Determine why a horse is head shy, and then use learning theory principles to reverse the behavior. The post Handling the Head-Shy Horse appeared first on The Horse.

A quick scan of any yard will show multiple rugs and blankets hanging on stable doors, stored in tack rooms and worn by horses in the field. Myriad designs are available to buy and there is a rug suitable for every job, any temperature and all weather conditions not to mention all the different colour options plus matching accessories too.Rugs are available in different weights. Its a bit like the tog rating we look at when were buying a new duvet: the weight refers to the amount of filling inside that blanket and how warm it will keep your horse. Considering the time of year and how your horse copes in different temperatures will help you choose the most appropriate weight of rug for them. Remember every horse is an individual, so even if the steed in the stable next door is wearing a heavyweight in the winter, a lightweight might be plenty for yours.Rugs are available in different weights. Its a bit like the tog rating we look at when were buying a new duvet: the weight refers to the amount of filling inside that blanket and how warm it will keep your horse. Considering the time of year and how your horse copes in different temperatures will help you choose the most appropriate weight of rug for them. Remember every horse is an individual, so even if the steed in the stable next door is wearing a heavyweight in the winter, a lightweight might be plenty for yours.Lightweight horse rugsLightweight horse blankets usually have between 0g and 80g of filling, but they may have up to 150g of filling. You may also see/hear these described as rain sheets. They keep your horse clean and dry, making them a good option for damp spring and autumn days, or cool summer nights.Youll choose a lightweight turnout when your horse is in the field and its raining, but its also warm and so you dont want to add unnecessary layers. Its useful to have one in the horsebox at a competition so that you can put it on your horse while theyre tied up outside if it begins to rain.Many horses who arent clipped or who have a small clip will be plenty warm enough in a lightweight rug even in winter,especiallyif they are a hardy breed or a cob or are overweight.Mediumweight horse blanketsMedium weight horse blankets tend to have between 100g and 250g of filling. For many horses this will be all they need to keep them warm and dry through the winter months. The bit of padding inside a medium weight horse rug offers protection on really cold, frosty and windy days, but not so much that a horse may overheat.Its usual to have different weights of rug for the same horse too. In winter, for example, you may find that your horse needs a mediumweight to wear in the field where they are exposed to the elements, but only a lightweight in the stable, which is sheltered and therefore much warmer.Heavyweight horse rugsYoull know when youre dealing with a heavyweight horse blanket, because they are heavy. Often they take longer to dry after a soggy day in the field too, so bear this in mind.Heavyweight horse rugs are exactly what the name suggests: thick, heavy rugs containing over 300g of filling. These are likely to be used in areas of the world where temperatures plummet well below freezing. A horse who is fully clipped may benefit from wearing a heavyweight blanket, as can horses who are old or finer breeds, such as Thoroughbreds.In areas of the world where the temperature is inconsistent, such as the UK, dont be surprised if you find yourself swapping between a lightweight, mediumweight and heavyweight rug regularly, even in winter. Always rug according to what the temperature actually is and what suits your horses requirements. Dont just assume that because its winter it must be very cold.Controlling your horses temperatureUnderstanding how your horse stays warm will also help you decide what and when rugs are needed.Your horse has his own in-built cooling and heating system called thermoregulation. This keeps his body temperature within a certain range, says anatomy expert Gillian Higgins from Horses Inside Out. Sensitive nerves and receptors in the horses skin, abdomen, skeletal muscles and parts of the spinal cord send messages relating to body temperature to the hypothalamus, which is the thermoregulatory centre within your horses brain.Horses keep warm by:Insulation your horse will use fat to generate energy and warmth.Vasoconstriction this is when the capillaries under the skin contract, reducing heat loss.Shivering this rapid contraction of his muscles produces heat.Your horses hair also plays a key role in temperature regulation, adds Gillian. He adapts to the colder weather during winter by growing a longer thicker coat.If you remove that coat by clipping it off, you will need to replace that lost layer with a rug. You may also notice that when your horse is cold his hair stands upright. This is to trap an insulating layer of air to warm him up.What happens if a horse is