10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Worried spring grass or autumn stabling will upset your horses gut, pile on pounds, or chew up your fields? This guide shows exactly how to phase grazing over 24 weeks, keep fibre on board at least every 4 hours, and tweak turnout, rugs, and pasture plans for calmer bellies and healthier swards. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Slow Diet Transitions What To Do: Change between grass, hay and haylage over 24 weeks; keep the same hay during changes and adjust portions gradually. Why It Matters: It allows the hindgut to adapt and reduces colic and diarrhoea risk. Common Mistake: Turning out for long periods or swapping forage types overnight. Area: Spring Turnout Plan What To Do: Start with 1530 minutes grazing and increase in small steps; split sessions and use strip grazing for sensitive horses. Why It Matters: It controls sugar intake and eases the move towards 24/7 turnout. Common Mistake: Opening a big new area or jumping straight to hours of rich grass. Area: Forage Every 4 Hours What To Do: Ensure hay or grass is available at least every 4 hours, including overnight; use slow feeder nets to extend chew time. Why It Matters: It keeps gut motility steady and buffers stomach acidity. Common Mistake: Leaving gaps without fibre, especially when stabled. Area: Weight & Laminitis Control What To Do: Use grazing muzzles, strip grazing, and choose longer, stemmy pasture; cap turnout time if needed and monitor condition. Why It Matters: It slows intake and limits sugar spikes that drive weight gain and laminitis. Common Mistake: Waiting until the horse is overweight before restricting grazing. Area: Gradual Stabling Switch What To Do: Bring in earlier by 1020 minutes daily for 12 weeks; provide hay immediately and add enrichment to reduce stress. Why It Matters: Smooth routine changes prevent pacing, weaving and fencewalking. Common Mistake: Moving from 24/7 turnout to full stabling in one go. Area: Winter Pasture Care What To Do: Use the bestdraining field, rotate grazing, and hardcore gateways; check water, shelter and hazards daily. Why It Matters: It protects the sward, reduces mudrelated issues and keeps horses safe. Common Mistake: Overusing wet paddocks at night and ignoring drainage and hazards. Area: Seasonal Feeding & Hydration What To Do: Top up with your winter hay from late summer; introduce any feed or supplement changes slowly and provide warm water or deicers. Why It Matters: It maintains condition and supports gut movement in cold weather. Common Mistake: Cutting hay too fast in spring or relying on icy water in winter. Area: Rugs & Yard Essentials What To Do: Match rug weight to weather, clip and condition; add hivis, grippy boots and heated water solutions as days shorten. Why It Matters: It keeps horses comfortable and yard work safe in UK conditions. Common Mistake: Rugging by calendar rather than actual weather and horse needs. In This Guide Why slow transitions protect your horses gut Your spring turnout timeline: day-by-day to 24/7 grazing Keep weight and laminitis risk in check all spring and summer Switching from summer to winter: make stabling gradual Winter pasture management in the UK: pick the right field and protect it Feed for the season: from latesummer hay topups to winter rations Rugs, water and safety kit that make transitions easier As the UK shifts from long summer evenings to crisp autumn mornings, your horses gut, waistline, and grazing land all feel the change. A smart, gradual plan protects digestion, prevents unwanted weight gain, and keeps your fields healthy right through winter.Key takeaway: Make every seasonal change gradually introduce or reduce grazing over 24 weeks, keep roughage available at least every 4 hours, and manage turnout to protect both your horse and your pasture.Why slow transitions protect your horses gutThe equine hindgut takes weeks even months to adapt to dietary change, so any switch between hay, haylage, and grass must be done slowly. Fast changes can disrupt the microbiome, triggering colic, diarrhoea, and behavioural stress.Through winter, most horses rely on conserved forage; in spring, rich grass is suddenly higher in sugars and starches. That contrast can shock the hindgut unless you introduce it progressively and maintain regular access to fibre. As a safety baseline, ensure your horse never goes longer than about 4 hours without forage, day or night. This keeps the gut moving, buffers acidity, and stabilises behaviour.Any dietary change that your horse experiences should be made slowly. Stephanie George, Nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds (Your Horse)At Just Horse Riders, we see far fewer spring tummy upsets and autumn anxieties when owners plan changes over days and weeks, not hours. Slow and steady genuinely wins with digestion.Your spring turnout timeline: day-by-day to 24/7 grazingAllow 24 weeks to move from winter forage to full spring turnout; start with just 1530 minutes of grazing on day one and build gradually. Keep the same hay available throughout this period so the hindgut always has familiar fibre.Use this step-by-step as a backbone and adjust