In partnership withEquisafetyYour horse is all tacked up and ready to go out, but then your phone rings. Your riding buddy has had to cancel. Your mind is filled with a sense of dread as you psyche yourself up for yet another fraught, anxious, solo hack filled with napping and spooking. Soon you decide it would be best to ditch the whole notion and stay home and school instead.Sound familiar?Lots of horses act completely differently when riding out with their equine buddies compared to going solo theyll be a perfect angel in company, but turn into a snorting dragon when theyre alone.At Your Horse we believe that hacking is one of the great joys of owning a horse, and that you should be able to look forward to riding out. So, if this isnt what youre experiencing at the moment, try our top tips for a happy solo hacking experience.Step by stepWhen trying anything new, the important thing is to take it slowly. If your horse is nervous when theyre on their own, is young or a bit green, or if they simply want to be back in their field, its essential to make hacking a fun experience.Start small just ride up the driveway, turn around and come back. Little by little, extend the distance and before you know it, youll be out for hours!If your horse stops or spooks at something, let them have a minute, then ask them to walk on. Be soothing and gentle, encouraging them forwards. Think relaxed and try to avoid tensing up your horse will feel this and stress even more.You may find that your horse picks certain spots where theyll nap. Here the most important thing to do is not give in and turn for home. Instead, encourage them forwards youre in charge and they dont get to dictate how long you stay out for.Also, dont be afraid to explore new routes. In fact, thats one of the best things you can do with a spooky or nappy horse. This way they get to see new things, have new experiences and grow in confidence.Remember that every horse and rider is different, so there are lots of things you can try. If your horse gets quite fizzy when out on their own, lunge them before you set off. If your own confidence has been knocked by previous solo hacking incidents, go out with another rider, but ask them to hang back, or leapfrog with your horse so that they get used to going on ahead and being further away from their companion. Having someone on foot will also help, or you could start by taking your horse out in hand. Youll be able to communicate with them from the ground, helping them to be less afraid of scary objects.Playing leapfrogThis is a great technique to improve your horses confidence while hacking solo.How to ride it:When riding out with a companion let your horse walk out in front and then calmly bring them to a halt while the other horse walks past.Wait for them to get a few metres ahead and then ask the other rider to halt as you calmly walk past them.Try the same in trot, but instead of halting, walk.Leapfrog with each other throughout your hack so that your horse gets used to the idea of going ahead, then going behind, and being some distance away from the other horse.Gradually, you can increase the distances and change the pace.This content is brought to you in partnership withEquisafety, high viz clothing for horses and riders.Further readingHow to deal with a horse napping out hackingIs your horse spooked by sheep or cowardly around cows? Top tips for passing livestock with confidenceTwo exercises to encourage a keen horse to relax and focusThe post Could leapfrogging be the secret to hacking your horse solo? appeared first on Your Horse.

Howley and Swail bag five-star international victories The Underwriting Exchange Irish Show Jumping Team finished a gallant runner-up following a jump-off in the EEF Longines CSIO3* Nations Cup Region West qualifier at Roeser, Luxembourg this afternoon (Friday). The Irish team of Max Wachman with the Irish Sport Horse Kilkenny, Michael Duffy with Clitschko 17, Tom Wachman with Cathalina S and Ireland stalwart Cian OConnor with Fancy De Kergane, led by Michael Blake, were just pipped to the victory by an impressive Belgian team. After a tense finish to the second round of jumping, which saw OConnor hold his nerve to produce a double clear round on the nine-year-old and force the jump-off, two poles down on the Kildare athletes third effort of the afternoon meant Belgium could land the victory. Horse Sport Ireland High Performance Show Jumping Director Blake said: I suppose you could say thats one that got away. []

Key PointDescriptionImportance of MagnesiumInvolved in over 300 metabolic processes; vital for muscle function, nerve function, stress tolerance, insulin sensitivity, and bone health.Muscle Function and RelaxationRegulates muscle contractions with calcium; prevents muscle cramps, spasms, and pain, especially after intense exercise.Nervous System SupportRegulates ion balance across cell membranes; reduces nervousness, excitability, and anxiety.Stress Tolerance and RecoveryImproves tolerance to stress; speeds up recovery after exposure to stressors.Insulin Sensitivity and Metabolic HealthHelps cells respond to insulin; improves insulin sensitivity, particularly in overweight horses, preventing conditions like laminitis.Bone HealthAids in calcium absorption; supports healthy bone development and maintenance.Signs of Magnesium DeficiencyNervousness, anxiety, muscle tremors, cramps, hypersensitivity to sound and movement, irritability, resistance to training, fatigue, irregular heartbeat.Factors Leading to DeficiencyDiet composition, soil quality, and exercise frequency can lead to magnesium deficiency.Supplementation StrategiesAnalyse diet, use various magnesium sources, follow dosage recommendations, and employ proper feeding practices.Magnesium SourcesMagnesium oxide (highly absorbable, cost-effective), magnesium citrate and sulphate (effective but may require larger doses).Dosage Recommendations15 mg per kg of body weight; for a 500 kg horse, 7.5 g per day. Up to 15 g per day for horses in intense exercise.Feeding PracticesDivide daily magnesium dosage into two meals; gradually increase the dose.Magnesium for Horses: Benefits and SupplementationMagnesium is an essential mineral that plays a crucial role in the overall health and well-being of horses. From supporting muscle function to enhancing stress tolerance, magnesium is vital for various physiological processes. In this blog, we will explore the benefits of magnesium for horses and provide insights into effective supplementation strategies.The Importance of Magnesium for HorsesMagnesium is involved in over 300 metabolic processes in the horse's body, making it indispensable for maintaining optimal health. Here are some key benefits of magnesium for horses:1. Muscle Function and Relaxation Magnesium works closely with calcium to regulate muscle contractions. When muscles contract, calcium is released onto muscle fibres. Magnesium then helps to push calcium back into storage, allowing muscles to relax. This process is essential for preventing muscle cramps, spasms, and pain, especially after intense exercise. This balance between magnesium and calcium is what keeps your horse's muscles functioning smoothly and efficiently.2. Nervous System Support Magnesium plays a critical role in nerve function by regulating ion balance across cell membranes. This helps nerve cells transmit signals efficiently, reducing the likelihood of nervousness, excitability, and anxiety in horses. A calm and focused horse is more likely to perform well in training and competition. Just like humans, horses benefit greatly from a balanced nervous system, ensuring they stay cool and collected under pressure.3. Stress Tolerance and RecoveryStress depletes magnesium levels in the body, making it essential to ensure adequate intake. Optimal magnesium levels can improve a horse's tolerance to stress and speed up recovery after exposure to stressors. This is particularly important for horses that undergo frequent training or competition. Think of magnesium as a stress shield, helping your horse bounce back faster and stay resilient.4. Insulin Sensitivity and Metabolic HealthMagnesium helps cells respond to insulin, which is crucial for maintaining healthy blood sugar levels. Supplementation with magnesium can improve insulin sensitivity, particularly in overweight horses, and may help prevent conditions like laminitis. By supporting metabolic health, magnesium ensures your horse stays fit and healthy, avoiding the pitfalls of metabolic disorders.5. Bone Health Magnesium aids in the absorption of calcium from the diet, supporting healthy bone development and maintenance. This is especially important for growing horses and those with high physical demands. Strong bones are the foundation of a strong horse, and magnesium plays a key role in building and maintaining this foundation.Signs of Magnesium DeficiencyWhile severe magnesium deficiency is rare, mild to moderate deficiency can occur and affect a horse's mood and performance. Common signs of magnesium deficiency include:Nervousness and anxietyMuscle tremors and crampsHypersensitivity to sound and movementIrritability and resistance to trainingFatigue and irregular heartbeatFactors Leading to Magnesium DeficiencySeveral factors can contribute to magnesium deficiency in horses:Diet Composition Fast-growing grasses, often low in magnesium, can lead to deficiency, especially in the spring. High-fibre, oxalate, phosphate, and fat content in forage can also reduce magnesium absorption. Ensuring your horse's diet is balanced and contains enough magnesium-rich foods is crucial to prevent deficiency.Soil QualityForage grown on acidic or clay soils may have lower magnesium levels throughout the