One horse at a private facility in Santa Rosa County, Florida, has tested positive for strangles, and two horses have been exposed. No horses have left or arrived at the premises within the past 21 days.EDCC Health Watch is an Equine Network marketing program that utilizes information from the Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) to create and disseminate verified equine disease reports. TheEDCCis an independent nonprofit organization that is supported by industry donations in order to provide open access to infectious disease information.About StranglesStranglesin horses is an infection caused byStreptococcus equisubspeciesequiand spread through direct contact with other equids or contaminated surfaces. Horses that arent showing clinical signs can harbor and spread the bacteria, and recovered horses remain contagious for at least six weeks, with the potential to cause outbreaks long-term.Infected horses can exhibit a variety of clinical signs:FeverSwollen and/or abscessed lymph nodesNasal dischargeCoughing or wheezingMuscle swellingDifficulty swallowingVeterinarians diagnose horses using polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing with either a nasal swab, wash, or an abscess sample, and they treat most cases based on clinical signs, implementing antibiotics for severe cases. Overuse of antibiotics can prevent an infected horse from developing immunity. Most horses make a full recovery in three to four weeks.A vaccine is available but not always effective. Biosecurity measures of quarantining new horses at a facility and maintaining high standards of hygiene and disinfecting surfaces can helplower the risk of outbreakorcontain one when it occurs.

Photo: iStockVitamin E and selenium play complementary roles in equine immune health, functioning as key antioxidants that help protect cells from oxidative stress and support normal immune responses. Because requirements vary by diet, geography, and workloadand excess selenium can be harmfulhorse owners should work with a veterinarian or nutritionist to evaluate forage and select appropriately dosed, research-supported sources. In this Ask TheHorse Live Excerpt, Frank Andrews, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM, of Louisiana State University, in Baton Rouge, describes the role of vitamin E and selenium in equine immune health.This podcast is an excerpt of ourAsk TheHorse Live Q&A, Choosing the Right Supplement for Your Horse. Listen to thefull recording here.About the Experts: Frank M. Andrews, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM (LAIM)Frank M. Andrews, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM (LAIM), is a graduate of Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine in Pullman, where he received a DVM and MS. After a year in private veterinary practice, he completed an equine medicine and surgery residency at The Ohio State University, in Columbus. After 20 years on the faculty at the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine, in Knoxville, he is currently LVMA Equine Committee professor and director of Equine Health and Sports Performance at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine (LSU Vet Med), in Baton Rouge. Andrews has clinical and research interests in gastric ulcers and gastrointestinal disease, and he's completed research on the efficacy of pharmacologic agents in the treatment of gastric ulcers in horses. Andrews is actively involved in clinical equine practice and clinical research.

Two horses in Texas have tested positive for equine infectious anemia (EIA), including one horse in Wilson County and one in Fort Bend County. Hold orders were placed on the affected properties on Dec. 4 and 8, respectively. Both horses have been euthanized.EDCC Health Watch is an Equine Network marketing program that utilizes information from the Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) to create and disseminate verified equine disease reports. TheEDCCis an independent nonprofit organization that is supported by industry donations in order to provide open access to infectious disease information.About EIAEquine infectious anemiais a viral disease that attacks horses immune systems. The virus is transmitted through the exchange of body fluids from an infected to an uninfected animal, often by blood-feeding insects such as horseflies. It can also be transmitted through the use of blood-contaminated instruments or needles.ACoggins test screens horses blood for antibodiesthat are indicative of the presence of the EIA virus. Most U.S. states require horses to have proof of a negative Coggins test to travel across state lines.Once an animal is infected with EIA, it is infected for life and can be a reservoir for the spread of disease. Not all horses show signs of disease,but those that do can exhibit:Progressive body condition loss;Muscle weakness;Poor stamina;Fever;Depression; andAnemia.EIA has no vaccine and no cure. A horse diagnosed with the disease dies, is euthanized, or must be placed under extremely strict quarantine conditions (at least 200 yards away from unaffected equids) for the rest of his life.

One horse in Kitsap County, Washington, has tested positive for equine herpesvirus-4 (EHV-4), the respiratory form of the disease. The horse developed minor upper respiratory signs and is now under veterinary care. It had recently attended a local riding club event.EDCC Health Watch is an Equine Network marketing program that utilizes information from the Equine Disease Communication Center (EDCC) to create and disseminate verified equine disease reports. TheEDCCis an independent nonprofit organization that is supported by industry donations in order to provide open access to infectious disease information.EHV 101Herpesvirus is highly contagious among horses and can cause a variety of ailments in equids, including rhinopneumonitis (a respiratory disease usually found in young horses), abortion in broodmares, and EHM.In many horses, the first or only sign of EHV-1 infection is fever, which can go undetected.In addition to fever, other common signs of EHV-1 infection in young horses include cough, decreased appetite, depression, and a nasal discharge. Pregnant mares typically show no signs of infection before they abort, and abortions usually occur late in gestation (around eight months) but can be earlier. Abortions can occur anywhere from two weeks to several months following infection with EHV-1.Horses with EHM usually have a fever at the onset of the disease and might show signs of a respiratory infection. A few days later, neurologic signs such as ataxia (incoordination), weakness or paralysis of the fore- and hind limbs, urine retention and dribbling, loss of tail tone, and recumbency (inability to rise) develop.Herpesvirus is easily spread by nose-to-nose or close contact with an infectious horse; sharing contaminated equipment including bits, buckets, and towels; or clothing, hands, or equipment of people who have recently had contact with an infectious horse.Routine biosecurity measures, including hygiene and basic cleaning and disinfection practices, should be in place at all times to help prevent disease spread.Current EHV-1 vaccines might reduce viral shedding but are not protective against the neurologic form of the disease. Implementing routine biosecurity practices is the best way to minimize viral spread, and the best method of disease control is disease prevention.

