Your Horse is supported by our audience and when you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.Heres how it worksBarbours Raelynn Wellingtons arrived before last summer unleashed its blistering temperatures on equestrians, their horses and everyone else. I had long admired them on the Barbour website, and at one time contemplated getting a light sand coloured pair, but somehow light sand, horses and the countryside seemed unlikely to mix well, so I ordered black.When they arrived my 23-year-old daughter admired them so much that she begged for a pair of her own and so I figured that there was something special about them or that they were trendy, or at the very least would look rather swash on the yard.First impressionsWhile Barbour is a prestige brand, I did wonder if their wellies would stand the test of time, not least because I have bought certain other brands which started using cheaper rubber that really doesnt stand up to the rigours of an equestrian lifestyle. However, I couldnt have been more wrong, and the Raelynn are actually made for the long haul and they have stood up brilliantly for months to everyday use, and hard use at that from poo picking to dog walking day in day out. They ooze quality.So easy to wear and they look great too!FitMy first outing with them didnt, though, go to plan. While they are true to size my usual five was a perfect fit the first couple of times I wore them the low front rubbed against my calf. I donned some thick socks and was surprised that when I discarded these for a thinner pair, the boots no longer felt rigid or rubbed, and so perhaps they had stretched slightly, or softened, rather like a leather pair would. Therefore, from that day to this I havent had a single issue with them and they really came into their own during those sweltering temperatures in July and August, which were warmer than average, and when tall wellies would have been unbearable for those piping hot yard duties.A quick rinse and theyre good to go!EffectivenessNow that our fields have turned from parched brown to muddy brown I expected to be slipping and sliding around, but not a bit of it. The deep tread on these boots really does provide stability on slippery mud.But with so many positives, surely theres a flip side? Actually not really. If you have shingle paths you might find the odd small pebble getting stuck between the deep treads, but thats a small price to pay for footwear that, in this day and age of cheap, short-lived products, provides exceptional quality and longevity. If I had to give them a score out of five, Id give them a six as they are so brilliant. Now the days are colder I will probably retire them to the cupboard and bring out my Aigles for warmth. Come the summer, though, the Raelynns will be back in action again.Buying infoThe post These short Wellington boots are made for the long haul and have stood up to months of hard use appeared first on Your Horse.

February 11, 2026 Ocala, FL Five-star competition during the Winter Spectacular Show Series kicked off on Wednesday, February 11, 2026, at World Equestrian Center Ocala (WEC). The week culminates with the $300,000 1.60m CSI5*-W Longines FEI Jumping World Cup Ocala presented by MARS Equestrian on Saturday evening, February 14. Canadian Olympian Erynn Ballard topped the $32,000 1.45Source

Next week (17 February) is Chinese New Year, marking the beginning of the Year of the Horse, and as we enter this fresh chapter, the Blue Cross has highlighted some of its equine residents who are hoping to find new homes for 2026.Five-year-old Thoroughbred Nala (pictured above) is based at the charitys rehoming centre in Burford, Oxfordshire, and is among those hoping for a new start as a non-ridden companion. She thrives on routine, reassurance, and positive human interaction, said Lauren Bush, Adoptions Coordinator at Blue Cross in Burford. Currently living happily in a small mare herd, Nala could potentially be introduced to geldings with a careful and sensible approach. She is adaptable in her routine, content living out or part-stabled, and enjoys fuss and attention from people she knows and trusts.Good to catch and responsive to groundwork, Nala would benefit from continued in-hand work and confidence-building to keep her young mind active and engaged.Meanwhile one-year-old filly Katie is currently standing at approximately 14.1hh and is ready to move into a long-term project home.Sweet-natured and full of potential, Katie will thrive with an experienced and patient adopter who understands young horse development, said Lauren. She benefits from a consistent routine and regular handling, and currently lives happily in a mixed herd of youngsters. Katie has also begun part-stabling for short periods, which she has taken in her stride.While a conformation defect means Katies future is best suited to a hacking or leisure home, she is expected to enjoy a fulfilling and active life in this role. With thoughtful guidance, time to mature, and correct management, Katie has every opportunity to grow into a rewarding and loyal partner.Nala and Katie would each thrive in homes that value patience, consistency, and compassion. Those able to offer either mare a safe, knowledgeable, and loving environment are encouraged to get in touch as wed love to see these horses kicking off the Year of the Horse in new, loving homes.At the charitys rehoming centre in Rolleston, Staffordshire, Autumn, Peanut and Fred are also looking for new homes.Twenty-one-year-old mare Autumn has been waiting over two years to find her forever home. She is seeking to join a family as a non-ridden companion.Autumn loves attention and is an absolute pleasure to handle, including catching, leading, and grooming, and shes extremely well-mannered for the vet and farrier, said Mia Lincoln-Shenton, Adoptions Coordinator Blue Cross at Rolleston. Shes an absolute sweetheart and would suit a home where she can enjoy her retirement with her horsey best friends. She is happy living out 24/7 or being part-stabled, and she settles well in the company of both mares and geldings.Also looking for a new home as a as a non-ridden companion is three-year-old Peanut, who is a young cob that currently stands at approximately 12hh.Lovely and playful Peanut would suit a home where he could live out 24/7, she said. He would benefit from doing some in hand exercises due to being a weak baby cob, giving you the chance to bond and create a lasting relationship with him.Fred, a spirited 26-six-year-old, is also looking for a home as a non-ridden companion.Fred may be in his older years, but he doesnt act his age and is still a big kid at heart, said Mia. He would be a great babysitter for a big herd; he mixes well in the herd and loves looking after the younger ponies in the field. He does get attached to his field friends so will always need equine company.We want to find all our horses the prefect home and family. Those interested in offering a loving environment are encouraged to get in touch as wed love to see these horses kicking off the Year of the Horse in new, loving homes.To find out more about the horses and ponies, visit bluecross.org.ukRelated contentBringing a new horse home: top tips for a smooth transition *PROMOTION*How to provide a stabled horse with the three Fs (and why its so important that you do)Six signs youre a happy hackerThree groundwork exercises to build trust and confidenceThe post Golden oldies, hacking project and characterful cob seek new homes for Year of the Horse appeared first on Your Horse.