year. Understanding the soil composition of your grazing fields can help you anticipate and manage potential deficiencies in your horse's diet.Exercise Horses that exercise frequently lose magnesium through sweat, increasing their dietary needs. Active horses, especially those in regular training or competition, may require additional magnesium to replace what is lost during intense physical activity.Supplementation StrategiesTo ensure your horse receives adequate magnesium, consider the following supplementation strategies:Dietary AnalysisBefore adding supplements, analyse your horse's diet to determine existing magnesium levels. This can help you make informed decisions about supplementation needs. A thorough dietary analysis can reveal gaps in nutrition and help you address them effectively.Magnesium Sources Magnesium can be supplemented in various forms, including:Magnesium Oxide: Highly absorbable and cost-effective, making it a popular choice for supplementation.Magnesium Citrate and Sulphate: These forms are also effective but may require larger doses to achieve the same effect as magnesium oxide.Dosage RecommendationsThe National Research Council (NRC) recommends a daily magnesium intake of 15 mg per kg of body weight for horses. For a 500 kg horse, this equates to 7.5 g per day. Horses undergoing moderate to intense exercise may require up to 15 g per day to compensate for losses through sweat. Always consult with a veterinarian or equine nutritionist to determine the appropriate dosage for your horse.Feeding Practices To improve palatability and minimize digestive upsets, divide the daily magnesium dosage into two meals. Gradually increase the dose to ensure your horse adjusts to the supplement. Introducing supplements slowly helps prevent any adverse reactions and ensures your horse receives the full benefit.ConclusionMagnesium is a vital mineral for maintaining the health and performance of horses. By understanding its benefits and implementing effective supplementation strategies, you can ensure your horse remains healthy, calm, and resilient. Always consult with a qualified equine nutritionist to tailor supplementation to your horse's specific needs.For more information on magnesium supplementation and to explore high-quality products, visit reputable sources like Mad Barn and Equus Vitalis. Remember, keeping your horse's magnesium levels in check is a simple yet powerful way to ensure they stay happy, healthy, and performing at their best. Don't let magnesium deficiency hold your horse backmake sure they're getting the nutrients they need to thrive.How do I know if my horse needs magnesium?Signs of magnesium deficiency in horses include nervousness, anxiety, muscle tremors, cramps, hypersensitivity to sound and movement, irritability, resistance to training, fatigue, and irregular heartbeat. If you notice any of these symptoms, consider consulting with a veterinarian or equine nutritionist for proper diagnosis and advice on magnesium supplementation.Can you give a horse too much magnesium?Yes, it is possible to give a horse too much magnesium. Over-supplementation can lead to adverse effects such as diarrhea and imbalance of other essential minerals. Always follow dosage recommendations and consult with a qualified equine nutritionist or veterinarian to ensure safe and effective supplementation.How long does magnesium take to work in horses?The effects of magnesium supplementation can vary depending on the horse and the severity of deficiency. Generally, you may start to notice improvements in a few days to a few weeks. Consistent supplementation and monitoring will help ensure the best results for your horse's health and performance.Which form of magnesium is best for horses?Magnesium oxide is a popular choice for supplementation due to its high absorbability and cost-effectiveness. Other effective forms include magnesium citrate and magnesium sulphate, though they may require larger doses to achieve the same effect as magnesium oxide. Consult with an equine nutritionist to determine the best form and dosage for your horse's specific needs.

Cast your eye around any competition venue or equestrian facility and you will find that a lot of horses are wearing a martingale.A martingale is a piece of horse tack used to control the horses head and neck position. It attaches to the girth and bridle to apply pressure should the horses head become too elevated.Riders may choose to use a martingale to prevent their horse from raising their head too high, or tossing and nodding excessively.There are four types of martingales: a running martingale, standing martingale, bib martingale and an Irish martingale. Each style fits differently and offers a slightly different job or means of action, so are more suitable for some horses than others. Do all the horses you see wearing a martingale actually need to wear them? Possibly not. As with any tack, a martingale shouldnt be used as a replacement for skilful riding and correct training. When they are used, it is important you understand how each style works and which will best suit your horse in order to aid their performance, rather than hinder.This piebald horse wears a running martingale1. Running horse martingaleLook around any collecting ring and a running martingale is a common sight lots of horses and ponies wear them.A running martingale consists of a neck strap with two attachments: one feeds between the horses front legs and attaches to the girth, whilst the other forks into two strips of leather with rings on in which the reins are threaded through.There is a martingale stopper on each rein usually made of either leather or rubber to stop the martingale rings getting too close to the bit and potentially getting stuck. The stopper is roughly two inches along the rein from the bit.A running martingale is used to prevent the horse from lifting their head too high. If the horse does lift their head, they will feel pressure on the reins and therefore bit when the running martingale kicks in.A standing martingale is pictured2. Standing martingaleSimilarly to the running martingale, the standing martingale is made up of a neck strap that attaches to the girth between the forelegs. However, rather than attaching to the reins, the otherstrap runs from the front of the horses chest to the noseband.This creates a fixed point of contact to restrict the horse from lifting their head too high by exerting downward pressure on the horses nose through the noseband.Standing martingales arent commonly used these days and it is rare to see one being used. They are thought to be too restrictive on a horses head. Most riders choose to use a running martingale instead.This horse wears a bib martingale3. Bib martingaleA bib martingale works in a similar way to a running martingale. The main difference is that there is a triangular piece of leather with two rings on connecting to the reins instead of two separate straps running from the yoke (this is where the neck strap, girth strap and two straps with rings all meet in the middle of the horses chest) to the reins.It is important to understand that a bib martingale has a stronger affect that a running martingale, and is most often seen in racing and eventing. You may also see it on horses in the hunting field.4. Irish martingaleAn Irish martingale is a small leather strap with a ring on each end that the reins are threaded through. The strap sits on the underside of the horses neck and prevents the reins from coming over the horses head should the rider fall off. This is its sole job, and is why an Irish martingale is a common sight on the reins of racehorses. This type of martingale does not influence the horses head carriage.How to fit a horses martingaleMartingales come in a range of sizes from pony to extra-full for those horses who have very long necks. Once youve selected the right size, there are three areas to adjust: the length of the neck strap, the length of the girth attachment and the length of the rein or noseband attachment.Fitting the neck strapThe neck strap should sit comfortably around the horses neck without being too tight or hanging down too loose. You should be able to comfortably fit three fingers between the neck strap and the horses neck. The centre of the neck strap should sit below where the horses neck meets their chest.Fitting the girth strapThe girth attachment should be long enough to run between the horses front legs and reach the girth. Depending on the style of martingale, it will either be clipped on to a D ring or the girth will thread through the end of the martingale attachment. This part of the martingale should run close to the horses chest without applying pressure, and should not droop down between the horses legs.Attaching to the reinsOn a running martingale, each rein should be threaded through the corresponding ring (ie one on each side of the horses neck without the martingale straps twisting or crossing over each other). Martingale stoppers should be threaded onto the reins first to sit between the bit and the martingale rings to prevent them from becoming caught in the buckles and billets or interfering with the bit rings.On a standing martingale, the leather should be attached to the back of the noseband, in the centre.When fitting either martingale, its important that the attachments are not fitted so tightly that the horse cant raise their head at all. This could cause them to panic or fight the martingale, and potentially cause them (or you) an injury.There should be no pressure from the martingale put on the horse when their head is lowered or carried in a neutral position; it should only apply pressure when their head is highly elevated in the air.Who