Redwings Horse Sanctuary has launched a new animal welfare pledge alongside the University of East Anglia (UEA), to honour the legacy of Anna Sewell, the author of Black Beauty.TheBlack Beauty Pledgeis inspired by the Bands of Mercy, an organisation established during Annas lifetime, to promote kindness to animals, especially amongst children.The Bands of Mercy groups were incredibly popular in their day, said Nicola Knight, Redwings Head of Communications and Campaigns. They had a similar promise that we wanted to reinstate for the modern times.The idea is that the pledge, to promise to treat all animals as you would like to be treated if you were that animal, gets us thinking about what a particular animal needs to be happy and healthy.We hope that by signing up to theBlack Beauty Pledgechildren and young people especially will be motivated to take action to be kind to animals.Band of Mercy. Photograph, c.1890. Collection of the National Museum of Animals & SocietyEveryone who signs up on the Redwings website will receive a certificate and key ring, saying they have made the pledge. In addition, those who go on to show the charity what they have done for animals will also receive a prize of sweets by local producer Sweet Smiles of Norfolk, a copy of their Black Beauty book and a collectable Schleich horse. They will also be featured on a special gallery of people who have done something positive for animal welfare on the charitys website.Redwings are the custodians ofAnna Sewell Housein Great Yarmouth, Norfolk, where Anna was born. Two years ago, they collaborated with the UEA on a special fundraising edition of Black Beauty (which can be purchased here) and have been working together to further Annas legacy since then.We are so excited to launch theBlack Beauty Pledge, two years on from the publication of our special edition of Black Beauty, our first collaboration with Redwings, to raise funds for them, said Professor Thomas Ruys Smith, Professor of American Literature and Culture at the UEA.We hope this will inspire everyone who signs up to think about the welfare of the animals in their life, and those they encounter, and consider their behaviour towards them with that animals welfare in mind.Anna Sewell wrote Black Beauty at a time when horses were relied upon in many aspects of peoples lives, not as a work of fiction but as a tool she hoped would change hearts and minds and lead to improvements in their welfare. We want to honour her legacy through this Pledge.To find out more and sign up to the Black Beauty Pledge please go tothe the Redwings website.Related contentBeware autumn laminitis: expert advice to keep your horse safe this seasonLaminitis in horses: essential guide for every ownerInsulin resistance in horses explainedThe post Redwings launches animal welfare pledge in honour of Black Beauty appeared first on Your Horse.

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 Battling a woolly cob coat and heavy feather that bog down lightweight trimmers and overheat blades? This guide pinpoints the best cordless medium/heavy-duty clippers for UK yards and the right A2 blade setupstart coarse, finish medium (2.5mm)with 120240 minute runtimes, so you clip cleaner, faster, and safer. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Clipper Selection What To Do: Choose medium or heavy-duty cordless clippers with strong torque, long runtime, and cooling features (e.g., thermal shutdown or sealed body). Keep lightweight A5 units for the head and fiddly areas only. Why It Matters: Power and cooling prevent bogging and overheating on dense cob coats. Common Mistake: Using lightweight trimmers for body work and burning out the motor. Area: Blade Strategy What To Do: Start with A2 coarse to remove bulk on greasy/dense coats, then finish with A2 medium (2.5mm) for an even result. Reserve fine (1.5mm) and #10 blades for clean, sensitive or detail areas only. Why It Matters: Correct progression gives a cleaner clip and reduces heat and snagging. Common Mistake: Going straight in with fine blades, especially on pink skin. Area: Cordless vs Corded What To Do: Pick cordless for typical UK yards with limited sockets and wet winter floors; plan your battery rotation. Choose corded only if clipping all day with reliable mains access. Why It Matters: Cordless improves safety and reach without compromising modern power. Common Mistake: Relying on one battery or an extension lead in slippery, busy areas. Area: Overheating Prevention What To Do: Oil and brush out blades every few minutes, set correct tension, and rotate between two blade sets. Choose models with thermal protection or sealed housings. Why It Matters: Managing friction and debris keeps blades sharp and skin safe. Common Mistake: Overtightening tension and ignoring rising blade temperature. Area: Battery Strategy What To Do: Aim for 120240 minutes per battery and keep two on rotation; label and cycle them evenly. Charge the night before and store at room temperature. Why It Matters: Proper planning avoids downtime and extends battery life. Common Mistake: Running one battery flat and waiting for a charge mid-clip. Area: Prep & Setup What To Do: Wash and dry the horse before clipping; set up a station with oil, cleaning brush, spare blades, towels, and charged labelled batteries. Check yard safety and have a helper if needed. Why It Matters: Clean coats and organised tools reduce friction, heat, and stress. Common Mistake: Clipping dirty, damp coats that blunt blades immediately. Area: Clipping Technique What To Do: Use long, even strokes with the coat; first pass with coarse A2, second with medium A2. Use a shorter handpiece for legs and a close blade like #10 for careful tidying. Why It Matters: Good technique speeds the job and improves the finish. Common Mistake: Rushing tight areas and creating tramlines or nicks. Area: Timing & Rugging What To Do: Start clipping in OctoberNovember and maintain every 46 weeks; rug appropriately with breathable turnout/stable rugs after clipping. Monitor for rubs and adjust layers as temperatures change. Why It Matters: Timely clips and correct rugging keep cobs comfortable and dry in UK winters. Common Mistake: Over-rugging a freshly clipped horse or leaving it cold and wet. In This Guide What clippers does a cob need? The best cordless clippers for cobs Which blades do I need for a cob? Cordless vs corded for UK yards How do I stop clippers overheating on thick coats? What battery setup do I need for multiple cobs? When should I clip a cob in the UK, and what gear pairs best? A step-by-step clipping plan for cob owners Got a hairy native who laughs at lightweight trimmers? If you own a cob, you need clippers that stay cool, keep cutting, and dont bog down in woolly winter coats and heavy feathering.Key takeaway: For UK cobs, choose a medium or heavy-duty cordless clipper with long battery life and the right A2 blade set (coarse to start, medium to finish) to power through thick coats cleanly and safely.What clippers does a cob need?Cobs need medium or heavy-duty clippers to cut through thick, woolly coats and heavy feathering without slowing or overheating. Cordless models with strong motors and long runtimes are ideal for UK yards where sockets are scarce.Native cobs grow dense, rain-shedding coats for our damp autumn and winter, plus substantial manes and leg feather. That means you need more torque than an A5-style lightweight can offer for body clipping. As our buyers guide for native cobs states:The Ideal Clipper Should Be: Powerful enough to cut through thick, woolly coats and heavy feathering without bogging down or overheating. Just Horse RidersProfessional clipping experts mirror this. Niki Baxter, a recognised clipper specialist who works with Liveryman, describes her medium-heavy duty clippers as:The strongest of my clippers able to get through the thickest of Cushing coats... I primarily use these to clip the body of the horse neck, barrel and hind quarters. Niki Baxter, professional clipper expertIn short: pick medium/heavy duty for the body; keep lighter A5 units for heads and fiddly