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    How to Help an Overweight Horse: Practical Tips for Healthy Weight Loss
    If you have ever found yourself wondering whether your horse is carrying a little extra padding, youre not alone, and youre certainly not the first. Managing weight in horses is now one of the most talked-about topics in equine care, and for good reason. Studies show that more than half of the UKs horse population is overweight, including a surprising number who are in regular work.As horse owners, understanding how to manage their weight is essential to long-term health and performance.Jump to:The Causes of Weight Gain in HorsesThe Hidden Dangers of Excess WeightMonitoring Weight the Right WayTop Tips for Managing Your Horses WeightNutritional Support That Makes a DifferenceHelping You and Your Horse Stay on Track With Redpost & NAFThe Causes of Weight Gain in HorsesFeeding too much may seem like the main factor, but its not always the sole cause. Weight gain in horses is often the result of a mix of numerous things, many of which are easy to overlook.Metabolism Matters: Some horses, especially native breeds like cobs, Welsh ponies, or Highlands, are genetically programmed to survive on very little. These hardy types are incredibly efficient at turning grass and forage into stored fat. Even crossbreeds or those that look more refined might carry these thrifty genes and need less feed than we think.Workload vs. Reality: Many owners feed for the amount of work they plan to do, rather than the work their horse is actually in. Always check the feeding rates on the bag for the manufacturers workload recommendations and be realistic about how much your horse is really doing each week.Old Habits Die Hard: In certain showing disciplines, the idea of a horse in good condition still leans toward a rounder appearance. But fat isnt fitness, and carrying extra weight is no longer considered healthy, especially when we know the long-term risks.The Hidden Dangers of Excess WeightA chunky pony might look cute, but the risks of obesity are real and often serious. Carrying too much weight can contribute to:Laminitis and Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS)Increased strain on joints, leading to lamenessPoor stamina and reduced performanceHormonal behaviour changes, especially in maresFertility issuesRespiratory issues, like Summer Pasture-Associated RAO (SPARAO)What many owners dont realise is that fat is metabolically active. It releases inflammatory compounds that can make a horse feel sluggish and increase the risk of chronic disease over time.Monitoring Weight the Right WayWeight management starts with knowing whats normal for your horse. That means using both your eyes and your hands.Body Condition Scoring (BCS) is one of the most simple ways to monitor your horses weight. Combine this with a weigh tape, and you can start tracking trends over time. The BCS isnt the most exact system, but even if the numbers arent perfect, theyre great for spotting gains or losses.Top Tips for Managing Your Horses WeightWeight control doesnt mean starving your horse and doubling their exercise, it means being strategic and consistent. Here are some owner-friendly tips:Weigh tape and body score weekly try to make it part of your regular routineFeed for current work levels, not the ones you hope to reachSoak hay to reduce sugar content, and consider adding clean, quality straw to help fill them upStick to low-sugar, high-fibre feeds and avoid unnecessary extrasDont over-rug, let their natural metabolism do its jobMake sure youre still providing balanced micronutrients, especially if reducing hard feed (consider NAF Optimum Balancer or General Purpose Supplement)Nutritional Support That Makes a DifferenceAlongside management, nutrition plays a huge role in supporting healthy weight and metabolism. Supplements that include ingredients like magnesium, spirulina and marine-derived nutrients have shown benefits in helping horses maintain insulin sensitivity and improve fat metabolism.The key is honesty: assessing your horses condition without judgement, and making informed choices that support their long-term wellbeing.If your horse needs help managing weight without compromising on nutrition, NAF Slim Pellets are a game-changer. These easy-to-feed pellets are designed specifically for overweight horses and ponies, offering:Low-calorie support for healthy weight lossKey nutrients like spirulina, MSM, and marine extracts to promote metabolismAdded antioxidants to support overall health during weight lossA pelleted format for fussy feeders or those prone to picking around powdersIdeal for horses on restricted diets or those prone to weight gain, EMS, or laminitisHelping You and Your Horse Stay on Track With Redpost & NAFAt Redpost Equestrian, we know how much you care about your horses health, and were always here to help. We proudly stock the full range of NAF products, including NAF Slim Pellets, balancers, and nutritional support tailored for horses of all shapes and sizes. Whether youre looking to prevent seasonal weight gain, support a horse with metabolic concerns, or simply want to keep your horse in tip-top shape, were here with trusted advice and high-quality products from NAF, a brand known and loved across the equestrian world.Weight management is a challenge, but its absolutely achievable with the right tools, support, and mindset. Regular monitoring, thoughtful feeding, and targeted nutritional support can make all the difference.Discover the NAF CollectionThe post How to Help an Overweight Horse: Practical Tips for Healthy Weight Loss first appeared on Redpost Equestrian Blog.