over-rugged?Over-rugging is generally a well discussed topic, not least because it can cause health problems.Knowing when horses need a rug is pretty obvious, states scientist Dr David Marlin. If you have a horse who is shivering, losing weight and doesnt seem very happy, its time to consider putting on a rug.On the other hand, if you put your hand under the rug and the horse is sweating underneath, you know you are over-rugging.According to Dr Marlin, the difficulty with over-rugging is that its not always that obvious. The trickiest thing to judge is when the horse is too hot but isnt sweating. Astudy undertaken at Sparsholt College that used humidity sensors under the horses rugs found that horses start to sweat at around 25C. That is the upper limit of the horses thermoneutral zone.In the study, the upper neutral limit was exceeded on every horse but only one presented with sweat, even though all the horses were severely over-rugged, adds Dr Marlin. The key finding from the study was that when trying to assess this by just putting a hand under the rugs, sweating was only detected in one horse who was wearing four or five rugs. So we could tell by feel if a horse was severely over-rugged, but not when a horse was moderately over-rugged.Putting on a horse blanket when its not neededThe consequences of putting on a horse rug when its not needed are that youre creating a warm, humid environment under the rug.These are ideal conditions for bacteria and fungi, increasing the risk of skin infections. Theres also the issue of vitamin D deficiency, because if your horse is constantly rugged, theres a reduction in the amount of sunlight reaching the skin, says Dr Marlin.An over-rugged horse will also be using less energy to keep warm, which could potentially play a role in obesity. If you have a horse or pony who is overweight, over-rugging is going to exacerbate that. A horse who is overweight has already got a pretty high level of insulation. They dont need a rug and taking off the rugs will potentially help that horse reduce their bodyweight.Rugging a horse isnt naturalOne of the problems we have with weight management in general is that we mess with the horses natural cycle, continues Dr Marlin. In the wild, horses will eat everything thats available in the summer, get well covered, and then lose this extra layer of fat through the winter, so that by spring they are looking on the thin side and the cycle starts again.What we try to do is the opposite, which is have them fit and lean in summer when theyre competing, and then over-feed and over-rug them in winter, encouraging horses to get fat, which results in incidences of metabolic syndromes.Dr Marlins key message is that rugging horses isnt natural.Most cope well in the wild without our help and when we interfere, we often make things worse, he explains. As long as they are in good health, have a good body condition score and access to shelter and ad-lib forage, many horses dont need to wear a rug or, if they do, they should only be lightweight rain sheets to prevent the horse getting wet and cold.Peer pressure is real!You know your horse better than anyone so try not to be influenced by what others are doing. Go with what is best for your horse. Most can manage perfectly well for the majority of the year without a rug on, even if there is a bit of a breeze or a spot of rain.I can remember being at my livery yard one winters evening, preparing to leave. Every other horse had a thick full-neck stable rug on, with an extra layer underneath. This was compared to my little Bee, who just had a standard neck stable rug on. I questioned my choice. If the chunky Irish Draught and Warmblood types, who dwarfed my 16.2hh Thoroughbred, were wrapped up, surely Bee also needed to be?For the following reasons, I didnt change his rug:Bee was only partly clipped with a blanket clip. The other horses were fully clipped.He had recently gone from living in a drafty old stable block that was outside (and he did have a thicker rug on then) to this draft-free indoor barn, which was naturally a lot warmer.It wasnt predicted to be cold enough to freeze that night (and it didnt).Id owned him 10 years, and knew he was a warm little horse.He had ad lib hay, fed from the floor, and never ran out at night. So plenty to eat and fuel his bodys natural heat-producing process.The other horses all had a haynet, so their forage was limited.Turns out, I made the right decision by doing what I thought was right for my horse, rather than following everyone elses lead. Bee wasnt too warm when I removed his rug in the morning, and he wintered well.Which horses need a rug?Horses more likely to need a rug on, especially overnight and when the temperature is very low, include:Elderly horsesVery young horsesSick horsesUnderweight horsesHorses cooling/drying off after sweating during exercise or being washed on a cold dayHorses who are fully clipped in winterNine golden rules for using a horse blanketDont rug your horse based on how cold you feel. They can cope with a dip in temperature much better