bits. Cordless makes sense for winter yard setups, but you must check runtime and cooling features.The best cordless clippers for cobsThe top cordless choices for cobs are the Lister Eclipse (419.99), Heiniger Xplorer (406.20), Heiniger Opal (359.99), Clipperman Dragon (317.46), and the budget-friendly Masterclip HD Roamer.Heres how they stack up for thick coats, feather, and long UK winter sessions:Lister Eclipse (RRP 419.99) Medium-duty cordless with a brushless DC motor for reliable torque. It includes a thermal shutdown to protect against overheating and comes with A2 blades (3mm cut). Ideal if youve had clippers get hot on cobs in the past.Heiniger Xplorer (RRP 406.20) Medium-duty, built for challenging coats with quieter operation and a sealed unit to keep hair and dirt out. A great pick for sensitive types and winter yard conditions where grit and damp are common. Forum feedback is strong:I love my Heineger x-plorers. They make an easy job of my cobs legs and mane. Horse & Hound Forum userHeiniger Opal (RRP 359.99) Massive 240-minute runtime with a 60-minute charge and two batteries. Two speed settings help tackle thicker sections, and it includes a #10 blade out of the box for close work. If you clip multiple horses or do full clips on a time limit, this runtime is a standout.Clipperman Dragon (RRP 317.46) Supplied with two rechargeable batteries, each around 2 hours of runtime (with longer options available). A strong value pick if you clip several horses in a day and want uninterrupted swapping between batteries.Masterclip HD Roamer A budget-conscious medium-duty option with 120 minutes per battery, about 1,200g weight, a 2-year warranty, and A2 1.5mm fine cut blades included. Users love the punch-for-price:Masterclip. Considerably cheaper than other makes and I find them at least as good if not better. Mine make mincemeat of really thick, dense cob leg hair, and even went through his body hair when it was damp. Horsekaren, Well-Known Member, Horse & Hound ForumBut note some report motor heat if tension and oiling arent spot-on; keep maintenance tight.All the above are proven performers on cobs thicker coats. Choose based on your priorities: maximum cooling and protection (Lister Eclipse), quieter sealed design (Xplorer), longest runtime (Opal), battery swapping (Dragon), or budget grunt (Masterclip).Which blades do I need for a cob?Start with A2 coarse on super thick or greasy coats, then finish with A2 medium (2.5mm) for a tidy, everyday clip; avoid fine A2 (1.5mm) on pink skin to reduce sunburn risk.A2 blades suit most medium/heavy-duty clippers used for body work on cobs. The key is pairing cut length to coat density and skin sensitivity:A2 coarse Best first pass on dense, greasy, or damp winter coats to avoid snagging and heat build-up.A2 medium (2.5mm) Your go-to finishing blade for most horses, giving a neat, even coat without going too close.A2 fine (1.5mm) Only for finer coats and clean, dry conditions; do not use on pink skin where sun exposure can irritate.For legs and heavy feather, opt for a shorter handpiece for access around knees and fetlocks. Lightweight A5-style clippers are useful for heads and lower legs, but not for the thickest cob body coats. The Heiniger Xplorer and Opal combo is particularly versatile: Xplorer for body work and Opals supplied #10 blade for close, careful detail where needed.Quick tip: Always clip a clean, dry horse where possible. Dirt blunts blades and creates friction the fastest way to make even premium clippers run hot.Cordless vs corded for UK yardsCordless clippers give you freedom around stable blocks that lack mains sockets and reduce trip hazards; corded units can be cheaper and run indefinitely for heavy commercial use.In UK livery yards, cordless makes life easier in winter when youre working around wet floors, dark evenings, and limited plug access. The trade-off is planning your battery runtime. As a guide, premium cordless units now deliver 120240 minutes per battery, easily covering a full cob clip with spares ready for back-to-back horses.If you clip professionally all day, corded may still be cost-effective. For most cob owners, modern cordless models provide the right mix of power, runtime, and safety around fidgety horses in tight wash bays.How do I stop clippers overheating on thick coats?Oil and clean every few minutes, set the correct blade tension, and pick clippers with thermal protection or sealed bodies to manage heat and debris.Overheating happens when friction and load climb: blades get dry, coat is greasy, or tension is overtight. Some users report heat over the motor housing on budget models even with care, so choose smart features where you can. The Lister Eclipse includes thermal shutdown to protect the motor, while the Heiniger Xplorer has a sealed unit that keeps hair and grime out, reducing wear and noise.Routine maintenance is non-negotiable:Oil little and often Every few minutes, and immediately if you notice pitch changing or blades warming.Brush out hair Clear vents and blades frequently. Keep a proper cleaning brush in your grooming kit.Check tension Too tight = heat and premature wear; too loose = poor cut and snagging.Swap hot blades Rotate between two sets so one cools while the other cuts.Pro tip: Build a dedicated cleaning and oiling station in your clipping area. A bottle of clipper oil, a small towel, a vent brush, and spare blades make all the difference. Stock up via your grooming essentials so youre never caught short mid-clip.What battery setup do I need for multiple cobs?Plan for 120240 minutes per battery, keep two on rotation, and choose models supplied with spares to clip back-to-back horses without waiting.Youve got excellent choices here. The Heiniger Opal delivers a class-leading 240 minutes on a 60-minute charge across two batteries, which is ample for full clips on cobs. The Clipperman Dragon ships with two batteries at roughly 2 hours each, and additional batteries are available if youre running a yard day. The Masterclip HD Roamer offers about 120 minutes per battery, so plan two or three batteries if youre doing several horses in one session.Pro tip: Label batteries by number and cycle them evenly to maximise lifespan. Store them at room temperature and top up charge the night before a big clipping day.When should I clip a cob in the UK, and what gear pairs best?Clip cobs in OctoberNovember before heavy rugs go on, then maintain monthly through winter as coats regrow in the damp UK climate. Pair fresh clips with well-fitting turnout and stable rugs to avoid chills and rubs.Our wetter autumns cue native types to lay down a dense, water-shedding coat. If your cob is in regular work, clipping early stops sweat-soaked sessions and rug rubs. Many UK cob owners re-clip every 46 weeks through winter for comfort and hygiene, especially where heavy feather traps mud.Match your clip with sensible rugging:Turnout: After clipping, choose reliable, breathable winter turnout rugs for field time. Look for strong outers and smooth linings to minimise rubs.Stable: Use layered stable rugs and adjust with temperature swings to keep your cob warm without sweating.Brands to trust: Robust, weatherproof designs from WeatherBeeta cope brilliantly with British mud and rain.Dont forget winter visibility for late-afternoon hacks. A clipped coat can dry faster, but short daylight demands care: add hivis for riders to keep you seen on lanes and bridleways.Pro tip: After removing heavy feather, protect freshly clipped legs in muddy fields with suitable leg wear and monitor for irritation. If your cob is prone to knocking, consider horse boots and bandages for turnout or schooling until the skin settles.A step-by-step clipping plan for cob ownersHeres a proven, cob-focused sequence that keeps the job efficient and the finish clean.Wash and dry a day before (or this morning if sun and stables allow). Dirt and grease blunt blades quickly on cobs.Set up your station: clippers, spare blades (coarse and medium), oil, cleaning brush, towel, batteries charged and labelled, and a helper if needed. Check yard safety guidance and follow common-sense protocols endorsed by UK bodies like the BHS.Start with coarse A2 for the first pass on the body if the coat is heavy or greasy. Keep your strokes long and even, working with the coat.Switch to A2 medium (2.5mm) to finish the body for a cleaner line and more even result.Short handpiece for legs and detail: Work carefully around knees, heels, and armpits. Use the Heiniger Opals supplied #10 blade for precise, close areas if needed.Blade rotation and cooling: Swap blades the moment they warm; oil and brush every few minutes.Final tidy: Blend lines, check symmetry, and brush off loose hair. Pop on a breathable rug straight after if its chilly.Clean down: Brush vents, wipe the body, disinfect blades, lightly oil for storage, and put batteries on charge.Quick tip: If youre new to clipping, start with a trace or blanket clip before attempting a full clip on a very woolly cob. You can always take more off later as work increases and the weather closes in.