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  • LIVE | FEI Vaulting World Championship for Juniors - Free test (Male & Female)
    Enjoy now the Juniors - Free test (Male & Female) of the FEI Vaulting World Championship Subscribe to our YouTube ...
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  • Lauren Hough and Clarisall Junior Dominate the $32,000 GGT Footing Grand Prix Qualifier CSI2*
    Ocala, FL Feature class action during the penultimate week of the 2025 Summer Series kicked off early Thursday morning with the $32,000 GGT Footing Grand Prix Qualifier CSI2* in the WEC Grand Arena. Thirty-one top horse-and-rider combinations representing 15 different nations competed for top honors, but it was Olympian Lauren Hough (USA) who emerged victorious aboard her own Clarisall Junior, finishing nearly two seconds[...]Read MoreThe post Lauren Hough and Clarisall Junior Dominate the $32,000 GGT Footing Grand Prix Qualifier CSI2* appeared first on World Equestrian Center.
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  • WWW.YOURHORSE.CO.UK
    This is the full line up for the SEIB Main Arena at Your Horse Live its going to be a cracker!
    The full line up for this years SEIB Main Arena on Saturday and Sunday at Your Horse Live (7-9 November) has been released and its a good un! Weve got elite riders Becky Moody, Oliver Townend and Geoff Billington plus top-dollar crowd favourites (Ben Atkinson and Emma Massingale), meaning this years show is shaping up to be an incredible weekend of equestrian entertainment.And the best bit? Theres plenty more to be unveiled, including Fridays main arena line-up so watch out for more announcements, coming very soon.Tickets for this years show are on sale now.Becky MoodyDressage fans really dont want to miss this one! Becky will be making her Your Horse Live debut, with masterclasses that share insight into her training methods and the magic that helped Great Britain win team bronze at the Paris Olympic Games.Currently ranked fourth in the FEI World Dressage Rankings, Becky is a household name in the equestrian community and were really excited to welcome her to Your Horse Live for the first time this year.She is perhaps best known for riding Jagerbomb, the homebred 11-year-old KWPN gelding who inspired myriad bomb emojis to appear on social media channels during last years Olympic Games.Were still working on the final details so watch this space for information about which horses Becky will be bringing (and whether Bomb will be making an appearance too).Oliver Townend and Geoff BillingtonYou said you wanted them and were happy to deliver equestrians favourite (and funniest) double act!Oliver and Geoff are always a massive hit with our audience. They have a brilliant way of being entertaining and passing on their horsey wisdom at the same time. Prepare to laugh out loud!You will also be able to catch them live on the stage, where theyll answer your burning questions.The duo will also be doing meet and greet sessions a brilliant opportunity to get a selfie and their autographs.Ben AtkinsonLiberty artist Ben promises to deliver his customary epic performances and jaw-dropping demonstrations when he takes to the SEIB Main Arena on Saturday and Sunday. Ben will also be appearing elsewhere around the show on all three days (including Friday).Emma MassingaleRenowned horse trainer, adventurer, free rider and award-winning filmmaker Emma completes our SEIB Main Arena line up for Saturday and Sunday.Emma is best known for bridleless riding and working at liberty with her team of Connemaras and Shetland ponies.She will be with us at Stoneleigh Park on all three days, showing her training methods and sharing some of the secrets to her success.Find out moreWhats on?Show announcementsShopping line upSign up to receive the latest show newsThe post This is the full line up for the SEIB Main Arena at Your Horse Live its going to be a cracker! appeared first on Your Horse.
