Suggested URL slug: Meta title: Meta description: Blog excerpt:Mud fever is one of those winter problems that can creep up quickly & and once it's there, it can be stubborn.The most helpful approach is usually prevention and early management: keeping skin healthy, reducing constant wet/muddy exposure, and avoiding routines that accidentally make things worse.This guide keeps things practical and non-dramatic & and if your horse's legs are very sore, swollen, or you're worried about infection, it's always best to speak to your vet.What is mud fever? (simple explanation)Mud fever is a common name for skin irritation and infection on the lower legs, often around the pasterns. You might also hear it called pastern dermatitis.It typically shows up as:Red, sore skinScabs/crustsSwelling or heat in the areaSensitivity when you touch the legsWhy mud fever is worse in winterWinter creates the perfect conditions:Wet skin stays wet for longerMud and grit rub and irritateBacteria thrive in damp conditionsHorses may be turned out in the same muddy gateways/areas for weeksAdd feathers, thick coats, and less daylight for leg checks and its easy for early signs to be missed.Prevention routine (step-by-step)If you want one simple takeaway: keep legs as clean and dry as your routine allows, without over-washing.Step 1: Daily check (takes 30 seconds)Run your hand down each legFeel for heat, swelling, tendernessLook for early scabs or pink skinCatching it early is the biggest win.Step 2: Keep legs dry (practical drying tips)If legs are wet or muddy:Let mud dry naturally where possible, then brush off gentlyUse a clean towel to pat dry (don't rub hard)If you're washing, dry thoroughly afterwards especially in feathersIf you can, avoid leaving legs damp and then turning out again straight away.Step 3: Field management basics (where possible)Not everyone can change turnout, but small tweaks help:Avoid standing in the muddies gateways longer than necessaryRotate turnout areas if you have the optionUse hardstanding/shelter areas to give legs a break from constant wetStep 4: Barrier support (without overclaiming)Some owners use barrier creams/products to help protect skin from wet and mud.The key is: apply to clean, dry legs and keep an eye on the skin underneath.Step 5: Don't over-washOver-washing is one of the most common mistakes.Frequent washing can strip natural oilsWetting and not drying properly can make the problem worseScrubbing can damage already irritated skinIf you do wash, keep it gentle and dry thoroughly.Common mistakes that make mud fever worseWashing legs every day & then leaving them dampPicking scabs aggressively (can cause bleeding and more irritation)Covering wet legs and trapping moistureIgnoring early signs until it's painfulWhen to call the vetContact your vet if:Your horse is lame or very soreThe leg is hot, swollen, or the swelling is spreadingThere's discharge, a strong smell, or signs of infectionIt's not improving with basic managementYour horse has recurring mud fever every winter and you need a planFAQsWhat causes mud fever in horses?Usually a mix of wet skin, mud/grit irritation, and bacteria getting into damaged skin.Should I wash mud off every day?Not always. If you can let mud dry and brush off, it's often kinder than daily washing especially if drying properly is difficult.Is it better to clip feathers?Feathers can trap moisture and mud. Some owners clip for easier drying and checking, but it depends on the horse and your management.Can mud fever spread?It can affect multiple legs and can be passed via shared brushes/towels. Good hygiene helps.How do I dry my horse's legs properly?Pat dry with a clean towel and make sure feathers aren't staying damp. Give time for legs to fully dry before applying any products.Does turnout make mud fever worse?Constant wet/muddy turnout can increase risk, especially in gateways and high-traffic areas.Can mud fever come back every winter?Yes &some horses are more prone. A consistent