should use a martingale?A martingale should only be used when needed and it must be fitted correctly in order to do its job properly.If you are unsure about fitting a martingale for your horse, or you are using one for the first time, always ask a trainer or someone experienced and qualified for advice, as its important to get it correct.A martingale is really only necessary on a horse or pony who has a tendency to carry their head too high. If you like to have a neck strap and your horse doesnt require a martingale, consider a breastplate or purpose-made neck strap instead.Whats the difference between a martingale and breastplate?The main difference between a martingale and a breastplate is that the latter is used to secure the saddle and prevent it from slipping backwards. It sits around the horses chest in a slightly different way to a martingale and attaches to the saddle as well as the girth. Many breastplates come with attachments for martingales too, which is really useful, and are a popular choice for riders who need to secure their saddle and limit their horse from tossing their head.Shop for a martingaleShires Velociti RAPIDA Running MartingaleEngineered with the horses anatomy in mind, the Velociti RAPIDA running martingale is constructed for both performance and comfort. It is adjustable at the neck, girth and martingale straps. Supple and hardwearing, the leather is eco-friendly vegetable-tanned leather, hand-stitched with self-colour thread and finished with high shine stainless steel harness buckles.Colours:Black or havanaSizes:Pony, cob, full, extra-fullRRP 33.99 ($57.99)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the USSantadi Adjustable Running MartingaleThis martingale is crafted from durable and supple Italian leather. It can be easily fitted and adjusted at both the shoulder, girth and neck strap. It is finished with premium quality stainless steel buckles and fixtures.Colours:Black or brownSizes:Cob, fullRRP 52 (US$144.99)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US? Purchase hereWintec Running MartingaleThis martingale from Wintec comes in three sizes and two colour variations.Colours:Black or brownSizes:Pony, cob, fullRRP 46.99 (US$53.99)Buyingin the UK? Purchase here Buying in the US? Purchase hereKate Negus Running MartingaleThis running martingale from Kate Negus has a discreetly placed D ring on the underside to allow you to attach either a standing attachment, draw reins or other equipment should you wish.The martingale comes with a rubber martingale stop.Colours:Black or chestnutSizes:Small, medium, largeRRP from 130Buying in the UK? Purchase hereInternational delivery availableStbben Running MartingaleThis martingale from Stubben is made of top-quality cow hide and features either silver- or gold-coloured fittings. In addition to the conventional options for adjustment, the separate and adjustable fork ensures an individual fit for each horse. The rings are made of high-quality and ultra-light plastic material, and are completely smooth on the inside, thus enabling the reins to glide.Colours:Black, ebony, Havana, tobaccoSizes:Pony, CS, FS, XFSRRP from 99 (US$149)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US? Purchase hereGressen Standing MartingaleThis martingale from Premier Equine is fully adjustable with buckles at the shoulder and girth for full adjustability. The looped ending on the neck strap allows the martingale to be fixed to the horses cavesson noseband. It is finished with premium quality stainless steel fixtures.Colours: Black or brownSizes:Cob or fullRRP 44Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US? Purchase hereTownfields Elastic Standing MartingaleThis martingale from Townfields is made from English leather whilst the elastic allows for some give.Colours:Black or havanaSizes:Cob, full, x-fullRRP 44.75Buying in the UK? Purchase hereVelociti GARA Standing MartingaleThe Velociti GARA standing martingale has two points of adjustment. It is made from Blenheim leather and has stainless steel fittings.Colours: Black, HavanaSizes: Pony, cob, fullRRP 27.99 (US$30.19)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US?Purchase hereRosello Bib MartingaleThis martingale is made from luxury Italian leather and can be fully adjusted around the shoulder and girth in order to achieve an ideal fit.Colours:Black, brownSizes:Cob, fullRRP 64 (US$129.99)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US?Purchase hereVelociti GARA Bib MartingaleThe Velociti GARA bib martingale, helps prevent widening of the reins for better control and reduces the risk of straps becoming caught up. It is made from Blenheim leather and features stainless steel fittings.Colours: Black or havanaSizes:Cob, fullRRP 39.99 (US$50)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US?PurchasehereDevoucoux Bib MartingaleThis bib martingale from Devoucoux aims to limit the movements of the horses head and is a useful training aid when used correctly. Designed to channel the horses movements, this bib martingale provides a fixed corridor and prevents it from catching the martingale straps.Colours:Black or medium brownSize:MediumRRP 105 (US$124)Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US? Purchase hereEsperia Irish MartingaleThis simple martingale is made from Italian leather strap and has stainless steel rings.Colours:Brown or blackSize:FullRRP 11 (US$18.89Buying in the UK? Purchase hereBuying in the US? Purchase hereFairfax Race Irish MartingaleThe Fairfax Irish martingale is an essential part of race day safety equipment and is designed to coordinate with the widely used Fairfax race bridles.Colour: BlackSize:One sizeRRP 8Buying in the UK? Purchase hereInternational delivery availableRelated contentSaddle fit: how to check its correct for you and your horse *VIDEO*Bridle fit and horse head anatomy: everything you need to know *VIDEO*Like a seat belt: where to buy a neck strap and why you should always use oneThe post Which type of martingale is best for your horse? appeared first on Your Horse.

Ireland are hoping for Longines EEF CSIO3* Nations Cup on the double tomorrow evening as a second The Underwriting Exchange Show Jumping Team compete in Drammen. A quartet of Simon McCarthy with Gotcha, Emily Turkington with Cornet, Thomas Ryan with Jezebeau and Diarmuid Howley with Absolute De Mio will don the Charles Ancona green jacket after been selected by High Performance Show Jumping Director Michael Blake to compete against 11 nations at the Norwegian venue. With Blake overseeing team action in Roeser, Luxembourg, Taylor Vard will lead the team as Ireland bid for dual three-star Nations Cup success. The team has been drawn second of the 12 to jump and the action begins at 3:30pm, Irish time. The Irish Show Jumping team is sponsored by The Underwriting Exchange Charles Ancona Official athlete clothing supplier to HSIs Senior Olympic programmes Bucas official supplier to the Irish High Performance []

When you spend as much of your free time as possible riding a horse, there is a long list of important horse tack you will need to have. It makes this incredibly exciting and healthy pastime an expensive one, but by investing in the correct pieces of tack and looking after them well, you will be best placed to enjoy lots of special moments riding and caring for a horse.Basic essentials of horse tack are a saddle and bridle, with these items available in plenty of different designs to consider and fitting advice to be aware of before you buy. They also require certain accessories such as stirrup irons and leathers, and a girth for your saddle as well as somewhere secure, spacious, well-lit and ventilated to store it.For some riders, this means the utility room in your house doubling up into a storage area for your horses tack. Or your garage (this is what I do). On a livery yard and other private yards there will be a designated tack room. Wherever yours is and whatever it looks like, every tack room around the world will be filled with the same essential items of horse tack.To help you kit your horse out properly, here is a summary of all the tack you will need:Essential horse tack: saddleA saddle sits on your horses back and is held in place with a girth.The front of a saddle is called a pommel, which is shaped to allow room for the horses withers to fit underneath (as a guide, you should be able to fit two or three of your fingers in the gap).The back of the saddle is called the cantle.The area between the two, where you sit, is the seat.Between the pommel and the cantle is the gullet. This is the tunnel you can see when you stand immediately behind a horse (which isnt the most sensible of places to be standing, so be careful). If you can see daylight all the way through, it means the saddle is not sitting too low and pressing on the horses spine.Inside a saddle is the tree (unless you buy a treeless saddle). This is what gives the saddle its shape and fit. If a saddle is dropped or damaged in any way, the tree must be checked by a professional to make sure it is still in tact and in good working order.Most saddles also have D rings on either side of the pommel, which a breastplate can attach to.The saddle flaps are the two large areas on either side that are underneath your legs. Some saddle designs dont have a flap so that you feel closer to the horse.Youll find the girth straps beneath the saddle flaps (or just below on some styles).Buying a saddleThere are several different styles of saddle, each designed for a particular discipline. The most popular designs are for dressage, jumping, showing and general purpose (GP) riding. There are also saddles for racing and side-saddle, as well as basket saddles for young children.A stock saddle