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    My poor-doer Thoroughbred eats much better out of a Hay Bar and it saves me loads of time too
    Your Horse is supported by our audience and when you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.Heres how it worksIve always preferred to feed my horses from the floor. As I have mostly always owned and ridden ex-racehorses on my yard, I havent had to worry about them becoming overweight in part thanks to their Thoroughbred genes but also because they have always been fit and in regular work.One of the biggest complaints I hear about feeding hay on the floor is waste being stepped on, urinated on (or worse), getting mixed into bedding and, yes, it does happen.But my horses are on straw beds and eat hay grown in my familys fields. Any wasted hay comes out of the stable and goes into the cows, so actually it is all used in one way or another.This all changes, however, when I relocate for work and take my horse with me.Not ideal for windsuckersBee my 500 Ascot Sales bargain who turned out to be the most amazing all-rounder moves to a very smart yard where all stables were kitted out with hay bars.This is my first experience of using one and, as Bee is now on a shavings bed, I think its the ideal solution for preventing waste.It will also allow him to continue to eat in a more natural way compared to a haynet or rack.Alas, what I havent told you yet is that Bee is also a chronic windsucker and that lovely round, smooth edge is perfect for him to get his teeth around.After a few weeks of relentless windsucking, the Hay Bar is starting to come loose and so I take it out and resume feeding piles of hay in the corner.I dislike filling haynetsI just want to be clear here that the Hay Bar did its job well, Bee just isnt a suitable beneficiary and I suspect this is possibly true of all horses who crib or windsuck to the same extent that he does.Fast forward four years and after the sad passing of my beloved Bee after a particularly nasty bout of colic I have a new horse in my life: King Muro.King is another dark bay ex-racehorse who loves hacking, galloping fast and looks uncannily like his predecessor, but he doesnt windsuck or crib.Hooray!This immediately puts him into the suitable candidate for a Hay Bar box. However,when I start riding him, it is on a share basis. So as much as I dislike filling haynets morning and evening and watching him constantly tug his head and neck to the left as he pulls hay free it isnt my decision to make (or change).Two months later, my share turns into a full loan. Guess what the first thing is that I change?Yep, I go straight on to the Hay Bar website and make a purchase.There are two sizes of Hay Bar to choose from. Image Hay BarPrice and size optionsI pay 88.34 for my hay bar (price correct as of January 2022) which arrives a few days later. This price includes a postage fee of 16.67.I opt for theClassic Black Horse Hay Bar, which is about 36 inches high and takes around 20 inches of floor space. The top edge takes approximately 30 inches of wall space.According to Hay Bar, this sizeis designed to hold a complete small bale of hay in slices. I feed from round bales so I cant confirm this for definite, but it sounds about right.It is possible to pack a lot in and King never runs out of hay at night.There is also a pony size option (27 inches high), which is said to hold half a small bale of hay, and you can choose it in black or pink.As well as allowing King to eat his hay in a more natural position, I also real like that the bar is made from 100% recyclable material.Hay Bar also claims that is it durable and rust and rot proof, and I have not had any issues with it since buying it three years ago.Nor has it come loose from the wall further confirming my thoughts that Bee was the issue here, not the Bar itself.I can pack plenty of hay into the Hay Bar. Image Hay BarFixing it in placeMy Hay Bar arrives a few days later and I rope my partner, Tom, into coming to the yard to put it up.The bar comes with pre-punched nail holes, but not the fixings themselves. So we drive to the yard via Homebase in order to buy some (not the most of enjoyable of stop-offs for my two-year-old, who comes with us, but needs must).Tom chooses the recommended 9cm bolts and 3cm washers.An electric drill is the only way to get said bolts through the very solid wooden stable panels. Kings stable door is sliding and so we have to ensure it will still open before we commit to drilling.Theyre not easy to move once up!We place the top few bolts first before putting the lower ones, as recommended by Har Bar, because this helps to ensure it is straight and flush to the wall.Kings verdictAbout 45 minutes and six nuts and bolts later, the hay bar is in place, in the front left corner of Kings stable.It is raised several inches off the floor (Hay Bar recommends around 40mm) so that I can sweep out underneath regularly and prevent a build up of mouldy hay at the bottom.The Hay Bar is designed to sit flush to the stable on the sides but not quite at the very bottom, which means small bits do fall out.This, coupled with the space we leave at the bottom, is good for hygiene as any old uneaten hay is easily swept away.I soak my hay, so the bottom space also means that no water gets trapped.King is much happier in his stable and eats much more forage thanks to his Hay BarHay consumption increasesKing is intrigued by the bar when I take him into the stable for the first time.He sniffs at it a few times before sticking his head in and bringing it back out with a mouthful of hay.Then he goes to look out his window to check out a noise (Kings stable is in a barn, with a window at the back so that he can see outside) before coming back