than you can.Old, young, underweight and clipped horses will feel the cold more and may need rugging up or wearing a heavier weight of rug compared to other horses.For most horses, rugs and blankets shouldnt really be needed until the night time temperature is between 5C and 10C.Start with a simple lightweight rug. This may be all your horse needs. You then have the option to move to a heavier weight rug if it gets really cold.Wind and cold temperature combined lead to the greatest heat loss.Remember the winter months are the ideal opportunity for those horses who are carrying a bit too much weight to lose a few pounds. This wont happen if you rug them up as your horse will use less energy to keep warm.As the temperature drops, if your horse doesnt have access to shelter, they will need a thicker waterproof rug.Feeding your horse plenty of hay will help to keep them warm too as the digestive system generates heat as the horse eats. This is another reason why its not always necessary to increase the weight of a rug the horse is wearing for them to feel the benefit.An indicator that your horse is at a comfortable temperature is putting your hand under their rug just behind the withers. If they feel cold, a thicker rug might be needed.Understanding rug jargonI agree horse rug jargon can be confusing. Below is a list of the commonly used terms youll come across when choosing a horse rug, and what they mean.Horse rug denierThis tells you how durable the horse rug is likely to be. The higher the denier, the tougher and heavier the fabric of the horse blanket: 1200 denier and above is very strong; 600 denier is an everyday strength.RipstopAs the name suggests, this is the fabrics ability to contain rips and tears. It doesnt mean that your rug wont rip, but that the woven thread pattern runs in two directions and this helps to prevent a rip from spreading once it starts.Ballistic nylonSimilar to ripstop, this type of material is very strong, durable and more resistant to tearing.WaterproofThis refers to the outer materials ability to stop water passing through the rug on to your horse. This ability will decrease with use, but with correct cleaning and reproofing, the rug will remain waterproof. Always follow the instructions on the rug for cleaning.Taped seamsTaping seams is when a waterproof tape is applied and sealed to ensure the seam on the rug will be waterproof.BreathableBreathability is the rugs ability to allow moisture to pass through the fabric away from your horse, thus keeping them dry and comfortable.Horse rug fillingUsually referred to in grams, the higher the gram of fill, the warmer the rug will be.Standard neckThis is referring to the neck of the horse rug and means it stops at your horses withers, leaving their neck uncovered.High neckA horse blanket with a high neck means the neck cover extends beyond the withers, but doesnt cover all of your horses neck. Depending on the size of your horse, it may finish halfway along their neck. This type is a good choice if your horse is prone to rubbing their withers when wearing a rug because it removes the pressure point.Combo neckThis style of horse rug has an integral neck cover that cannot be removed. It covers the full neck, all the way up to your horses ears.Detachable neckThis type of horse blanket has a neck cover that can be removed, giving you the versatility of having two rugs in one. Its usually a full neck cover, which means it covers all the way up to the horses ears. Check what youre buying before you decide, as sometimes a detachable neck has to be separately rather than being included with the rug.I personally find detachable necks useful and I have owned a lot over the years, because it makes a rug more versatile. On very cold and wet days, the neck cover can be added for better coverage, while on drier days it is easily removed.Enjoy the sunI personally love buying rugs, putting them on my horse and seeing him wearing them. Its a running joke in my house that my horses have a better wardrobe than I do. (Its true.) One of my favourite sights, though, is seeing my horses in the field naked, enjoying the sun on their backs and rolling in mud. Sure, it makes for a longer grooming session, but theyre so much happier after time spent without a rug on.My final piece of advice when considering which rug or blanket to put on your horse (if any) is that this equine wardrobe staple shouldnt be viewed as a fashion item. Dont be sucked in by all the lovely colours and patterns; a horse blanket has an important job to do in caring for a horse, and choosing the correct horse rug is vital. Its crucial to know when your horse or pony might not need to wear one at all.Main image: copyright ShutterstockRelated contentTried and tested: fly rugs for horsesTherapy horse rugs tested to find which really workMagnetic therapy for horses: does it make a difference?How to provide your horse with a good dietWhen do horses feel cold? Scientist Dr David MarlinadvisesThe post Things to consider before putting a rug or blanket on a horse appeared first on Your Horse.