is used for working cattle. I rode in one of these for hours at a time every day when working in Australia as a jillaroo, mustering cattle. They are very comfortable and have big knee blocks either side of your thigh to help keep you secure when whizzing about at fast speeds. A Western saddle with a horn at the front (possibly with a lasso hanging off it) is a common sight in disciplines like barrel racing, reining and rodeo, all of which are popular in the USA.Buying a saddle isnt easy. The choice of saddles for horse and ponies is huge, the price tags are hefty and theres a lot to consider in order to find the best one for you and your horse.The most important thing to consider about your saddle is that it fits you and your horse correctly.A poorly balanced saddle can shift or sway, lacking the balance necessary for you to maintain an effective position, which in turn will affect the way your horse moves.A well-fitting saddle should distribute pressure equally across your horses back. It will also help you maintain the correct shoulder-hip-heel line, with your weight carried evenly through both seat bones.Related content:Diana Fisher, a Society of Master Saddlers registered saddle fitter, explains how to correctly fit a saddle in this videoSearching for a new saddle?This buying guide will help you make an informed decisionEssential horse tack: stirrups Modern stirrup designs include safety features to quickly release the riders footSo youve got a saddle to sit on, now youll need somewhere for your feet. This is the job of the stirrups, which attach to the stirrup bar that youll find under the skirt (a small flap) on both sides of the pommel via stirrup leathers.Once upon a time, stirrup irons were all made of stainless steel and the only choice you had to make was whether to have black or white treads at the bottom to give your boots better grip (Ilike black because theyre easier to keep clean). A child could have Peacock stirrups, a safety design with a rubber band on the outside that would flick off to release the foot in the event of a fall.Oh how times have changed! Now there are stirrups made from plastic and other such materials. Some are so lightweight that you barely know they are there. Styles with bent bars for increased comfort and security (I use Sprenger Bow Balance Safety Stirrups because theyre kind on my knees); others with no outside bar at all for safety; some with a quick-release mechanism to free your foot if you fall off.Stirrups come in vast colours too. German event rider Michael Jung famously goes cross-country in a lightweight safety stirrup that is red and black. They are made by Freejump and are more triangle shaped than the conventional closed n shape.Essential tack: stirrup leathersBudget stirrups start from around 25 (US$31) and go up to hundreds of pounds and dollars. Shop around before you buy and make sure you know whats most important to you. Key features to look for and consider include:How much does each stirrup weigh?What style and shape do you like?What safety features do they offer?Are there choices in colour?How much do they cost to buy?When youve made your selection, youll need to buy a pair of stirrup leathers so that you can attach the stirrups to your saddle. Most saddle manufacturers also make stirrup leathers that can you buy at extra cost so that they match and fit your saddle well. If your saddle is brown, for example, youll want brown stirrup leathers rather than black.I use Wintec leathers on my Wintec GP leather-look saddle, for example. My sister prefers true leather and she has Kent & Masters stirrup leathers to use on her Kent & Masters saddle. Different riders like different things. Its just a case of finding what you like and what suits you and your horse best.You may think of your stirrups as merely something to rest your feet on and give you a bit more security in the saddle, but they are so much more than this. A good pair of stirrups is a key piece of every horse riders tack, and the right set can make a world of difference to your riding position, comfort, effectiveness of your leg aids and your safety.Related content: Looking for new stirrups? Check out our selectionEssential horse tack: bridlesMost horses will need to wear a bridle when riddenA bridle goes on your horses head and can be used for riding, lunging and leading. As with saddles, correct fit of a bridle is vital and there are numerous designs to choose from. The reins are considered a part of the bridle, and the reins are the connection between your hands and the horses mouth.Unless you choose a bitless bridle (sometimes called a Hackamore), the bit you choose this is the part that goes in your horses mouth will be a part of the bridle too, although they are bought separately.The bridle you use is a key line of communication between you and your horse, and ensuring it fits well and your horse is comfortable is crucial. Buying an off-the-peg bridle is the option for most and this brings some potential limitations on fit, as all horses are unique in their head shape and many arent symmetrical.Related content: Your Horseassesses off-the-peg bridles for fit, value and performanceBridle stylesTraditionally, bridles are made of leather, but there are increasingly large numbers of synthetic nylon and leather-look styles available, which can be cheaper and easier to care for.Its always worth bearing in mind when buying a new bridle that synthetic tack has a much higher breaking point than leather.Another consideration is the shape and type of head your horse has.A chunky, cob-type horse tends to have a large, broad head, which is best suited to a bridle with wide straps and noseband.Conversely, a fine Arab or show horses head will look better in a more delicate bridle with thinner, more detailed leather. The anatomy of your horses head is a very important factor in bridle fit.Bitless bridlesA bitless bridle removes pressure from your horses mouth and, depending on the type of bridle you use, will place pressure on different parts of the head. There are lots of reasons why you may choose to ride your horse in a bitless bridle: perhaps they have a mouth injury which means wearing a bit is painful, or they are extremely sensitive in the mouth.For many owners they believe, from a welfare point of view, that removing the need for a bit is quite simply a kinder way to ride.However, going bitless isnt for every horse and its important to remember that its not a replacement for good riding and training.Leather-look bridlesPictured: Wintec leather-look flash bridleThere was a time when leather was the only material all tack was made from, but webbing headcollars are now considered normal and it wasnt too long before synthetic bridles appeared on the market.Some traditionalists wont entertain using a synthetic bridle on their horses, but theres definitely a place for them whether theyre made from webbing or a leather-look material.I have used a synthetic bridle before. It was bright blue (one of my poor teenage choices) and worn by my handsome dark bay Warmblood Marcus, who was really comfortable in it on hot days. He sweated less under the straps compared to leather, especially when we did sweaty work such as cross-country schooling or fun rides.My top tip is to dry off the buckles after the bridle is washed or gets damp or wet in any way, because they did rust on my bridle and I had to stop using it. Since then Ive only ever used leather bridles, but I wouldnt rule out another synthetic in the future.Double bridlesIf you are competing, you may find a double bridle is best suited for your requirements. These are mandatory in some showing classes, such as hunters. A double bridle (sometimes called a Weymouth bridle) has two bits in the horses mouth a curb and a bridoon and requires the rider to ride with two reins.Related content:All about horse head anatomy and bridle fitLearn more about the benefits of bitless bridlesDouble bridles explainedHorse tack: Martingales and breastplatesI have deliberately left the word essential out of this subheading, because it is by no means essential that you use a martingale or breastplate (sometimes called a breast girth) on your horse or pony. However, a lot of people choose to use one and it is important to understand that they do different jobs.This horse wears a breast girthA martingale is a piece of tack used to control the horses head and neck position. It attaches to the girth and bridle to apply pressure should the horses head become too elevated.Riders may choose to use a martingale to prevent their horse from raising their head too high, or tossing and nodding excessively. There are four types of martingales: a running martingale, standing martingale, bib martingale and an Irish martingale.A correctly fitting breastplate is designed to help hold your saddle securely in place and stop it from slipping backwards, while ensuring that your horse has complete freedom of movement. A breastplate attaches to the saddle and the neck strap lies closer to the riders hands compared to a martingale, which makes it easy to grab.Some breastplates have optional martingale attachments, so that they can do both jobs. If your horse doesnt need to wear a martingale, a breastplate without this attachment is a popular choice with riders to act as a neck strap (I use a breastplate for this reason) and help to keep the saddle in the correct place, particularly when doing high impact work such as cross-country or galloping uphill.Related content:Does your horse need to wear a martingale?Essential guide to buying a breastplateHorse tack: neck strapsI personally wont ride a horse without a neck strap. Im in good company, because William Fox-Pitt one of the most