12 min read Last updated: January 2026 Gate mishaps, bolting at turnout and kicks at the field entrance can trigger five-figure claims in seconds. This guide shows you exactly how the Animals Act 1971 assigns liability to the keeper, which practical gate protocols cut risk, and the insurance limits to aim fortypically 1030 millionso you can protect your yard, horses and people. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Keeper Identification What To Do: Map who controls horses for each task (turnout, bringin, field moves). Note the named keeper on rotas, signage and contracts. Why It Matters: Liability follows control under the Animals Act 1971. Common Mistake: Assuming the owner is liable even when staff had control. Area: Gates & Fencing What To Do: Install onehanded, heavyduty catches; ensure gates swing and close flush; cap hinges; remove barbed wire; fix rails; keep electric fencing live and visible. Why It Matters: Secure boundaries prevent escapes and common gate injuries. Common Mistake: Using baler twine and worn chains as permanent fixes. Area: Gate Protocols What To Do: Move one horse at a time; turn to face the field before release; stagger turnout; use competent handlers and gloves for risk horses. Why It Matters: Reduces crowding behaviours that trigger kicking or barging. Common Mistake: Allowing multiple horses to crowd or rush the entrance. Area: Risk & Behaviour Records What To Do: Complete written risk assessments for gates/fields; record specific traits (kicks at gate, bolts if crowded); review after incidents or seasonal changes. Why It Matters: Demonstrates knowledge and controls, supporting both legal and H&S duties. Common Mistake: Storing outdated assessments and never updating after changes. Area: Insurance & CCC What To Do: Hold robust public liability (1030m) and care, custody & control for nonowned horses; confirm Animals Act, thirdparty property, staff/volunteer and offsite cover. Why It Matters: Claims can be large even without negligence. Common Mistake: Assuming BHS personal cover replaces yard policies. Area: Defences & Signage What To Do: Issue clear yard rules; deliver inductions and training; post specific, prominent signs (e.g., One horse at a time, Kicks at gate); record acknowledgements. Why It Matters: Supports defences for victim fault and voluntary acceptance of risk. Common Mistake: Using generic warnings that dont describe the actual risk. Area: Incident & RIDDOR What To Do: Make safe and give first aid; photograph latches, ground and positions; take witness details; log in the accident book; notify insurer the same day; report under RIDDOR where required. Why It Matters: Fast, detailed evidence and reporting protect your legal position. Common Mistake: Failing to collect contemporaneous evidence or missing RIDDOR criteria. Area: Livery Role Clarity What To Do: Define responsibilities for DIY, assisted and full livery; publish rotas; state who is keeper per task and time; enforce one at a time rules. Why It Matters: Keeper status shifts with control, changing who is liable. Common Mistake: Believing DIY arrangements remove yard responsibility at shared gates. In This Guide What the Animals Act 1971 means for horse owners and livery yards Who counts as the keeper of a horse at a livery yard? What legal defences can reduce or remove liability? Which insurance do UK yards and riders actually need? What practical controls reduce Animals Act risk at gates, fields and handling areas? What should you do after an incident and what must be reported? How does liability shift between DIY, assisted and full livery? Whats a simple yard checklist and which kit genuinely helps? Gate incidents, bolting at turnout, a kick at the field entrance they happen in seconds and can leave yards and owners facing five-figure claims. The good news: UK law is clear on whos liable and what you must do to reduce the risk.Key takeaway: Under the Animals Act 1971, liability follows control if youre the keeper in charge when damage occurs, you can be strictly liable, so secure gates, assess risks, and insure properly.What the Animals Act 1971 means for horse owners and livery yardsThe Animals Act 1971 imposes strict liability on the owner or current keeper of a horse when the section 2(2) tests are met, even if no one was negligent. In plain terms: if your horse (or a horse in your control) causes injury or damage, you can be legally responsible without proof of fault.Under section 2(2) of the Act, a keeper is strictly liable where:The damage is of a kind the animal was likely to cause, or likely to be severe if it occurred (e.g., a horses kick causing serious injury); andIt resulted from a characteristic not normally found in horses unless in particular circumstances (for example, charging when crowded at a gate); andThe keeper knew about that characteristic or the circumstances when it might arise.Under the Animals Act 1971, strict liability for damage or injury caused by animals falls to their owners or current keepers. British Horse SocietyCrucially, this means yards and individuals cannot rely on the defence of I did everything right if the statutory criteria are satisfied. Thats why robust risk management, clear control of gates and turnout, and the right insurance are nonnegotiable for UK livery operations and private owners alike.Who counts as the keeper of a horse at a livery yard?The keeper is the person in control at the time of the incident often the yard manager for turnout, gate handling or field moves, even if they dont own the horse. In practice, a livery yard can be liable for all horses on site if they manage fields, gates or daytoday handling.Courts and insurers look at who had control and knowledge at the critical moment. If a yard worker is bringing in a horse thats known to barge when crowded, and a gateside kick injures someone, the yard may be treated as the keeper for that incident. The same applies where a horse escapes through a poorly latched gate or inadequate fencing.So the owner of a livery yard could be liable for the actions of all horses in their yard. What really matters is who was in control (or is supposed to be) at the time of the incident or escape. Tozers SolicitorsRemember, riding schools and commercial yards are also subject to licensing and public liability insurance requirements under DEFRA guidelines and local authority licensing another pointer that control brings legal responsibility.What legal defences can reduce or remove liability?Defences under section 5 of the Animals Act include: damage wholly due to the victims fault, voluntary acceptance of risk, and certain trespass scenarios where the animal was reasonably kept for protection. Used well, they can significantly reduce exposure.Heres how they work in practice:Victims fault (s.5(1)). If the injured persons own actions wholly caused the damage (e.g., ignoring clear yard rules and entering a restricted gate area), liability may be defeated.Voluntary acceptance of risk (s.5(2)). If someone fully appreciated a specific risk and willingly exposed themselves to it (for example, handling a posted kicks at gate horse despite training to the contrary), the keeper may have a defence. Note: this defence does not apply where the risk is incidental to employment.Trespass and protection (s.5(3)). If the injured party was trespassing and the animal was not kept unreasonably for protection, liability may be reduced or removed.Practical steps to support these defences include: clear yard rules and inductions; prominent, specific signage (e.g., Mare in foal keep 5m from gate; Do not crowd the gate one horse at a time); documented training; and wellworded livery agreements with risk acknowledgements. While paperwork wont excuse poor practice, it evidences knowledge, training and voluntary risk acceptance.Which insurance do UK yards and riders actually need?Commercial riding establishments and many livery yards should carry robust public liability insurance commonly 1030 million plus care, custody and control (CCC) cover for thirdparty horses. Owners and riders should maintain personal public liability cover, such as BHS Gold membership with up to 30 million.Under UK licensing frameworks, riding establishments must hold appropriate liability insurance. The BHS highlights that strict liability under the Animals Act means keepers can face claims even without negligence; its Gold membership provides up to 30 million public liability. For yards taking horses into their care, a CCC policy extension is essential to cover injury or damage to other peoples horses during turnout, catchin and stable management.At minimum, check that your policy explicitly covers:Animals Act 1971 strict liability claims;Thirdparty property damage (e.g., vehicles, fencing, neighbouring land);CCC for nonowned horses in your control;Employees and volunteers (if applicable);Public