Jane Kinsella has named her GAIN Equine Nutrition Irish Pony Eventing Squad for the Pony Eventing European Championships taking place in Westerstede on August 1st-4th. Horse Sport Ireland Pony Eventing Team Manager Kinsella sends a squad of six to the championships, with hopes high the team can reproduce some excellent results from recent years. Ireland claimed the team bronze medal at the FEI European Championships for Ponies in Le Mans, France, last year, following on from a gold medal win in 2022. Kinsella said: I am very pleased to announce the squad for the upcoming Pony Eventing European Championships in Westerstede, Germany. All combinations have campaigned extremely well during the selection period, with some very impressive results at both national and international level. Millstreet winners Carla and Galco bring Championship experience and Zara, Isabelle, Bonnie, Jess and Sophie have posted impressive results in Europe and the UK this year. Its []

One of the most important things to remember when feeding a horse is that they are natural trickle feeders, which means the most appropriate diet is one that enables them to eat little and often. Essentially, horses are designed to eat all the time not twice a day or whenever you can get to the yard to give them a new haynet, which doesnt last until morning. Yet modern life means it isnt possible for most of us to be at our horses beck and call all day, topping up their forage ration when they need it.According to independent equine nutritionist Donna Case, as a rule of thumb you should never leave a horse for longer than four hours without access to some sort of forage. Of course, this isnt an issue when the horse is turned out in a field with plenty of grass, but it does become more difficult when they are stabled or require their grass intake to be restricted for health reasons.For stabled horses, this timescale can become a challenge, so consider buddying up with a friend to provide hay/haylage nets little and often, advises Donna. You may find you need to get to the stables much earlier in the morning or later in the evening than you anticipated.Ad lib forage and horse dietAd lib forage is the ideal scenario for horses who are a healthy weight. Feeding ad lib means their supply of hay or haylage is plentiful and they wont run out before the next time they see you. Splitting the forage into a number of different places, some on the floor and some in a haynet, for example, helps fulfil a horses need to forage by looking for the food. Its called cafeteria feeding, because the horse can choose where to eat. Providing forage in this way has been found to offer many benefits to a horses diet, not least making their ration last longer and making it more interesting for them to eat.However, ad lib forage is tricky to provide if your horse is greedy, and inclined to put on weight. This is when you need to get creative and cafeteria feeding can still be really useful. Try feeding forage in trickle-hole haynets, for example, so that it takes longer to eat. Provide it in different parts of the stable so that the horse has to move around to find it. Soak hay to remove some of its nutrients. Consider including straw to bulk out your horses diet, which increases the amount of fibre they have to chew and eat, without a spike in calories.It can be useful to top up forage rations with straw, which is much lower in calories than hay or haylage, confirms Donna.Lower the risk of gastric ulcersOne of the best feeding tips I was ever given (from a vet) was to feed my horses a small amount of chaff or soft-chop forage about half an hour before riding. It forms a mat in the horses stomach and helps to reduce acid splash back, in turn lowering the risk of gastric ulcers. I find this particularly useful at a competition, when the ex-racehorses I have ridden over the years have tended to be too excited to eat the haynet in front of them. A scoop of chaff was too good to resist, though.This is a good habit to get into if you ride your horse first thing in the morning (before work, for example), especially if your horse has run out of hay or stopped eating it a few hours earlier. You can then ride confidently, knowing that your horse has a fibre mat in their tummy helping to keep them comfortable.Bear in mind that horses who appear to be in good condition and even those who are overweight can suffer with gastric ulcers too. Its not just a disease that affects poor-doers and fit sport horses. The amount of time between eating forage and being exercised on an empty stomach are two risk factors, which can be managed with a good feeding programme.Encourage chewingForage, chewing and gastric ulcers are intrinsically