successful British event riders of all time once said the same thing about neck straps in a press conference I was reporting at. His horses always wear one too.A neck strap is very useful to grab hold of if you become unbalanced. I find it easier to grab than the mane, especially if its a short mane as that means leaning forward to reach it. Holding on to a mane that has got wet (and therefore slippery) in the rain is not easy either.For horses who dont require a martingale or breastplate, their necks look very bare and that makes me a tad nervous. So its more of a mind over matter thing for me, and it really does come down to personal preference. A martingale or breastplate strap will do as a neck strap if it really has to, but a separate, purpose-made neck strap is ideal because it isnt attached to the rest of your horses tack and so doesnt interfere with anything. Ive repurposed several old stirrup leathers for this purpose in the past. A neck strap doesnt have to be expensive in order to do the job.Reasons to use a neck strapThis rider has chosen to use a neck strap while cross-country schoolingI find holding a neck strap comes in very handy when I foresee that something tricky to sit to is about to happen. A loose dog I can hear but cant see yet, suddenly jumping out of the hedge and surprising my poor horse, who understandably spins or leaps sideways in shock. This has happened many a time, and by holding the neck strap it absorbs any movement in my upper body should I wobble, rather than the risk of using the reins to rebalance and pulling on the horses mouth.Here are five more good reasons to have a neck strap in your tack room:Gives youconfidence and a sense of security.This is particularly good for riders who are novices, inexperienced or nervous.Protects the horses mouth because the neck strap is being grabbed and pulled rather than the reins shouldtherider become unbalanced.Provides extra balance and support on a young or sharp horse. We dont really want to fall off if we can help it.Boosts confidence on unknown horses. Ive usually got hold of my neck strap until Im confident said horse isnt going to try and ditch me.It keeps your hands forward. Horses need to use their necks to jump and gallop. If youre holding the reins short and tight it restricts their movement.In short, the humble neck strap is an often-under-appreciated piece of tack, yet can be extremely useful for every rider.Related content: Shop for a neck strapEssential tack: saddlepads and saddleclothsA saddlecloth, pictured, is rectangle shapedIf youre going to use a saddle on your horse, youll need something underneath it. There are myriad different numnahs, saddlepads and saddlecloths on the market. They range from simple budget designs to top-of-the-range styles that do all sorts of things, including wicking away sweat from your horses back, helping to evenly distribute pressure on the horses back and supporting rider (and saddle) balance.Another perk is that they help to keep the bottom of your saddle clean and hair free. I think it must feel more comfortable having a piece of soft material directly on your back, rather than a cold leather (or synthetic) saddle. A saddlecloth is easier to clean than the saddle too just put it in the washing machine (check the label for washing instructions first).There is a fashion element to saddlecloths and numnahs, as you can choose a colour to rest the match of your gear. So if you ride in a purple top for cross-country, you may choose to have a matching purple saddlecloth.Important factors to consider when choosing the correct saddlepad include:How does itaffect the fit of the saddle?When you have a saddle fitted, make sure it has your chosen numnah underneath because it will influence fit.What size do you need?The edge of the saddlecloth or numnah must not finish underneath the saddle, as this can cause pressure points and make your horse sore.Which material and thickness will suit you best?This is an important consideration because, as mentioned above, adding a saddlecloth under a saddle will affect its fit. Thicker, fleece-lined numnahs are a common sight in the hunting field. Lighter, sweat-wicking styles are more common in other disciplines, especially those that take place in summer where your horse is more likely to sweat beneath their saddle.Which shape do you prefer?Numnahs are shaped like a saddleA numnah is typically the same shape as a saddle. A saddlecloth or pad is usually rectangular, so that you can see more of it when its under the saddle. There are half pads available too, which sit under the top of the saddle offering an extra layer of support to the horses spine. These are usually used in combination with a lighter saddlecloth.Do your researchThere is a vast range of saddlecloths and numnahs on the market. Eventually youll establish which type you prefer. In my experience, different types and styles will suit different horses better. I must have at least 20 in my tack room. You may need to use them in combination too. Do this with advice from a qualified saddle fitter, so that saddle fit is not negatively affected.When I bought a GP saddle for Marcus, I noticed that it was rubbing him under the cantle.It was initially fitted by a qualified saddle fitter, who came out to check the fit several times. We discussed it at length and didnt think wed find a saddle that gave a better fit, but we needed to find a solution for it sitting ever so slightly too high at the back.These were the days when I was very light (good times) so my weight in the saddle didnt do a lot to help the situation. I solved the problem by riding Marcus in a Prolite half pad on top of a thin Griffin Nuumed numnah. There was no more saddle rubbing after that. Marcus died 15 years ago and I still have both saddlepads in my tack room (as well as his saddle). They have been worn by various horses since!Related content:Looking for a saddlepad for hacking? Your Horse tests and reviews 8 different designsLooking for a saddlecloth? YourHorse testers rate six for fit, performance and value for moneyEssential horse tack: girthGirths are an essential item of horse tack. Its purpose is to hold the saddle in place.The girth attaches to straps on both sides of the saddle. It then wraps around the horses body, just behind the front legs.It is good practice to do the girth up loosely when you first put the saddle on and then gradually tighten it. Before you get on, check the girth is tight enough that the saddle wont slip as you mount. Once youre on board, check the girth again. It will probably need tightening. A few minutes into your ride, check the girth once more. If it feels loose, tighten it again.How to check your girth is tight enoughDont tighten your horses girth too quicklyTo check the girth, try to slip your fingers between it and your horses body. If they go in easily, you need to tighten it. If it feels tight on your fingers, its probably OK. This is just a basic guide. The more you check and practice tightening a girth, youll find you develop a natural feel for what is right and what is not.I was taught to tighten my girth by moving my leg forward, so that it rests over the front of the saddle. This leaves the saddle flap clear for me to lift up, feel for the girth straps and pull them up one at a time, until I feel the pin on each buckle lock into a hole.Other people do it without moving their leg forward. So when you lift the saddle flap up to feel for the girth straps, you lift your leg at the same time. This has the benefit that if your horse spooks or suddenly shoots forward, you are less likely to lose balance because your legs are still in the right place.Only undo and tighten one girth buckle at a time. This way, if your horse does shoot forward and you have to drop the girth strap, your saddle is still held in place by the second girth strap. When both girth straps are undone and you let them go, theres only one place youre goingTalking of which, however you choose to tighten the girth, make sure you dont look down while youre doing it. You really dont want to fall off. Learn to do it by feel. Eventually youll be able to check and tighten the girth while the horse is walking along, as well as when they are standing still.Doing up the girthOver-tightening a girth too quickly is going to make your horse really cross. Quite rightly, too. Show some consideration by doing it in small steps.Aim for the buckles of the girth to be at a similar height on both sides of the saddle. So if the straps on the left side are done up on hole four, its good to have the straps on the right side on hole four too so that the saddle is balanced.Most GP saddles have three girth straps on each side underneath the saddle flap, even though the majority of girths only have two buckles. Generally speaking, you must always have one buckle attached to the first strap. The second buckle then attaches to either the second or third strap (choose the same on both sides).This can vary between saddles, though, so ask for advice on this when you buy. I once owned a Thorowgood saddlewhere the first strap was not intended for daily use. I was advised when I bought it to use straps two and three so thats what I did problem-free for years.Some horses are sensitive about being girthed. They may just simply not like it or it might be uncomfortable. Horses suffering with gastric ulcers, for example, can dislike the girth being done up because their tummy is already uncomfortable.Alternatively, they may be signalling to you that the saddle doesnt fit well, their back is sore, or something else. It is a good idea to have these symptoms investigated by a vet andthena qualified saddle fitter if necessary. Symptoms may include putting