access areas and offsite activity (e.g., roadwork to fields).Quick tip: Keep your insurers 24/7 claims number by the yard firstaid kit. Call early after an incident contemporary evidence is gold in Animals Act cases.What practical controls reduce Animals Act risk at gates, fields and handling areas?Secure, wellmaintained gates and fencing, documented risk assessments, and disciplined gate protocols cut the majority of foreseeable incidents. Focus first where horses and people compress together field entrances, alleyways and stable doors.Priorities that stand up well under legal scrutiny:Gates and latches. Fit heavyduty catches that can be operated onehanded; keep hinges capped; ensure gates swing freely and close flush. Replace worn chains, carabiners and baler twine improvisations. Poor fencing and insecure gates are frequent factors in keeper liability cases.Fencing. Remove barbed wire from horse areas; mend broken rails promptly; check electric fencing is live and clearly visible. Yard disputes often cite vet bills of 1,000+ from wire injuries cheap to prevent, costly to ignore.Risk assessments. Complete and review written assessments for fields, gates and handling zones. Record known behavioural traits (e.g., kicks at gate, bolts if crowded, strikes when clipped) to meet section 2(2)(c) knowledge requirements and Health and Safety at Work etc Act 1974 s.3 duties to nonemployees.Gate protocol. One horse in/out at a time; turn horses to face the field before releasing; use gloves; require competent handlers for known risk horses; stagger turnout times to avoid crowding.Rider and handler PPE. Encourage gloves and certified riding helmets for inhand work with young or sharp horses, and use hivis layers for roadwork to and from fields.Horse protection. For gateprone kickers or bargers, consider protective horse boots and wellfitted winter turnout rugs with secure leg straps to reduce injury if contact occurs. Durable options from Weatherbeeta rugs offer reliable hardware and tail cords to keep rugs secure in UK wind and rain.Daily checks. Walk fencelines; test latches; pick up baling twine; remove protruding nails and wire loops; photograph new hazards and log fixes.Behaviour management. Use training, consistent handling and, where appropriate, consult your vet about management strategies. Some owners find targeted behaviour and calmer supplements support steadier routines; always introduce alongside training and turnout adjustments.Health and fitness. Routine checks with your grooming essentials help you spot rubs, knocks and swelling early, preventing minor scuffs becoming bigger issues at pressure points like gates.Employers have a duty to take action where accidents are reasonably foreseeable... if a risk is foreseeable there is a duty to eliminate or reduce it so far as reasonably practicable. Chartered Institute of Environmental HealthPro tip: Label individual gate risks so everyone handles them consistently Springloaded latch: mind fingers; Soft ground by hinge lead on hardstanding. Small instructions, big results.What should you do after an incident and what must be reported?Record the incident immediately, notify your insurer, and report under RIDDOR 2013 where required; personal injury claims generally have a strict threeyear time limit. Acting fast preserves evidence and protects your legal position.Follow this sequence:Make safe. Secure horses and area; provide first aid; call emergency services if needed.Document. Take datestamped photos of the gate, latch, ground, footwear and any damage; sketch positions; collect names and phone numbers; write down what each witness saw while memories are fresh.Log and notify. Complete your yards accident book the same day; notify your insurer/broker; keep copies of risk assessments, training records and maintenance logs.RIDDOR. Report if a rider or member of the public is taken to hospital, an employee is injured at work, or there is a fatality/dangerous occurrence. For full criteria, see the HSE guidance for riding establishments and livery yards.Time limits. Most personal injury claims must be brought within three years from the incident date; seek legal advice early, especially for significant injury. Equine injury specialists such as Blackstone Solicitors outline these timeframes and steps.Quick tip: Keep a grabandgo incident pack at the yard office with forms, pen, disposable tape measure, highvis armband, phone power bank and a laminated RIDDOR checklist.How does liability shift between DIY, assisted and full livery?Liability follows control: full and many assisted livery models place more responsibility on the yard for gate and field incidents, while DIY arrangements leave more with the owner but yards can still be the keeper if they control access or facilities at the time.Consider these common UK scenarios:Full livery. Yard staff typically turn out/bring in, manage gates and handle horses the yard is usually the keeper during these tasks.Assisted/part livery. Responsibility varies by contract (e.g., weekday bringin by yard). Keeper status may shift daytoday; clarity in the rota and signage is essential.DIY livery. Owners generally handle turnout. However, if the yard controls field access (e.g., locking/unlocking gates, shared alleyways) or intervenes at the gate, it can still be the keeper in that moment. DIY does not eliminate Animals Act exposure for yards.Where multiple horses crowd the gate, a simple one at a time rule and enforced time slots can drastically reduce risk and strengthen your position under both the Animals Act and Health and Safety at Work etc Act 1974 s.3 duties to protect nonemployees.Whats a simple yard checklist and which kit genuinely helps?A short, consistent checklist inspect, record, control, brief keeps yards compliant and horses safer. Combine it with durable, highvisibility gear for handlers and protective kit for horses.Weekly/seasonal checklist highlights:Walk all fencelines and gates; fix or tag and isolate defects the same day.Test latches under load; ensure gates close flush and lock without baler twine.Update risk assessments after any incident or change (new horse, winter mud, altered field layout).Refresh handler briefings; repost worn signs; audit PPE supply and sizes.Review insurance limits; confirm CCC cover; log whos the keeper for each task.Helpful kit to back up your system:Wellfitted riding helmets for inhand work with youngsters or known bargers.Hivis rider gear for dim winter turnouts and road crossings to fields.Turnout rugs with secure leg straps and strong hardware to reduce gate rubs and slips in wet, windy UK weather.Protective boots and bandages for known kickers or when leading through narrow gateways.Grooming kits to spot nicks and swelling early at highrisk areas like hocks and knees.Behaviour and management supplements to support steadier routines alongside training and turnout changes.Durable Weatherbeeta rugs for reliable fit and fixings through the rough and tumble of winter turnout.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend reviewing this checklist at the start of each season and after any incident. Small, consistent improvements are the most costeffective legal defence you can buy.Pro tip: Photograph before and after of maintenance insurers love evidence, and it shows a live safety system, not a paper exercise.FAQsWho is the keeper of a horse at a livery yard under the Animals Act 1971?The keeper is the person in control at the time often the yard manager or staff during turnout, gate handling or field moves. If the yard manages gates and fields, it can be liable as keeper even for horses it doesnt own.Can a livery yard be liable for an injury caused by another liverys horse at the gate?Yes. If the yard is the keeper at the time and knew of relevant characteristics (e.g., kicking when crowded) that satisfy section 2(2), liability can attach. Control at the moment of the incident is key.Does horse insurance cover strict liability at livery yards?Public liability policies typically respond to Animals Act claims, including BHS Gold membership cover up to 30 million. Yards handling thirdparty horses also need care, custody and control (CCC) extensions.What if the injured person knew the horse was dangerous?A defence of voluntary acceptance of risk may apply if they fully appreciated the specific risk and chose to proceed but not if the risk was incidental to their employment. Clear signage and training records help evidence this defence.Do livery yards need to report gatekicking incidents?Report under RIDDOR 2013 if someone is taken to hospital, an employee is injured at work, or theres a fatality/dangerous occurrence. Always document all incidents thoroughly.Can I claim vet bills if my horse injures itself on a faulty gate?Potentially, yes especially if negligence is proven (e.g., defective gate or poor maintenance) or the yard was the keeper/bailee. Courts consider the standard of care; wire and gate injuries have led to vet bills of 1,000+ in disputes.Whats the time limit to bring a horserelated personal injury claim?Generally three years from the date of the incident. Seek legal advice promptly to protect your position and gather evidence.If you manage a yard or keep your horse at livery, todays best step is simple: walk your gates, update your risk assessments, and check your insurance. If you need practical kit to help keep horses and handlers safer, our team is here from helmets for inhand work to winterready turnout rugs that stand up to UK weather. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Riding HelmetsShop Hi-Vis GearShop Turnout RugsShop Boots & BandagesShop WeatherBeeta