to eat more hay.Previously, Kings haynets were in the middle of a side wall, which meant he couldnt see a lot and any loose hay fell on to his bed.Thanks to the Hay Bar, his view is much better and he can eat while watching the comings and goings on the yard. I believe it has led to him eating more, which is a bonus (remember his skinny Thoroughbred genes). The hay is also well clear of his bed.Yes, some hay still does end up on the floor but very little, and rarely does it become mixed in with his shavings.The Hay Bar is a great way to let horses eat forage with their heads down. Image Hay BarSuitabilityIt is important to choose the correct size for your own equine. There is a guide to this on the Hay Bar website. Basically, if it is too high, your horse or pony will be eating with their neck too high or they may be squashing the bottom of their neck as they try to reach the hay inside.King is 16.2hh with a lovely long neck and we have found the sweet spot so that he has his neck down to eat.He is a poor doer, and I fill it to the brim during winter so that he has ad lib forage that will last all night.This meant that he is eating with his head up to begin with, although he soon eats it down to a low level.King never runs out of hay, so I know the Hay Bar is plenty big enough, and I like to hide tasty treats like carrots in it for him to find.I just have to be careful when doing this that the hay level wasnt so high that he would fling it around the stable with his head while trying to find the next yummy carrotI used to hide carrots in Kings haynets, but now he enjoys finding them in his Hay BarFinal thoughtsUnlike Bee, King does not windsuck or crib, and the hay bar stays in place for the next six months.Sadly, I lose King due to an injury after this time span.However, I still believe that the Hay Bar was such a good investment. I think he liked it as much as I did!It is a very good middle ground between using a haynet or feeding from the floor. As well as the physical and mental benefits for him, it saved me a lot of time too and as a busy working mum of two, this is a very welcome bonus.I plan to find a new equine partner in the near future and another Hay Bar is on my must-have list. In fact, I think my childrens ponies will have one too.Key informationSize choicesFitting guideWhere to buyRelated contentWhy feeding a horse from the floor is best practiceHow to tell if a horse is happyWorried about a hay shortage? Alternative forage sources explainedExperts advise how to choose the best bedding for your horseThe post My poor-doer Thoroughbred eats much better out of a Hay Bar and it saves me loads of time too appeared first on Your Horse.
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    Clydesdale with 720 colon twist has colic surgery two months after giving birth
    *Warning graphic image*A Clydesdale mare who developed colic after foaling is recovering well at home after undergoing lifesaving surgery.Lilly, a nine-year-old purebred Clydesdale who is owned by Amanda Bennett, gave birth to Darcy Daydream with no complications in early March. However, on Monday 5 May, Lilly started displaying colic symptoms and was diagnosed by Amandas vet Shara Peggrem from Rowe Equine with eight-week post-foaling colic.Amanda was told that Lilly required surgery, but as this was such a major operation on such a large horse, her chances were 50/50.Lilly was transferred to B&W Equine Vets Breadstone Hospital for emergency surgery. Darcy had to be lightly sedated to limit her stress levels as she travelled with her mother in the horsebox.720 colon twistUnder general anaesthetic, Lilly underwent an exploratory laparotomy.It was discovered that the mare had a 720 degree twist in her colon and her caecum (the first part of the large intestine) had been displaced.The colon was markedly enlarged with gas and firm intestinal contents. The colon volvulus was corrected and the intestinal contents evacuated via a pelvic flexure enterotomy, said notes from B&W Equine Vets report.Lilly underwent surgery for a twisted colon.At risk breedAmanda, who runs Ariss Moore Clydesdales in South Gloucestershire with her sister Liz Bidwell, has owned Lilly since June 2024. Clydesdales are in the at risk category on the Rare Breeds Survival Trust (RBST) Watchlist.B&W ordered in a special colic belt from America as no one had one big enough, as I understand this was the first Clydesdale they had operated on, said Amanda.Fortunately, Lilly pulled through. We would like to say a massive thank you toShara at Rowe Equine and B&W Equine Vets at Breadstone for saving Lillys life, without their skills and knowledge Lilly would not have survived.Their professionalism is outstanding, not only did they take care of Lilly and Darcy, but they made sure we were updated on the hour ever hour as we were all beside ourselves.Recovering at homeLilly returned home on 11 May and was put on box rest. Her recovery went well and she is now back out in her paddock with her elder daughter Tiger Lilly and her foal Digby.We would also like to say a big thank you toChristiana of PinkersCountry Store in Latteridge for making sure we had sufficient shavings and feed in place for Lilly and Darcys return home. She dealt with messages outside of theirnormal business hours to help us, said Amanda.Lilly and Darcy Daydream at home with AmandaImages Amanda BennettRelated contentImpaction and gassy colic in horses explainedThis is how a horses digestive system worksAll about peritonitis in horsesWhy every horse will benefit from eating a soaked feedFeed 80% of forage during the day to reduce gastric ulcers risk, says vetThe post Clydesdale with 720 colon twist has colic surgery two months after giving birth appeared first on Your Horse.