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend planning your clipping kit before the first big temperature drop. If you need to balance the budget, check the seasonal deals in our Secret Tack Room clearance for practical winter upgrades.FAQsWill cordless clippers overheat on thick cob coats?They can if blades are dry, tension is too tight, or the motor is working against grease and dirt. Choose features that help manage heat (e.g., the Lister Eclipse has a thermal shutdown), keep the horse clean and dry, and oil/clean every few minutes. Rotating two blade sets is the simplest way to keep temperatures down.What blades should I use for my cobs legs and body?Start with A2 coarse on heavy, greasy coats to remove bulk, then finish the body with A2 medium (2.5mm). Avoid fine (1.5mm) on pink skin. For intricate leg areas, a shorter handpiece and a close blade like a #10 can help tidy heels and pasterns carefully.How long will the batteries last for a full cob clip?Expect 120240 minutes per battery. For example, the Masterclip HD Roamer delivers around 120 minutes per battery; Heiniger Opal runs up to 240 minutes with a 60-minute recharge; Clipperman Dragon offers about two hours per battery and includes two as standard.Can I use lightweight clippers for a cobs body?Nokeep lightweight A5 clippers for heads and lower legs. For a cobs body, use medium or heavy-duty clippers designed to cut dense, coarse hair without bogging down or overheating.When should I clip my cob in the UK?Most owners start in OctoberNovember, then maintain every 46 weeks through winter. Clipping before heavy rugging helps prevent sweat and rubs, especially in the UKs damp, changeable conditions.Cordless or cordedwhich is better for me?If youre clipping on a typical UK yard with limited sockets and winter mud, go cordless and plan your battery rotation. If youre clipping all day, every day, corded can be more economicalthough many modern cordless kits now comfortably cover multiple full clips with spare batteries.How do I keep a newly clipped cob comfortable?Rug appropriately for the temperature with breathable turnout or stable rugs, avoid over-rugging, and check for rubs daily. Keep legs clean post-feather removal and use protective boots or bandages if your cob is prone to knocks while the skin acclimatises. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Grooming KitShop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop Boots & BandagesShop WeatherBeeta

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 No arena at home but big competition goals? Learn to blend hacking, grass schooling, and smart arena hires for safe, consistent progresscomplete with a simple 7-day plan, footing checks, and one crucial number: hire every 1-3 weeksso you build fitness, protect welfare, and arrive at shows confident and prepared. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Footing Checks What To Do: Walk your intended lines and test with your boot heel; only school or jump when the turf has secure purchase and suitable firmness. Move markers weekly to avoid poaching. Why It Matters: Good going protects tendons, confidence, and performance. Common Mistake: Schooling on deep, greasy, frozen, rutted, or baked-hard ground. Area: Weekly Training Mix What To Do: Rotate hacks, grass flatwork/poles, rest, an arena hire/lesson, intervals, a skills top-up, then easy recovery. Swap days or book extra hires when weather dictates. Why It Matters: Balanced loading builds fitness, skills, and resilience without overtraining. Common Mistake: Stacking hard sessions back-to-back or skipping recovery days. Area: Arena Hire Strategy What To Do: Book a hire every 13 weeks; arrive warmed up, focus on 12 priorities, and video a test or round. Share sessions to cut costs and stick to venue rules. Why It Matters: Precision surfaces enable technical work and realistic show rehearsal. Common Mistake: Turning up without a plan or overrunning your slot/ignoring rules. Area: Hacking For Fitness What To Do: Use brisk walk/trot hills and controlled intervals on good tracks, building sets gradually. Keep lines straight and transitions tidy. Why It Matters: Hacking develops cardiovascular fitness, straightness, and strength. Common Mistake: Going flat-out or using poor verges and slippery lanes. Area: Grass Schooling Setup What To Do: Mark a 2040 or 2060 with cones; use simple pole lines, curves, and small fences on the best turf. Ride wider turns and rotate take-off/landing spots. Why It Matters: Smart layouts give accuracy and proprioception without an arena. Common Mistake: Tight turns and big fences when the ground is marginal. Area: Welfare & Recovery What To Do: Warm up 1015 minutes, increase work progressively, and cool down with stretching. Check legs, hydration, and hoof balance; reduce load at any early soreness. Why It Matters: Soundness comes from thoughtful loading and timely care. Common Mistake: Sudden spikes in speed or intensity and ignoring heat or swelling. Area: Safety & Kit What To Do: Wear hi-vis and a fitted helmet; use suitable leg boots and weather-appropriate layers. Keep a small weather kit: spare gloves, lightweight waterproof, cooler, duct tape, towel. Why It Matters: Visibility and protection reduce risk and keep training consistent. Common Mistake: Skipping safety gear or leaving grit under boots/bandages. Area: Progress Tracking What To Do: Keep a simple log of footing, work, and feel; film a monthly marker test or course. Use patterns to adjust plans and hire frequency. Why It Matters: Tracking highlights trends, prevents overload, and shows progress. Common Mistake: Chasing daily perfection without data or objective check-ins. In This Guide Do you need an arena to compete successfully? What facilities do you actually need? How to train without an arena: a weekly plan that works Managing footing and weather on grass and tracks Hiring facilities and shared options to fill the gaps Kit that makes non-arena training safer and more effective Welfare first: staying sound without an arena When an arena becomes worth it You dont need a private, floodlit arena to ride down the centre line, clear a show jump round, or cross the finish flags with a grin. Plenty of UK riders build competitive partnerships from fields, lanes, and hired venues with smart planning and a focus on welfare.Key takeaway: You can compete successfully without your own arena by combining hacking, grass schooling, and regular arena hire as long as footing, fitness, and horse welfare drive your decisions.Do you need an arena to compete successfully?No owning an arena isnt essential for competition success in the UK, provided you manage footing, plan your schooling, and use hired facilities for technical work.Top-level competition surfaces are brilliant, but theyre not the only way to prepare. For dressage, show jumping, eventing, endurance, TREC, and riding club activities, a blend of hacking (for fitness and straightness), grass schooling (for balance and proprioception), and periodic arena hire (for precision and test practice) can deliver excellent results. Many BHS Accredited Professionals coach riders who