Choke in horses is an obstruction of the food pipe (oesophagus). It can be alarming for both horse and owner, and does require urgent attention should the horse or pony struggle to clear the blockage.Bear in mind that choke in horses is different to choking in humans. When a person chokes, it is due to an obstruction of the windpipe (trachea) and affects their breathing. The difference between the two means choke isnot quite as dangerous for horse health.Having said that, the severity of choke in horses depends on what is causing the obstruction. You should never walk away from a horse with choke and be ready to call your vet.What to do if a horse chokesIf you are presented with a horse with choke, the best thing you can do as an owner isnot panic.Take all food away from your horse but do allow them access to plenty of clean water.When to call a vetMost choke in horses will pass on its ownwithin about 10 minutes, but somehorses might need a little extra help.If it is the first time you have experienced choke or youre not sure what is happening, call your vet straight away.You should also call a vet immediately if you are concerned the horse is struggling to clear the choke or they are becoming distressed.Everyone should call a vet if the blockage has not cleared in 30 minutes. We aremore than happy to give advice over thephone for your horses individual issue and happy to attend if it is deemed necessary.What does choke look like in horses?A horse with choke often holds their head out away from their bodyHorses with choke can present in anumber of ways. They can seemdistressed, cough and have some green nasaldischarge.Nasal discharge is caused by the build-up of saliva in front of the obstruction in the oesophagus which is causing the choke.A horse with choke often holds their head out away from their body, slightly lowered, and they may cough and/or look concerned.You might be able to see and feel a lump on theleft side of their neck, but this depends onhow far down the oesophagus the obstruction is.The horse may keep trying to swallow to clear the blockage too.How to prevent choke in horsesChoke is usually caused by a horse or pony not chewing their food properly before swallowing, either because their teeth are poor or they have eaten too quickly, or it may be caused by them being given feed that hasnt been soaked correctly first.There are several things you can do to lower the risk of choke in horses:Keep up withyour horses regular dental examinations. Healthy teeth and a healthy mouth chew food better and so lower the risk of choke occurring.Always cut vegetables length ways ratherthan width ways (for example provide carrot sticks rather thancarrot cut into circular pieces)Make sure thatanything that expands with water issufficiently soaked. This should be a given, as feeding anything that is not soaked according to manufacturer guidelines (such as sugarbeet) can have serious and potentially catastrophic consequences for a horses health if instructions are not followed in full.Feeds should besafely stored and locked away so that no greedyhorses or ponies can get in and gorge should they become loose.Lastly, discourage strangers fromfeeding your horses. This is easier saidthan done, but us vets have seen a lot ofhorses who have had weird andwonderful things fed to them over thefence during the coronavirus pandemic, some of which canbe dangerous. Choke in horses is just one of the risks to their health; other potential problems include colic.PrognosisOne complication of choke in horses is aspiration pneumonia, which occurs when saliva and food material that is stuck in the oesophagus gets inhaled down the trachea and into the lungs.This causes an infection and can quickly turn into pneumonia, which is why urgent veterinary attention is required as your horse may require antibiotics.Sometimes, an episode of choke can cause scar tissue to form in the horses oesophagus.This is called an oesophageal stricture and essentially makes the food pipe narrower and increases the risk of the horse suffering with choke in the future.How is choke treated?If the choke does not correct itself and your vet visits, the first thing they will usually do is sedate the horse in order to help them relax.This will also encourage the head to lower and reduce inhalation of food and saliva.The key is to get the horse to relax its oesophagus so that the obstruction has a better chance of clearing, so your vet will administer an anti-spasmodic drug.A tube may be passed into your horses oesophagus through their nose so that your vet can work out where the blockage is.They may then try to flush it out with water or be able to dislodge the food so that it continues its journey down into the horses stomach.The University of Edinburgh has put together a really handy downloadable Choke Fact Sheet, which you can view here.Images: copyright ShutterstockRelated contentHow to keep horse teeth healthy and pain freeHow to provide the best possible diet for a horseHow to stop a horse eating so quicklyAn introduction to your horses digestive systemStrangles in horses: is your horse vaccinated?The post What is choke in horses? appeared first on Your Horse.