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    What do horses do at night? Experts explain
    While youre tucked up in bed at night getting some much-needed ZZZs, your horse is probably wide awake.Horses dont need as much sleep as people do and are actually very active through the hours of darkness. They will graze, move around, and socially interact all night long. Having said this, the quality and quantity of a horses sleep directly affects their health and wellbeing (and yet sleep is rarely considered as part of a horses care plan). So they will fit sleeping into their night schedule too just not the full eight or nine hours that you and I like to get. How horses see in the darkMost horses enjoy snacking on the odd carrot,but its not because of these orange vegetables that they can see so well in the dark.They have more rods than cones in their retina, and also a tapetum lucidum, meaning that they can see better at night or in dim light than humans, says equine behaviourist Rosa Verwijs.They may not be able to see fine detail in such dark conditions, but are unlikely to trip or walk into inanimate objects as they can see these well enough.Research has demonstrated that horses are able to discriminate between objects in nearly complete darkness, and certainly in much darker conditions than humans can, meaning that they can also negotiate uneven terrain at night. They are highly vigilant prey animals and they have good enough eyesight to continue normal activities, such as eating in dark stables and foraging in fields on moonless nights.Light/dark cycle effectsThe light/dark cycle affects many physiological functions in horses mainly through hormonal mechanisms, and this will have an impact on feeding, exercise and sleep activity.Mares are more likely to ovulate at night, for example, and are also more likely to foal at night when oxytocin, which stimulates contractions, peaks, explains Rosa.Increased eatingSome research suggests that horses graze more at night than during the day.They also love to pick at the new shoots of grass that come through early in the morning too, which means its gone by the time you arrive on the yard and may be fooled into thinking there is less grass out there than there really is.Remember that as grazing animals, horses have evolved over millions of years to eat low-value, high-fibre food for up to 18 hours a day. They will browse on bushes, trees and shrubs.This is way it is critical for both their physical and mental health that horses have enough low-calorie food to sustain them around the clock, including at night.Midnight snacksSome horse owners believe that their horse will spend much of the night sleeping rather than eating and so dont give them much forage, especially if stabled overnight.Horses often eat through the night, but of course they can only do this if they actually have something on offer, reasons certified equine behaviour consultant Justine Harrison.A few years ago, I analysed 100 of my cases and found that 42 of those horses with behavioural problems were stabled for more than eight hours without being given any forage at all. This increases the risk of horses developing gastric ulcers, stereotypies and a variety of behavioural problems. It also leaves them with absolutely nothing to do except stand and wait until someone comes to feed them or turn them out.If youre worried about weight gain look for ways to extend the time that your horse spends eating, such as by using multiple haynets and adding straw to their forage ration.Lying downAccording to Rosa, adult horses are more likely to lie down at night. Chances are that young horses will be seen lying down during the day as well as at night. Adult equines may spend more time resting and sleeping while standing during the day in various stages of drowsiness, engaging their stay apparatus to avoid falling over, and meaning that they are able to run away more easily, she says.Under natural conditions, horses will rest more in the summer when food is more abundant, and to avoid the heat and the flies.Sleep deprivationPoor management or physical problems can lead to horses becoming sleep deprived and at risk of serious injury.Sleep deprivation can also really affect a horses behaviour they may become anxious, spooky, or even aggressive and understandably so, says Justine. We all know how awful it feels not to get enough