dont have on-site arenas, and they succeed by keeping the foundations right: consistency, correct basics, and good horse management.In short, success depends more on your training structure, the quality of your coaching, and how you protect your horses soundness than on owning square metres of silica sand.What facilities do you actually need?You need safe footing some of the time, reliable access to schooling space every week, and a way to rehearse competition-specific questions before show day.That can look like one or more of the following: Grass schooling area at home for flatwork, poles, and low fences when the ground is suitable. Quiet lanes, bridleways, and fields for hacking, hillwork, and interval training to build fitness. Hired arenas or clinics every 13 weeks for technical sessions, test riding, and bad-weather periods. Access to jumps, poles, and cones you can move safely on grass, plus a measured dressage area (you can mark out a 20 40 m or 20 60 m rectangle with cones).For discipline specifics, remember the usual ring sizes: British Dressage commonly uses 20 40 m and 20 60 m tests; show jumping course builders design with safety margins around fences; and eventing training needs variable terrain all of which you can simulate with clever use of space and hired time.Quick tip: Stand where you plan to ride and check underfoot with your boot heel. If its slippy on top, deep, rutted, rock-hard, or waterlogged, change the plan horse welfare comes first.How to train without an arena: a weekly plan that worksRotate hacking, grass schooling, and arena hire so you cover fitness, flatwork, jumping, and competition rehearsal without overloading your horse.Heres a simple template you can adapt around weather and your calendar: Day 1 Hacking and hillwork: 4575 minutes mostly walk and trot, with 23 steady hill repeats. Focus on straightness, marching walk, and transitions on straight lines. Day 2 Grass flatwork and poles: Warm up in walk, then 2030 minutes of circles, lateral moves, and a simple pole line (four poles on a curve or 1822 m lines). Keep it easy if the ground is firm. Day 3 Rest or in-hand work: Stretch, mobilise, or hand-graze. Light grooming and a quick leg check. Day 4 Arena hire or lesson: Use a hire for test riding, grids, or related distances. Video the session so you can review later. Day 5 Hack with intervals: Warm up, then 34 sets of 24 minutes brisk trot or canter on a good track, with equal recovery. Keep it controlled, not flat-out. Day 6 Skills top-up on grass: Practise simple accuracy questions: centre lines, halts, or a small course of four to six jumps. Finish with a stretchy trot in a longer outline. Day 7 Easy walk or rest: Active recovery prevents stiffness and keeps the brain fresh.Adjust volume for your horses age, fitness, and discipline. If the weather turns, swap the order, book an extra hire, or shift technical work to in-hand sessions.Pro tip: Film a monthly marker session (test ride or small course) to track progress without chasing daily perfection.Managing footing and weather on grass and tracksOnly school or jump on grass when the ground offers secure purchase and appropriate firmness; avoid deep, greasy, rutted, frozen, or baked-hard surfaces.Footing management is your biggest job without an arena. Horses cope well with varied surfaces when you build up gradually and respect whats underfoot. Use this seasonal guide: Autumn: Great for conditioning; the ground often has give without being deep. Watch for leaves hiding roots and holes, and avoid newly poached gateways. Winter: Prioritise walking hacks, roadwork for conditioning, and arena hire for anything faster or technical. Dont school on frozen or waterlogged ground. Spring: Reintroduce more canter intervals on suitable turf as it dries. Start jumping small on the best part of your field; keep turns wider until the grass thickens. Summer: Early mornings give the best going. On hard ground, do your technical work at a hire and keep grass sessions to light flatwork or raised poles.Before each ride, walk your intended line. If your boot slides, your horse will too. If your heel barely dents the surface, shorten the session or switch to hacking. Ruts, divots, and molehills can twist joints clear or avoid them. The BHS encourages riders to risk-assess surfaces every time, and that habit protects tendons and confidence alike.Quick tip: Use simple markers (cones, tubs, poles) to define better patches of turf and build courses that avoid weak areas and move them weekly to prevent poaching.Hiring facilities and shared options to fill the gapsRegularly hiring a local arena, joining clinics, or sharing transport gives you the precision surface and equipment you need for grids, test practice, and wet weeks.Most areas have riding clubs, centres, or private yards offering hour slots or clinics. Booking a session every 13 weeks keeps skills sharp and helps you rehearse competition questions under coaching. Share with a friend to split fuel and booking costs, or piggyback onto your coachs clinic schedule to maximise value.Make your hire time count: Arrive warmed up from a brisk in-hand walk or short hack if appropriate. Focus on 12 priorities: e.g., centre lines and halts, or a grid for technique. Video a complete test or round at the end to replicate show pressure. Finish with a relaxed stretch to leave your horse confident.Etiquette matters: stick to booked times, clear droppings, rebuild poles, and follow any posted rules. Centres rely on good clients to keep offering affordable access.Kit that makes non-arena training safer and more effectivePrioritise visibility, head protection, leg support, and weather-appropriate layers so you can train consistently in changing UK conditions.Essentials to consider: Be seen on roads and tracks: Good hi-vis riding gear on you and your horse improves visibility to drivers and other path users in low light and hedged lanes. Protect your head: A properly fitted riding helmet is non-negotiable for schooling, hacking, and jumping, especially when surfaces vary. Look after legs: Use appropriate horse boots and bandages for polework and jumping on grass to reduce knocks and brush injuries, and check for grit after each ride. Weather-ready horses: Keep muscles warm to aid performance and recovery. Choose turnout rugs suited to the days temperature and wind, and remove promptly before work so the skin can breathe. Recovery matters: A solid grooming routine promotes circulation and lets you spot swelling early. Stock up on everyday grooming tools for efficient post-work care. Support from the inside: Discuss joint, hoof, or electrolyte needs with your vet and farrier, and choose targeted supplements if appropriate during heavier training periods. Ring-ready wardrobe: When show day comes, feel comfortable and confident in breathable, well-cut competition clothing that meets discipline rules.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend building a small weather strategy kit in your tack room: spare gloves, a lightweight waterproof, a cooler, a roll of duct tape for lost shoe emergencies, and a towel for muddy legs before you boot up.Welfare first: staying sound without an arenaSoundness is driven by thoughtful workload, balanced feet, and good recovery not by arena ownership.Veterinary and farriery priorities remain the same wherever you train. Keep cycles regular, manage body condition, and build work progressively. Varying surfaces can be beneficial for proprioception when introduced sensibly, but tendons and joints dislike sudden spikes in speed, tight turns, or deep/unstable going. BEVA-aligned principles in practice look like this: Warm up and cool down properly: 1015 minutes of purposeful walk and trot before work; finish with easy stretching. Progressive loading: Increase intensity or duration in small steps over weeks, not days, and avoid stacking hard sessions back-to-back. Hoof balance and shoes: Work with your farrier on a cycle that suits your workload and ground type. Check for pulled shoe risks on long grass and deep going. Monitor for early signs: Heat, swelling, short