prevention routine and early checks help reduce flare-ups.When should I call the vet?If there's lameness, swelling, heat, discharge, or it's not improving & get veterinary advice.Make winter leg care simplerIf your horse is prone to mud fever, the goal is a routine you can actually stick to: quick daily checks, gentle cleaning, thorough drying, and sensible turnout choices where possible.If you're stocking up for winter care, browse our horse care and stable essentials and consider gentle skin/coat support as part of an overall routine.Horse supplements (skin/coat and condition support): https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-supplementsFeeding equipment (buckets, tubs and more): https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-feeding-equipment

Choosing the right rug or accessory depends on your horses needs, the season, and your turnout or stable conditions. Heres a breakdown of the main types from the ranges covered above, with tips on when and why youd pick each style:Turnout Rugs0g/No Fill (Lightweight): Best for spring, summer, or mild wet weather. Protects against rain and wind without adding warmth. Great for horses that run hot or are living out.50g/100g (Light Insulation): Good for cool, wet days or clipped horses in mild weather. Adds a touch of warmth without overheating.150g/250g (Medium Insulation): Ideal for autumn and spring, or milder winter days. Suitable for most horses in moderate climates.300g (Heavyweight): Designed for cold winter conditions, older horses, or those who feel the cold. Provides maximum warmth and protection.Special Turnout StylesClassic Cut: Standard fit with shoulder darts for room and comfort. Works for most horses.High Neck: Extra coverage up the neck for horses prone to rain scald or those needing more front protection. No need for a separate neck cover.Full Neck: Complete protection from poll to tail, ideal for harsh weather or clipped horses.Big Neck: Wider fit for stallions, cobs, draughts, or horses with broad chests/shoulders.Pony Fit: Sized for poniessame features as horse rugs, just scaled down.Eco-Friendly (Greenline): Made from recycled materials for owners prioritising sustainability.Stable RugsStable Sheets (No Fill): For stable use in mild weather, travel, or as a show rug. Keeps dust off and coat smooth.150g/300g Stable Rugs: Warmth for stabled horses in cooler or cold weather. Choose fill based on your stables temperature and your horses needs.Coolers, Mesh, and Therapy RugsCoolers (e.g., Competition, Mesh): Used after work to wick moisture, cool the horse, or for travel. Mesh coolers are best for warm weather.Therapy Range: Uses stainless steel mesh to reflect magnetic fields, supporting circulation and recovery. Choose for horses with back issues, slow warm-up, or needing recovery support.Therapy Turnout: Combines weather protection and therapy benefitsideal for horses needing both.AccessoriesCombi/Neck Covers: Add to compatible rugs for extra neck protection. Choose insulated or uninsulated based on weather.Dog Bed Topper: For dogs needing extra recovery/comfort, especially older or working dogs.Fit & SizingSlim Fit (Freedom, Twill): Best for narrow or Thoroughbred types. Broader horses may need to size up or pick Big Neck styles.Shoulder Darts (Irish, Greenline): More tailored fit and freedom of movement.Quick-Reference TableRug TypeBest For0g/No Fill TurnoutRain protection, mild weather50g/100g TurnoutLight warmth, wet/cool days150g/250g TurnoutModerate warmth, autumn/spring300g TurnoutMaximum warmth, winterHigh/Full NeckExtra coverage, clipped horsesBig NeckBroad horses, stallions, cobsStable SheetMild stable, travel, show150g/300g StableCold stabling, clipped horsesTherapy RangeRecovery, circulation, back issuesMesh CoolerSummer cooling, after workEco-Friendly (Greenline)Sustainable choiceTip: Always measure your horse and check the fit notes for each range. Consider layering options and neck attachments for maximum flexibility.