10 min read Last updated: January 2026 Struggling with a horse that flicks and tosses his head, especially in bright spring/summer rides? This UK-safe guide shows how magnesiumoften cutting signs by 2964%fits into a vet-led plan with nose nets, timing rides, and legal supplements, so you can ride more safely and comfortably within four weeks of a monitored trial. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Vet Assessment First What To Do: Book a BEVA-registered vet to confirm headshaking, rule out dental/sinus/ocular/tack pain, and baseline signs with a structured ridden assessment. Follow the plan they set. Why It Matters: Accurate diagnosis and safety-focused guidance prevent delays and wasted effort. Common Mistake: Self-diagnosing and skipping a vet visit. Area: Magnesium Citrate Trial What To Do: With your vet, start a UK-legal magnesium citrate-only supplement; test serum magnesium first and during, build dose gradually, and reassess at 4 weeks. Keep total magnesium below 2 mg/dL and stop if no clear improvement. Why It Matters: Controlled trials maximise benefit while minimising toxicity risk. Common Mistake: Stacking multiple magnesium products or adding boron (not permitted in the UK). Area: IV Magnesium Test What To Do: Ask your vet for a single IV magnesium sulphate test and monitor behaviour for about two hours; log changes to predict oral response. Use a safe, controlled setting. Why It Matters: A short, supervised test can identify likely responders before committing to supplementation. Common Mistake: Treating IV magnesium as a long-term fix or riding hard during the effect window. Area: Manage Light & Pollen What To Do: Ride early/late, avoid bright, windy conditions, and use fly masks and breathable fly rugs in warm months. Stable or school when light and pollen are lower. Why It Matters: Reducing environmental triggers often cuts signs more than any single treatment. Common Mistake: Persisting with midday hacks in glare and headwinds. Area: Fit a Nose Net What To Do: Use a well-fitted nose net for every ridden session; check comfort and adjust after warm-up. Combine with regular muzzle cleaning before you tack up. Why It Matters: Simple airflow shielding can give immediate, ride-saving relief. Common Mistake: Poor fit or abandoning it because it looks unusual. Area: Feed for Calm Nerves What To Do: Switch towards meadow/timothy hay or haylage, limit lush spring ryegrass, and make dietary changes gradually; balance the ration as advised by your vet/nutritionist. Monitor ridden signs after each adjustment. Why It Matters: Potassium and forage type can influence nerve excitability and seasonality. Common Mistake: Making abrupt feed changes or assuming hay-only suits every horse. Area: Plan EquiPENS Early What To Do: If magnesium plus management isnt enough, schedule EquiPENS before peak season; expect three initial procedures and plan for top-ups. Pair with magnesium citrate as advised. Why It Matters: EquiPENS delivers ~5053% remission with meaningful safety and comfort gains. Common Mistake: Waiting until symptoms surge or expecting a permanent cure after one round. Area: Track and Tweak What To Do: Keep a simple log of head flicks per minute in walk/trot/canter and change one variable at a time; review every 24 weeks with your vet. Keep what works and drop what doesnt. Why It Matters: Objective tracking turns guesswork into data-driven decisions. Common Mistake: Changing several things at once, making results impossible to interpret. In This Guide What is trigeminal-mediated headshaking? Does magnesium help headshaking? How to trial magnesium safely in the UK Build a holistic plan: management that actually helps When magnesium isnt enough: EquiPENS and vet-led options Feeding and kit: UK-legal products that support headshakers Your step-by-step action plan If your horse is flicking, snorting, or violently tossing his headespecially in spring and summeryoure not alone. Trigeminal-mediated headshaking affects up to 14.6% of horses in the UK, with geldings over-represented and signs often worse in bright, warm weather.Key takeaway: Magnesium can reduce headshaking signs by around 2964% depending on the form and route, but it doesnt cure the conditionuse it as part of a vet-led, holistic plan that also tackles light, pollen, and pain triggers.What is trigeminal-mediated headshaking?Trigeminal-mediated headshaking is a neuropathic pain syndrome where the trigeminal nerve becomes hypersensitive, causing abrupt head flicks, snorting, rubbing, and striking at the face, often worse in trot and canter. Between 1% and 4.6% of horses are affected, around 75% are geldings, and signs frequently peak in UK spring/summer.Owners commonly report seasonal flares linked to brighter light and higher pollen counts, with some horses markedly better in winter or at night. Many headshakers rub their muzzle on legs or the ground and become difficult to ride, with safety concerns escalating at faster gaits where the trigeminal nerve is further stimulated.Despite the welfare and safety impact, only 25% of affected horses see a vet, while 84% of owners try alternative therapies and just 11% opt for scientifically tested treatments. Be in the 25%: a BEVA-registered vet can help confirm the diagnosis, rule out dental, sinus, ocular, or tack issues, and build a treatment plan.Does magnesium help headshaking?Yesmagnesium can reduce headshaking signs, with intravenous magnesium sulphate decreasing behaviours by about 29% and oral magnesium citrate (when paired with boron in research) showing around 64% reductions in walk and canter assessments. It does not cure headshaking and should be combined with management and other treatments.Magnesium is thought to calm overactive nerve firing, making it a rational adjunct in trigeminal hypersensitivity. In studies, IV magnesium sulphate produced peak effects 30120 minutes post-infusion and improvements lasted roughly two hours. Oral magnesium citrate plus boron achieved larger reductions, but adding boron is not permitted in UK horse feeds, so UK owners should focus on well-absorbed magnesium citrate alone under veterinary guidance.Magnesium sulphate intravenously decreased headshaking by 29%. Magnesium citrate and boron orally decreased headshaking by 64%... Moderate owner expectations to a slight reduction in signs, but to be used as part of a holistic approach. Vet TimesAnecdotally, some owners report around a 40% decrease with oral magnesium sulphate, but absorption varies by form. UK specialists commonly prefer magnesium citrate because it is more readily absorbed than some other salts.We recommend giving a magnesium supplement alongside [EquiPENS]. There is evidence that magnesium citrate is more easily absorbed than other types. B&W Equine VetsBottom line: magnesium can help, but expect partial improvement. Use it alongside nose nets, dietary changes, and, where appropriate, neuromodulation techniques such as EquiPENS.How to trial magnesium safely in the UKAlways involve your vet before starting magnesium, test blood magnesium first, and avoid total magnesium values above 2 mg/dL to reduce the risk of side effects. No UK labs routinely measure ionised magnesium, so vets use total magnesium and established calculations (e.g., Marlin, 2023) to guide dosing and monitoring.Because headshaking often escalates in trot and canter, your vet may suggest a controlled ridden assessment to baseline your horses signs before starting. If a rapid, short-term test is needed, your vet can trial an intravenous magnesium sulphate infusion and you can expect a 2951% reduction in headshakes for roughly two hours; if your horse responds, an oral trial may be worthwhile.For oral supplementation, choose UK-legal magnesium citrate products without boron, start low, and build gradually while your vet tracks clinical response and serum magnesium. Reassess at four weeks: if theres no clear improvement, stop to avoid unnecessary supplementation and potential toxicity.Signs of excessive magnesium include sweating, weakness, agitation, irregular heart rate, and