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There are certain times of the year when laminitis is a major health concern, especially in horses and ponies who are overweight. Its one of the most serious and debilitating conditions affecting the equine population, which can quickly lead to a big veterinary bill or claim on your horse health insurance.As grass grows in summer and autumn, vets see more cases of laminitis. Spring is also a worry as this is when grass starts to grow and, when eaten by equines who havent lost weight over the winter, horses pile on more weight and become high risk of suffering laminitis.What is laminitis in horses?Laminitis is a common and extremely painful condition involving the feet of horses and ponies, and it can lead to euthanasia in particularly bad cases.Laminitis is an inflammatory condition that causes pain, so many of the symptoms associated with it are signs of pain or inflammation.Symptomsrange from mild hoof cracks with no lameness to severe signs such as not being able to stand or walk.It can cause the hoof wall to grow abnormally, so other signs include irregularities in the hoof. Note that a mild bout of laminitis can quickly progress to a severe case.Spotting the early signsEarly signs of laminitis can be hard to spot, as equines can show different symptoms, depending on the severity of the condition.In fact, research conducted in 2018 showed that many owners struggle to recognise some of the signs of a horse with laminitis.The study found that 45% of owners were unable to recognise their horses were suffering from the disease, resulting in the animals going undiagnosed and untreated.Laminitic vs healthy hoofTo begin to understand laminitis we first need to understand what is normal for a horses foot.The diagram below illustrates a healthy hoof compared to a laminitic hoof: note the changes to the laminae and pedal bone position.Healthy hoofIn a healthy horse, the pedal bone is suspended within the hoof capsule. The hoof wall and pedal bone are joined together by finger-like projections that form tight bonds, called laminae.One set of laminae is attached to the hoof wall and the other is attached to the pedal bone. These two sets of laminae are tightly bonded like Velcro. This allows the horse to evenly distribute their weight throughout the foot.Laminitic hoofWhen a horse develops laminitis, the laminae become inflamed and begin to separate, which weakens the tight bond between the hoof wall and the pedal bone.When the horse bears weight on a laminitic hoof, the pedal bone can rotate downwards. This is an extremely painful process and helps to explain why, when a horse has laminitis, a vet may recommend box rest.This is not just to restrict grazing, but to restrict movement to further prevent the separation of the laminae and avoid rotation of the pedal bone.In severe cases of laminitis in horses or ponies, the pedal bone can rotate and pierce the sole of the foot, leaving euthanasia as the only option.Three triggersOur understanding of the causes of laminitis in horses has improved dramatically in recent years.Historically, it was always thought that access to lush grass was the main cause, but we now know this not to be true.Laminitis in horses is a complex disease with three main causes being recognised:1 IllnessLaminitis in horses can occur when an equine is critically ill due to severe infection or septic illness, such as septicaemia, colitis causing severe diarrhoea, retained afterbirth in a mare who has recently foaled, or very severe cases of colic.Fortunately this represents a minority of laminitis cases and these horses will already be under veterinary care.2 Overloading a limbOverload laminitis in horses is rare and usually occurs following serious injury/fracture to the leg. The horse then overloads the good leg to avoid weight bearing on the injured leg and this excessive weight bearing triggers the onset of laminitis in the non-injured leg.3 HormonesThe most common cause of laminitis is an underlying hormone condition. There is a complicated interplay between the following three hormonal conditions, which triggers laminitis in horses:Cushings disease (also called Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction or PPID)Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS)Insulin resistance.All three conditions increase the risk of a horse or pony developing laminitis and they can occur alone or in combination. The actual trigger that turns them from an at risk case into a horse or pony suffering laminitis is likely to be linked to what they eat.The link with grassGrass contains simple sugars and storage carbohydrates called starch and fructan. When a horse or pony eats grass, their body produces insulin and this insulin causes their cells to absorb the sugars.However, in a horse or pony with insulin resistance, the cells do not respond normally to the insulin, so the insulin levels keep increasing and this causes laminitis. Horses and ponies with Cushings disease and/or EMS often have insulin resistance.If you have a dry, hot summer, horse owners must then be vigilant in autumn if weather becomes wet and warm as there will be a rush of new grass growth.As mentioned already, this grass is not a concern for all horses, but it is for those horses with an underlying hormonal condition that could cause the onset of laminitis.Signs and symptoms of laminitis in horsesSubtle signs include:Lameness, mild to severe, affecting one, two or all four feet. Often worse when turning in circles.Footy or pottery when walking.Stiff or stilted gait, especially when going from soft to hard ground.Increased time spent lying down.Resents picking up feet.Reluctance to move around stable/field.Pain during or following farriery (a horse shouldnt be uncomfortable after a visit from the farrier).Increased heat within the foot.Increased pulse in the digital artery.Divergent hoof rings (spacing between growth rings is wider at the heel than at the toe), hoof cracks, bruising or blood in the white line.Severe signs of laminitis in horsesThe following symptoms means that the horse or pony is in severe pain. This must be treated as a medical emergency and you should seek veterinary attention immediately:Reluctant/unable to stand.Groaning when moving.Rocking back onto the heels to take pressure off the painful laminae near the toe (see main image, top of page).Weight shifting from side to side.Increased heart and respiratory rate.Sweating.Loss of appetite.Medical emergencyHorses and ponies with laminitis can display one or more signs, so if your horse is showing any of the early symptoms, contact your vet for advice.Your vet is the best person to examine your horse, provide treatment and advise on the necessary management changes to assist them.Severe laminitis is an emergency and ongoing disease can result in painful long-term consequences.Early diagnosis and treatment as soon as the signs of laminitis are recognised will not only relieve the pain, but also reduce the risk of long-term damage.How to prevent laminitis in horsesSpeak to your vet to see if hormonal testing is advisable for your horse or pony this could include testing for Cushings disease or to look for insulin resistance or equine metabolic syndrome.Vets often see a rise in cases of laminitis during autumn, because this is the time of year when horses have a natural spike in ACTH (this is the hormone measured when testing for Cushings), and this spike can be related to the onset of laminitis.Other ways to lower the risk of laminitis to your horse or pony are:Use strip grazing to gradually introduce horses to new grass and avoid them gorging.A grazing muzzle will limit the amount your horse can eat and mean they can be turned out in a larger area, but make sure you use them safely.Increase the amount of (and type of) exercise your horse does in order to burn more calories.Swap haylage for hay to lower the number of calories it provides. Soaking hay reduces calorie content even further.Avoid giving your horse treats, as carrots, apples and minds all contain calories. They are bad for your horses teeth too!Talk About Laminitis (TAL) has been working since 2012 to raise awareness of this link between laminitis and hormonal disease, so that laminitic horses can be routinely tested for hormonal disease and therefore managed appropriately depending on their diagnosis. Find out more here.Main image: copyright Shutterstock. Hoof diagram: copyright Your Horse Library/Kelsey MediaRelated contentWhat is insulin resistance in horses?All about Cushings diseaseEquine metabolic syndrome: what it is, risk factors and prevention adviceIt is not the season itself that causes spring laminitis, warns equine vetSugar in grass: everything you need to knowThe post Essential guide to preventing painful laminitis in horses and ponies appeared first on Your Horse.