Choosing a rug shouldnt feel like a maths exam. But when youre staring at 0g, 100g, 200g, 300g (and about 12 different weather forecasts), its easy to second-guess yourself.This guide keeps it simple: what those numbers actually mean, how to choose based on your horse and routine, and the signs to check so you can adjust with confidence.Quick answer: which rug weight should I choose?As a general starting point:0g: a waterproof layer for wet/windy days when your horse doesnt need extra warmth100g: a light bit of warmth for cool, damp weather or mild winter days200g: a mid-weight option for colder conditions, especially if clipped or out more300g: a heavier winter option for horses that feel the cold, are clipped, older, or struggle to hold weightUK weather varies wildly, so think of rugging as a check-and-adjust system, not a one-time decision.What does 0g / 100g / 200g / 300g actually mean?The g refers to the fill weight (usually in grams) inside the rug.0g = no fill (a shell)Higher number = more insulationIt doesnt automatically tell you everything about warmth, though. Other factors matter too:Rug fit (gaps let cold air in)Outer fabric and liningNeck cover vs no neckWhether your horse is wet underneath (sweat or rain)Rug weight decision checklistRun through these in order. Youll get to the right answer faster.1) Is your horse clipped?Clipping removes natural insulation.Fully/trace clipped: often needs more rug than an unclipped horseUnclipped: may need less, especially if living out with shelter and good forage2) Living out vs stabledLiving out: wind + rain can chill fast, even if temperatures arent that lowStabled: less wind/rain exposure, but some horses still get cold standing in3) Age and condition (good doer vs poor doer)Good doers: can often manage with less fill (and youll rely more on waterproofing and wind protection)Poor doers/veterans: may need more warmth to help maintain condition4) Whats your horse telling you?Dont guess from the forecast alone. Check your horse.Cold ears, tucked-up posture, shivering = likely too coldSweaty behind elbows/shoulders, damp coat, restlessness = likely too warmRug weights explained (with a simple comparison table)Rug weightWhat its best forTypical use case0gRain/wind protectionWet, mild days; unclipped horses; layering base100gLight warmthCool damp weather; mild winter; clipped horses on in-between days200gMid warmthColder spells; clipped horses; horses out longer300gMore warmthCold snaps; poor doers/veterans; clipped horses that feel the coldCommon rugging mistakes (and how to avoid them)Rugging to the calendar, not the horse: check daily and adjust.Too warm just in case: overheating can cause sweating and skin issues.Ignoring wind and rain: a windy wet day can feel colder than a dry frosty one.Poor fit: rubbing, pressure points, and cold drafts defeat the point.Not enough forage: horses stay warmer when they can eat plenty of fibre.How to tell if your horse is too hot or too coldSigns your horse may be too hotSweating under the rug (especially behind elbows/shoulders)Damp coat or clammy skinRestlessness, irritabilityRubbing or trying to roll more than usualSigns your horse may be too coldShiveringTense posture, tucked tailCold ears/skin (use your judgement some horses just have cool extremities)Looking miserable and not settlingIf youre unsure, its often safer to start slightly lighter and add warmth by layering or stepping up a weight once youve checked.FAQsIs a 200g rug warm enough for winter?For many horses, yes but it depends on clipping, living out vs stabled, age/condition, and weather (especially wind/rain).When should I use a 0g turnout rug?When you need waterproofing and wind protection without extra warmth common in mild wet weather or for good doers.Is it better to layer rugs?Layering can work well if rugs fit properly and your horse stays dry. Avoid bulky layers that restrict movement or cause rubbing.How do I know if my horse is too hot under a rug?Check for sweat or dampness under the rug and signs of discomfort. If in doubt, drop a weight and re-check later.Do unclipped horses need rugs?Some do, some dont. Unclipped horses living out with shelter and plenty of forage may cope well with minimal rugging.What rug weight for a clipped horse?Clipped horses often need more warmth. Many owners use 100g300g depending on clip type and conditions.Stable rug vs turnout rug: whats the difference?Turnout rugs are designed for weatherproofing outdoors. Stable rugs are for dry indoor use and usually arent waterproof.Can rugging cause sweating and skin problems?Over-rugging can lead to sweating, which can irritate skin and make horses uncomfortable. Daily checks help prevent this.What temperature is too cold for no rug?There isnt one universal number it depends on the horse, wind/rain, shelter, and forage. Use signs-based checks.Should I rug a pony?Many ponies are good doers and can overheat easily. Start lighter, monitor closely, and prioritise waterproofing and forage.Need help with winter routines?If youre building a simple winter setup, its worth checking your stable basics too forage, water, and condition support.Browse our horse rugs: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-supplements