their ears back and pulling an angry face; swishing their tail; fidgeting or kicking out. Tightening the girth gradually over several tries will help.Howtoprevent a girth gallGirth galls are caused when skin or hair gets caught in the girth, causing a painful rub. They are bald patches of skin, which may be bloody. Never ride a horse with a girth gall. Let it heal first.To prevent one in your horse, stretch your horses front legs before you mount. Youll need to gently guide each leg into a full stretch in front of their body. Aim for enough stretch that the skin behind the elbow is completely flat. This will make sure no hair or skin is trapped under the girth. Do this before every ride.On horses who are particularly sensitive to girth galls, a girth cover (this is a piece of material, such as fleece, that the girth goes through) can also help to prevent them.Choosing a girthYour girth is part of your horses everyday tack and plays an essential role in helping to hold your saddle securely in place. Manufacturers use different materials to help your horse be as comfortable as possible so that they can perform at their best. There are numerous different designs made from various materials and a variety of shapes and styles. You need to make sure you buy the correct size for your horse too.Related content: Looking for a new girth? Your Horse puts seven to the testSecurity for your horses tack roomAccording to Oonagh Meyer, Head of Approvals at the British Horse Society, the ideal tack room is either brick or concrete with solid doors that are made of or covered with steel panels and fixed firmly into a strong door frame.Hinges and other fixings shouldnt be accessible from the outside while windows or sky lights should be small and fitted with substantial metal bars or a grille to prevent access if the glass is broken, advises Oonagh.Many types of lock are available and, as with house insurance, insurance companies will usually advise choosing a lock that meets BS (British Standard) standards. Often the type of lock, such as mortice or close shackle variety padlocks, will be specified to in order to ensure their policy stipulations are met.For feed rooms, unless theres risk of theft, the main consideration is to make sure that the door can close and has a standard bolt to help minimise the risk of a loose horse getting access to feedstuff especially in situations where unprepared feeds, such as unsoaked sugarbeet, are accessible, says Oonagh.Storing horse tackKeep your tack safe in a dry, locked storage roomThink about how to use the space you have for storing horse tack wisely, especially if your tack room is small. Saddle and bridle racks on the wall will save space, while hanging rugs rather than folding them on the floor will help them dry more effectively and lower the risk of going mouldy.Its really important that you avoid damp in your tack room as it can harm the leather and stain the appearance of your tack.Cleaning your tack on a regular basis and not allowing it to get too wet when you do clean it will prevent the build-up of mould, advises Oonagh.Keep the room well ventilated and as dry as possible this could be done by an appropriate heater that could operate on a time switch.If you do use an electrical heater, make sure its safe and secure and meets the electrical safety testing requirements to minimise the risk of fire.You also need to consider where you might put the heater.Dont leave it too close to leather or other equipment and make sure you dont cover the heater.Horse tack: in summaryIve covered seven items of horse tack here and there is still so much more to say. If you own a horse, you will also spend a lot of money buying tack. Use it correctly, store it properly and securely, give it the general care and maintenance it requires and it will serve you well.Over the years you will find that your supply of tack increases as horses come and go. You could sell on second hand to earn back some of the money you spent. Alternatively, you might hang on to something in case it becomes useful for a different horse in the future. I do this and I tell myself its for this reason, although Ill confess I am sentimental too. Storage is an issue, however. I have five saddles sitting on saddle racks in my garage right now, unused because not a single one of them fits my ex-racehorse. Typical!Images: copyright Shutterstock & Your Horse Library/Aimi Clark/Lucy MerrellRelated contentHow to take care of a horseOur pick of the latest grooming kits and brush sets for horsesEssential guide to buying boots for your horseHorse bits: essential A-Z guide for every horse owner and riderBitless bridles: would your horse benefit from wearing one?The post A-Z guide to essential horse tack appeared first on Your Horse.

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Knowing how to take care of a horse is vital for keeping a happy, healthy horse and for being a content, fulfilled horse owner. There is a lot to think about when considering what that actually means and there is one over-riding theme: youll never stop learning.I have been fortunate enough to own and take care of numerous horses and ponies in my lifetime, and every single one of them has required a slightly different care approach to satisfy their individual needs and personalities. Id say that this is the golden rule to remember about horse care: theyre all different.Hoof care, diet, exercise, general health, teeth, worm control, and mental health are seven core areas to think about first when considering how to take care of a horse. Fail to provide what your horse requires in any of these areas, and you leave them at risk of serious illness, pain, physical problems, and general unhappiness. Each area is influenced by things like changing seasons, where you live, the age and breed of your horse and pony, and how experienced you are as a horse owner and rider. I talk more about each one below.Essential hoof care for horsesEvery domesticated horse in the world requires regular hoof care from someone who is qualified, and checks must be carried out at regular intervals throughout the year. This is the case whether a horse is shod (wears shoes) or unshod (barefoot). In the UK, only a qualified farrier can put shoes on a horse; an equine podiatrist is able to do hoof trimming, but make sure you choose one with the correct credentials.Breed, age and workload can significantly influence the quality of your horses hooves.Its important to consider that what works for your horse might not work for another, states farrier Jack Climo Dip WCF, who is based in Worcestershire. Work out the best hoof care routine for your horse and stick to it. Speak to your farrier if you have any concerns and keep on top of any issues as they arise.Bear in mind that hooves can grow more quickly in summer, so horses often benefit from a shorter shoeing cycle. Long toes and unbalanced feet will increase strain on the foot, which can cause cracking, bruising and lameness, adds Jack.Boosting hoof qualityProviding a balanced diet is key to understanding how to take care of a horse, not least because lacking in vitamins and minerals will leave horses vulnerable to poor quality hooves that become brittle and weak.If your horse is not receiving supplementary feeds, ensure they are having a balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement. For horses with poor quality hooves, feed a supplement with biotin to improve hoof quality, advises Jack. Dont forget it will take six to nine months to have any effect. This is how long it takes for new hoof to grow, so dont give up if you dont see results immediately.Your horse should be seen by a farrier at the same intervals all year round for regular shoeing and/or trimming. If you are planning to compete your horse, you might need to ask your farrier for stud holes in the spring. General hoof care requirements change when the weather becomes milder too. Dry hooves crack and become brittle, for example, so consider a topical dressing to help balance the moisture content in the hoof. Ask your farrier which they recommend, as they know your horses hooves the best. Changeable weather is really hard for hooves to cope with, and the constant change from wet to dry and wet again really impacts hoof health.Related content:Complete guide to good horse hoof careWould your horse benefit from being barefoot?What is a farrier?Symptoms of navicular to look out forHow to take care of a horse: dietFor a horse to look healthy and be in good condition on the outside, they need to be healthy on the inside too. This means providing them with a healthy, balanced diet that provides all the nutrition they need. It is also means ensuring they maintain a healthy weight. Equine obesity is a major welfare issue around the world, which triggers all sorts of distressing diseases, including laminitis and equine metabolic syndrome. Just as a fat/overweight horse isnt healthy, neither is an underweight horse. Monitoring any weight gain or loss on an ongoing basis is a key part of how to take care of a horse.Carrying too much weight is never a good thing for any horse, says Dodson & Horrell nutritionist Charlotte Wilkinson. Equine obesity brings with it an increased risk of health conditions, such as laminitis, orthopaedic diseases, or infertility. It also means general poor health and performance.A good horse diet is one that is forage based (that is, mostly hay/haylage and grass), topped up with hard feed and relevant supplements as required. The key is having a feeding plan that provides enough energy (calories) to fuel the amount of work your horse is doing; too much, and a horse will put on weight (and possibly become a handful to ride because they