If not well managed, pasture often does not meet a horses forage requirements. | Photos.comForage is the most important part of a horses diet and is the foundation to build the rest of the diet on, said Clair Thunes, MS, PhD, PAS, equine nutrition consultant and owner of Clarity Equine Nutrition, during her presentation at the 2026 EquiSUMMIT Equine Nutrition & Health Conference, hosted by Kemin Industries.Horses evolved eating grass with low nutritional value, so they had to eat large quantities, grazing for 16 to 18 hours a day. When humans domesticated horses, they restricted grazing time and began feeding them starch-rich meals to maintain condition for their work levelWe moved them away from a forage first diet despite the fact that the horses digestive tract did not change and is still a forage vat designed to ferment fiber, said Thunes. What is Forage for Horses?Forage is primarily composed of carbohydrates, specifically structural carbohydrates such as cellulose and hemicellulose found in the plant cell walls, which provide rigidity to the plant. Forage can also serve as a good source of protein as well as some vitamins and minerals.While horses themselves do not have the enzymes to break down cellulose, the microbes in the gastrointestinal tract that make up the intestinal microbiome do have those enzymes and can break down the structural carbohydrates, said Thunes.Horse Forage Testing and CompositionTo determine the content of your hay, Thunes recommended collecting a sample and sending it for analysis. Take a core sample of about 15 to 20 different bales and use a proper hay probe to take those samples, she said. Use a laboratory that specifically tests hay for horses.This forage analysis will tell you the amount of structural carbohydrates as well as the nonstructural carbohydrates (NSC, i.e., starch and sugars), which are found inside the cells and available for absorption in the horses small intestine. The report will also show the mineral and crude protein content of the hay.The acid and neutral detergent fiber (ADF and NDF, respectively) are both carbohydrate fractions. The ADF represents the cell wall fraction. The higher the ADF, the less digestible the forage is.Forty percent or higher is quite indigestible, whereas low 30s has a higher digestibility, said Thunes. So, for a metabolic horse, owners will likely be looking for a forage lower in digestibility and therefore with a higher ADF. This means you can feed more hay and not get as much nutrition out of it. We can therefore honor digestive tract physiology by providing forage while minimizing the chances of becoming overweight.Hay analysis will also provide information on water and ethanol soluble carbohydrates (WSC and ESC) and NSC. The consensus is that we should be concerned about the NSC content of forages for metabolic horses, which is the WSC plus starch on forage analysis, said Thunes.In general, experts advise offering metabolic horses, those with insulin resistance, and even horses with type 1 polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM1) a hay containing less than 10% NSC on a dry matter basis.Pasture Problems: Inadequate ForageMany horses depend on pasture for forage intake, yet pasture management often falls short.Horses can graze extremely close to the ground and can kill off a pasture if it is not well managed, said Thunes. If pasture is grazed until there is no leaf left, the plant has minimal ability for photosynthesis and therefore uses energy from the roots, killing the root system. Over time, the plant will die and pasture quality decreases.This leaves horses with pasture that has no nutritional value. Once the pasture is grazed to 4 inches, the pasture needs to be rested until it reaches 6 to 8 inches again, she said.Picking an Appropriate Forage For Your HorseGrass hay contains fewer calories per pound than alfalfa, which means you can feed more before hitting the horses caloric requirement. Therefore, easy keepers can be fed more grass hay than alfalfa and, as mentioned above, the more forage a horse can consume, the better their gastrointestinal health.Grass hay comes in cold- and warm-season varieties. Cold-season grasses such as fescue store carbohydrates as fructans. Warm-season grasses such as Bermuda grass and teff store carbohydrates as starch, which is limited and is why warm season grasses tend to be lower in NSCs than cold season grasses.Cold-season hays therefore tend to be higher in NSC, but not always, said Thunes. Teff isnt always low in NSC, which is why it is so important to have the hay tested and know the NSC content.Alfalfa, she added, is a very different forage. It is high in protein and therefore often recommended