for your horses age, condition, and history of laminitis or colic:Days 13: 1530 minutes of grass once daily, then back to hay/haylage. Offer a small hay feed immediately before turnout to take the edge off hunger.Days 47: Increase to 4590 minutes daily. If calm and coping, split into two shorter sessions (e.g., 2 45 minutes) to spread sugar intake.Week 2: Add 30 minutes every day or two, moving towards 34 hours of turnout. Keep hay available in the field or on return to the stable.Weeks 34: Progress to half days, then full days. Many horses can be out 24/7 by the end of week 3 or 4, provided hay is still offered and field quality suits.For good doers or horses with metabolic risk, slow the increases and consider capping at 24 hours for longer before extending. Use strip grazing so youre only offering a narrow ribbon of fresh grass each day, which helps both gut and pasture adapt. Remember, its better to be slightly over-cautious than to deal with laminitis or digestive fallout mid-season.Allow at least 2 weeks for the transition to pasture grass, but preferably a little longer. Maartje Reitsma, Nutritionist at Hartog (Hartog)Quick tip: Continue feeding the same hay you used all winter during the first few weeks of turnout. Depending on the grass, trim hay quantities slowly but never remove roughage entirely.Keep weight and laminitis risk in check all spring and summerPrevent spring/summer weight gain with a grazing muzzle, strip grazing, and choosing longer, more fibrous spent grass where possible. The goal is to slow intake and flatten sugar spikes without restricting forage altogether.Strategies that work:Grazing muzzles: Ideal for ponies and good doers, they reduce grass intake while still allowing natural movement and social turnout.Strip grazing: Move the fence forward a small step each day; never open a large new area at once. This protects your gut plan and your sward.Timing: In many UK regions, day turnout is kinder to fields than night turnout in early spring and autumn because moisture and frost are more damaging overnight. Daytime turnout also helps you monitor intake closely.Field selection: Opt for fields with longer, less palatable grass; its naturally slower eating than lush, short regrowth.It is better to be a little too cautious and prevent problems than to restrict grazing only when a horse starts showing symptoms. Maartje Reitsma, Nutritionist at Hartog (Hartog)Pro tip: Pair restricted grazing with slow-feeding hay nets so your horse has fibre on board every 4 hours. For additional support, many owners use targeted digestive and hoof supplements during peak grass months; brands like NAF supplements are popular with our customers for gut and metabolic support.Switching from summer to winter: make stabling gradualWhen moving from living out to a stabled routine, bring your horse in for an extra 10 minutes per day for the first couple of weeks. Build a predictable pattern of turnout, stable time, and feeding so the change feels calm and familiar.Why this matters: routine changes can be as stressful as diet changes. A gradual stabling ramp-up reduces pacing, weaving, and fence-walking. Keep hay available in the stable immediately so theres no forage gap, and enrich the environment with toys or small, frequent hay nets to extend chewing time. Maintain at least 4-hourly access to roughage overnight using paired small nets or slow feeders.Practical winter switch checklist:Week 1: Stable 3060 minutes earlier each day; maintain a short day turnout window to keep movement and social contact.Week 2: Continue adding 1020 minutes to stable time daily until you reach your target routine (e.g., day turnout, night in).Match forage: If youre moving from good summer grass to hay/haylage, introduce the conserved forage fully before stabling for long periods so the hindgut adapts while turnout is still generous.Protect pasture: In late autumn and winter, UK best practice is day turnout rather than night turnout to limit frost damage and poaching.Quick tip: If your horse becomes door-bound at dusk, shift feeding times to just after stabling so the stable equals a meal, not the end of freedom.Winter pasture management in the UK: pick the right field and protect itUse your best-draining paddock for winter, check water daily for freezing, and provide natural or manmade shelter. Rotate fields to allow recovery and support sward health through wet, frosty months.The British Horse Society (BHS) recommends 11.5 acres (0.40.6 hectares) per horse on permanent grazing. Adequate space, sensible stocking density, and rotation limit mud, protect roots, and reduce the chance of mud fever and lost shoes. If you have multiple paddocks, rest the worst-draining ones through the wettest months and concentrate winter turnout where ground holds up best.Essential UK winter field tasks:Water: Check troughs daily for ice; heated buckets or tank de-icers keep horses drinking, reducing impaction colic risk. Insulate exposed pipes.Shelter: Use hedges/trees where safe; add field shelters as leaves fall. Rug appropriately for comfort when wet, windy, or cold.Drainage: Keep ditches clear; repair gateways; use hardcore in high-traffic areas to protect