have excess energy); too little, and the horse will lose weight and may be sluggish to ride.At the very least, a forage-based diet will need to be supplemented with a balancer so that your horse is eating a full spectrum of nutrients that they need. For good doers (ie those who hold their weight well and are prone to weight gain), this is often enough. For poor doers (ie those who lose weight easily) it can be topped up with a bucket feed.Ask for feeding adviceNot knowing where to look for feeding advice often leads to confusion among horse owners, says Charlotte. People tend to feel that consulting a feed company may result in having products forced upon them and a lot of sales jargon. This is rarely the case, and if anyone is going to know their products best, its the feed company. Producers of horse feed are often horse owners themselves and have your equines interest at heart. For any nutritionist, best practice and ensuring a horse is recommended the most suitable diet for them as an individual is of the utmost importance, and crucial to our profession.It is our responsibility as horse owners to tackle the obesity epidemic currently threatening our horses, but its not necessarily easy to put together a weight loss plan, or even to avoid weight gain in the first place, continues Charlotte. The plethora of information available surrounding equine obesity can be overwhelming, and a daunting prospect for many horse owners.Fighting equine obesity In the UK alone, up to a massive 70% of equines are considered overweight or obese. The only way to tackle this worrying trend is to get how you take care of a horse correct, particularly their diet and daily management.It has to be said that although obesity is as much of an issue as ever, more and more owners are making a conscious effort to combat their equines waistlines, and companies throughout the industry are working to support them, adds Charlotte. Whether it be by upping their horses workload, looking more closely at their diet, or monitoring their weight more often, many more people are taking steps towards weight loss for their equines, and learning that fit not fat is best.Related content:Horse diet essentials: how long should they go between meals?How to provide a balanced diet10 golden rules of feeding for a healthy, happy horseInside a horses digestive system and how to keep it healthyHow to take care of a horse: exerciseHorses are designed to move. A lot. Standing in a stable for hours on end is not natural and can cause myriad health issues, from swollen legs to digestive orders like colic and gastric ulcers; through to general unhappiness, boredom, and bad habits (stereotypies/vices like box walking and crib biting).Providing a horse with regular exercise, whether thats ridden, in-hand, lunging, turnout or some other form of movement, is a vital part of horse care. This includes any equines who cant be ridden too. Perhaps theyre young, old, retired or injured but they still need to move. Like I said, horses are designed to move and its your job to make sure they can and do.Find an exercise routine that worksIn spring, summer and as much of the autumn as possible, I like my horses to be in a field overnight and spend the day in their stable. This optimises the amount of time they spend outside moving around and, in summer, keeps them inside during the day out of the worst of the heat and away from flies.I also aim to ride most days certainly every day in winter and five times a week in summer. In winter, my fields get very wet and muddy (knee deep), so my turnout options are limited. At this time of year, my horses are stabled overnight and during the day they are ridden, with as much time as possible loose in their yard or in a barn so that they can move around.Of course, different routines work better on some yards than others. Some have horse walkers, all-weather turnout pens and land that is dry enough all year round for regular turnout. There are people who have more time to ride than others. There are also times when even the best plans are thwarted by the unexpected running late at work, getting stuck in traffic, your child being ill, a horse losing a shoe, for example. On these occasions, adapt your plans and do things slightly differently, while still giving your horse the opportunity to move. Leaving them in the field for longer, for example, or leading them out in-hand rather than riding.How hard is your horse working?Having an accurate understanding of how hard your horse is working is key to being able to take care of a horse. Most leisure horses will be in light work, for example, which may come as a surprise if you hack out every day. Those in hard work are usually competing and doing fast work regularly or hunting several days a week.Knowing your horses workload is key to managing them correctly. It will help you to understand whether they are moving enough and to work out a diet that is suitable for their needs. If youre not sure, ask your vet or a qualified nutritionist to assess your horses workload and their diet.Related content:What is your horses workload?How to get a horse fitInterval training for horses: how and why you need to do itEssential horse care: worm controlDifferent types of worms are a threat to horses and ponies at different times of year. Providing effective worm control is a three-prong approach:Firstly, its understanding what worms to think about and when.Secondly, its understanding how to lower the risk of these worms. This includes how you use and maintain your paddock not having too many horses grazing a small area, regular poo-picking and sharing with other farm animals where possible.Thirdly, its about understanding that resistance to the drugs in horse wormers has risen to worrying levels to the point that horses lives could be at risk. Blanket worming all horses on the yard without testing for worms first is a no-no.Unless more horse owners and yard managers change their approach to parasite control, horses will be at higher risk of dying from the worm-related conditions that are currently treatable, says Julia Shrubb, an equine vet at Ashbrook Equine Hospital in Cheshire. Worms are becoming resistant to the effects of dewormers. Resistance has been demonstrated in all the deworming drugs that are currently available and no new products are being developed to replace them.Be aware of wormer resistanceResistance means that a wormer doesnt kill the worms it is targeting. One of the most significant causes of this is the overuse of wormers, as many are still given to horses when they are not needed.Horse owners must move to a risk-assessment approach and carry out regular testing, including faecal worm egg counts [FWECs] and tapeworm saliva tests, advises Julia. Based on test results and the quick risk assessment of a horse, herd and management factors, a horse may not need a dewormer at all if they are at a low risk of a worm-related disease.Resistance among many of the key worm types, including small redworms and tapeworms, is now documented all over the world and in all classes of wormer.It is often quoted that 20% of horses carry 80% of the worm burden, which means that unless owners test they dont know which horses are being wormed unnecessarily, states Julia. It is not only impossible but also unhealthy to try to eradicate all intestinal parasites in adult horses. What we are aiming to do is to minimise the risk of disease in an individual, as well as reduce the risk to herd mates.How to protect a horse from wormsA faecal worm egg count is where a sample of a horses poo is analysed by a vet practice or by sending it in the post to a laboratory. If the worm egg count is high, a wormer should be used, followed by another FWEC 10 days later to make sure the egg count has dropped. If a worm egg count is low or nil as was the case with my own horse recently no wormer needs to be given.It is important to understand that there are several different types of horse worms and they become a threat at different times of year. Not all worms will show up in a FWEC. Encysted small redworm is one example, because the larvae do not lay eggs. It is possible to detect these worms via a blood test, though. Tapeworms are another that wont show in an FWEC, but there is a simple saliva test easily available to test for these.Alongside testing, the most important action every owner must take to protect their horse from worms is poo pick the fields.Regularly poo picking stops the life cycle of parasites because the worm eggs and infective larvae are being removed from the pasture before the horse can ingest them, explains Julia. Poo picking at least twice a week has been shown to be incredibly effective. It is laborious and time-consuming, but absolutely worth it.Related content:Horse worming schedule and management adviceFaecal worm egg counts explainedWinter worms: three to test your horse for nowHow to take care of a horse: teethEvery horse should have an annual dentist check at the very least. It may be more often if your vet or equine dental technician recommends it.Horses have their teeth checked to make them more comfortable when theyre eating and working, and to help prevent potential issues occurring later on, says BAEDT-registeredequine dental technician Simon Pratley. We look for sharp edges and overgrowths that need reducing, evidence of bit wear, any fractured teeth, loose teeth in geriatrics and signs of gum disease.Mouth discomfort can present itself in different ways. Look out for any of the following signs:Erratic/changed behaviour when ridden, such as rearing, head tossing, running away from the rein contactRefusing to take the contact or becoming inconsistent in the contactLeaning on one rein