In partnership withEquisafetySometimes there just arent enough hours in the day to ride more than one horse. In this situation, being able to take both out at the same time riding one and leading the other is invaluable.If youve ever been to a polo match, youll notice that the grooms often ride a pony while leading two or more during the warm up before a game. This is because with so many horses to exercise, it simply isnt possible to have enough riders to ride each horse. Riding and leading is also commonly seen on big yards where there are lots of horses to exercise every day.At a big yard I managed, it was rare for us to hack with only one horse we had so many to exercise that if you were hacking, you had at least two horses, if not more, says yard manager and former polo groom Robyn Cherry. That went for hunters, liveries, polo ponies, everything.In polo, its normal for a groom to have up to 20 horses to exercise in one day, and that just isnt possible without doing sets (exercising a group of horses in one go).For me, I ride and lead my own two the same time sometimes, adds Robyn. Being a groom, its hard fitting in your own horses around work, so when Im short of time, but want to get them out for a good long ride, I take them together by riding one and leading one.When its useful to ride and leadRiding and leading is useful in other scenarios too. Maybe your childs pony needs to go out during school hours but is too small for you to ride, or youre bringing a horse back into work slowly or waiting for a saddle to be fitted. Of course, its also nice to be able to take your child out for a ride without you having to be on foot.One of my horses, Bailey, did six months of riding and leading before he got his new saddle, to build up his topline and get his strength back up after not having been ridden for so long, says Robyn. I use it for young horses too, to get them out seeing the world, with the steadying influence of an older, more experienced horse at their side. Its also useful to lead children or inexperienced riders, enabling them to experience a hack, and for nappy horses who prefer hacking with others.In fact, riding and leading is such a useful skill that Robyn recommends all riders teach it to their horses, and the younger they start, the better.The more horses do it, the better they are, she says. If Im asked to bring on a youngster, I always make sure they get used to both being led and leading. Its helped me in an awful lot of emergencies.Safety firstOnce horses understand what is being asked of them, riding and leading is a fairly straightforward skill to learn, but there are safety considerations.Always have a bridle on the horse youre leading, says Robyn, as it will give you more control than a headcollar will.Some people use a lead rope, but I prefer reins. I was taught to loop the reins through the offside bit ring to give you a little more control and to prevent them getting looped around the horses nose.If you do opt for a lead rope, make sure it is attached to the outside bit ring and threaded through the inside bit ring. This will give you a better contact with your lead horse. Make sure the rope is long enough and that the horse youre on is steady. You must also be confident riding and steering with one hand before you attempt leading another horse.The key when leading is to keep the lead horses head at your knee, advises Robyn. If the horse youre leading gets ahead of you, that is where you can start to lose control or have problems with the horses racing each other. Also ensure the reins arent looped around your hand, and that you arent leaving lots of slack to get caught around your boot or stirrup.If, on the other hand, the lead horse drags behind, try a change of pace to trot to enthuse them. Longer term, teaching them to respond to voice cues is vital for this its tricky to carry and use a whip if riding and leading.Trotting can also help to settle a lead horse that feels spooky or excited. Hold the lead horses reins firmly, but never wrap them around your hand. If you know a horse is spooky, ride that one rather than lead youll have more control.In the UK, we put the lead horse on the left, particularly on the road, as you have more control of the swing of a horses quarters if youre sitting on it.Always start by practising in the school until youre comfortable and confident enough to go on a hack.Its a good idea to put overreach boots all round on both horses to start with, as an inexperienced ride and leader, or inexperienced horses, can result in lost shoes if the horses tread on each other, says Robyn. I also advise brushing boots on both horses for the same reason. If you will be on the road, wear bright clothing and hi-vis on you and both horses to ensure you are clearly seen.How to ride and lead safely1. Start in an enclosed space at a slow pace.Practise first in a safe area at walk. Practise circles, stopping, starting, and sharp turns in both directions. Both horses need to be calm and confident around other horses as they will be in close proximity, and any scraps could put the rider in danger. Horses that know each other and are either stabled next door or turned out together tend to ride and lead well as a pair.2. Increase the speed but only when youre ready.Once confident in walk, progress to trot, and make sure youre confident doing the same shapes and turns in trot. Stay relaxed, keep your shoulders straight (some grooms who ride and lead a lot get back problems from twisting), and keep your left arm at your side.3. Practise