steps on turns, or soreness to palpation all mean ease off and assess. Hydration and recovery: Offer water promptly after work, consider electrolytes in hot weather or longer efforts, and turn out for gentle movement where possible.Quick tip: Keep a simple training log (weather, footing, what you did, how your horse felt). Patterns jump out quickly and help you dodge injuries and dips in form.When an arena becomes worth itAn arena becomes worthwhile if your goals demand frequent high-intensity schooling, precise jumping grids, or year-round training regardless of weather.If youre stepping up levels, coaching multiple days a week, or need consistency for young horses, a home arena or full-livery access can be transformational. Typical training spaces include 20 40 m and 20 60 m rectangles for dressage, with larger footprints for jumping to allow safe approaches and margins. British Showjumping and British Eventing training often benefits from a 30 m width for related distances and flowing lines, though you can achieve a lot with creative layouts on slightly smaller spaces.Not ready to build? Options include: Move to a yard with an arena: Weigh extra access against travel time and turnout quality. Block-book hires: Reserve regular weekly slots through winter to guarantee training continuity. Portable solutions: Keep lightweight poles and cones to create exercises anywhere you have safe footing.Before committing to construction, think planning permission, drainage, prevailing wind, neighbour relations, maintenance, and whether your competitive goals truly require daily arena time or if a smart hybrid approach will still serve you.Our customers often tell us the winning formula is consistency: two or three quality sessions each week, a coach who understands your set-up, and a flexible plan when the weather shifts.Practical recommendationsUse this checklist to keep your non-arena programme on track: Schedule 13 arena hires per month in wet or hard-ground seasons. Build fitness with structured hacks; save technical work for the best footing days. Mark out a 20 40 m rectangle on grass for accuracy training. Keep a small jump/pole store and rotate grass take-off/landing spots. Invest in safety and visibility: hi-vis and a fitted riding helmet. Protect legs with suitable boots and bandages and check for grit after work. Match rugs to conditions with reliable turnout rugs and keep post-ride care simple with everyday grooming tools. Discuss targeted supplements with your vet during peak training blocks. Organise regular lessons or clinics to keep standards honest.ConclusionYou dont need a private arena to compete well you need a plan that respects footing, builds fitness, and gives you regular access to precision work when it counts. Blend hacks, smart grass schooling, and consistent arena hires, and youll arrive at the start box ring-ready and confident.FAQsCan I practise dressage tests on grass?Yes. Mark a 20 40 m or 20 60 m area with cones or poles and ride the lines as you would in an arena. Focus on rhythm, relaxation, and accuracy; save more collected work and sharp transitions for days with prime footing or an arena hire.Is it safe to jump on grass?Its safe when the ground offers good purchase and isnt deep, greasy, rutted, or rock-hard. Keep fences small to moderate, ride wider turns, and move your take-off/landing zones. Use protective boots and check studs only if youve been trained to fit them correctly.How often should I hire an arena if I dont have one at home?Plan a hire every 13 weeks, increasing frequency during wet winters or in the run-up to competitions. Use the time for grids, test riding, and rehearsing competition questions you cant safely replicate on grass.What if my field is too wet or too hard for weeks?Switch to conditioning hacks, in-hand work, and gymnastic exercises at a hire. You can maintain fitness and skills with careful planning until conditions improve.Do I need special equipment to hack for fitness?Not beyond sensible safety basics. Wear hi-vis, a well-fitted helmet, and choose a route with good footing and safe verges. Introduce intervals gradually and monitor your horses breathing and recovery.How do I stop grass schooling from churning up my field?Move your markers weekly, ride larger figures, avoid tight turns after rain, and rest heavily used patches. Use portable poles and jump wings so you can rotate layouts easily.What should I wear for my first competition?Check your disciplines rules, then choose comfortable, breathable competition clothing you can move in. Clean tack, polished boots, and a tidy plait go a long way toward ring confidence. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Hi-Vis GearShop Riding HelmetsShop Boots & BandagesShop Turnout RugsShop Grooming Kit

Welcome to Horse Illustrateds weekly installment of the Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, offered in partnership with the ASPCAs Right Horse program. This weeks adoptable horse is Beans! Check back weekly for a new featured horse so you can find your Right Horse.Photo courtesy Nexus Equine, Inc.Adoptable Horse: Beans, a 17-year-old, 12.0hh pony mareOrganization: Nexus Equine, Inc., El Reno, Okla.Get to Know Adoptable Horse BeansBeans may be small in size, but she has a big personalityand were honestly amazed shes still waiting for her person. With her striking coat, bright eyes, and beautiful mane, shes a pony that turns heads wherever she goes.Beans is smart, confident, and full of character. Shes a thinker who enjoys testing her handler, so she does best with a knowledgeable, consistent person who appreciates a cheeky partner and values building mutual respect.It appears Beans was started under saddle in the past but received some mixed messages. Nexus has gone back to solid foundational groundwork with her, focusing on softness, personal space, and disengaging her hindquarters so she can clearly understand whats being asked. She stands well to be saddled and picks up her front feet easily. Her hind feet are improving with continued consistency and patience.In the round pen, Beans free longes beautifully. On the longe line, she prefers to stay close and check in rather than move out, so she benefits from a confident handler who can provide clear direction.For a knowledgeable teen or small adult looking for a smart, opinionated pony and a rewarding project, Beans is well put together and has all the potential to become an excellent partner.Beans is current on: Coggins, vaccines, deworming, dental, and farrier care.Contact Nexus Equine, Inc. today about ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, Beans!Photo courtesy Nexus Equine, Inc.ASPCA Right HorseASPCA Right Horse is the online adoption platform of The Right Horse Initiative, a collection of equine industry and welfare professionals and advocates working together to improve the lives of horses in transition. A program of the ASPCA, their goal is to massively increase horse adoption in the United States. To find more adoptable horses and foster horses, visit www.myrighthorse.org. To learn more about The Right Horse, a program of the ASPCA, visit www.aspcarighthorse.org.The post ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week: Beans appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Battling slick yards, sore feet and muddy boots on repeat? This guide shows how Shires Moretta Luisa delivers grippy soles, shockabsorbing comfort and a quick wipeclean finish, plus when to opt for Alessandra childrens waterproof boots for OctoberMarch UK mud. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Daily Boot Choice What To Do: Choose Shires Moretta Luisa synthetic boots for everyday UK yard work and hacking. Prioritise supportive insoles, shock-absorbing soles and a grippy rubber outsole. Why It Matters: These features deliver reliable grip, comfort and durability on wet, mixed-surface yards. Common Mistake: Buying leather show boots you have to baby instead of a low-maintenance daily pair. Area: Quick Cleaning What To Do: Wipe boots with a damp microfibre cloth after rides; rinse off heavy mud before it dries. Skip polish and conditioner on synthetics. Why It Matters: Fast care keeps boots smart and extends life with minimal effort. Common Mistake: Using heat or harsh cleaners that weaken adhesives and finishes. Area: Sizing & Fit What To Do: Stick to your usual size; if you are UK 6.5/EU 40, try a 6 for snug or 7 for thicker socks. Check calf widths and pick lace-up for adjustability or plain for a sleek fit, trying them with your breeches. Why It Matters: Correct sizing prevents rubs and improves stability in the stirrup. Common Mistake: Ignoring calf measurements and sock thickness. Area: Wet-Yard Stability What To Do: Use boots with rubber outsoles and a supportive shank; add cushioned insoles and moisture-wicking socks for long days. Avoid heavy off-horse country walking in riding boots. Why It Matters: Proper support and grip reduce slips and fatigue on damp surfaces. Common Mistake: Treating riding boots like hiking boots on rough trails. Area: Kids Wet-Weather Boots What To Do: Choose Moretta Alessandra Childrens Country Boots for wet yards and light hacks. Rely on waterproof feet, water-repellent leather, WickAway lining and easy YKK zips. Why It Matters: Dry, comfortable feet keep children riding longer and happier in UK weather. Common Mistake: Using non-waterproof jodhpur boots for winter chores. Area: Pick the Right Type What To Do: Use tall synthetics (e.g., Luisa) for schooling and show prep, jodhpur boots for chores and quick rides, and country boots for wet yard jobs and light hacking. Rotate pairs to match the task. Why It Matters: Task-matching boosts performance and extends each pairs lifespan. Common Mistake: Wearing one pair for everything until the tread and structure fail. Area: Care & Longevity What To Do: Wipe after use, air-dry away from heat, and store upright with boot trees or paper. Check tread wear and retire flattened soles from yard work. Why It Matters: Good habits preserve structure, grip and comfort over time. Common Mistake: Drying on radiators or leaving boots collapsed in a heap. Area: Visibility & Protection What To Do: Wear hi-vis and an approved helmet on the road; add supportive insoles and use brushing boots for the horse on muddier hacks. Layer clothing for the weather. Why It Matters: Visibility and protection reduce risk and keep you comfortable year-round. Common Mistake: Hacking at dusk without hi-vis or skipping helmet checks. In This Guide Why Shires Moretta Luisa boots are ideal for daily UK use Are Shires Moretta boots easy to look after? Do Shires Moretta boots fit true to size? Are they stable and comfortable for wet UK yards and hacking? What should children wear for wet yards and light hacks? How to choose between tall boots, jodhpur boots and country boots Maintenance and longevity tips for Moretta boots What to pair with your boots for allseason UK riding Long, wet days at the yard demand boots that dont quit. If you want grip, comfort and zero faff with cleaning, the Shires Moretta range especially the Luisa is built for the reality of UK riding.Key takeaway: For everyday UK yard work and hacking, Shires Moretta synthetic riding boots (like the Luisa) deliver grip, stability and all-day comfort with easy wipe-clean care; for wetter jobs or younger riders, the Alessandra Childrens Country Boots add waterproof feet and quick-drying leather.Why Shires Moretta Luisa boots are ideal for daily UK useThe Shires Moretta Luisa boots combine supportive insoles, shock-absorbing soles, hardwearing inner calves and a grippy rubber outsole, making them a reliable, everyday choice for UK yards. These features reduce slip risk and keep you comfortable in the stirrup and on the yard.Underfoot, the shock-absorbing sole takes the sting out of long stints in the irons and on concrete, while a supportive insole helps keep your feet energised through mucking out, schooling and hacking. The inner calves are reinforced for durability against stirrup leathers, and the outer panels are softer and stretchy for comfort and a tidy leg profile. A rubber outsole provides dependable grip and stability when surfaces are damp a fact UK riders appreciate most in autumn and winter.At Just Horse Riders, we rate the Luisa as a practical, lowmaintenance boot for busy livery life. You get the daytoday resilience you need without having to baby them like leather. Browse our current tall and short options in our curated selection of horse riding boots.We do get a lot of good compliments on how comfortable these boots are... the sole there as well so even if it is a bit wet on those days obviously not for Country walking but they'll be suitable so you don't fall on your backside. Aaron Englander, Just Horse Riders staff reviewer (video review)Are Shires Moretta boots easy to look after?Yes the synthetic finish needs no polishing or conditioning; a quick wipe with a damp cloth is enough to keep them smart. This simplicity makes them ideal for muddy UK yards where leather care routines often slip.If youve ever spent Sunday evening buffing leather, the appeal is obvious: with the Moretta synthetics, you can rinse or wipe and be done. Thats precisely why theyre a favourite among riders who want the show boot look without the maintenance it usually demands. A staff reviewer at Just Horse Riders put it plainly:Theyre super easy to look after; theres no maintenance really with it like leather boots are, and literally nice and easy to wipe down as well just with a wet cloth. Aaron Englander, Just Horse Riders (JHR review)Quick tip: Keep a microfibre cloth or pack of tack wipes in your grooming kit so you can wipe down your boots before the mud dries. Youll find easy-care essentials in grooming to make the routine even faster.Do Shires Moretta boots fit true to size?Yes riders consistently report Moretta boots fit true to size; if youre a UK 6.5 (EU 40), try a 6 or 7 depending on sock thickness and calf fit. The range comes in various calf widths and in both lace-up and plain versions for a dialled-in fit.In a Horse & Hound forum thread, one well-known member summed it up neatly:I absolutely love my Shires Moretta riding boots. They are true to size and super comfortable, and so easy to keep looking new! Katieg123 (source)Fit tips for UK riders:Between sizes? If youre a 6.5/40, choose 6 for a closer fit or 7 to allow for thicker winter socks.Check calf width options and consider whether you prefer a lace-up front (more adjustability) or plain (sleek under show wear).Try boots with the breeches you actually ride in to confirm calf and ankle fit; if you need new legwear, explore our streamlined and supportive womens jodhpurs and breeches.Are they stable and comfortable for wet UK yards and hacking?Yes the shock-absorbing soles and rubber outsoles provide grip and stability on damp yard surfaces, while supportive insoles help on long days in the saddle. Theyre made for everyday riding and yard jobs, with the caveat that theyre not intended for heavy country walking off the horse.UK weather rarely plays nice. The Luisas grippy sole and supportive shank (for underfoot stability) give you confidence when moving between concrete, rubber matting and soggy gateways, and the shock absorption helps reduce fatigue. For extra comfort on long hacks or busy show days, slip in a supportive insole (the Moretta line is often paired with ActiveFlex-style footbeds) and wear moisture-wicking socks to keep feet drier for longer.Safety first on the roads: when you head out in low light, pair your boots with highvisibility essentials and an approved riding hat. See our rider favourites in hivis and browse certified options in riding helmets.What should children wear for wet yards and light hacks?Choose the Shires Moretta Alessandra Childrens Country Boots for wet conditions, thanks to their waterproof membrane in the feet and quick-drying, waterrepellent leather. Theyre designed to keep childrens feet drier during yard work and light hacking.Kid-friendly features that make a real difference on British yards include YKK zips with 1/4 height gussets for easy on/off, WickAway staydry lining for comfort, and soft piqued leather