Frozen buckets are more than an annoying winter chore. If your horse drinks less because the water is icy (or unavailable), you can quickly end up with a horse that isnt properly hydrated.This guide shares simple, realistic stable tips to help stop water freezing plus what to watch for if you suspect your horse isnt drinking enough.Why winter hydration matters (even when its cold)Horses still need plenty of water in winter. In fact, winter management can increase the risk of dehydration because:Horses often drink less when water is very coldThey may be eating more dry forage (hay)Buckets and troughs can freeze, reducing accessDehydration can contribute to digestive problems. If youre worried about colic or your horse seems unwell, speak to your vet.Quick fixes to stop water freezingYou dont need fancy kit to make a big difference. Start with the easiest wins.Bucket placement and insulation hacksMove buckets away from doors and draughts: wind chill freezes water faster.Keep buckets off cold concrete: if possible, place on rubber matting or a raised stand.Use two buckets: one can be swapped quickly while the other is being refilled.Try a larger bucket/tub: more volume can take longer to freeze.Insulate where safe: some owners use insulating covers or place buckets inside a larger tub.If you use any DIY insulation, make sure it cant be chewed or pulled into the bucket.Refresh schedule (little-and-often)A simple routine often beats any gadget:Top up morning + late afternoon + late evening during cold snapsBreak ice and replace water rather than leaving slushy water your horse wont touchIf you can, offer slightly warmed water (not hot) to encourage drinkingHow much water should a horse drink in winter?Theres no single perfect number because it depends on size, diet, workload, and weather.A good rule is: know whats normal for your horse.If your horse is suddenly drinking noticeably less (or youre emptying far fewer buckets than usual), treat it as a signal to investigate.Signs your horse isnt drinking enoughWatch for:Drier, smaller droppings than usualReduced appetite or leaving forageDullness or seeming offLess urine / darker urineDrinking eagerly when fresh water is offeredIf youre concerned, dont wait call your vet.Supporting hydration: salt/mineral licks and soaked feeds (general)Hydration isnt just about water its also about encouraging normal drinking.Salt/mineral licks can support normal intake for many horses (placement matters)Some horses drink better when water is not ice-coldSoaked feeds (where appropriate) can add extra moisture to the dietAvoid making sudden changes. If youre unsure whats suitable for your horse, speak to a vet or equine nutritionist.Stable checklist for cold snapsWater available at all times (not frozen)Buckets positioned away from draughtsSpare bucket ready to swapSalt/mineral lick accessibleForage topped up (fibre helps keep horses warm)Quick check: droppings, appetite, behaviourFAQsHow do I stop my horses bucket freezing overnight?Move buckets away from draughts, use a larger bucket if possible, and refresh late evening. Some owners use insulated setups just keep everything safe and chew-proof.Do horses drink less in winter?Many do, especially if water is very cold or partially frozen.How can I encourage my horse to drink more?Offer fresh water more often, consider slightly warmed water, and make sure salt/minerals are available (if appropriate).Can dehydration cause colic?Dehydration can contribute to digestive issues. If youre concerned about colic risk, speak to your vet.Is warm water safe for horses?Slightly warmed water is commonly used in winter. Avoid hot water and introduce changes gradually.Should I add salt to my horses feed?Some horses benefit from added salt, but needs vary. If youre unsure, ask your vet or an equine nutritionist.How often should I change water in winter?During cold snaps, little-and-often works well refresh whenever it starts icing over.What if my horse refuses to drink?Treat it seriously. Offer fresh water, check for freezing issues, and contact your vet if intake stays low.Make winter hydration easierIf frozen water is a constant battle, focus on the basics: reliable water access, a simple refresh routine, and supportive stable setup.Horse salt & mineral licks: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-salt-mineral-licksFeeding equipment (buckets, tubs and more): https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-feeding-equipment

How Much Hay Should a Horse Eat in Winter? (Simple Guide + Handy Tables)When the grass stops growing and the temperature drops, forage stops being just part of the diet and becomes the diet. The good news: you dont need to overcomplicate it.This guide gives you a simple winter rule of thumb, easy tables you can use like a calculator, and a few practical tweaks that can help your horse keep condition without turning half the hay into bedding.Quick answer: how much hay per day in winter?Most horses do well on around 1.5%2% of their bodyweight per day in forage (on a dry matter basis). In winter, many horses end up towards the higher end because:Grazing is limitedThey burn more energy keeping warmThey may be stabled for longerPractical starting point:Good doers / easy keepers: aim around 1.5%Average horses at maintenance: aim around 2%Poor doers / older horses / weight loss: you may need 2%+ (with guidance)If youre worried about weight loss, colic risk, or a sudden change in droppings/appetite, speak to your vet or an equine nutritionist.Rule of thumb by bodyweight (simple table)Use this like a quick calculator. Its a starting point youll fine-tune based on condition, workload, and how much is actually being eaten (not just offered).Horse bodyweight1.5% forage/day2% forage/day300kg (small pony)4.5kg6kg400kg6kg8kg500kg7.5kg10kg600kg9kg12kg700kg (large horse)10.5kg14kgQuick note on as fed vs actually eatenIf your horse wastes hay (very common in winter), you may need to offer more than the target so they consume enough.When to feed more in winterYou may need to increase forage (or reduce waste) if you notice:Cold snaps (especially if your horse is out, clipped, or exposed)Weight loss or a dropping toplineOlder/veteran horses struggling to keep conditionMore time stabled with less movement and less grazingMore work (even if its just more hacking)Tip: make changes gradually. Sudden jumps in forage type/amount can upset the gut.Hay vs haylage in winter: whats the difference?Both can work brilliantly the key is understanding that theyre not always swap like for like.The simple versionHay is drier.Haylage contains more moisture.So, to provide the same amount of dry matter (the bit that counts nutritionally), you often need to feed more haylage by weight than hay.Which is better for winter?It depends (sorry but its true). Consider:Dust sensitivity: haylage is often lower dust, which can help some horsesWeight gain/condition: some horses maintain better on haylage, but it varies by batchStorage and waste: haylage can spoil if not stored/used correctlyIf youre changing forage type, do it slowly and keep an eye on droppings and appetite.How to reduce hay waste (and save money)Winter hay bills hurt most when half the forage ends up trampled, weed on the floor, or dragged into the bed.Hay nets vs feeders vs floor feeding (pros/cons)Hay netsPros: reduces trampling, can slow intake, keeps hay cleanerCons: some horses get frustrated; check fit and safety; avoid tiny holes for horses that need to eat moreHay feeders / hay racks / mangersPros: keeps hay off the floor, can reduce waste, good for larger amountsCons: depends on stable/field setup; still needs regular cleaningFloor feedingPros: more natural head/neck positionCons: easiest to waste; can get mixed with bedding/mud; can be hard to monitor intakeIf your horse is a serial waster, the right system is the one that helps them eat more and waste less.If youre looking for simple ways to cut waste, browse our horse feeding essentials here: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-feeding-equipmentWinter feeding for different types of horsesGood doersIf your horse gains weight easily:Start around 1.5% bodyweight/day and adjust slowlyPrioritise waste reduction (its the easiest win)Consider using small-holed nets only if your horse is coping and not getting stressedPoor doers / veteransIf your horse drops weight in winter:Aim closer to 2%+ forage intakeSplit forage into more top-ups so theyre rarely without something to nibbleConsider adding condition support (with appropriate advice)A gentle place to start is our horse supplements collection: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-supplementsHorses in work vs not in workIn work: may need more forage (and/or additional calories) to hold weightNot in work: still needs plenty of fibre for gut health and warmth dont cut forage too hardSigns your horse isnt getting enough forageLook for:Empty net/bare stable for long periodsWeight loss, ribs showing, dropping toplineIncreased wood chewing or stable vicesChanges in droppings (very dry, reduced amount) or reduced appetiteIf anything feels off, its worth getting professional input early.Practical winter stable checklist (forage + water + salt)A calm, simple routine beats overthinking.Forage: enough to last through the longest gap (often overnight)Water: always available and not freezingSalt/minerals: access to a suitable salt or mineral lickMonitoring: quick daily check of body condition, droppings, and how much is actually eatenBrowse horse salt & mineral licks here: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-salt-mineral-licksFAQsHow much hay should a 500kg horse eat in winter?A useful starting point is 7.5kg/day (1.5%) to 10kg/day (2%) of forage intake, then adjust based on condition, workload, and waste.Should horses have hay overnight in winter?Many do best when theyre not left without forage for long periods, especially in winter when grazing is limited.Is it OK to feed hay on the ground?It can be, but its often easier to waste and can get mixed with bedding/mud. A feeder can help keep it cleaner.How do I know if my horse needs more hay?Watch body condition, topline, and whether theyre finishing forage quickly and then standing with nothing to eat.Does a horse need more hay when its freezing?Often, yes especially if theyre out, clipped, older, or losing weight. Increase gradually and monitor.Hay vs haylage: which is better for weight gain?It depends on the forage quality and the individual horse. Because haylage is wetter, you may need to feed more by weight to match hays dry matter.Can too much hay cause colic?Sudden changes, poor-quality forage, or dehydration can contribute to digestive issues. If youre concerned about colic risk, speak to your vet.How can I stop my horse wasting hay?Try a hay net, feeder, or rack, and keep hay off wet/dirty ground. Waste reduction is often the cheapest extra feed.How much hay should a pony eat in winter?Many ponies do well around 1.5% bodyweight/day, but it depends on condition and workload. Use the table above as a starting point.Do horses need salt in winter?Many benefit from access to salt/minerals year-round, especially if theyre not licking enough naturally or are on soaked feeds. If unsure, ask a professional.Ready to make winter feeding easier?If youre topping up forage, supporting condition, or simply trying to keep winter routines simple, take a look at our most-used winter essentials:Horse supplements: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-supplementsHorse salt & mineral licks: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-salt-mineral-licksHorse feeding equipment (hay nets, feeders, buckets and more): https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/collections/new-horse-feeding-equipmentAnd if you want the non-winter version too, read our main guide here: https://www.chestnutmill.co.uk/blogs/equestrian-articles/how-much-hay-should-a-horse-eat-a-horse-hay-calculator-guide?_pos=24&_sid=ecd7a43e0&_ss=r