using the brakes.To stop, simply put a little pressure on the lead horses reins they should stop when the ridden horse does.4. Learn how to turn.To turn left, use rein pressure to slow the lead horse a little, then turn the ridden horse across their path.To turn right, turn the ridden horse and gently guide the lead horse around with you using the reins.5. Use your hand signals.The final thing to practise before going out on the roads is hand signals. Practise holding both sets of reins in each hand, and giving signals to turn right and left, slow down, and give thanks to drivers. If drivers dont know what youre doing, nobody is safe. This comes with practice, so spend a while in the school or riding around the yard before you tackle the open road.6. Progress to the canter.The next stage is cantering. This is where a lot of people come unstuck as horses can get excited.I would recommend only very experienced people ride and lead in canter, says Robyn. A relaxed, collected canter is key. Again, practise in the school or an enclosed field, and dont allow the lead horses head to pass your knee. Take a friend on foot who can help if things go wrong. Be 100% confident before you try it and, crucially, stay within your comfort zone.How to get on and offIn an ideal world, youll mount your ridden horse and a helper will pass you the lead rope for the lead horse. But if no such helpers are available, heres how to do itPlace your mounting block where you have plenty of room, not up against a wall or in a tight corner.Walk both horses up to the mounting block, one on either side of you. Your ridden horse should be on your right and your lead horse should be on your left, and they should be separated by you and the mounting block, which should now be in the middle.Use the mounting block to get on your ridden horse as usual. The only difference is that as you put your reins into your left hand, you should now have the lead horses reins in your left hand too.At this moment, your horses should be stood almost parallel to each other with a mounting block in the middle of them. Once you are on, you can simply walk them both forward and away you go.Another method is to stand your lead horse at a right angle to you, rather than parallel, to give you room to mount your ridden horse. This can be a good method if you need to keep your horses under closer control.Again, once you have mounted, walk both horses forward and away from the mounting block.When dismounting, position your lead horse at a right angle from the ridden horse so that you have room to dismount. Place both sets of reins in your left hand and dismount.Ride and lead: Key pointsIf you choose to lead with a lead rope, make sure it is attached to the outside bit ring and threaded through, not just the inside ring.Dont allow the lead horses head to get in front of your knee.Ride with the lead horse on your left.Consider putting over-reach and brushing boots on both horses.You and both horses should wear high vis.Pick horses who know and like each other.Dont try to go too fast walk and trot is best.Case study: I sleep better knowing theyve both had some exerciseRiding and leading is essential to Katie Palmer being able to exercise her two ex-racehorses in the winter.We have very little turnout because the clay ground gets too wet and boggy. The boys are loose in a yard during the day and stabled overnight, and they enjoy a daily ride, says Katie, who owns 18-year-old chestnut Peter plus 12-year-old Blue.Sometimes I just hack out for half an hour and then stand and let them graze for half an hour, then hack home. Other days we go further, and I always vary the route.Blue mostly hacks but will do a few days trail hunting and then fun rides in the summer, so I like to keep him semi fit. Peter is retired due to an old injury, so he doesnt go out every day but I think he likes to have a job. I know when he doesnt want to come, because he disappears into his stable when I start tacking up.They live as a pair so theyre easy to ride and lead, even though Peter is five inches bigger than Blue at 17.2hh. I would ride and lead when they were competing, so theyve been doing it for a long time.Ive always ridden and led horses. I pair horses with a similar stride length to avoid one lagging behind, and make sure they like each other. I prefer to lead using a lunge rein, too, so that I know that whatever happens, I wont lose the lead horse. The trick is carrying it so that it doesnt get too long or in a tangle.We walk, trot and canter. Cantering can get a bit exciting with the two of them next to each other, so I avoid going fast in open spaces and stick to tracks. I sleep better knowing that they have both had some exercise.Meet the expert: Robyn Cherry is yard manager at Tyre Hill Equestrian in Worcestershire. She began working on a racing yard aged 14 and has gone on to run her own yard, and to manage others of all sizes including 300-horse equestrian centres. She holds the RDA equivalent of a BHSAI, and specialises in rehabilitating horses post-intensive care and post-injury.This content is brought to you in partnership withEquisafety, high viz clothing for horses and riders.Related content:Riding and leading out hacking transforms laminitis-prone ponys health and gives hopes for othersHacking in-hand: improve your bond, build confidence and other great benefits for horses and ridersHow to safely ride around roundabouts and cross junctions when hackingThe post Ride and lead: How to exercise two horses at once appeared first on Your Horse.