for performance horses, young stock, and broodmares. It has a high calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, so Thunes recommended restricting alfalfa to less than 25% to 30% of the forage intake. Feeding too much alfalfa leads to excess protein consumption that cant be stored in the body. It needs to be broken down and excreted as urea.The high calcium and protein, however, can help buffer stomach acid and help horses that struggle with ulcers, said Thunes. Owners just need to balance the pros and cons of feeding alfalfa.Consult your veterinarian and an equine nutritionist to determine what forage is best for your individual horse. Take-Home MessageForage should make up the bulk of a horses diet (ideally a minimum of 1.5% of the horses body weight per day) and be tested for suitability for the type of horse you have. A hay that might not be a good hay for one horse might be an excellent choice for another horse, said Thunes.

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Battling mud, wind and injury worries but still want your horse thriving outdoors this UK winter? This guide shows how regular turnout beats stabling for joints, lungs and behaviourand how paired or side-by-side individual paddocks slash kick risks, a setup now used by up to 95% of yards in some regions. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Winter Turnout First What To Do: Turn out daily unless conditions are unsafe; prioritise movement and fresh air over long stabling. Provide shelter and check fields before turnout. Why It Matters: Supports joints, gut motility, behaviour and respiratory health better than dusty stables. Common Mistake: Keeping horses in for days due to rain, causing stiffness, stress and airway irritation. Area: Individual/Paired Turnout What To Do: Use individual or paired paddocks in winter, especially on slippery, muddy fields; split tense groups fast. Provide ample space and multiple hay points. Why It Matters: Reduces kicks, slips and guarding around scarce resources. Common Mistake: Persisting with incompatible herds in boggy fields. Area: Social Side-by-Side What To Do: Site individual paddocks side-by-side so horses can see and gently touch over safe fencing. Start with a familiar neighbour and monitor for calling or pacing. Why It Matters: Preserves social contact without the injury risk of fights or bullying. Common Mistake: Isolating horses out of sight, leading to stress and fence testing. Area: Mud Management Setup What To Do: Lay hardcore or mats at gateways and water, add a shelter, and set up a perimeter track to spread movement. Brush off dried mud and check heels and pasterns daily. Why It Matters: Protects skin and legs, improves handling safety, and preserves fields. Common Mistake: Letting gateways churn deep and washing legs daily, which softens skin. Area: Forage & Water What To Do: Provide ad-lib hay or haylage off the ground under shelter; space several small hay stations (one more than horses). Check troughs for ice daily and offer buckets or warm mashes if intake drops. Why It Matters: Maintains warmth, gut health and hydration when grass is poor. Common Mistake: Using one shared hay pile and ignoring frozen or low-flow troughs. Area: Weatherproof Rugging What To Do: Use a well-fitted, waterproof, breathable turnout rug; adjust weight to clip, condition and weather. Check under rugs daily and swap soaked rugs promptly. Why It Matters: Keeps horses dry and comfortable, preventing rubs and chills. Common Mistake: Using stable rugs outside or leaving damp rugs on. Area: Fix Gate Chasing What To Do: Make near-gate zones brief work (circles/transitions) and reward rest away from the gate. Dismount in the centre and lead out; avoid halts or treats at the gate. Why It Matters: Breaks the habit and reduces napping and rushing to exits. Common Mistake: Letting the gate become the resting or reward spot. Area: Weekly Health Checks What To Do: Check body condition, skin/legs and breathing weekly; pick out feet daily and log photos/notes. Act promptly on coughs, discharge, warm swollen legs, scabs, reluctance to move or bullying. Why It Matters: Early action prevents minor issues becoming time off for injury or illness. Common Mistake: Waiting until weight drops or obvious lameness appears. In This Guide Why winter turnout matters Individual vs group turnout in winter How to make individual turnout social Managing mud, wet and wind Feeding and watering on poor winter pasture Rugs for UK winter turnout Retraining gate-chasers and yard fixations Health checks and red flags during winter turnout Wet, windy, muddy UK winters are rarely pretty, but your horse can still thrive outside. Done well, winter turnout