sleep, so we need to ensure that our horses sleep well too.Horses, like humans, have several stages of sleep, but in sharp contrast to us they sleep for only around 4-5 hrs in a 24hr period.There are three stages of physiological sleep and horses can achieve stages one (light sleep) and two (slow wave or deep sleep) while standing up.However, the third stage rapid eye movement (REM) sleep occurs only while the horse is lying down due to the complete muscle relaxation required.Find out more about how horses sleep here.Final thoughtsSo when you wake up in the morning all bright-eyed and ready to face the day, you can be happy in the knowledge that your visit to the Land of Nod coincided with a busy and productive night for your horse. No doubt theyll be very happy to see you when you arrive on the yard and ask you to top up their food supply sharpish!Main image ShutterstockRelated contentHow do horses sleep?13 signs a horse is happyWhy feeding from the floor is best practiceThis is why the grazing in your horses field is providing more calories than you thinkThe post What do horses do at night? Experts explain appeared first on Your Horse.
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    Which bit is right for your horse? BHS coach helps to solve the dilemma
    Which bit is right for my horse? This is a question I have been asked so many times over the years. Its a real dilemma for riders, with an overwhelming choice of bits available in tack rooms, shops and online. My own journey into experimenting with bits started with the first horse I had who was capable of jumping a course of show jumps. I had dreamt of sailing round the Hickstead Derby on a floaty Arab, his mane flying as we sailed over the fences, and down the infamous bank. In reality, I had Bobby, an Irish hunter type, who was far to big for me at 16.2 hands oh, and I had no brakes. Yes, we could sail around a course of showjumps, but though I could steer him around the turns, I had no say on the speed at which we would launch over everything.Loosening the reinI should say here that there is also the choice of whether you even need a bit at all, as the choice in bitless bridles is plentiful. But again, how do you know which is best for your horse?Advice I sought out for my own horse covered gadgets galore, but sticking with bits, I borrowed a Pelham. This resulted in him grabbing the bit and charging with his head in the air, while a hackamore resulted in him pulling like a train. And in a snaffle? Well, where do I start. Bearing in mind that this was in the early 1980s, the main choices were a straight bar, French link, or double-jointed bit and perhaps a D ring, eggbutt, or loose ring snaffle. Mouthpieces were thick or thin, depending on how fleshy your horses tongue was.To cut a long story short, after he galloped off with me, jumping a five bar gate, depositing me head-long into a barbed wire fence, something needed to change.So now I was scared of being charged off with. I would be tense, my fingers clinging onto the reins. I met a wonderful instructor, who took me back to the beginning, and taught me to walk and halt without using the reins. Thats right I had to leave my reins loose, and stop. Trusting your seatThis challenged every fibre in my body. My mind was screaming, He will run away, how can I possibly let go? I learnt to trust my seat, and I experienced for the first time what a half-halt was not tweaking the reins, but bracing my back, closing my legs.Gradually, I understood what Bobby needed from me. It wasnt a rider who was a bag of nerves and hanging onto his mouth, but a rider who sits tall, is aware of their body, and develops a sense of feel for the whole horse not just his mouth but his back, his neck, and his mind. Bobbys response to the discomfort and fear I put him in caused him to react as any horse would: to run away.Two years later, I could ride him. We reached an accord. I would not say we truly trusted each other all the time, but we were generally safe together. My fear subsided, though I was always aware to pre-empt his tendency to dash off if I lost focus. I trained my mind to hone in like a laser beam to keep him with me.We went on to jump affiliated at Foxhunter level with some success. I rode him in control, a steady canter, in a double-jointed snaffle. I communicated with him using my body, and I no longer hung into the reins with