Spring is a welcome change for horses and humans alike longer days, brighter mornings, and the chance to reset routines after winter. But for many yards, spring also brings a familiar mix of challenges: changing grass, fluctuating temperatures, muddy gateways, and horses that suddenly feel a bit too fresh.A simple checklist now can make the season smoother, help protect condition, and avoid lastminute runs for essentials.1) Review feed as grazing changesSpring grass can be unpredictable. Some horses drop weight as workloads increase, while gooddoers can gain quickly as the grass comes through. Nows a great time to:Check body condition and adjust feed graduallyKeep forage consistent where possibleAdd a balancer or targeted supplements to support overall health through the transition2) Refresh your daily care kitSpring is when small issues can creep in rubs, minor skin irritation, and the first wave of insects. Stock up on the practical horse care items you actually use, so youre not caught short when the weather turns overnight. A quick yard kit refresh can include:Grooming and stable essentialsHoof and leg care basicsSeasonal skin and coat support3) Check horse wear for comfort and fitEven in spring, cold snaps and showers are common. Lightweight rugs and turnout essentials can make a real difference to comfort especially for clipped horses, older horses, or those living out. Its also a good time to check fit, fastenings, and replace anything thats worn or rubbing.Make yard life easier with bulk delivery and subscriptionsIf youre running a yard (or just juggling a busy routine), convenience matters. Chestnut Mill offers bulk deliveries of feed, bedding, and hay, plus subscription options on key products so you can plan ahead, save more over time, and avoid running out at the wrong moment.

As the days grow shorter and the nights cooler, autumn brings big changes to your horses environmentand their nutritional needs. Late summer grass can be lush, but as temperatures dip and growth slows, the nutritional value of pasture drops. This shift can affect your horses energy, weight, and even their mood. Heres how to adapt your feeding routine to keep your horse healthy, happy, and in top condition through the autumn months.How Autumn Affects Your Horses DietChanging Grass Quality:After a summer of rich grazing, autumn grass often looks green but contains less energy and fewer nutrients. As growth slows, fibre content goes up and sugar levels can fluctuate, especially after cool nights and rainy spells.Energy and Condition:Horses may need extra calories to maintain weight as the weather cools, especially if theyre clipped, older, or in regular work.Mood and Behaviour:Sudden changes in forage quality or routine can affect your horses temperament. Some horses become sharper, while others may seem more sluggish.Tips for Adjusting Your Horses Feed Routine1. Monitor Body Condition CloselyCheck your horses weight and condition every couple of weeks. Use a weight tape and feel for fat cover along the ribs, neck, and hindquarters. Adjust feed before you see a dramatic change.2. Balance Forage and Hard FeedIf grass is limited or quality is poor, supplement with good-quality hay or haylage.For horses in light work or prone to weight gain, a balancer can provide essential vitamins and minerals without extra calories.If your horse needs more energy, consider adding fibre-based feeds (like beet pulp or chaff) rather than jumping straight to high-starch mixes.3. Watch for Laminitis RisksAutumn flushes of grass can still be risky for horses prone to laminitis. Monitor sugar intake and restrict grazing if needed, especially after rain or cold nights.4. Support Digestive HealthChanges in routine and diet can upset the gut. Feed plenty of fibre, make any changes gradually, and consider a digestive supplement if your horse is sensitive.5. Dont Forget Water and SaltAs temperatures drop, horses may drink less. Always provide fresh water and consider offering a salt lick to encourage healthy hydration.Never Run Out: The Benefits of Feed SubscriptionRunning out of feed can be stressful for you and disruptive for your horse. Our feed subscription service lets you set up regular deliveries of your chosen productsso you always have what you need, when you need it. You can adjust, pause, or cancel at any time, making it a simple way to keep your horses routine consistent all autumn long.Explore Our Autumn Feeding RangeFrom balancers and fibre feeds to digestive supplements and haylage, our full range of horse feeds and supplements has everything you need to keep your horse healthy this season. Not sure whats right for your horse? Get in touch for friendly advice.