linings for a cushioned feel. The waterrepellent leather sheds splashes, while the waterproof foot membrane helps prevent soggy socks. If your child is in and out of stables and paddock gateways, this combination is worth its weight in gold from October to March.For a complete fit, team them with well-cut childrens jodhpurs and breeches that wont bunch under the zip or rub at the ankle.How to choose between tall boots, jodhpur boots and country bootsUse tall synthetic riding boots for daily schooling and competition practice, jodhpur boots for everyday yard chores, and country boots for wet yard jobs and light hacking. This split keeps each pair working to its strengths and extends their lifespan.Heres a practical breakdown for UK routines:Tall synthetic boots (e.g., Moretta Luisa): Best for riding focus consistent lowerleg feel, smart appearance, easy wipeclean. Ideal for lessons, schooling and lowmaintenance show prep.Jodhpur boots: Great for daily yard graft and quick rides; theyre easier on/off and cooler in summer, especially when paired with half chaps. Synthetic options are the simplest to maintain.Country boots (e.g., Alessandra for children): Built for weather protection and yard slog with waterrepellent leather and waterproof feet. Best for chores and light hacking on the flat.If youre refreshing your riding wardrobe at the same time, our performance cuts in womens jodhpurs and breeches are designed to sit smoothly inside tall boots, and our competition clothing range keeps you ringready without compromising comfort.Maintenance and longevity tips for Moretta bootsWipe synthetic boots after each ride, let them dry naturally away from direct heat, and store them upright to protect the structure. Avoid heavy country walking off the horse to preserve the sole and keep grip sharp.Simple habits go a long way:Postride wipe down: Use a damp cloth to remove mud before it hardens. For stubborn marks, a mild soap on a soft cloth will do, then wipe clean.Dry smart: Air-dry at room temperature; dont put them on a radiator or in front of a heater, which can stress glues and materials.Store standing: Boot trees or rolled newspapers help maintain the leg shape and prevent creasing.Sock strategy: In winter, use thicker or thermal socks; in summer, wick-away riding socks reduce moisture and friction.Rotate if you can: If youre riding daily and doing heavy yard work, alternating between a riding pair and a yard pair will significantly extend lifespan.Pro tip: Keep an eye on your outsoles. If the tread is flattening, especially under the ball of the foot, retire them from yard use and keep them for dryday riding only. For new-season replacements or to explore alternatives across the range, see our latest from Shires.What to pair with your boots for allseason UK ridingCombine your boots with highvisibility gear for road safety, a certified helmet for protection, and weatherappropriate layers for you and your horse. This keeps you comfortable and visible yearround.On darker mornings and afternoons, prioritise visibility with leg bands, tabards and hat silks from our hivis collection. Always wear an approved hat from our range of riding helmets and consider a slim skull cap or peaked hat according to discipline and personal preference.For your horse, match the season to your turnout strategy: a lightweight sheet in spring showers, a midweight fill when temperatures dip, and a fly sheet in midge season. If youre reviewing kit for the season ahead, our curated ranges of turnout rugs, stable rugs and fly rugs will help you build a versatile wardrobe that supports consistent training through the British weather.Quick tip: If you hack regularly on varied terrain, consider using supportive insoles inside your boots for shock management, and keep your horses legs protected with wellfitting brushing boots from horse boots & bandages on muddier days.The bottom line on Shires Moretta bootsFor busy UK riders, Shires Morettas synthetic riding boots deliver practical performance genuine grip and shock absorption, supportive insoles, and nofuss cleaning. Choose Luisa for everyday riding and yard life, and pick Alessandra Childrens Country Boots when waterproof feet and quickdrying leather are a must.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend these if you want smart, comfortable boots that keep up with real livery schedules and real British weather without the leather care routine. If you need help with sizing or calf width, our team is happy to advise.FAQsAre Shires Moretta boots true to size for a UK 6.5/EU 40?Yes. Riders report they run true to size; if youre between sizes (6.5/40), try a 6 for a snug fit or a 7 to allow for thicker socks, and consider the available calf widths.How durable are they for daily yard duties like mucking out?Very durable for everyday use features like hardwearing inner calves, shockabsorbing soles and supportive shanks are designed to handle regular wear and tear on UK livery yards.Can I use them in wet UK weather for hacking?Yes. The rubber outsole gives reliable grip on damp surfaces, making them suitable for yard work and hacking. Theyre not intended for heavy, offhorse country walking on rough trails.Whats the maintenance compared to leather boots?Minimal. Synthetic Moretta boots dont need polishing or conditioning; wipe with a damp cloth and airdry. This saves time and keeps them looking smart with little effort.Which Moretta boots are best for children in wet weather?The Alessandra Childrens Country Boots add a waterproof membrane in the feet, quickdrying, waterrepellent leather, YKK zips and WickAway lining ideal for wet yards and light hacks.Are they comfortable for long hacks?Yes. Riders and reviewers praise the comfort from the supportive insoles and shock absorption. For extra support, add cushioned insoles and moisturewicking socks.Do they come in different calf widths or styles?Yes. Moretta boots are offered in various sizes and calf widths, with both laceup and plain versions available to finetune the fit and look.I absolutely love my Shires Moretta riding boots. They are true to size and super comfortable, and so easy to keep looking new! Katieg123 (Horse & Hound forum)Still deciding? Explore our latest horse riding boots and message the team for personalised sizing help were here to get you and your horse comfortably out the gate, rain or shine. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Riding BootsShop ShiresShop Jodhpurs & BreechesShop Kids' JodhpursShop Hi-Vis Gear

Welcome to Horse Illustrateds weekly installment of the Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, offered in partnership with the ASPCAs Right Horse program. This weeks adoptable horse is Callie! Check back weekly for a new featured horse so you can find your Right Horse.Photo courtesy Colorado Horse RescueAdoptable Horse: Callie, a 23-year-old, 16.3hh American Quarter Horse mareOrganization: Colorado Horse Rescue, Longmont, Colo.Get to Know Adoptable Horse CallieCallie is looking for a quiet environment where she can feel at home. She does the best with other easy going, gentle horses much like herself. She is blind in one of her eyes, so a consistent environment will serve her well. Callie loves being groomed and spending time with people. She is a lovely horse to spend time with, and will make a great buddy to both horses and people.Contact Colorado Horse Rescue today about ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week, Callie!Photo courtesy Colorado Horse RescueASPCA Right HorseASPCA Right Horse is the online adoption platform of The Right Horse Initiative, a collection of equine industry and welfare professionals and advocates working together to improve the lives of horses in transition. A program of the ASPCA, their goal is to massively increase horse adoption in the United States. To find more adoptable horses and foster horses, visit www.myrighthorse.org. To learn more about The Right Horse, a program of the ASPCA, visit www.aspcarighthorse.org.The post ASPCA Right Horse Adoptable Horse of the Week: Callie appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.