delivers healthier joints, calmer minds, and happier lungs than prolonged stabling.Key takeaway: Regular winter turnout is healthier than long-term stabling; if group dynamics are risky, use individual or paired turnout in adjacent paddocks so horses keep social contact without injury.Why winter turnout mattersRegular turnout in UK winters keeps horses moving, supports digestion, and protects respiratory health better than long-term stabling. Even in constant rain, turnout gives fresh, moist air that reduces the risk of Equine Asthma.Movement in the field naturally maintains joint flexibility, muscle tone, circulation, and gut motility. That reduces stiffness and the chance of colic compared with standing on a dry bed for hours. Crucially, turnout air is cleaner than a stable: dust, spores and ammonia build up in enclosed spaces, increasing respiratory irritation, while outdoor air is fresher and typically more humid through a UK winter.Regular turnout gives them access to fresh air, visual stimulation, and the chance to interact with other horses, expressing normal behaviours... Turnout, even in wet conditions, ensures horses have access to fresh, moist air, which is better for their lungs. Northwest Equine VetsMost of the UK faces months of grey, wet conditions rather than deep snow. That mud brings its own challenges, but they are manageable with good planning. In almost every case, the welfare gains from time out of the stable outweigh the weather.Individual vs group turnout in winterIndividual or paired turnout is often safer in UK winters due to slippery ground, poor pasture, and increased injury and bullying risk; group turnout still works for genuinely compatible herds with enough space.Herd turnout can be brilliant for social needs, but it is not risk-free. Winter often magnifies tension: scarce, muddy forage patches and boggy gateways create flashpoints, and horses can slip or collide when play escalates. Fights, kicks and resource guarding around hay are common reasons horses end up on box rest in January. This is why many UK livery yards have shifted policy: in some regions, around 95% of yards now offer only individual or paired turnout through winter.That trend isnt about making horses live in isolation. Its about managing risk when footing is poor, daylight is short, and fields are under pressure. Group turnout can still succeed if the herd is stable and truly compatible, fields are spacious with multiple hay points, and youre not seeing chasing, guarding, or bites and kicks. If you are, split the group fast to protect welfare and fields.How to make individual turnout socialPlace individual paddocks side-by-side so horses can see, smell and even safely touch each other over the fence, delivering the herd feeling without the injury risk of fights or bullying.Horses are herd animals; many that have lived in groups initially find solo paddocks unsettling. You can keep them content by siting individual pens next to one another, using safe fencing, and making sure neighbours can groom over the top rail where appropriate. This preserves social interaction while removing the risk of kicking or trapping at gates and hay nets.Although turned out alone, popping your horse in a field next to other horses can help him get that much-needed herd feeling and if hes within touching distance of these horses, even better, because they can safely enjoy social interaction and a good groom over the fence. Horse & Rider UKHorses generally prefer to be out together. A horse that is used to group turnout struggles to adjust to life on its own. They will feel safer in a herd. Hunters StablesPractical steps that work:Build or tape individual paddocks side by side so neighbours are within sight and, where safe, within gentle touch.Feed hay/haylage in separate, sheltered spots to avoid guarding and soggy forage piles.Start with a neighbour your horse already knows; monitor for a few days for calling, pacing, or fence testing.Use clear electric fencing lines for respect without the risk of entanglement; keep gateways wide and uncluttered.Quick tip: If your horse becomes stressed when first moved from group to individual turnout, begin with shorter sessions alongside a favourite field-mate in the next paddock, and increase duration as calling and pacing settle.Managing mud, wet and windProvide hard standings, shelter, and simple track systems so horses keep moving without living knee-deep in bog; this protects legs and skin and preserves fields for spring.UK winters mean mud. You wont beat it, but you can outsmart it:Gateways: Lay stone, rubber mats, or hardcore at gates and water points. It prevents deep churn where horses congregate and makes handling safer