and/or head tiltingQuidding (where they spit out half-chewed food)Signs of gum disease, such as a pungent smell from the mouth, facial swelling around the sinus or lower jaw, and dark green nasal discharge.This list is not exhaustive. If you see any of the signs, or have other reasons to suspect your horse may be experiencing mouth pain, speak to your vet and/or equine dental technician immediately.When it comes to teeth, its always easier to sort issues out early on to stop them turning into bigger issues later, adds Simon.Get a new horses teeth checkedIf you buy a new horse, their teeth will be checked as part of a vetting. Should you purchase a horse without a vetting for some reason perhaps youve taken one on loan from a friend or bought at a sale, for example book them in for a teeth check as soon as you get them home.When I bought my ex-racehorse Bay Boy (Bee) from Ascot Sales as a five-year-old, we discovered he was parrot mouthed. This is a mouth defect where the top and bottom teeth dont touch. Bee had a large overbite. He also had several sharp teeth and mouth ulcers. Luckily this was all picked up at a vet check a few days after purchasing him and so began vet visits every three months to rasp his teeth.It took 18 months of tri-monthly rasping with a battery-operated rasp (rather than a manual rasp) and then Bee reverted to six-monthly check-ups. Eventually, he was able to be seen annually. Although his parrot mouth never went away, it reduced significantly, and I never noticed that it had any effect on him. I rode him in a snaffle, and we had a lot of fun together, hacking, hunting and as Riding Club members.Related content:How to keep horse teeth healthy and pain-freeWolf teeth in horses: should they be removed?How to tell a horses age by looking at their teethHow to take care of a horse: general healthAt some point, your horse will be injured or be poorly, and you will need to call a vet to your yard to assess and treat your horse. In my experience, things often happen when you least expect it. My sisters first horse was a Thoroughbred called Classic, whom my Dad nicknamed Sick Note. If there was anything Classic could step on, cut himself with, or harm himself in some other way, he would.A case in point was the morning of an A level exam, when I went outside to feed the horses and found Classic with a six-inch gash on the front of his head between the eyes, flap of skin still intact and hanging off. One vet SOS and several stitches later, he was fine.Classic also once cut a Pony Club camp short by leaping around in excitement on a cross-country course, only for one hind hoof to kick the other hind leg and puncture the fetlock joint with a stud. Luckily, he made a full recovery from that one too. He did pick his moments, and they usually resulted in a vets bill. In fact, the stud incident led to a large claim on Classics horse insurance policy for vets fees.Both of my examples were emergency vet call outs (never hesitate with a joint injury because of the risk of infection call a vet immediately). You never know when it is going to happen, so register with a local vet practice and make sure their number is saved in your mobile phone, ready for the time you need it.Horse care: annual vaccinationsDuring the time that your horse is healthy and well, you will still see your vet because it is important to vaccinate horses against equine flu and tetanus. You may also prefer to ask your vet to do annual (sometimes more frequent) teeth checks too. Many vet practices offer deals where you can have vaccinations and teeth done on the same day. This is what I do, because its cost effective. I have no call-out fee to pay, as I arrange for them to visit on a day my vet is doing multiple vaccinations in my local area.Its really important to build a good relationship with your vet. Pay your bill on time, be polite and considerate when talking to them, help to make their job a bit easier where you can by giving them a safe area to view and treat your horse in.Vets are a vital source of knowledge that sometimes you will need to tap into for advice perhaps your horse is losing weight, for example, or they dont appear to be lame, but they dont feel quite right. A horse who is in pain or suffering in some way is a welfare issue. That is why keeping them in good health is a vital part of how to take care of a horse.Seasonal health woesThere are myriad health issues that can affect horses. Some are physical kissing spines, leg injuries and wounds, for example others impact the digestive system, such as colic, gastric ulcers and diarrhoea , while several affect the way the body functions (including laminitis and equine metabolic syndrome). All of the health problems Ive mentioned here can affect a horse all-year round, but there are seasonal triggers to factor in too. Horses putting on weight in spring, when the grass grows, leads to obesity a contributing factor to laminitis and EMS) while some horses are more susceptible to colic in the winter, when its colder and they tend to drink and move around less.Related content:Gastric ulcers in horses: why the time of day you ride and feed is so importantAll about equine flu and how to lower the risk to your horseTop reasons for horse health insurance claimsHorse care: are they happy?Good horse owners are united by their desire to keep a healthy and happy horse. But what makes you happy as a human, may not align with what makes your horse happy. The Five Domains Model for animal welfare assessment was originally formulated in 1994 and has been researched and updated several times since then. It identifies the key areas that influence an animals ability to survive and thrive in their environment. The five domains are:Nutrition (diet)Environment (where they are/their surroundings)HealthBehavioural interactions (companionship)Mental stateThe first four areas in this list are physical things/areas to consider, and together they all impact on the fifth area, the horses mental state. Basically, getting the first four areas right leads to a happy horse.How to take care of a horse: three FsAt the National Equine Forum, World Horse Welfare chief executive Roly Owers said that this model can be adapted to the three Fs for horses:FriendsForageFreedomIve already mentioned how important a forage-based diet is. I also touched on freedom to roam when talking about how vital it is that horses are given lots of time to move. Freedom is the time they spend moving around freely, such as when grazing in their field, mirroring how they would live naturally in the wild. If field turnout isnt possible (in winter when the ground is wet, for example), then free time loose in an outdoor school or pen provides freedom and breaks up long periods in the stable.When in the stable, it needs to be big enough for your horse to move around, roll, and lie down and get up comfortably. Cafeteria-style feeding where you provide different types of forage in different ways in various places in the stable is a good way to keep your horse occupied and moving around their stable, rather than standing still.Horses need friendsThe third F is friends: your horse needs the companionship of other horses and ponies to be happy. If it is not possible for you to turn your horse out with others, the next best thing is to put them in a field where they can see other horses over the fence. They will enjoy the opportunity to interact with each other and touch and nuzzle over the fence too. When stabled, make sure they can see other horses in the stables around them too. If they can touch each other, thats even better.These three Fs make sense when you consider that horses have evolved to be herd-living, grazing animals who live in secure social groups. The closer you get to providing that for your own horse, the happier and healthier they will be.Related content:All about cafeteria feeding and its huge benefits for horses *VIDEO*How to read and understand horse behaviour13 signs your horse is happyHow to take care of a horse: final thoughtsThis article is by no means an exhaustive list of what you need to do when you are responsible for a horses care. My goal was to give a general overview to whats involved and some insight into what I believe are the core areas involved in how to take care of horse. Yes there are others, including grooming, riding, general leg and body care, plus saddle fit. Ultimately, we as horse owners are always learning. Sometimes we dont get it quite right, so its important we learn from it and adjust going forward. If your horse pricks their ears and even gives a little whinny or a whicker when they see you, chances are youre doing a great job.Main image: copyright ShutterstockThe post How to take care of a horse so that theyre happy and healthy appeared first on Your Horse.

Horse Sport Ireland (HSI) High Performance Show Jumping Director Michael Blake has chosen a strong four combinations to represent The Underwiting Exchange Irish Show Jumping Team for the Longines EEF Series second leg in Roeser. Blake sends Max Wachman with the Irish Sport Horse Kilkenny, Michael Duffy with Clitschko 17, Tom Wachman with Cathalina S and Ireland stalwart Cian OConnor with Fancy De Kergane into the Luxembourg arena for CSIO3* action on Friday. A team with a blend of youth and experience, Ireland have been drawn nine of the 13 nations competing and face stiff competition from the likes of Belgium, Switzerland, France, United States and Great Britain on what promises to be a fantastic afternoon of jumping action, which begins at 1:30pm Irish time. Co. Tipperarys Max Wachman with Kilkenny (ISH) Co. Mayos Michael Duffy with Clitschko 17 Co. Tipperarys Tom Wachman with Cathalina S Co. Meaths Cian OConnor []