linked when it comes to diet and horse health. Firstly, forage is the foundation of a horses diet and it should form the largest source of nutrition. It can be fed fresh in the form of grass, or preserved in the form of hay and haylage.In the wild, horses forage on a variety of different plants, grasses, trees, and shrubs to fulfil some of their nutritional needs. However, kept horses often dont have access to these and so we owners need to compensate and ensure that they receive such essentials through forage and hard feed.Horses have an innate need to chew for 16-18 hours every day, explains Donna. When a horse eats grass, hay or haylage, they have to chew for longer than when eating a typical mix or cube-based hard feed, which results in more saliva to help buffer the stomach and reduce the risk of gastric ulcers. This is just the very start in the role that forage plays in horse diet.It should be no surprise then, that forage is not only crucial in maintaining good digestive health, but also overall health and wellbeing.When health problems occur perhaps a horse has lost or put on weight or colicked people often turn to check the hard feed ration, but we must always ensure the forage ration is correct first, says Donna. If your horse isnt receiving enough, you may find that they struggle to maintain condition. Painful gastric ulcers become a high risk due to lack of saliva production and an empty stomach, alongside other issues such as colic.How much forage?The amount of forage you will need to give will depend on its nutritional value and your horses overall condition and weight. The more nutrients you can supply from forage, the healthier they are likely to be.Total diet should be between 1.5% and 2.5% (on a dry matter basis) of a horses bodyweight in a 24-hour period, advises Donna. Horses with a moderate condition score typically require around 2%, those dieting around 1.5% and those working harder or who struggle to maintain weight normally 2.5%. If you are able to and your horses body condition score allows it, feed ad-lib forage.As a guide, Donna suggests that a 500kg horse on a 1.5% ration would require around 9kg of hay per day once you have factored in dry matter content, or 11-12kg of haylage. The latter is slightly higher to account for its extra water content. Grass also needs to be included in this figure, but during the winter most of the ration will come from conserved forage.Selecting a higher energy hay or haylage for those horses who struggle to hold weight or are working harder makes sense, adds Donna, who runs her consultancy The Horse Feed Guru in Newmarket. For good doers, it would be better to choose a lower energy one to enable you to feed slightly more.Dry matter is the weight of your horses forage minus its water content. Different forage has a different dry matter weight. For example, grass has a higher water content and therefore lower dry matter weight than hay, so more must be consumed. Dr Laura Wilson talks more this topic here.Carbohydrates in horse dietAlthough it is the core of correct horse diet, forage alone rarely provides all the nutrients they need. So, how can we tell whether the diet we are giving our horse contains what they need? A good place to start is by understanding the key components that horses and ponies need in their diets.Carbohydrates provide the largest source of energy in your horses diet and are required for cell processes and basic functions, such as breathing and moving in the form of muscle contraction. Excessive carbohydrates can lead to equine obesity, whereas deficiency can cause the horse to break down body reserves to supply necessary energy, leading to loss of body condition and muscle wastage.Carbohydrates can be broadly categorised as structural or non-structural:1 Structural carbohydratesThese complex carbohydrates are fibre (or cellulose).Second to water, fibre is the most important component of your horses diet it is, after all, what horses evolved to eat, says nutritionist Clare Barfoot, research and development manager at Spillers Horse Feeds. Fibre is essential for gut health and the absorption of many nutrients. It cannot be digested by enzymes and must be fermented by microbes in the large intestine (hindgut) to produce volatile fatty acids, which are converted to energy.2 Non-structural carbohydratesThese simple carbohydrates are starch, sugar and frutan, which is the storage form of sugar in grass and other forages. Starch is broken down by enzymes in the small intestine, along with sugar.High starch and sugar diets may lead to excitability and/or play a role in clinical conditions such as colic, laminitis and tying up, says Clare.Protein in horse dietThis