my heart in my mouth.So while he was not my dream of a floaty Arab, Bobby taught me so much. I was a proper showjumper!Signs that a horse is not happy in their mouthProblems in the mouth have a knock-on effect on the horse as a whole, including their: State of mindWillingness to be riddenAbility to bend equally in both directions and so on. Tension in the jaw, difficulty in working through the back, and a reluctance to flex at the poll are all indicators of discomfort in the horses mouth. Other signs of discomfort are avoidance of the contact by overbending, or being above the bit, and hollowing the back. Your horse is trying to let you know what the problem is.Identifying the causeSo, if you asked me which bit is right for your horse, I would say that prioritising what is most important is key. Good dentistry is essential to identify and correct any sharpness of the teeth affecting the way your horse uses their jaw. Physical interventions, such as chiropractic or physiotherapy, would be advisable to correct long-term imbalance in the horses structure. In my experience, these are namely issues in the Temporomandibular joint (TMJ), which is the junction of the horses lower jaw (mandible) with the skull. Other troublesome areas include the horses joints, poll, and the lumbar back region. Treatment can be costly, so I would look closer to home for a long-term solution and aim to prevent problems occurring before they start.Once your horses physical issues have been dealt with, the rest is down to you, as a rider. The choice of bit is down to budget, so it may be wise to borrow bits to try, to see what works for your horse. Look at your contactFundamentally, no bit will be right for any horse if we, as riders, do not fully understand concept of contact.Contact, which is one of the Scales of Training, is not just about focusing on the horses mouth and how you hold the reins.A correct understanding of contact is essential to your horses physical and mental development, at all levels. If the contact is not correct, then it is unlikely that you will be able to maintain a consistent level of progress.For me, contact with the horse involves any part of us which is in contact with the horse: our seat, legs and hands. All three body parts are essential for maintaining the horses balance so that they are able to work into a supporting rein. The rein contact should never be stronger than the seat and leg aids, and the reins should never give an aid in isolation without the backup of seat and leg aids.Signs of a happy mouthThese include:The horse turning easily in both directions, the transitions working, feeling balanced to ride.The horse should appear to be working the same with their hind legs as the front legs, and not looking flashy in front and trailing behind.A novice horse will need more support from your back, legs and reins while they learn to balance and work in self-carriage. However, this doesnt mean relying on the bit to hold the horse up.Your horse should appear curved through their top line from ears to tail and the neck should be in a lower carriage, but on no account should they be behind the bit.Their mouth should be quietly chewing the bit, not gnashing at it, or ducking behind the contact (ie overbent).Listen to your horseYour horse will let you know which bit is most comfortable and which suits their mouth. They will also tell you how much contact they need at any one time not just from your hands, but your seat and legs too. Let the horse show you the amount of contact they need. If they are heavy in your hand, increase your seat and leg aids to support the horse, and then lighten the rein contact.If your contact is correct, the horse works through their back correctly. This is as a result of the way the bit is used, rather than the type of bit.They key aspect for me is to have a happy, relaxed horse, with a comfortable mouth and a good understanding of contact. Riding should be fun, not a fight.Main image ShutterstockRelated contentA-Z guide to horse bits and expert fitting adviceExperts explain how to improve a horses poor toplineBridles tried and tested for fit, performance and value for moneyWould your horse benefit from going bitless?Riding a strong horse? Why changing to a stronger bit might not be the solutionThe post Which bit is right for your horse? BHS coach helps to solve the dilemma appeared first on Your Horse.