turf and tendons.Hazards (autumn to early winter): Monitor for acorns and sycamore seeds (SeptNov), pull ragwort rosettes early, and check for burrow holes along boundaries.Weather-led turnout: In severe storms or freezethaw, stable or reduce turnout time to prevent slips and field damage.Pro tip: Coordinate turnout with neighbours so horses arent left isolated; it reduces stress behaviours and pacing that chew up winter paddocks.Feed for the season: from latesummer hay topups to winter rationsIncrease hay from late summer as pasture quality declines, and maintain roughage access at least every 4 hours yearround. Introduce any forage change gradually including hay to haylage to keep the hindgut settled.From August onwards in many parts of the UK, grass loses nutrients and volume. Begin topping up with the same hay you plan to feed in winter so your horse maintains body condition before the cold sets in. Its far easier to keep weight on through winter than to add it during prolonged wet and cold spells. Through spring, reduce hay only as the field reliably provides; for good doers, keep some hay in slow nets to maintain the chew time even if total calories are trimmed.Hydration is nonnegotiable in winter. Warmer water and reliable deicers encourage steady drinking, supporting gut motility. If you use digestive support, choose reputable formulas and introduce them over several days. Many owners trust NAF supplements and other options within our supplements range speak to your vet if your horse has a history of colic or metabolic issues.Quick tip: Keep feeding routines boringly consistent. Same hay, similar meal timing, and small changes, spaced out your horses microbiome thrives on predictability.Rugs, water and safety kit that make transitions easierMost UK horses need lightweight to medium turnout rugs as temperatures fall, plus reliable water heating and visibility gear. Match rug weight to weather and your horses clip and condition, not the calendar.Rugs and stable comfort:Turnout: As temperatures drop towards 5C with wind and rain, many unclipped horses are comfortable in 0150g rugs; finer types or clipped horses often need 200300g. Explore our curated winter turnout rugs, including trusted WeatherBeeta turnout rugs designed for UK weather.Stabling: Overnight in unheated UK stables, rug for dryness and draughts. Our stable rugs range covers light to medium weights for changing conditions.Brands to rely on: Our customers rate the fit and durability of Shires rugs and yard essentials season after season.Yard and rider essentials:Water systems: Heated buckets or safe deicers prevent freezing and support hydration.Visibility: Dark mornings and early dusks demand hivis for riders and horses for hacking and yard safety.Footing: Waterproof, grippy riding and yard boots keep you surefooted on slime and frost.Pro tip: If youre refreshing kit for the season, check our rotating clearance deals in The Secret Tack Room for value on last seasons colours and lines.FAQsWhy cant I just turn my horse out on spring grass for several hours on day one?Lush spring grass is high in sugars and starches, while winter guts are adapted to hay. A sudden change overwhelms the hindgut and can cause colic or diarrhoea. Start with 1530 minutes and build over 24 weeks, keeping hay available during the transition (Your Horse, Hartog).How long does it take to reach 24/7 turnout in spring?Most horses adapt safely in 24 weeks. Sensitive horses, those with past laminitis, or those on very rich pasture may need longer and tighter control of intake, such as strip grazing and muzzles.Should I stop giving hay once my horse has spring grass?No. Keep offering the same hay through the first weeks of grazing and reduce slowly as field forage increases. Maintain access to fibre at least every 4 hours, including overnight.Whats the best way to prevent weight gain in spring and summer?Use a grazing muzzle, strip graze small daily areas, and pick fields with longer, less palatable grass. Combine with slowfeeding hay nets and regular body condition scoring to keep laminitis risk low.When should I increase hay for winter?Begin topping up hay in late summer (often August onwards) as pasture quality dips. Enter winter at a healthy body condition so youre maintaining, not trying to add weight in the cold.How much land do I need per horse for healthy grazing?The British Horse Society advises 11.5 acres (0.40.6 hectares) per horse on permanent grazing. Rotate fields and protect winter paddocks by choosing the bestdraining ground.Is day or night turnout better in winter?Day turnout typically protects UK pastures better, as frost and night moisture can worsen poaching and sward damage. Choose your bestdraining winter paddock and monitor ground conditions daily.With a deliberate, weekbyweek plan, youll keep the gut steady, the waistline sensible, and your fields thriving. If you need help tailoring rugs, forage, or kit for your yard, our team at Just Horse Riders is here to help and our ranges of turnout rugs, stable rugs, and hivis gear are ready for the season ahead. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. 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