the back, the channel is too narrow.The British Horse Society and British Riding Clubs prohibit incorrectly fitted tack in competition as a welfare risk, and advise seasonal checks because UK horses change shape with weather and work. See the 2024 BRC Handbook for welfare context: BRC Handbook 2024.Quick tip: Wool-flocked panels can bed in by up to inch; set your wither and gullet clearances knowing the flock will settle slightly in the first weeks.How to fit a dressage saddle step-by-step (the UK way)Set the saddle behind the shoulder at its natural stop, then verify LANeq210 clearances and foreaft balance before you girth and mount. The correct dressage balance has a slightly higher cantle than pommel to support a stable sitting trot.Position. Stand your horse square on level ground. Place the saddle slightly forward and slide it back until it parks behind the scapula at the natural stop. Do not force it forward over the shoulder.Initial clearances (ungirthed). Check the gullet width and channel: you need 35 fingers of daylight from pommel to cantle, with no pinching under your hand anywhere along the spine. Over the withers, look for at least four fingers of vertical clearance.Girthing. Dressage saddles often use a drop girth system that positions the girth approximately 5 inches behind the elbow to free the shoulder and reduce rubbing in collected work and wet UK conditions. This is a key design feature explained by Horse & Country TV.Mounted check. With a rider up, re-check at least four fingers over the withers and confirm your hand still glides through the channel from front to back without contact.Balance and rider position. In a dressage saddle, the cantle usually sits higher than the pommel to stabilise sitting trot. Your thigh should rest naturally on the block without forcing your knee up, you want about three fingers between your seat and the cantle, and the top of your boot should sit roughly 5 cm below the skirt to keep your lower leg long and free for lateral work.Panel and shoulder freedom. Ensure no bridging (daylight in the middle under the panels), no rocking, and no panel pressure on the top of the shoulder. The saddle should not tip forward or back as you change paces.Reassess after work. Recheck sweat patterns (even, not patchy), behaviour (no tail swishing, ear-pinning in transitions), and look for early warning signs like hair rubs or white hairs over the back.Pro tip: Skip corrective pads during first fit. Pads can hide faults and invalidate your LANeq210 checks. Add pads only after a correct base fit is confirmed by an SMS-qualified fitter.Treed vs treeless: what the UK evidence saysTreed saddles distribute weight and stirrup pressure more evenly, while treeless designs can create concentrated pressure points under the stirrups and are not recommended for event horses. BE allows only traditional-looking saddles, and many UK physios report issues in treeless for jumping and sustained dressage work.Across UK eventing circles, experienced riders and equine physiotherapists have flagged focused pressure under the stirrup bars in treeless saddlesexactly where pressure must be diffused during sitting trot, lateral work and transitions. One experienced eventer summarised both rules and physio findings:English or Continental style saddles are mandatory, and are to be brown, black, grey or navy. Brightly coloured saddles are not permitted... Treeless saddles [risk] huge pressure points... physios found issues in all event horses ridden in treeless saddles.Read the discussion with references to the BE Handbook here: Horse & Hound forum. While some treeless models can look traditional, the core welfare aim under UK standards remains the same: protect the spine with adequate channel width and stable front-to-back balance, and verify clearances mounted.Common UK fitting mistakes to avoid (and quick fixes)The most damaging errors are narrow channels, inadequate wither clearance, masking poor fit with pads, and girthing too close to the elbow. Avoiding these faults preserves your horses back and keeps you BD/BE-legal.Narrow channels on wide UK warmbloods. If you cant pass your hand through the gullet all the way from pommel to cantle, the channel is too narrow and will press the dorsal spinous processes. Choose panels and trees designed for broader backs and confirm 35 fingers end-to-end.Insufficient wither clearance. You need at least four fingers mounted. Remember wool flocking may compress by up to inch; set initial clearance accordingly and recheck after the first few rides.Using pads to fix fit. Pads are not a substitute for tree and panel conformity. Fit first, then add a thin, rule-compliant pad if needed for grip or minute balance refinements.Elbow rubs and shoulder restriction. A correct drop girth sits roughly 5 inches behind the elbow; if the girth creeps forward, you can see rubs and shortened stride. Check billet alignment and girth design specific to your horses sternum shape.Seasonal fit drift. UK horses often lose topline and gain coat in autumnwinter, then muscle up in spring. Book a seasonal refit, especially after weeks in heavier winter turnout rugs or a change to stable routine.Slippery suede in the rain. Suede-look finishes can become slick in British weather and are often non-compliant in competition unless an unobtrusive, colour-matched gel saver is used. Opt for traditional leather and, if needed, a discreet grip cover.Under BHS/BRC rules, tack that risks discomfort or lameness is not allowed in competitionmake this your everyday standard too. If youre schooling intensively, support legs and joints with correctly fitted horse boots and bandages, and build back health with steady, progressive work and appropriate conditioning.Colour, style and resale: what actually matters in the UKBlack and brown are the safest choices for UK competition, with black typically reselling faster thanks to broader eligibility across BD/BE and a more universal match to modern tack. Grey and navy are permitted but are more niche.For most