on dark, windy evenings.Track systems: Use electric tape to route movement around the perimeter, leaving the centre to rest. Tracks keep horses walking for forage while sparing the field.Shelter: A natural hedge, trees, or a field shelter gives respite from driving rain and wind-chill. Position hay nearby but not inside to reduce respiratory dust and slippy floors.Daily leg checks: Mud softens skin; minor scalds can turn into mud fever. Rinse or brush off mud, dry thoroughly, and monitor heels and pasterns for heat, scabs, or swelling.Products that help:For protection during turnout and support on slippery ground, see our horse boots and bandages.A regular clean-and-check routine is easier with the right kit browse our grooming essentials to keep mud at bay and skin healthy.Pro tip: Dont wash legs every day. Over-washing strips natural oils and softens skin. Instead, let mud dry and brush off, washing only when necessary and drying completely before turnout.Feeding and watering on poor winter pastureUK winter grass is nutrient-poor, so provide constant forage (hay or haylage) and check water troughs daily for freezing; site hay under shelter to reduce mould in persistent rain.Through our mild, wet winters, grass quality and quantity drop, but your horses energy needs go up for thermoregulation. Ad-lib forage helps them stay warm via hindgut fermentation and protects against ulcers and boredom. In rain-lashed paddocks, keep hay off the ground and under a simple shelter or windbreak to minimise waste and mould; wet, mouldy forage can irritate airways and upset guts.Water is just as critical: clear ice from troughs daily and check ball-cocks and pipes. Dehydration in winter is a hidden colic risk. If your horse is reluctant to drink cold water, offer buckets alongside troughs and encourage slurpy mashes as appropriate.At Just Horse Riders, we also see winter diets benefit from targeted support such as gut, joint, or hoof balancers. Explore our curated range of horse supplements to round out forage-based feeding in winter.Quick tip: Space multiple small hay stations along your track to keep horses walking and reduce squabbles. In paired turnout, provide at least one more pile than the number of horses.Rugs for UK winter turnoutMost horses living out in rain and wind need a waterproof, breathable turnout rug correctly fitted to prevent rubs; adjust weight to your horses clip, condition, and the days weather.Rugging is about comfort and consistency. A well-fitted, waterproof outer keeps the back dry, the topline supple, and reduces energy spent battling wind-chill. If your horse is unclipped, in good condition, and has shelter, you may use lighter weights on milder days; finer, clipped or older horses often need more protection. Always check under the rug daily if the skin is damp, the rug is leaking or too heavy for the conditions.Choose reliable hardware, generous shoulder gussets for freedom to graze and play, and tail flaps for driving rain. Swap out soaked rugs promptly and dry thoroughly before reuse. For proven winter protection, see our latest waterproof winter turnout rugs and shop trusted brands such as WeatherBeeta and Shires.Remember: stable rugs are not waterproof. If youre rotating in and out, change to a stable rug only once your horse is in and dry.Retraining gate-chasers and yard fixationsBreak the gate habit by making the area near the gate a place of brief, easy work and rewarding relaxation away from it, then dismount in the centre and lead out calmly.Winter stress and herd tension can produce gate magnets: horses that rush to, nap towards, or lunge for the gate under saddle. Reframe the gate. In a schooling session, ride small, balanced circles near it or ask for one or two transitions, then move away and let your horse rest or stretch in the centre. Repeat until the gate loses its pull. Finish by dismounting centrally and leading out, so the gate isnt the reward. Avoid downward transitions or long pauses at the gate for several rides.If the arena layout encourages fixation, fit a secondary gate or screens so horses dont anchor to a single exit. Keep your aids clear and forward: if needed, reinforce the leg with a light tap of the crop as you pass the gate.Safety first when handling fresh horses in wind and rain: wear a properly fitted riding helmet, solid yard or riding boots with good grip, and if you lead to fields along lanes in low light, add hi-vis for riders and handlers.Health checks and red flags during winter turnoutCheck weight, skin, limbs, feet and breathing at least weekly; act fast on coughing, nasal discharge, warm swollen legs, pastern scabs, reluctance to move, or pacing and bullying.Turnout reduces respiratory challenges versus dusty stables, but winter still tests resilience. Keep a simple routine:Body condition: Feel ribs and topline weekly; adjust forage and rugging before weight slips.Skin and legs: Examine heels and pasterns for mud fever scabs; note any heat, puffiness or tenderness after rough play in slippery fields.Feet: Pick out daily; mud packs can hide bruises or pulled shoes.Breathing: Listen for coughs or wheezes; turnouts moist air helps, but any persistent signs warrant veterinary advice.Behaviour: Watch for bullying, guarding hay, or a horse standing alone shivering; consider splitting groups or moving to side-by-side individual paddocks if needed.