The equestrian action of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games may be over, but the Paralympic Games (28 August-8 September) are still to come, with so much to look forward to.Paris will see a total of 75 riders across the five grades: I, II, III, IV and V. Grade I will be ridden in walk only, Grade II and III in walk and trot, and grade IV and V in walk, trot and canter.Common for all grades is the high the level of competition, with defending Paralympic champion combinations, such as Denmarks Tobias Thorning Jrgensen with Jolene (Grade III), Michele George with Best of 8 (Grade V) and Sanne Voets with Demantur (Grade IV), mixed with many new combinations.The strong British squad has also been confirmed, with four combinations representing Team GB: Natasha Baker, Mari Durward-Akhurst, Georgia Wilson and Sophie Wells.This will be Natashas fourth Games and her second with Keystone Dawn Chorus (Lottie). As a new partnership in Tokyo, they won team gold, individual silver and freestyle silver, adding to the five golds that Natasha previously won at London 2012 and Rio 2016.Mari will make her Paralympic Games debut in Paris. Previously a team silver medallist at the FEI Para Dressage European Championship in 2019, the Grade 1 rider now partners experienced horse Athene Lindebjerg, who contested Rio 2016 with Sophie Christiansen to win triple gold.Georgia and Sakura made their Games debut at Tokyo 2020, where they won individual and freestyle bronze. Since then, they have achieved podium placings at the FEI Para Dressage World Championship 2022 and FEI Para Dressage European Championship in 2023.Sophie is another athlete to make her fourth Games appearance in Paris. The Grade 5 rider took three golds and three silvers across London 2012 and Rio 2016, followed by team gold and individual silver at Tokyo 2020 with new ride Don Cara M.The equestrian venue at Versailles was one of the first two Paralympic venues to sell out this year. The full stadium will be a sharp contrast to the Tokyo Paralympic games, where the whole stadium was left empty due to covid restrictions.View the full entries here.Lead image of Rodolpho Riskalla, Sanne Voets and Manon Claeys on the podium during the medal ceremony for Individual Grade IV at the Paralympic Games in Paris 2020. Credit:FEI/Liz GreggFurther readingGold! Team GBs showjumpers outstanding and ice cool in Paris 2024 victoryWe brought it home!: Britain wins historic fifth team eventing goldBrilliant Bronze! Team GB third behind formidable Germany and Denmark, securing Britains fourth equestrian medalThe post Paralympic dressage stars set to shine in Paris, including strong British squad appeared first on Your Horse.

When trying to work out how to stop a horse from bucking, the question you should really be asking is why your horse is bucking in the first place.Horses like to move their bodies. Watch them playing and letting off steam in the field and chances are you will see them kick up their back heels. A buck can be a sign of exuberance sometimes they roll and when they get up they buck as if to stretch.Young horses play fight and dash around each other, bucking and spinning as part of the game. When a horse bucks with a rider on board, though, we need to sit up and ask: Why?A playful buck in a moment of excitement or frustration can be unsettling for any rider, as though you are at the top of the rollercoaster not knowing how things will feel next.In the moment you need to try and relax so you can respond and guide the horse forward. It needs to be a subtle combination of riding positively forwards and helping the horse regain their balance so that you re-establish calm.Why is my horse bucking?I want to return to the question of why your horse might be bucking before we explore how to stop a horse bucking.Horses are prey animals who are hard wired to run, twist and turn themselves inside out to escape. A horse in pain will begin to react to that pain by trying to escape from their perception of the source of pain. This is why a horse with a sore back is an obvious candidate for bucking.So, if your horse starts bucking, the first thing you need to docheck is whether your saddle fits your horse and puts you in a good balance. Its also possible that your horse is in pain in another part of their body and is reacting in the moment to some discomfort.Are they in pain?Always make sure your horse is not in pain or discomfort from tack that doesnt seem to suit them by working with a qualified saddle fitter.They will assess the horse standing square and take templates to record the shape of the back. Then they will look at your saddle and assess its balance and shape before seeing it on the horse without a saddlecloth.Your saddle fitter will be watching the horses expression and behaviour for any small clues that suggests the horse isnt feeling comfortable, and what could be causing them to buck.When they do the girth up, the saddle fitter will be watching for a reaction from your horse. They will also discuss with you how your horse is feeling in general and if you have any concerns. For example:Does your saddle slip?Does your horse work confidently in all three paces and in the transitions?Has anything changed recently, such as a loss of balance in transitions?Do they tend to rush around when ridden?Are there particular moments that triggers the horse to start bucking, such as hacking out in company?Whatsnormalfor your horse?Talking about your horse and noticing their reactions is a good habit to adopt. This helps you paint a picture for people who are supporting you and your saddle fitter will use all the insights you share to assess the situation and understand your partnership.Its also useful for you to practice observing your horses reactions and to be able to describe what you have noticed in hand, in the stable and field, and when youre in the saddle.The ridden part of a saddle fit is about showing how you and your horse work together. You need to show straight lines, turns and generally ride as you would normally.Its not a test, so for example, if you are not happy cantering for whatever reason, explain that you will only show walk and trot.Trust your instincts about how you feel in the saddle. If something doesnt feel