As late summer gives way to autumn, caring for your horses hooves becomes even more important. Wetter weather, lush grass, and muddy paddocks can all increase the risk of common issues like mud fever and laminitis. With a few simple routines, you can help your horse transition safely into the new season and avoid costly problems.Why Late Summer and Autumn Pose Extra Hoof RisksDuring this seasonal change, the combination of heavy dew, sudden rain, and longer periods of damp create the perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungal issues. Meanwhile, sugar content in grass can spike after rainfall and cooler nights, raising the risk of laminitisespecially for horses and ponies with metabolic sensitivities or those carrying extra weight.Mud Fever: Prevention and Early ActionWhat is mud fever?Mud fever (pastern dermatitis) is a skin infection affecting the lower legs, caused by bacteria that thrive in wet, muddy conditions. It often starts as small scabs or sores on the heels or pasterns and can quickly become painful.Prevention tips:Daily leg checks:Run your hands down each leg, checking for heat, swelling, or scabs.Keep legs clean and dry:Gently hose off mud after turnout and dry thoroughly.Barrier creams:Apply before turnout if your horse is prone to mud fever.Stable management:Provide a dry standing area or bring your horse in during the wettest parts of the day.Laminitis: Why Its Still a Risk in AutumnWhat is laminitis?Laminitis is a painful inflammation of the sensitive tissues inside the hoof. While often associated with spring, autumn flushes of grass can be just as risky.Watch for:Sudden weight gain or a cresty neckReluctance to walk, stiffness, or shifting weightWarm hooves or a strong digital pulsePrevention tips:Monitor grazing:Limit turnout on lush grass, especially after rain or frosty nights.Balanced diet:Use a low-sugar, high-fibre diet and consider a balancer or supplement for hoof support.Regular exercise:Keeps weight and metabolism in check.Daily Autumn Hoof Care RoutinePick out hooves after every turnoutAutumn mud and stones can pack tightly into hooves, increasing the risk of thrush and bruising. Picking out hooves daily helps spot problems early.Inspect for cracks, heat, or swellingEarly intervention is keylook for anything unusual and act quickly if you notice changes.Keep bedding clean and dryWet bedding can be just as damaging as muddy fields. Regular mucking out helps keep hooves healthy.Book regular farrier visitsEven if your horse isnt in full work, consistent trimming is essential to prevent overgrowth, flaring, and imbalance.Supporting Hoof Health from the InsideNutrition is the foundation of healthy hooves. If your horse is on restricted grazing or a forage-only diet, consider:A quality hoof supplement(look for biotin, methionine, zinc, and copper)A balancerto ensure all essential vitamins and minerals are coveredIf youre unsure which supplement is best, consult your vet or nutritionist.When to Call the Vet or FarrierSeek professional advice if you notice:Persistent lameness or reluctance to moveSudden swelling, heat, or deep cracksBleeding or foul-smelling dischargeSigns of severe laminitis (e.g., lying down, obvious pain)Explore Our Hoof Care RangeFor a full range of tried-and-trusted hoof care products, including supplements, creams, and tools, visit our Hoof Care Collection.