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend logging quick weekly photos and notes. Small changes caught early keep horses comfortable and in steady work through the darkest months.FAQsDoes winter gate-chasing mean I should split herd turnout?Yes, if chasing leads to field trashing, slips or rising tension, move to individual or paired paddocks sited next to one another. Youll protect legs and keep social contact over the fence while the stress settles.Is individual turnout cruel for herd animals?No not when individual paddocks are adjacent so horses see and touch neighbours. This approach reduces fights and bullying while preserving the mental and respiratory benefits of turnout over 24/7 stabling.How do muddy UK fields change the group vs individual decision?Mud magnifies risk. Groups can damage gateways, crowd hay, and slip while playing. Individual or paired turnout with shelters, hard standings and tracks protects fields and legs while keeping movement up.What causes gate-chasing in winter and how do I fix it?Stress from confinement, herd dynamics, or habit. Retrain by making near-gate zones slightly work and away-from-gate zones rest, then dismount centrally and lead out. Avoid halts or rewards at the gate for a few sessions.Can a horse used to herd turnout adapt to being alone?Yes. Start with individual turnout next to a familiar horse so they can see and touch over the fence. Increase time as calling and pacing diminish; most settle when they still feel part of a group.What should I feed on winter turnout when grass is poor?Provide ad-lib hay or haylage in sheltered spots to prevent soaking and mould, and check water daily for freezing. Consider targeted support from our range of horse supplements if your horse needs help with gut, joints, or hooves.Which rugs suit constant rain and wind?A waterproof, breathable turnout rug with good shoulder freedom and a tail flap. Check fit daily, swap out soaked rugs, and browse our dependable turnout rugs for winter from brands such as WeatherBeeta and Shires.Winter in the UK is a management challenge, not a welfare compromise. Prioritise turnout, reduce risk with side-by-side individual paddocks where needed, feed plenty of forage, and keep a close eye on legs, lungs and behaviour. With smart set-up and a few tweaks, your horse will roll into spring sound, sane and fit to enjoy the better weather. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Boots & BandagesShop Grooming KitShop SupplementsShop Hi-Vis Gear

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Saddle not fitting or your horse changing shape before your next UK hack? Heres a clear, riderfriendly guide to choosing treeless vs barebackwhen to use stirrups (choose treeless with a channelled pad), and key limits (aim under 80 kg; keep bareback to short, nostirrup sessions) so you ride comfortably and safely. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Setup Choice What To Do: For hacks with stirrups, use a well-designed treeless saddle with a purpose-made pad. Keep basic bareback pads for short, light, no-stirrup sessions only. Why It Matters: The right setup protects the spine and keeps you secure on varied UK bridleways. Common Mistake: Using a bareback pad with stirrups or for long rides. Area: Rider Weight What To Do: Stay within the maker's weight rating; as a rule, aim under 80 kg for most treeless models. Ride sympathetically and avoid long rising-trot sets or jumping. Why It Matters: Exceeding limits compresses materials and creates pressure over the backbone. Common Mistake: Ignoring ratings and assuming all treeless saddles suit any rider size. Area: Pad & Shims What To Do: Always use a treeless pad with a clear centre channel and firm foam inserts. Add or remove shims to keep the saddle level and the channel free. Why It Matters: Correct padding spreads load and keeps pressure off the spinous processes. Common Mistake: Using a standard numnah or thin foam that collapses under stirrup load. Area: Attachments Check What To Do: Choose saddles with