respiratory problemsseek immediate veterinary advice if these occur. Remember that diet, workload, and weather all influence nerve excitability, so magnesium should sit inside a broader plan rather than be relied upon in isolation.Pro tip: Keep a simple log of ridden sessions and signs (frequency of flicks per minute in walk/trot/canter). This makes it easier for your vet to interpret whether magnesium is genuinely helping.Build a holistic plan: management that actually helpsThe most effective approach combines magnesium with nose nets, light and pollen management, and diet tailored away from high-potassium ryegrass. This stacking of small wins often outperforms any single intervention.Practical steps UK owners find useful include:Use a well-fitted nose net during ridden work to reduce facial irritation and airflow triggers. Many horses show immediate improvement with this low-cost measure.Ride at times of lower light intensity (early morning/evening) and avoid strong headwinds that intensify nasal stimulation.Manage flies and midges in warm months with masks and fly rugs; consider breathable summer fly rugs to limit insect contact over sensitive areas.Feed meadow or timothy hay/haylage rather than ryegrass where possible, and avoid lush, high-potassium spring grass. Some horses cope better on balanced concentrates than on hay-only diets.Keep the muzzle clean and drydust, pollen, or sweat can irritate. A soft grooming kit used before you tack up can make a difference.If your horse strikes at his face with a foreleg, protect limbs to prevent knocks and abrasions using well-fitted protective horse boots.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend tackling management methodically: add one change at a time, measure its impact, and keep what works. This avoids confusion and helps your vet refine the plan.When magnesium isnt enough: EquiPENS and vet-led optionsEquiPENS neuromodulation delivers 5053% initial remission rates across large UK case series, with a median remission time of around 9.5 weeks after the first set of procedures. Its widely available through UK equine hospitals and is a logical next step if nose nets and magnesium dont deliver safe, rideable results.EquiPENS involves percutaneous electrical nerve stimulation across the trigeminal distribution. Typically, three procedures are performed initially; many responders then need periodic top-ups. UK vets such as the B&W Equine Vets team offer EquiPENS and actively recommend pairing it with magnesium citrate to support nerve stability.We recommend giving a magnesium supplement alongside [EquiPENS]. B&W Equine VetsFor non-responders, your vet may discuss diagnostic nerve blocks or other targeted therapies. Keep expectations realistic: while about half achieve remission with EquiPENS, others see partial improvement that still meaningfully improves safety and comfort. Continue your management stacknose nets, seasonal timing, diet, and magnesiumto maximise the benefit.Quick tip: Book EquiPENS well before peak season. Many UK horses worsen sharply from April to August; proactive scheduling helps you get ahead of pollen and light triggers.Feeding and kit: UK-legal products that support headshakersChoose magnesium citrate-only supplements (without boron) and reassess effect within four weeks while your vet monitors serum levels. Boron is not licensed for inclusion in UK equine feeds, so do not add it to pursue the higher reductions seen in US studies.Look for reputable manufacturers and clear labelling, and avoid stacking multiple products that may duplicate magnesium. A single, well-formulated product is safer and easier to evaluate. You can find a wide range of reputable options in our curated magnesium and nerve-support supplements collection, and we also carry electrolyte balancersuseful if your horse is sweating more in warmer monthswhich are available from trusted brands such as NAF.Kit that often helps day-to-day includes:Nose nets and fly masks to shield the muzzle from airflow, dust, and insects. Explore proven designs from brands like WeatherBeeta and Shires.Summer protection that stays breathableour selection of fly rugs supports horses that are particularly sensitive in warm, bright conditions.Gentle facial grooming toolssee our grooming essentialsto remove dust and pollen before riding without aggravating sensitive skin.Safety kit for you: a well-fitted riding helmet and hi-vis are sensible if your horse can be unpredictable; browse our rider ranges if needed.Our customers often report that small upgrades to fit and comfortlike softer noseband padding or reducing bridle weightlower irritation. While these dont treat the nerve itself, they can reduce additional triggers that tip a borderline ride into a difficult one.Your step-by-step action planAct early, act methodically, and measure what matters. Heres a UK-focused plan you can start this week:Book a vet exam. Ask specifically about trigeminal-mediated headshaking and request a structured ridden assessment in walk/trot/canter to baseline signs.Rule out and address other causes. Your vet will consider dental disease, bit/bridle fit, sinus or ocular problems, and pain elsewhere.Start management now. Add a nose net, adjust ride times to early/late to avoid glare, reduce headwinds on hacks, and switch to meadow/timothy hay/haylage if you can. Use a gentle grooming kit to clear pollen before riding.Discuss a magnesium plan. Test blood magnesium first. If appropriate, start a magnesium citrate-only supplement and reassess at four weeks, tracking signs by gait.Consider an IV magnesium test. Under vet supervision, a single infusion can predict whether your horse is a magnesium responder (expect 2951% reduction for about two hours if effective).Stack summer protection. Add a breathable fly rug and well-fitted fly mask; consider leg protection with horse boots if your horse strikes at the face.Escalate if needed. If magnesium plus management isnt enough, plan EquiPENS with your vetinitial remission runs around 5053% with a median of 9.5 weeks.Review and refine. Keep what works, cull what doesnt. Re-test serum magnesium to stay safely below 2 mg/dL and watch for side effects (sweating, weakness, agitation, arrhythmias, breathing issues).At Just Horse Riders, were here to help you put the practical pieces in placefrom nose nets and fly rugs to carefully selected supplementswhile your vet leads on diagnosis and medical treatment.FAQsDoes magnesium cure headshaking?No. Magnesium reduces signs but doesnt cure the neuropathic pain. IV magnesium sulphate reduced headshaking by about 29% for up to two hours, and oral magnesium citrate with boron achieved around 64% in research settings. In the UK, use citrate-only products alongside wider management and vet-led care.Is adding boron safe or legal in the UK?No. Boron is not permitted in UK horse feeds, so dont attempt to replicate overseas magnesiumboron protocols. Choose magnesium citrate-only products and work with your vet.When does magnesium backfire?Excess magnesium can cause sweating, weakness, agitation, irregular heart rate, and breathing problems, particularly if total serum magnesium exceeds 2 mg/dL. Always test before and during supplementation and stop if adverse signs appear.How seasonal is headshaking?Very often seasonal in the UKmost cases worsen in spring and summer with brighter light, higher pollen, and warmer, windier rides. Around 75% of affected horses are geldings.How does EquiPENS compare with magnesium?Magnesium typically offers slight-to-moderate reductions in signs. EquiPENS achieves remission rates of about 5053% after initial procedures, with a median remission of 9.5 weeks. Many owners use both: magnesium for nerve-calming plus EquiPENS for neuromodulation.Can I try magnesium without seeing a vet?No. Only a quarter of headshaking horses see a vet, yet unmonitored supplementation risks toxicity and delays effective treatment. Start with a veterinary examination and blood testing, then build a monitored plan.Which magnesium form is best?UK vets commonly recommend magnesium citrate because its more easily absorbed than some other forms. Choose UK-legal products without boron, start low, and reassess at four weeks.Further reading and expert guidance: Vet Times latest research summary, B&W Equine Vets UK treatment options including EquiPENS, and Science Supplements magnesium overview. At Just Horse Riders, we stock the practical toolsnose nets, masks, fly rugs, and carefully selected supplementsto support the plan you craft with your vet. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop SupplementsShop Fly RugsShop Grooming KitShop ShiresShop Boots & Bandages

This event is aimed at all primary and post-primary school-aged children. With a wide selection of classes, there is something for all abilities. Everyone is welcome, and it's a great opportunity to r...