is required for the renewal of healthy cell tissue, milk production and is also a source of energy.Protein is made up of a chain or sequence of amino acids, which in your school biology lessons may have been referred to as the building blocks of life, explains Clare. Proteins are differentiated by the type, structure and sequence of amino acids. There are 22 amino acids in total, 10 of which are essential (including methionine, lysine and threonine) in a horses diet.Essential amino acids cant be synthesised [made] by the horse and must be provided in their diet, continues Clare. Protein is not a primary energy source for horses and will not cause or exacerbate conditions such as laminitis, tying up or excitability.Fats and oils in horse dietWhile the natural diet of a horse doesnt contain a large amount of fat, it is easily broken down in the small intestine and is well utilised as an energy source.These are sources of essential fatty acids and a concentrated source of energy, says independent nutritionist Nikki Meggison. They are also a carrier for fat-soluble vitamins and are essential for working, performance, lactation, growth and slow-release energy.Clare Barfoot adds: At 3.5 megajoules of digestible energy [MJ DE] per 100ml, oil is around 2.5 times higher in energy compared to cereals, making it a good alternative for those horses who are sensitive to higher levels of starch in their diet.Vitamins in horse dietAlthough vitamins and minerals are required in relatively small amounts, they are involved in numerous essential bodily functions, including the transmission of nerve impulses, muscle contractions, immunity, bone health, enzyme composition and energy metabolism, explains Clare.Vitamins are classified as either fat soluble (A, D, E and K) or water soluble (B-complex and vitamin C) according to how they are absorbed, excreted and stored.Fat-soluble vitamins are not easily excreted and are stored either in the liver (A and D) or in fatty tissues (E and K), says Clare. Water-soluble vitamins, on the other hand, cant be stored and are excreted when over supplied.Nikki adds: Vitamins are vital for the health and wellbeing of the horse and are required for many metabolic processes and chemical reactions that occur within the body.Minerals in horse dietMinerals are classified as either macro or micro, depending on the level at which they are required.These are an essential part of a balanced ration and are vital for optimum horse health and performance, says Nikki. They form the constituents of bones and teeth, are present in fluids and tissues and they play a vital role in biochemical reactions.Macro minerals include calcium, phosphorus and magnesium. Micro, which can also be called trace elements, are copper, zinc and selenium.Macro minerals are required in larger quantities of grams per day in horse diet, while micro minerals are required in much smaller quantities, typically milligrams per day, states Clare.It is possible to have too many vitamins and minerals in a horses diet.More doesnt always mean better, confirms Clare. Some vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and D, copper, zinc, iron, iodine and selenium, can be harmful if oversupplied. When it comes to feeding supplements, its wise to consult a nutritionist first.Antioxidants in horse dietDiets high in antioxidants are vital for supporting a horses immune system and encouraging healing. Providing access to forage is often thought to provide sufficient intake of antioxidants. But while this may be true of diets for horses and ponies in the wild, the diet of a domesticated equine lacks such a rich variety of herbs and plants.Antioxidants are compounds which are able to neutralise the effect of unstable and highly reactive free radicals, helping to convert them into less harmful substances, thus protecting horse health, says Sarah Osborne, corporate development director at Anpario Direct. It is essential to ensure that there is sufficient availability of antioxidants in your horses diet in order to meet the demand for neutralisation of free radicals and minimise the risk of oxidative stress.Vitamins E, C and selenium are well recognised for their antioxidant properties in horse diet.Vitamin E provides strong antioxidant defence and is often linked with selenium, which is an important trace mineral, explains Sarah. The two work together supporting muscle and nerve problems in hard-working horses. Vitamin C also has antioxidant properties. However, as horse can form this internally, there is less need to supplement it.Key times when horses may be under oxidative stress are:When travellingWhen competingIn older horses, as vitamin C production declines with ageWhen