broad stirrup attachment plates and a girth system that spreads pressure laterally. Inspect these areas regularly for wear and placement. Why It Matters: Wide load paths prevent pressure points under your seat bones and girth. Common Mistake: Riding with narrow webbing attachments that concentrate force. Area: Mounting & Stability What To Do: Mount from a block, tighten the girth in stages, and recheck after a few minutes. Use targeted shims to prevent tipping or sliding on round backs. Why It Matters: Minimising lateral torque and fine-tuning balance reduces saddle slip and skin rubs. Common Mistake: Hauling up from the ground and over-tightening once, then never rechecking. Area: Back Checks What To Do: After every ride, palpate along the spine, lift hair to spot rubs, and note heat or tenderness. Log findings and adjust shims, change pads, or stop use if issues appear. Why It Matters: Early detection prevents small irritations becoming soreness or injury. Common Mistake: Relying only on sweat patterns without feeling for heat or flinching. Area: Visibility & Gear What To Do: Wear an approved helmet and hi-viz front and back; pair with supportive riding boots and grippy jodhpurs or breeches. In winter, manage coats and use suitable rugs to keep contact areas clean and dry. Why It Matters: Proper kit improves safety, visibility and pad contact in changeable UK weather. Common Mistake: Skipping hi-viz on roadwork or riding in slippy footwear. Area: Light Bareback What To Do: Limit bareback pads to short, easy sessions without stirrups, such as cool-downs or lead-rein rides for small children. Pick a grippy surface and safe footing. Why It Matters: Bareback pads offer minimal spinal protection and can rub under sustained load. Common Mistake: Adding stirrups to a bareback pad or using it for long hacks. In This Guide Treeless vs bareback: whats the real difference? Who should ride treeless and when to choose bareback Weight limits and safety Pads and fit: how to protect the spine Managing slide and stability on round backs Spotting problems early: checks after every ride Hacking out in the UK: practical kit and prep Ataglance recommendations If your saddle doesnt fit or your horse has changed shape, its tempting to reach for a bareback pad or try treeless for your next hack. The right choice can keep your horse comfortable and your riding secure the wrong one can concentrate pressure over the spine.Bottom line: for hacks with stirrups on UK bridleways, choose a well-designed treeless saddle with the correct pad; keep bareback pads for very light, no-stirrup rides only.Treeless vs bareback: whats the real difference?Treeless saddles are not just glorified bareback pads they add spinal protection, stirrup attachments and rider support, while basic bareback pads do not. High-quality treeless designs are used successfully in demanding disciplines, whereas bareback pads are for short, light, no-stirrup sessions.As Julie from Action Rider Tack puts it:Isnt a treeless saddle just a glorified bareback pad? The simple answer is, No. A treeless saddle is made to protect the horses spine, comes with stirrups, provides rider support, and is used in disciplines like 100-mile endurance rides. Action Rider Tack expert videoThat added protection comes from structure and materials: broad stirrup and girth attachments that spread load, flexible panels and mandatory use of a purpose-designed pad. By contrast, many bareback pads are little more than a grippy cover with minimal foam fine for balance work and young handlers on the lead rein, but not for weight-bearing with stirrups.Its worth acknowledging a different view from master saddler Jochen Schleese, who argues that without a rigid tree you cant fully protect the spine or the riders posture:Without a tree, a bareback pad/treeless saddle cannot protect the horses spine, support the curvature of the riders spine, and be comfortable for both... The result is that all the weight is on the forehand. Schleese SaddleryIn practice, UK riders report good results with carefully chosen treeless setups for hacking particularly on wide, round types where treed options are tricky but its crucial to choose well and pad correctly.Who should ride treeless and when to choose barebackPick a treeless saddle if you need stirrups and better spinal protection for general hacking; reserve a grippy bareback pad for very light riders, no stirrups and short, easy rides.For everyday UK pleasure riding on varied bridleways, a treeless design with proper stirrup bars and a channelled pad gives the horses spine a fighting chance on uneven ground. UK forum users often note freer movement in horses who were previously sore in traditional