11 min read Last updated: January 2026 Cold snap looming and unsure whether to reach for a heavyweight? This friendly UK guide shows you exactly when to rug and what weight to choose for your horses type and clipthink 510C for most unclipped, with 0150g, 150250g, or 250g+ tiersso you keep them comfy, dry and safe without over-rugging. Quick Summary Short on time? Here are the key takeaways. Area: Temperature Triggers What To Do: In the UK, start considering a rug for healthy, unclipped horses when nights sit at 510C; go lighter and earlier if its wet or windy. Check the feels like temperature morning and evening. Why It Matters: It prevents unnecessary rugging while protecting during genuine cold snaps. Common Mistake: Rugging by your own goosebumps or a fixed calendar. Area: Horse Type & Clip What To Do: Rug clipped, elderly, young or underweight horses sooner and a step heavier; hardy natives often need little or nothing above 5C with shelter and forage. Why It Matters: Coat, age and condition change how quickly heat is lost. Common Mistake: Using a one-size-fits-all yard rule. Area: Wind, Rain & Shelter What To Do: Provide a field shelter or windbreaks; add a waterproof layer in persistent rain or strong wind even at 710C. Offer adlib hay to boost internal warmth. Why It Matters: Wind and rain strip heat far faster than dry cold. Common Mistake: Judging only by the thermometer and ignoring exposure. Area: Choose Rug Weights What To Do: Use 0150g above ~1012C when wet, 150250g for 510C, and 250g+ (add a neck) near freezing; adjust to your horses build and clip. Why It Matters: Matching fill to conditions keeps horses comfortable without overheating. Common Mistake: Jumping straight to a heavyweight for early cold snaps. Area: Layer With Liners What To Do: Use one quality waterproof outer and 100200g liners; add or remove liners as the forecast swings and secure them properly. Why It Matters: Layering gives precise control and reliable fit day to day. Common Mistake: Stacking random rugs or relying on fixed weights you cant finetune. Area: Daily Fit & Heat Checks What To Do: Feel behind the withers twice daily; add warmth if cool/tucked, lighten immediately if warm/damp. Ensure smooth fit, 24 fingers at the chest and no rubs. Why It Matters: Quick checks prevent chills, overheating and sores. Common Mistake: Leaving the same rug on all day without handson checks. Area: Turnout vs Stable What To Do: Use waterproof, breathable turnout rugs outside and keep stable rugs for indoors only. Swap to the correct type before turnout. Why It Matters: Stable rugs soak through outside and can chill your horse. Common Mistake: Turning out in a stable rug. Area: Avoid OverRugging What To Do: Aim for comfortable, not hot; step down layers as soon as the weather lifts and allow modest winter weight loss. Watch for sweating, panting or lethargy and respond fast. Why It Matters: Overheating raises risks of skin issues, coliclike signs and spring obesity/laminitis. Common Mistake: Keeping heavy rugs on through mild spells or overnight thaws. In This Guide When do UK horses need a rug? Which horses need rugs sooner (or heavier)? What weight rug should you choose at different temperatures? How do wind, rain and shelter change the rugging plan? How should you fit, check and layer rugs day-to-day? What over-rugging mistakes should you avoid? Whats a simple UK rugging checklist I can follow? Bottom line: start light, layer smart, check daily Cold snap incoming? Before you reach for the heavyweight, remember your horse doesnt feel the chill like you do. Rugging well is about temperature, wind and rain, your horses type and clip not your goosebumps.Key takeaway: Most healthy, unclipped UK horses dont need a rug until night-time temperatures drop to 510C, and many cope to freezing with shelter and forage but clipped, elderly, young or underweight horses need rugging sooner and heavier.When do UK horses need a rug?For UK winters, most healthy, unclipped horses dont need a rug until night-time temperatures are consistently between 510C, and many cope to freezing with shelter and ad-lib forage.Horses have a far lower thermoneutral zone than humans. According to guidance from the British Horse Society (BHS), many horses especially hardy native types adapt well to winter if theyre healthy, have constant forage and access to shelter. They warn against rugging based on how cold you feel. Petplan Equines welfare team adds that until the temperature drops below 10C, its very rarely necessary to rug a healthy, unclipped horse that has access to shelter and forage, with many staying comfortable right down to 0C. See the BHS advice on seasonal rugging here: BHS: Types of rugs and rugging a horse, and Petplans guidance here: Petplan Equine: When to rug your horse.In the UK, this typically means youll start thinking about rugging from October through February as nights swing between 510C. Always adjust for wind and rain: a breezy, wet 7C night can feel like freezing to your horses skin without cover and shelter.Quick tip: Check the feels like temperature on your weather app wind and rain drive the biggest heat loss and change the rugging answer even when the number on the thermometer looks mild.Which horses need rugs sooner (or heavier)?Clipped, elderly, young, underweight or unwell horses need rugs earlier and often heavier, especially in wind and rain or overnight lows.Coat, body condition, age and health dictate how fast heat is lost. A fully clipped TB in work is a different proposition to a fluffy native pony. The BHS emphasises assessing the individual horses needs and management rather than following a yard rule. As Your Horse gear specialists put it:Dont rug your horse based on how cold you feel. They can cope with a dip in temperature much better than you can. Old, young, underweight and clipped horses will feel the cold more. Your HorseWho needs what, sooner? Clipped horses: Start light at 1012C if wet/windy, move to 150250g in the 510C band, and 250g+ with a neck for near-freezing nights. Underweight or poor doers: Rug a step heavier than a healthy counterpart to help maintain condition. Veterans and youngsters: Offer earlier protection to reduce energy spent on thermoregulation. Hardy natives and cobs (unclipped): Often manage without rugs above 5C if sheltered with forage; add a lightweight waterproof in persistent rain or strong wind.Pro tip: Hay is heat. Forage fermentation in the hindgut generates internal warmth a constant hay supply can reduce the need for heavier rugs overnight.What weight rug should you choose at different temperatures?Use a lightweight 0150g turnout for mild, wet weather above ~10C, a medium 150250g for 510C, and a heavyweight 250g+ (with liners as needed) for near-freezing or clipped horses.Match rug weight to the conditions and your horses profile: Above ~1012C (wet/windy): A breathable lightweight turnout (0150g) keeps the rain off without cooking your horse. 