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    Kickstart Your Horse's Fitness Journey: A Beginner's Guide to Interval Training for Horses
    Section Key Points Introduction Interval training is beneficial for horses, boosting fitness, engagement, and preventing injuries. What Is Interval Training? Structured sessions with alternating high-intensity exercise and recovery periods enhance cardiovascular and muscular fitness. Why Choose Interval Training? Improves cardiovascular fitness, builds muscular endurance, prevents boredom and injury. Assessment Before Starting Consult a vet and ensure your horse is fit for increased intensity, especially if it's a heavier breed. Step-by-Step Guide Prepare foundation, warm-up, design sessions, monitor indicators, adjust plans, cool down properly. Training Locations Arenas, tracks, fields, or bridleways are ideal for interval training with safe footing and ample space. Considerations and Tips Breed type, frequency of sessions, heart rate monitoring, avoiding overtraining. Sample Session 15 min warm-up walk, 3 min trot, 2 min canter, 1 min recovery walk, repeat intervals, 10-15 min cool-down walk. Final Thoughts Interval training enhances horse fitness with safety and wellbeing as a priority. Design the program based on horse's needs. How to Start Interval Training for Horses: A Beginner's GuideInterval training for horses is like giving your equine friend a *carrot-flavored energy drink*it boosts their fitness, keeps them engaged, and prevents injuries. But how exactly does one begin this magical routine? Whether you are new to horse riding or a seasoned equestrian expert, knowing the basics and benefits of interval training can elevate your horse's performance and health.What Is Interval Training for Horses?Interval training is a structured session designed around alternating short bursts of *high-intensity exercise* with recovery periods. Its like a dance with effort and rest, aiming to improve your horses heart and lung capacities, strengthen muscles, and enhance overall fitness without overexertion. In essence, it's a full-equine workout plan with all the drama of a Netflix series!Why Choose Interval Training? Improves cardiovascular fitness: The pattern of intense effort followed by rest is excellent for strengthening your horses heart, ultimately enhancing *oxygen delivery* to vital tissues. Builds muscular endurance: Essential for eventing, endurance, or racing as it helps develop stronger muscles. Prevents boredom and injury: You wouldnt want your horse to yawn through its trot, right? Interval training keeps workouts varied and reduces the risk of *physical strain*.Before You Start: Assess Your Horses Fitness and HealthStart with a veterinary consultation to ensure your horse is fit enough for increased intensity. Remember, some horsesespecially heavier breeds like warmbloodsmight require a more *gradual introduction* to the regimen. Everyone deserves a fair chance at fitness, including your four-legged friend.Step-by-Step Guide to Starting Interval Training Prepare with a solid foundation: Ensure your horse is comfortable with basics like walking, trotting, and cantering before adding intervals. Its like learning the alphabet before writing a novel. Warm-up adequately: Start with 10-15 minutes of active walking. This isn't a lazy Sunday stroll; the goal is to loosen those muscles and prep the cardiovascular system. Design your interval sessions: Based on your horses fitness and goals, alternate high-intensity cantering or galloping with *recovery periods* of slow trots or walks.For beginners, start with 1-2 minutes of cantering, followed by 5 minutes of walking or trotting. Repeat this sequence a few times and monitor progress.Monitor Key IndicatorsTrack your horses speed and heart rate during workouts. Think of it as a health checkup on-the-go. Consider using a heart rate monitor or fitness tracker] for precise measurement and adjust based on response.Adjust Based on ResponseGradually build up intensity, listening to your horses feedback. If your horse appears fatigued or unhappy (a sour face tells all), reduce the intensity or session duration. Remember, its about consistency, not just adrenaline-pumping action!Cool Down ProperlyEnd each workout with a 10-15 minute cool-down walk. This helps relax muscles and aids recovery. Imagine it as the horse equivalent of unwinding with a cup of tea after a long day.Where Can You Do Interval Training? Arenas: Ideal for controlled distances and speeds, offering a safe space for structured sessions. Gallops or tracks: Perfect for cantering or galloping bursts. Fields or bridleways: Opt for locations with safe footing and ample space to avoid any spontaneous obstacle courses.Important Considerations and Tips Aspect Details Breed and Type Heavier horses require longer recovery and slower progression than Thoroughbreds. Frequency Include interval training once a week as part of a comprehensive exercise regime. Heart Rate Guidelines Monitor heart rate to gauge intensity. A fit horse's heart rate recovers faster during rest. Avoid Overtraining Watch for signs of fatigue and adapt sessions to maintain both safety and effectiveness. Sample Beginner Interval Training Session 15 minutes active walk (warm-up) 3 minutes trot 2 minutes working canter (higher intensity) 1 minute walking recovery Repeat canter and walk intervals 3 times 10-15 minutes walk (cool-down)Final ThoughtsInterval training is not just a regime; its a journey towards optimized health and performance for your horse. By focusing on step-by-step progress, safe practices, and ongoing monitoring, you can enhance your horses fitness while keeping its wellbeing front and center. Now, take that first step and design the ideal interval training program for your equine companionit's a decision they might thank you for, even if they won't say it aloud!Explore Jodhpur Collection, Horse Riding Boot Collection, and more at Just Horse Riders to equip yourself for every ride.```html```
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