right or your horse is telling you that they are not comfortable, say so.Sometimes it takes a few visits to find the tack that suits you both.Other reasons for a horse buckingThere are other issues to rule out too. Does your bridle fit your horse? Is your horse up to date with dental checks and are they content in the contact?Regular dental checks will help make sure your horse is not uncomfortable or suffering from sharp teeth or uneven wear causing the jaw to become misaligned.If you suspect your horse is in pain or discomfort talk to your vet. They will be best placed to assess if your horse is in pain and to decide on the treatment plan.Explain what signs and behaviour you have noticed and discuss your concerns about your horses way of going. Give as much information as you have.Maybe you realise that they only seem to be rolling on one side or are struggling to get up after lying down. The small things you have seen might be totally unrelated to ridden work, but remember you know your horse and their routine.This makes you a critical part of helping your vet to work out if things have changed or if something is hurting.How to stop a horse from buckingWhen you have eliminated the possibility that your horse is bucking because theyre in pain, think about the following:Is your horse getting enough turn out? If they are stood in a stable all day, bucking could be their way of releasing excess energy.Are they ridden regularly? If not, they may be bucking because theyre excited, nervous, or feeling fresh.What are you feeding them? A dietproving more energy than they need to fuel their work can lead to behaviour like bucking.Speak to a nutritionist for advice.Are they excited? Perhaps theyre approaching a jump,warming up at a buzzy competition,anticipating cantering in an open field, feeling jolly when being ridden with other horsesAre they cold? Using too much leg too soon on a cold day or before they have warmed up properly could trigger a buck, for example.Are your aids clear? Perhaps your horse is bucking because theyre confused by what youre asking.Are they kicking out? This could be the case if something has spooked them or other horses are getting too close.Could it be a training issue?Somethingas simple as breathing out after being tacked up and feeling thegirthHave they learned that bucking causes you to fall off or dismount?Is it a bad habit? Bucking when you ask for canter or in a certain corner of your arena, forexample.What sort of buck is it? A one-off whoopee! because they are excited, or a series of bucks as a warning sign thatsomethingis wrong?If you can identify any of the above as a possible cause (NB this list is not exhaustive), it will be key in working out how to stop a horse bucking.What to do if your horse starts buckingIf you feel like a horse you are riding is about start bucking, how you respond is key to being able to sit tight and stop them doing it.First and foremost, keep their head up. Horses need to put their head down to really buck.Should the bucking start, its important you lean back with your upper body and keep your lower leg secure.Dont let your lower leg slip back (its better to push it forward, if anything) because this will unbalance you.As soon as your upper body to tip forwards and your lower leg slips back, theres a good chance that you will end up on the floor. This is not how to stop a horse bucking.Horse bucking in front of a fenceI have ridden a few horses who bucked. The first that comes to mind is a young Appaloosa mare. We clicked immediately and I trusted her, even though at time she was a little behind the leg (borderline lazy) with no real go button.Then I discovered that she loved jumping. She was able to make a lovely shape over a fence, but she liked to jump on her own terms.After a few months, the mare started bucking before a fence. It was nothing alarming, and mostly she was able to rebalance and pop the fence.Circling in front of the fence made things worse, because it built up more anticipation and excitement to get to the jump.Eventually, I managed to reduce the bucking by having a bigger and more forward canter in the approach.Reflecting on everything this horse taught me, I still dont care for the feeling of bucking before a fence. However, I have learned to concentrate on the quality of the canter and let the fence come to me.Horse bucking because theyre in painA very different horse I used to ride started bucking because they were in pain. This gave me a completely different and scary feeling as a rider. If you find yourself in this situation, whether you are riding a horse you know or one that is new to you, there is a technique I use to try and de-escalate the situation.Firstly, force yourself to breathe and try and bring the horse around in a circle. It wont necessarily stop the horse bucking, but its going to give them a sense of direction of somewhere to go while giving you a chance to put your inside leg on and squeeze your outside rein gently to try to re-establish communication.When a horse is in pain, they might not be listening to you or thinking about anything except escaping that pain. You need to stay calm and work out what you need to do to be safe.Does it feel as though the horse has their back up?Are they clamping their tail or swishing it around angrily?What are their ears doing: are they pinned back or fixed forward with their attention everywhere but on you in the saddle?Are they listening to your leg or are they getting crosser?You need to decide whether this is something that you can cope with and safely ride through, or if your goal is to finish the ride asap and quietly dismount.Listen to your horseThe horse Im remembering had a change in character that let me know something was wrong. Even dismounting became tricky, as he tried to let me know about a problem with the saddle.When this was changed, I had to reintroduce riding slowly, because we both remembered the bad experience.I have ridden a lot of young horses and know my limitations, but I trusted this horse. We went slowly and had moral support on the ground. As soon as I was able to make a connection on the circle and he realised going forward was fine, we both relaxed and put it behind us.Its possible that you rule out all causes