riders, black ticks every box: its BD/BE-legal, pairs with the majority of boots and bridles, and commands stronger second-hand demand. Brown remains popular in continental-styled saddles and traditional yards but can be more venue- and discipline-specific. Whichever you choose, document your fit and maintenance to maximise resale:Keep a dated SMS fitters report or invoice confirming LANeq210 checks and any flocking work.Record flocking status (e.g., wool-flocked, settled inch) and tree width.Photograph wither and gullet clearances girthed and mounted.Present the saddle clean, conditioned and scratch-free.Quick tip: If you need extra grip without breaking rules, choose an unobtrusive gel seat saver that matches saddle colour. Brands like LeMieux offer discreet, competition-friendly solutions.Updating your show kit? Balance your silhouette with long, clean lines: pair your saddle with properly fitted long boots and close-contact breeches. Explore horse riding boots and our best-selling womens jodhpurs & breeches to fine-tune your position without bulk.Care, checks and UK weather-proofing your dressage setupRecheck fit seasonallyespecially after winterand maintain leather, flocking and girthing so LANeq210 clearances stay true over time. UK cold and damp can shrink topline and alter how your saddle sits.Build a simple calendar:Autumn refit: As the weather turns, topline often reduces with fewer daylight hours and more rugging. Confirm wither clearance remains four fingers mounted and that the gullet still gives 35 fingers front-to-back.Post-winter check: After weeks in heavier rugs, recheck balance as your horse returns to full work. A minor flock top-up can prevent pressure points as muscle rebuilds.Spring service: Leather deep-clean and condition, billet inspection and girth elastic check. Replace tired girths and check the drop girth alignment for elbow clearance.Before competition: Verify rules compliance on colour and style, and take a quick photo of clearances for your records.Use quality care products and regular grooming to protect leather and your horses skin. Our grooming range helps keep sweat and dirt off panels and girths, extending leather life, while weather-ready brands like WeatherBeeta support comfort under saddle with reliable rugs for turnout and stable time. If youre bargain-hunting for accessories or replacement girths, check our rotating offers in The Secret Tack Room clearance.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend working with an SMS-qualified saddle fitter and following LANeq210 exactly: an unbalanced saddle tips the riders weight back and can worsen stiffness, hollowing and irregular steps. Youll feel the difference immediately in transitions and lengthenings.UK rule anchors and when to recheckFollow BD/BE colour and style limits, apply LANeq210 clearances, and book seasonal refitsespecially post-winterto remain welfare-first and competition-ready. If your horses back or way of going changes, recheck immediately.Use this quick rule-and-refit rhythm:Before buying: Confirm English/continental build and black or brown for widest eligibility (Equine World UK).At fitting: Achieve 35 fingers of gullet clearance end-to-end and 4 fingers of wither clearance, ungirthed, girthed and mounted (LANeq210 guidance).In work: Reassess after flock settles ~ inch and after any training or condition change (Dover guidelines).Before competing: Ensure your saddle remains traditional-looking; treeless models are discouraged and may breach BE expectations (Horse & Hound forum).Welfare check: Remember BHS/BRC prohibit ill-fitting tack; poor fit risks lameness and elimination (BRC Handbook 2024).Round this off with appropriate clothing for the days weather and work so you can sit correctly: our breathable, competition-ready competition clothing and practical turnout rugs keep horse and rider comfortable when the British weather turns.FAQsIs black or brown better for UK dressage and resale?Both are legal, but black typically resells faster in the UK because it matches more tack and is favoured across BD and BE. Brown suits certain continental styles and traditional setupschoose based on your overall kit and target buyers.Does suede make a saddle unusable in UK competitions?Generally yes if its obvious or brightly coloured. Only unobtrusive, colour-matched gel seat savers are acceptable; suede flaps or seats that alter the traditional look are commonly disallowed under national rules.What exact clearances should I aim for on a dressage saddle?Follow LANeq210: 35 fingers of gullet clearance the full length from pommel to cantle, and at least 4 fingers over the witherschecked ungirthed, girthed and mounted.Are treeless saddles OK for dressage?BE permits only traditional-looking saddles, and UK physio feedback suggests treeless designs can create stirrup pressure points. For dressage and eventing, a well-fitted treed saddle is the safer welfare and performance choice.How often should I recheck fit in the UK climate?Seasonally as a rule of thumbespecially post-winterplus after any change in work, condition or behaviour. Expect wool flock to settle by up to inch in the first weeks, then stabilise.What balance should a dressage saddle have?The cantle should sit slightly higher than the pommel for a stable sitting trot, with your thigh lying softly on the block and 3 fingers between seat and cantle.Can I compete side saddle in dressage?BD allows side saddle in certain contexts if all bitting and saddlery rules are met. Always check the latest class-specific rules before entering.If youd like help selecting a rule-compliant saddle setupor youre refreshing your show wardrobe for the seasonexplore our rider essentials from riding boots to breeches, and keep an eye on The Secret Tack Room for smart savings. Above all, fit to LANeq210, recheck with the seasons, and let your horses movement be your final judge. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Competition WearShop Riding HelmetsShop Jodhpurs & BreechesShop Riding BootsShop Boots & Bandages