saddles, especially over rolling, rutted tracks and in stopstart traffic work typical of British hacking.Bareback pads come into their own for very light use for example, five-minute cool-downs, balance sessions in walk, or tiny riders (36 years old) on the lead rein. For youngsters, choose a small, grippy pad without stirrups to avoid the hazard of dangling leathers and hard stirrups around little legs. In wet UK winters, grippy surfaces also help stability when youre nipping round the fields at the livery yard.Quick tip: Whatever you choose for hacking, prioritise visibility. Pair your setup with hiviz riding wear so drivers and cyclists can see you in our changeable British weather.Weight limits and safetyMost treeless saddles cope best with rider weights under 80 kg; heavier riders risk compressing materials and creating pressure over the backbone, especially in rising trot or over fences.Natural Horse World summarises it clearly:The main thing to look for in any treeless design is that the stirrup attachment... is broad enough to spread the weight... Always use a treeless saddle pad that has a channel down the centre... Most treeless saddles can only cope with a rider weight of less than 80kg. Natural Horse WorldThere is more conservative advice out there suggesting as low as around 45 kg (c.100 lb) for some pleasure-riding treeless or bareback setups. The practical takeaway is the same: check the manufacturers stated weight rating, ride sympathetically, and inspect your horses back after every ride. Avoid prolonged rising trot, schooling sessions or jumping in minimal or highly compressible setups thats when materials pack down and pressure peaks.Pro tip: If youre close to the upper weight guidance or doing longer hacks, spread force further with a pad that has high-density foam inserts and a defined spinal channel. Its cheap insurance for your horses back.Pads and fit: how to protect the spineUse a treeless pad with a central channel and firm foam shims, and choose saddles with broad stirrup and girth attachments to distribute load away from the backbone.Treeless protection lives or dies on contact area. Look for:Broad stirrup attachment plates that sit over a wide area of the back, not a narrow webbing point that can dig in under your seat bones.A girth system that spreads pressure laterally, not two tiny billets pulling from a single, central point.A purpose-designed pad with a clearly defined centre channel (no pressure on spinous processes) and high-density foam or similar inserts. Shims let you fine-tune to your horses current musculature.For horses that change shape through the UK seasons we see this constantly when turnout increases in spring or rugs come off after winter those shims are invaluable. Add or remove to keep the saddle level, the channel clear, and the panels bearing evenly. If youre not sure, take a photo before and after your ride and check sweat patterns: symmetrical, even dampness is your friend; random dry spots can flag pressure points.Quick tip: Make back checks part of your grooming routine. A soft brush over the loins and along the longissimus helps you spot heat, swelling or flinching early. Keep a well-stocked kit from our grooming collection in the tack room so its easy to do every time.Managing slide and stability on round backsOn wide or round horses, mount from a block and use correct pad shimming to reduce saddle slip, especially in wet British field conditions.Even well-designed treeless saddles can twist or slide on a very round barrel. Help yourself (and your horses skin) with:Mounting from a block rather than the ground youll reduce lateral torque on the girth and keep the pad centred.Checking girth symmetry and firmness after youve walked a few minutes; treeless materials settle and may need a second tweak.Using shims to stabilise the front or rear if the saddle wants to tip. Tiny changes can make a big difference.Choosing a grippy bareback pad for very light, stirrup-free hacks when a saddle just wont sit still but keep durations short and surfaces safe.Pair your setup with footwear that wont slip on wet mounting blocks or yard surfaces. Our range of horse riding boots offers secure tread and ankle support for safe mounts and dismounts, and well-fitted womens jodhpurs and breeches add grip in the saddle without bulk.Spotting problems early: checks after every rideCheck the back after every ride for heat, tenderness, ruffled hair or dry spots, and adjust or stop use at the first sign of soreness.Both treeless saddles and bareback pads can cause trouble if padding is inadequate or compressed. Make these quick checks standard practice when you hack out:Run flat fingers along the spine and muscles