of pain and you can find no reason for the bucking, yet the horse still feels dangerous to ride.As a coach and a rider who has been there and had a few falls Id rather forget about, my advice is to talk to a professional (perhaps an instructor or trainer or a trained and more experienced riding friend).Ask them to assess your horse and help you make a plan that keeps you safe.Working with a horse who bucksThere is no shame in saying I dont feel comfortable riding a particular horse. One horse that I adored riding was sharp but kind.He was reactive and could have a buck, but it had the feeling of flying over a large fence rather than potentially catapulting me out of the saddle.The way I learned to manage and ride him through is a good example of how to work with a horse who bucks.When he landed from a fence and I tried to shorten the canter, he would buck. I had to learn to leave him alone and use subtle half-halts to maintain the balance while still allowing him to go forward and enjoy himself.Stopping his bucking behaviour was simple. My job as a rider was to stay with him and gradually shorten the canter and give him something else to think about, such as a couple of steps of leg yield to remind him he had a rider.By adding in movements like this to give the horse something to focus on, rather than thinking I was interfering with his desire to jump, he didnt feel the need to buck anymore.It is important with eager horses like this to recognise their bucking triggers:Freshly clipped?Feeling fit?Riding out early in the morning with a slight chill in the air?A flapping quarter sheet?A pigeon flapping in their eye line?Any of these could easily set my horse off, and there are other similar horses out there. Trying to shut down a horses forward too soon will cause them to simmer like an angry pressure cooker with their mind suspicious of everything real and imagined.Confidence is keyYou know your horse and what your relationship is like. If you feel unwell at the prospect of getting on, I can empathise with that.I have ridden some horses that could have happily gone onto have a successful rodeo career with no need to wear a bucking strap. I quickly learnt that these are not the sort of horses I want to ride for work or pleasure.Some horses buck, and unless its caused by pain or a training issue that can be sorted out, they probably always will. Other horses never buck.Why some horses dont buck is a rather complex question. It can be as simple as making sure they have the lifestyle and management routine that suits them and makes them happy.It could be that they enjoy their work and understand the questions being asked so that all is right with their world.Some horses like to buckDont take it to heart if you find yourself with a horse who likes to buck. Some do and they always will. All you can do is learn to sit the bucks or, if it really scares you, consider whether this is really the right horse for you.My top tip is that while you are working out the way forward in a training or rehabilitation programme, book yourself some lessons at an approved riding school so that you can build your confidence.Talk to your coach about your options and dont be afraid to ask for help to manage the behaviour. Doing so confidently and competently is key to working out how to stop a horse from bucking.Your job as a rider is to give clear and consistent aids and to remain in balance with your horse. You need to be confident that your horse is comfortable, willing and able to do what youre asking, and you need to be patient with yourself and your horse as you work towards developing a partnership. Good luck.Main image: copyright Your Horse Library/Kelsey MediaRelated contentLearn to read your horses body languageOliver Townends training tactics for a horse who is very tense or freshHow to manage a rearing horseSaddle fit: how to check its correct for you and your horse *VIDEO*Bridle fit and horse head anatomy: everything you need to know *VIDEO*The post BHS senior coach explains how to stop a horse bucking appeared first on Your Horse.

The Agria Irish Eventing Team has been named for the CCIO4*S Nations Cup in Arville, Belgium, this weekend. Horse Sport Ireland High Performance Eventing Director Dag Albert has chosen a blend of youth and experience, with Paris Olympics combination Aoife Clark and Sportsfield Freelance joining Molly Evans with Wellan Graffiti (ISH) and Danielle McCormack with Hildare Billy Orinoco in the team, both of whom are making their senior Nations Cup debuts. Albert said: Im delighted were going to be competing at Arville this weekend, and Im really looking forward to the new combinations stepping up to senior level. Molly and Danielle have been in good form and they deserve their places in the team, while Aoife was in Paris for the Olympics and she jumped great on Sportsfield Freelance when she came in to replace Sarah. As always, its a great honour for us to be competing at nations cup []

Section Key Points Understanding the Judging Criteria Conformation: Structure and proportion of the cob's body. Movement: Smooth, natural gait. Size: Height, length, and size in relation to breed standard. Coat and Color: Quality, texture, color, and markings of the coat. Temperament: Personality, behavior, and willingness for handling. Preparation Tips Healthy Coat: Balanced diet rich in omega-3; add supplements. Grooming: Daily brushing to avoid matting/tangling. Trim and Clip: Regular trimming and clipping; consult a professional. Practice: Leading, halter-breaking, and showing in controlled environments. Familiarize with Show Ring: Get accustomed to layout, noise, and crowd. Presentation Tips Right Equipment: Invest in high-quality equipment. Dress for Success: Clean, pressed, non-distracting attire. Show Confidence: Stand tall, make eye contact, and speak clearly. Highlight Features: Emphasize best attributes of your cob. Answer Questions: Be ready to explain your cob's breeding, training, and care. Additional Tips Health and Wellness: Regular vet check-ups; balanced diet. Hoof Care: Regular trimming and cleaning of hooves. Regular Exercise: Keep your cob fit and agile. Loading and Transportation: Practice to prevent stress. Quality Rugs: Invest in stable and turnout rugs for