510C: Medium weight (150250g) suits many horses, with natives at the lighter end and finer types or clipped horses at the heavier end. 05C or colder: Heavyweight (250g+) helps finer or clipped horses; add a liner for sub-zero spells.Layering beats guessing. Start with a versatile outer turnout and add/remove liners (100200g) as the forecast swings far easier than juggling three separate rugs. High-denier, waterproof outers and good breathability are your allies through wet and windy UK winters. Explore durable, waterproof turnout rugs built for changeable British conditions.At Just Horse Riders, we recommend building a winter core of one quality outer turnout plus one or two liners. That way you can step from 100g to 300g+ in minutes without compromising fit or freedom of movement.Brand tip: Weatherproof specialists like WeatherBeeta turnout rugs and yard favourites from Shires offer reliable waterproofing and robust outers that stand up to wind, rain and playful field mates.How do wind, rain and shelter change the rugging plan?Wind and rain together strip heat fastest; provide field shelter or natural windbreaks if using no rug or a lightweight rug.A dry, still 5C can feel comfortable to a woolly native. A wet, windy 7C can feel punishingly cold, even to a hardy type. Thats why access to a hedge line, woodland edge or a three-sided field shelter is a welfare essential in winter. If your field is exposed, budget for a shelter and check local authority planning rules if youre on a livery yard or protected land.Giving ad-lib forage in the field boosts internal heat via the digestion of fibre, meaning many horses stay cosy with less rugging. Conversely, a clipped horse standing in sleet without a windbreak will need more protection sooner than the temperature alone suggests.Quick tip: If youre hacking on short winter days, visibility is safety. Pair smart rug decisions for your horse with your own winter kit, including hi-vis for riders and a properly fitted riding helmet for those blustery, low-light rides.How should you fit, check and layer rugs day-to-day?Check under the rug behind the withers daily; if its cool and your horse is tucked up, add warmth, and if its warm or sweaty, remove or lighten layers immediately.Daily hands-on checks are non-negotiable in Britains changeable weather. Heres a simple routine: Morning: Feel under the rug at the base of the neck/withers it should be comfortably warm and dry, never damp or hot. Look for shivering, a tucked posture or lethargy (too cold), or sweating and panting (too hot). Midday swings: If the sun breaks through or the wind drops, peel off a liner or step down a weight to stop overheating that can mimic colic. Night: Recheck before turnout or lights-out. Add a liner if the forecast drops several degrees or the wind picks up.Fit matters as much as fill. A correctly sized rug lies smooth over the shoulders without pulling, allows two to four fingers at the chest fastenings, and stays stable over the withers and quarters without rubbing. Measure from the centre of the chest to the point of the buttock to choose the right size. Autumn is the time to launder and repair rugs so theyre ready when the first Atlantic front barrels in. A clean, well-fitting outer plus snap-in liners is the stress-free winter system.Preserve your horses natural waterproofing if theyre not fully clipped. Avoid over-grooming the coat to keep those oils intact, and keep brushes clean our grooming essentials make it easy to care for skin and coat without stripping natural protection.Neck covers and hoods extend protection in driving rain or sub-zero snaps, especially for fully clipped horses. Choose breathable designs and only add them when conditions warrant it to avoid unnecessary heat build-up.What over-rugging mistakes should you avoid?Over-rugging risks overheating, colic-like signs, skin issues, and prevents natural winter weight loss raising spring laminitis and obesity risks.The goal isnt to keep your horse toasty; its to keep them comfortable. Horses are designed to drop a little weight over winter. If heavy rugs keep them too warm, you may lock in autumn condition you planned to lose before spring grass arrives. Petplan Equine warns that overheating can also present as lethargy or discomfort, sometimes mimicking colic another reason to feel under that rug daily and step down layers as soon as the weather lifts. Read more from Petplan here: Petplan Equine: When to rug your horse.Other pitfalls to dodge: Rugging by the calendar, not the forecast UK cold snaps and warm spells can swap places in 24 hours. Ignoring wind and rain factors they matter as much as temperature. Using a heavy stable rug in the field stables rugs arent waterproof; use turnout-specific fabrics outside. Shop purpose-made stable rugs for inside use. Skipping fit checks rubs at shoulders or withers often mean the wrong size or cut.Whats a simple UK rugging checklist I can follow?Decide daily based on temperature (and feels like), horse type/condition, clip, shelter/forage, wind/rain, and workload then start light, layer up, and re-check at midday.Use this five-step flow each morning and evening: Temperature and feels like: Is it above 10C, 510C, or sub-5C? Is it dry/still or wet/windy? Your horse: Native/cob or finer Thoroughbred/Arab? Good condition or needs to hold weight? Elderly/young? Any health issues? Clip and workload: Full clip needs more warmth; half clip slightly less; no clip often far less. Horses in harder work need assistance post-exercise to dry without chilling. Shelter and forage: No windbreak = add protection; ad-lib hay = you can often keep weights lighter. Choose the layer: Dry and >10C: Usually no rug if unclipped; or a 0100g waterproof for rain/showers. 510C: 100200g for unclipped finer types or clipped horses; hardy unclipped may stay naked with shelter, or use a lightweight rain sheet. 05C: 200300g for many; add a 100200g liner for clipped or poor-doers. Pro tip: Keep one quality outer and two liners (e.g., 100g and 200g). That combo covers most UK winter swings. Browse versatile, waterproof turnout rugs designed for layering.Cooling and drying after exercise: Throw on a breathable lightweight or wicking layer while your clipped horse dries, then swap to the appropriate turnout or stable rug. Inside, choose purpose-built stable rugs that regulate warmth without waterproofing bulk. For horses needing a little extra support through winter, condition-focused options in our horse care supplements range can help alongside forage and sensible rugging.Customer tip: Our yard regulars love sturdy brands with consistent fits. Check out winter-proof designs from WeatherBeeta and classic cuts from Shires to build your reliable winter system.Bottom line: start light, layer smart, check dailyRugging isnt a one-and-done decision its a daily check-in with your horse and the forecast. In the UK, most healthy, unclipped horses wont need a rug until 510C nights, but wind, rain, clip, age and condition can swing the dial. Start light, add liners when the weather turns, and remove layers fast when it brightens. If you need a refresh, build a flexible setup with a quality outer plus liners from our curated turnout rugs and indoor-ready stable rugs.FAQsWhen should I start rugging in UK autumn/winter?For most healthy, unclipped horses, start considering a rug when night temperatures sit between 510C, earlier if its wet and windy. Clipped, elderly, young or underweight horses will need protection sooner and often heavier. This typically falls between October and February in the UK.How do I tell if my horse is too cold or too hot under a rug?Check behind the withers. Too cold: cool skin, shivering, a tucked posture, lethargy or huddling. Too hot: sweating, panting, warm/damp skin under the rug and restlessness. Adjust layers immediately to prevent chills or overheating, which can mimic colic-like signs.Can I rug less if my horse has shelter and hay?Yes. Wind and rain create the biggest heat loss, so a shelter or natural windbreak plus ad-lib hay can keep many horses comfortable with fewer or lighter layers above 5C. Forage fermentation produces internal heat and is your best winter heater.Do native UK ponies need rugs in winter?Often no if theyre healthy, unclipped, in good condition and have access to forage and shelter. Many natives and cobs are adapted to cope with UK winters; add a lightweight waterproof only in prolonged rain or strong wind.What rug weight should I use at different temperatures?Above ~1012C with rain: lightweight 0150g turnout. Between 510C: medium 150250g for many horses. 