either side. Watch for flinching, heat or raised skin.Lift hair to look for rubs, ruffled patches or bald spots forming under stirrup attachment areas.Observe your horse walking off: short or rushed steps, head-tossing when you touch the back, or reluctance to be girthed again can all signal discomfort.Log what you find. If the same spot is warm or dry after several rides, change shims, swap pads, shorten your rides or stop using that setup.Our customers often tell us that a simple post-hack brush-down catches issues a week earlier than theyd otherwise notice. Keep that brush handy in your grooming kit and youll save a lot of guesswork.Hacking out in the UK: practical kit and prepFor UK bridleways, combine a treeless or bareback setup with hiviz, an approved helmet and grippy clothing and boots for safe, visible riding in variable weather.Visibility matters on twisting lanes and shared tracks. Equip yourself with highvisibility gear front and back, and always wear an uptostandard riding helmet. Choose supportive riding boots with defined heels for stirrup safety, and comfortable, non-slip legwear like our womens jodhpurs and breeches.For little riders on the lead rein using a bareback pad without stirrups, kit them out in well-fitting childrens jodhpurs for extra grip and comfort. Keep hacks short, flat and fun.Seasonal note: When winter rolls in and your horse is living out, backs and girth areas stay healthier when you manage coat and rain scald. A correctly weighted rug from our range of turnout rugs helps keep the back dry and clean, improving pad contact and reducing rub risk on wet days.Ataglance recommendationsChoose treeless for stirrup use, keep rider weight under 80 kg, always use a channelled pad with shims, and mount from a block to protect your horses back.Pick treeless (not a basic bareback pad) for hacking with stirrups; look for broad stirrup/girth attachments that spread load.Stay within weight guidance aim under 80 kg for most treeless designs, ride sympathetically and avoid long risingtrot sets or jumping.Use a treeless pad with a centre channel and firm shims; adjust for seasonal changes in condition.Mount from a block and recheck girth after a few minutes, especially on round types and in wet conditions.Keep rides short and stirrupfree if youre using a bareback pad; check the back every time.Make safety nonnegotiable: wear an approved riding helmet and hiviz on all roadwork.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend building these checks into your grooming routine so nothing gets missed your tack, your pad and your horses back all evolve through the year.FAQsIs a treeless saddle just a bareback pad?No. A treeless saddle adds structure to protect the spine, provides stirrup attachments and rider support, and is used successfully in endurance. See the Action Rider Tack expert explanation.Are treeless saddles safe for heavier riders?Most are designed for riders under 80 kg; above that, materials can compress and create pressure over the backbone, particularly in rising trot or over fences. Follow the makers rating, ride considerately, and check the back after every ride.Can bareback pads cause back issues?Yes without adequate padding they can create pressure points and rubs, especially under your seat bones. Keep bareback pads for short, light, nostirrup sessions and inspect for heat, tenderness or ruffled hair afterwards.What pad should I use under a treeless saddle?Use a purpose-made treeless pad with a central channel and high-density foam inserts or shims to keep pressure off the spine and finetune balance. Natural Horse Worlds guidance on treeless saddle features is a good checklist.Do treeless saddles slide on wide or round horses?They can. Mount from a block, tighten girth in stages, and adjust shims for front/rear balance. In very slippery UK winter conditions, keep rides sensible and recheck girth after a few minutes.Are treeless saddles good for horses with sore backs?Many UK riders report improved freedom of movement when switching to a wellsetup treeless on horses that were sore in traditional saddles. The key is correct pad choice, weight management and diligent back checks.What should I wear for safer hacking with treeless or bareback?Wear an approved riding helmet, bright hiviz, supportive riding boots and comfortable, grippy jodhpurs. For children on leadrein bareback pads, choose wellfitting kids jodhpurs and keep sessions short.With the right setup and routine checks, treeless saddles can be a comfortable, practical option for UK hacking and bareback pads can be a fun, lightuse tool. Equip yourself well, listen to your horse, and enjoy the ride. 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