protection. How to Prepare and Present Your Cob for Local Shows: Expert Tips and Tricks As a proud breeder of cobs, you're likely eager to showcase your magnificent animals at local shows. However, preparing and presenting your cob for these events requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a deep understanding of what judges and spectators are looking for. In this comprehensive guide, we'll share expert tips and tricks to help you prepare your cob for local shows and increase your chances of success. Understanding the Judging Criteria Before we dive into the preparation and presentation tips, it's essential to understand what judges are looking for when evaluating cobs. According to the American Cob Association, judges consider the following factors: Conformation: The overall structure, balance, and proportion of the cob's body. Movement: The cob's ability to move smoothly and effortlessly, with a natural gait. Size: The cob's height, length, and overall size in relation to its breed standard. Coat and Color: The quality, texture, and color of the cob's coat, including any markings or patterns. Temperament: The cob's personality, behavior, and willingness to be handled and shown. Preparation Tips To ensure your cob is well-prepared for local shows, follow these expert tips: Start with a Healthy Coat A healthy, shiny coat is essential for any show animal. Feed your cob a balanced diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids, and consider adding supplements to promote coat health. Grooming is Key Regular grooming is crucial for maintaining your cob's coat and overall appearance. Brush your cob daily, paying attention to areas prone to matting or tangling. This ensures your cob always looks its best. Trim and Clip Trimming and clipping your cob's coat can help enhance its appearance and make it more comfortable to show. Consult with a professional groomer or trainer to learn the best techniques. Regular trimming keeps your cob neat and tidy. Practice, Practice, Practice The more your cob is exposed to the show environment, the more comfortable it will become. Practice leading, halter-breaking, and showing your cob in a controlled environment before the actual show. Familiarity leads to confident performance. Get Familiar with the Show Ring Visit the show ring before the actual event to get a feel for the layout, noise levels, and crowd. This will help your cob become more comfortable and focused on the big day. Presentation Tips Once your cob is prepared, it's time to focus on presentation. Here are some expert tips to help you showcase your cob to its fullest potential: Choose the Right Equipment Invest in high-quality equipment, such as a comfortable halter, lead rope, and grooming tools. Quality gear can make a significant difference in both performance and appearance. Dress for Success Wear attire that is clean, pressed, and comfortable. Avoid bright colors or patterns that may distract from your cob's appearance. Consider visiting our Jodhpur Collection for show-ready apparel. Show Confidence Confidence is key when showing your cob. Stand tall, make eye contact, and speak clearly when describing your cob's features and characteristics. Your confidence can positively influence judges' perceptions. Highlight Your Cob's Best Features Identify your cob's strongest features and highlight them during the show. This could be its exceptional movement, striking coat color, or impressive size. Emphasize what sets your cob apart from the rest. Be Prepared to Answer Questions Judges and spectators may ask questions about your cob's breeding, training, and care. Be prepared to provide detailed answers and showcase your expertise. Knowledgeable answers can greatly impress the judges. Additional Tips Health and Wellness Ensure your cob is in peak health by providing regular veterinary check-ups and maintaining a balanced diet. Consider exploring our Everyday Horse Vitamins & Supplements for optimal health and performance. Pay Attention to Hoof Care Regularly trim and clean your cob's hooves to ensure they are in excellent condition. Healthy hooves are essential for smooth and comfortable movement in the show ring. Engage in Regular Exercise Keep your cob fit and in shape with regular exercise and conditioning. A well-exercised cob will be more agile, energetic, and ready to impress in the show ring. Practice Proper Loading and Transportation Practice loading and transporting your cob well before the show. This can prevent stress and anxiety, ensuring your cob arrives calm and ready to perform. Use Quality Stable and Turnout Rugs Invest in high-quality stable and turnout rugs to protect your cob from weather elements. Our Stable Rugs and Turnout Rugs collections provide excellent protection and comfort. Final Thoughts Preparing and presenting your cob for local shows requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a deep understanding of what judges and spectators are looking for. By following these expert tips and tricks, you'll be well on your way to showcasing your magnificent animal to its fullest potential. Remember to prioritize your cob's health, grooming, and training. If you need additional resources or advice, don't hesitate to seek help from experienced breeders and trainers. Good luck, and we look forward to seeing you and your cob shine in the show ring!

Darragh Kenny made the relatively short journey to Deauville from Paris, where he had been on standby for the Underwriting Exchange Irish Show Jumping team for the Olympic Games, and the US-based Offaly native delivered at the Classic Show with a four-star triumph Prix Herms Sellier early on and a runner-up finish in yesterdays Grand Prix. Both stellar efforts were in conjunction with Eddy Blue, a 12-year-old gelding owned by Carol Sollak. In the Grand Prix qualifier, they were 58th of a mammoth 81 competing combinations into the ring and their time of 64.07 seconds, while jumping clear over the 1.50m track, survived the remaining challenges. Given that there were 31 clear rounds in total in the speed class, those challenges were considerable but the time proved too hot for them all, with local hero Kevin Staut and Dialou Blue PS runner-up. Amazingly, the first and second horse were both []