a horse is sickThose who are immune compromised, a horse with allergies for example.It is important to know the nutritional formulation and, more specifically, the vitamin and mineral content of your horses diet. Over-supplementation of selenium and vitamin A can lead to toxicity, warns Sarah.Water in horse dietAlthough not a nutrient, water is the most important, yet often the most overlooked, component of a horses diet and is involved is almost every physiological body process. Quite simply, a horse cannot survive without water.Water accounts for approximately 65% of body mass in mature horses and roughly 80% in foals, says Clare Barfoot.Having unlimited access to clean water is one of the golden rules of feeding. Whether its from a bucket in the stable, tank in the field or a natural water source like a stream, your horse should be able to have a drink whenever they need one. There are other easy to increase a horses water intake too:Soak hay or feed haylage, if suitable, as it has a higher water content.Provide a soaked bucket feed.Add water to hard feed for mixing.If a horse isnt receiving enough water in their diet, it can quickly lead to very serious health complications, including colic.Providing a balanced horse dietIf you are giving your horse hard feed as part of their diet, there will be clear guidelines on the feedbag explaining how much of that feed you need to give. If you are feeding it in the full amount, you will be providing a balanced diet for your horse.Some people look at feed bags to assess the amount of a certain ingredient, but dont then take into account the feeding rate, explains Nikki. Therefore, it may look like there isnt much of a certain ingredient, but once you have fed the required amount, it will be meeting your horses needs.If you are not feeding the required amount, adding a feed balancer or a vitamin and mineral supplement may be necessary.Balancers take the stress out of buying feed because they come ready balanced and complete with everything your horse needs. Because they are concentrated, they are low in calories, which is particularly great for good-doers, advises Nikki Meggison.However, the amount you give is really important to ensure that you are meeting your horses nutritional requirements. Even with feed balancers that are generally made to be fed at 100g per 100kg of bodyweight, many people dont feed at these rates. A sprinkle or a handful is pointless as it isnt meeting the horses nutritional needs. This is particularly important for those on a calorie-restricted diet who might have their grazing restricted and so arent getting additional nutrition from grass.Signs of a deficient horse dietSigns that your horse is lacking something in their diet can depend on the ingredients they are deficient in. This can vary, but some common signs include:A dull coatWeight lossDry skinPoor hoof qualityMuscle lossLethargyRemember to factor in how much of your horses dietary needs are being fulfilled by hay and grass.An idea is to get your forage analysed, suggests Nikki. However, as long as youre feeding a balancer or a supplement, you should be giving your horse everything they need.If you are considering adding a supplement to your horses feed, it is worth speaking to a nutritionist first. They will be able to evaluate your horses diet to ensure youre not overfeeding certain ingredients, which could be a waste of money.Take your horse for a forage walkAnother simple thing you can do to support your horses diet is encourage them to forage outside of their field as long as it is safe to do so, of course.Owners can help by taking their horse on foraging walks and letting them pick at different hedges, bushes and trees, says social scientist Tamzin Furtado who looked at how to improve the management of obesity in horses during her PhD at the University of Liverpool. Horses love sticky weed, cow parsley, dried nettles, hazel leaves, ash leaves, blackthorn and hawthorn, as well as dandelions, gorse, rosehips and willow.Before they died, I regularly took my two Thoroughbreds out for a forage walk. Id ride Bee and lead Arnie, who was retired. It was a 30-minute hack to a lovely grassy track with hedges and trees to pick at. Arnie was on a lunge rein, so there was no risk of losing him. They loved it!Main image: copyright ShutterstockRelated contentWhy saliva matters and how to promote chewing in horsesGastric ulcers: why the time of day you ride and feed is so important10 golden rules of feeding for a healthy horseAll about cafeteria feeding and its huge health benefits for horses *VIDEO*15 facts about feeding a balancerThe post How to provide the best possible diet for your horse appeared first on Your Horse.