If youre searching for the best bedding for your horse, theres one name that stands out above the rest: Bedmax. And now, thanks to a major independent UK study, you dont just have to take our word for itBedmax has officially been ranked number one among the UKs leading horse bedding brands.Bedmax: Proven Performance in the First Major UK Bedding StudyThe study, carried out by renowned equine health and performance expert Dr David Marlin of Animalweb, set out to compare the top 12 bedding brands available in the UK. The goal? To give horse owners a clear, unbiased look at how different bedding options perform in the areas that matter most for horse health and stable management.Heres how Bedmax came out on top across four crucial categories:1. Dust Content Breathe EasyBedmax shavings are specially manufactured to be low in breathable dust. This is vital for maintaining healthy respiratory systems in both horses and their handlers. Less dust means a cleaner, safer environment for everyone in the stable.2. Hygiene & Biosecurity Cleaner, Healthier StablesThe study measured levels of bacteria, mould, and Aspergillus (a common stable fungus). Bedmax scored highest for hygiene, helping to protect your horse from harmful microbes and supporting overall stable biosecurity.3. Absorbency Superior Moisture ControlNobody wants a damp, smelly stable. Bedmax shavings excelled in moisture absorbency, keeping stables drier, fresher, and more comfortable for your horse.4. Spread Volume More Coverage, Less HassleBedmax delivers excellent spread volume per bale at a 10cm depth, making it easy to achieve full, even coverage. This means you get more for your money and less time spent topping up bedding.Save Even More with Chestnut Mill Pallet DealsReady to make the switch to Bedmax? At Chestnut Mill, you can save even more by buying in bulk. Our pallet deals offer fantastic value for busy yards and savvy horse ownersperfect for keeping your stable well-stocked and your costs down.Check out Bedmax Shavings and our pallet savings here.Give your horse the bestchoose Bedmax, the UKs top-rated bedding, and enjoy extra savings when you buy by the pallet from Chestnut Mill.

When summer arrives, so do the fliesand they can make life miserable for your horse. A well-fitted fly rug is one of the best ways to keep biting insects at bay, prevent irritation, and protect sensitive skin. But to do its job, your fly rug needs to fit properly. Heres how to get it right every time.Why Fit MattersA fly rug thats too tight can rub and restrict movement, while one thats too loose can slip, twist, or let flies get underneath. The right fit keeps your horse comfortable, safe, and fully protected.Step-by-Step Guide to Fitting a Fly Rug1.Start with the Right SizeMeasure your horse:Use a soft tape measure from the centre of the chest, along the side, to the point of the rump (where you want the rug to end).Check the size guide:Each brand may size slightly differentlyalways check the manufacturers chart before buying.Try on the rug:The rug should sit neatly at the chest without pulling or gaping, and cover the body to just before the tail.2.Check the Fit at Key PointsChest and Shoulders:Fasten the chest straps so the rug sits flat but isnt tight. You should be able to slide your hand in easily.Neck (if applicable):If your rug has a neck cover, make sure it sits smoothly without restricting movement or rubbing the mane.Withers and Back:The rug should lie flat along the withers and back, with no pressure points.Belly and Side Straps:Belly straps should be snug but not tightideally, you should fit a hands width between the strap and the belly. Cross surcingles (if present) should form an X under the belly and not hang loose.Leg Straps:If your rug has leg straps, adjust them so theyre not too tight but will prevent the rug from slipping sideways. Again, a hands width is a good guide.3.Check for MovementWalk your horse:Lead your horse around and watch how the rug moves. It should stay in place and allow free movement of the shoulders and hindquarters.Check for rubbing:After a short period of wear, check for any signs of rubbing at the shoulders, withers, or hips.4.Adjust as NeededReadjust straps:Rugs can settle and stretch a little with use, so check the fit regularly, especially after the first few wears.Replace if outgrown:Horses can change shape over the seasonif your horse gains or loses weight or muscle, remeasure and check the fit.Top Tips for Fly Rug SuccessChoose a breathable, lightweight rugfor hot weatherlook for features like UV protection and fine mesh.Wash rugs regularlyto prevent build-up of sweat and dirt, which can cause rubbing.Inspect for damagerepair any tears or broken straps promptly to keep the rug secure and effective.Consider a fly maskfor extra protection around the face and eyes.Shop Fly Rugs at Chestnut MillReady to protect your horse from summer pests? Explore our range of fly sheets and rugs from trusted brands like Bucasdesigned for comfort, coverage, and style.