Todayat 5 p.m. EST, the Maryland International CCI4*-S will kick off with an opening ceremony followed by a reception at Loch Moy Farm in Adamstown, Maryland. EN editor Sally Spickard and reporter Veronica Green-Gott will be bringing you all the action from the ground. Stay tuned for our end of day reports and keep up with the action on Eventing Nations Instagram or on the Maryland Horse Trials Facebook page.Caroline Martin and Kings Especial. Photo by Erin Gilmore Photography.The EntriesTen riders are entered in the CCI4*-S and weve got some new and interesting horses and riders in the mix, including quite a few 4* first-timers. Rookies include the Chiraz Syndicates Chiraz (Asquetta x Casall), previously ridden by Boyd Martin and now piloted by Australias Ema Klugman. Jessica Phoenix will also be riding a 4* first-timer and recent addition to her string, Sarah Irvings Thoroughbred Aeronautics (Two Step Salsa x Satin and Silver, by Silver Ghost). We also have a rookie pair at the Maryland International this weekend: Braden Speck and his horse, BSF Liam (Ballywhim An Luan x Rumor Risky, by Hawkster).Familiar names in the division include Hannah Sue Hollberg, who will be riding Christa Schmidts Carsonstown (Lougherne Cappucino x Nonavic Spyridonna, by Limmerick), as well as Bobby Meyerhoff, who will be piloting his longtime partner Lumumba (Levisonn x Lamara, by Lamarc), owned by the rider and the Donovan Group. Also keep an eye out for Olympians William Coleman and Phillip Dutton, as well as riders Arden Wildasin, Dan Kreitl, Kim Severson, and Erin Kanara in the CCI3*-S. The CCI2*-S division also has some exciting names, including Olympic team member Carolina Pamukcu.In total, four different countries will be represented across all divisions: Canada, USA, Ireland, and Germany, with North Americas Canada and the United States being most heavily represented.The OfficialsDesigned by Ian Stark with assistance from Andrew Heffernan, the cross country course promises challenging and educational questions. As Ian will be retiring at the conclusion of the 2024 season, this will be the riders last chance to tackle an Ian Stark course in the highlands of Maryland. All FEI cross country courses will run through the rings by the Vendor Village, allowing spectators to keep a close eye on the action without having to walk out on the course. The track includes difficult terrain features, like the triple bank complex at the water, which was brand new in 2023. Stay tuned for a full course preview coming soon.USAs Chris Barnard will be designing the show jumping course for the second year in a row. Chris is known for his use of bending lines, as well as his tough courses that challenge riders at every level.The FEI President of the Ground Jury is Canadas Peter Gray, who is assisted by the USAs Marilyn Payne.Bobby Meyerhoff and Lumumba. Photo by Erin Gilmore Photography.The ScheduleThursday, July 5th5 p.m. Opening Ceremony followed by receptionFriday July 6th8 a.m. to 3:55 p.m. dressage for all FEI divisionsSaturday July 7th8 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. 4* Show Jumping9 a.m. to 9:40 a.m. 4* Cross CountrySunday July 8thNational riders will compete in all three phases, starting at 8 a.m.Young Rider divisions will trot up at 8 a.m. followed by show jumping at 9 a.m.Competitor EventsTheres plenty to do at the Maryland International, both in and out of the saddle. Competitors, owners, and grooms are invited to attend a welcome party sponsored by Triple Crown on Friday evening after competition has concluded. Following the conclusion of FEI competition on Saturday, there will also be a competition party, including Highland Games for the Young Riders. Competitors can have another chance to compete, this time challenging each other to ax throwing, stick horse steeplechase, zorb balls, a paper toss, and more.AwardsEventing Nation will be celebrating grit and grooms alike with two awards to give away over the course of the weekend. The first is the Ride EquiSafe Best Save Award, which honors the rider who displays the most stickability over the weekend. This award is open to all divisions. Learn more about the Ride EquiSafe Best Save Award here. Next, Eventing Nation will be giving away the Best Turned Out award to the horse whose coat shines a little brighter than the rest.Stay cool and stay hydrated. Maryland may barely be below the Mason Dixon line, but that sun still feels pretty darn southern. Riders and spectators have to be prepared for the heat this fourth of July weekend. Temperatures are expected to be in the high eighties, and while cloudy skies will help, bring your sun hat, sunscreen, and water bottles. Loch Moy Farm has set up cooling stations for the horses and riders.ENs coverage of the Maryland International is brought to you with support from Ride EquiSafe, your go-to shop for quality, science-backed safety equipment. View this post on InstagramA post shared by Ride EquiSafe (@rideequisafe) [Website] [Live Scores] [Entries] [ENs Coverage]

If you’ve ever fancied competing at the same showground as top Olympic riders, now is your chance – just head along to Hickstead for the Hobby Horse Derby! The five-star Agria Royal International Horse Show takes place from 23-28 July, with thousands of horses and ponies taking part across the six days of the show. There is every type of equine from global superstars jumping in...