05C or colder: heavyweight 250g+, with liners added for clipped or poor-doers. Always adjust for wind/rain and your individual horse.How do I layer rugs efficiently in changeable weather?Start with a waterproof outer turnout and add 100200g liners as needed. Secure liners properly to prevent slipping and preserve shoulder freedom. This gives you a 100g, 200g, 300g+ system without owning multiple full-weight rugs.Should I use a stable rug outside?No. Stable rugs arent waterproof. Use a turnout rug with a waterproof, breathable outer for the field, and reserve stable rugs for indoor use. If youre riding on dark winter days, pair sensible rugging with hi-vis rider gear for safety.Further reading and expert guidance: BHS (UK), Petplan Equine, and Your Horse. If youre building a winter kit, explore our curated turnout rugs and winter-ready brands like WeatherBeeta and dont forget consistent condition support from our horse care supplements. Shop the Essentials Everything mentioned in this guide, ready to browse. Shop Turnout RugsShop Stable RugsShop WeatherBeetaShop ShiresShop Hi-Vis Gear

Olympic dressage rider Becky Moody treated fans to fantastic insight into her calm, methodical, and highly informative training techniques at Your Horse Live in 2025. She opened the weekends demonstrations with what she describes as a whistle stop tour of dressage and you can watch the main highlights below.During the session, Becky rode eight-year-old mare Magic Dream (affectionately known as Shroom at home), while her stable rider, Anna Burns, worked with the four-year-old gelding, Raver.Becky explained that both she and Anna have been working with Raver since April 2025 and have already enjoyed success in both young horse and prelim-level classes. Magic Dream, meanwhile, has been produced by Becky since she was five and has progressed successfully through the levels, winning the prestigious Future Elite Championship at the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) in October 2025.The walkBecky begins assessing the paces by describing what she looks for in a good walk.She emphasises that the most important element is the correctness of the rhythm a clear, consistent four-beats.She also highlights the importance of a good overtrack: If you look where the front foot leaves an imprint in the sand, the hind foot should land clearly over and in front of that mark, she explains.Becky explains how to assess the triangle in the walk too: If you look at the front and hind legs on one side of the horse, when the front leg is back and the hind leg is forward, you can see a triangle the legs and the horses tummy form the three sides.She observes that Shroom naturally carries a little more tension than Raver and therefore doesnt show quite the same looseness and degree of overtrack.The trot Moving on to the trot, Becky again emphasises the importance of rhythm the clear, regular two-beat along with suppleness.She explains that there are two types of suppleness to consider; lateral and longitudinal.Lateral suppleness is the one you all think about straight away left and right bend, Becky says. Longitudinal suppleness is that front-to-back adjustability.When Raver trots, Becky notes, he already looks naturally easy and relaxed, with visible softness through his back. She explains that, at the moment, Raver is a little too round in his frame, and because he is only four years old, his poll sits slightly low.As he gains confidence and strength, they will gradually encourage him to work in a more uphill, competition-ready outline.The canter In the canter, Becky focuses on rhythm the clear three-beat sequence of outside hind, then the inside hind and outside fore together as a diagonal pair, followed by the inside foreleg. She emphasises the importance of being able to adjust the rhythm.Anna demonstrates this by riding Raver forwards and back to show his adjustability, taking him forward along the long side, before rebalancing him on the short side.Adjustability If you say go, do they go? And when you say whoa, do they whoa? Becky explains that this principle is a fundamental building block of training.She adds that when riding at home, she rarely stays in the same trot or canter for any given time.Becky encourages riders to examine the finer points of their horses training:How much can you adjust your horses rhythm, your horses bend, the contact, the compression, the frame? Very often, the answer is that we cant adjust them enough.Transitions, transitions, transitions Whether they are within the pace or between the paces, transitions are one of your most fundamental building blocks.Becky asks Anna to demonstrate an exercise in which she trots a square, making walk transitions at each corner. She explains that corners are, for her, the most important part of every dressage test:Why? Because this is where you set up whats coming, and its where the judge has the worst view of you hence the best place to make corrections. Use your corners to set up and show off.Becky acknowledges that there have been challenges in Shrooms training that she has had to work through carefully. She explains that she has focused on adding more spring into Shrooms canter. To illustrate, Becky demonstrates how she developed the self-carriage by riding transitions within the pace.Becky explains that a common mistake riders make is equating collection with slowing down.Instead, she emphasises the importance of maintaining a slightly quicker tempo within the collected frame.What I want to feel is the horse holding herself, so that she is on my seat.Becky elaborates on what she means by being on her seat. Its about engaging your core. Im not pushing down with my seat, because I dont want to push the horses back away from me. Instead, I engage my core by tucking in my abdominal muscles and keeping my lower leg underneath me. This allows me to maintain the activity and support the horse effectively.A little bit sideways I say to people that I spend about 85% of my time going a little bit sideways. Most of my work is spent in shoulder-fore, especially on the left rein, Becky explains.She says that most horse and rider combinations tend to curl to the left and do not show enough bend to the right. To correct this, Becky uses shoulder-fore on the left rein, incorporating transitions while maintaining the shoulder-fore positioning. Once she feels the alignment is correct, she begins asking for travers (quarters-in) to start developing the horses gymnastic suppleness.Head on the boards Becky used Anna and Raver to demonstrate one of her favourite exercises, which she termed head on the boards. She explains that once a horse has grasped the idea of leg-yielding from an inner to an outer track, she then asks them to leg-yield along the wall, with flexion to the outside and quarters-in.I really love this because it helps maintain consistency, having the wall in front of them. It keeps things organised and allows the rider to manage the angle more effectively. Its also more closely linked to the shoulder-in positioning.Flying changes Becky then works with Shroom, riding some tempi-changes along a diagonal line.She was quite sensitive to the [leg] aid there, so Im going to do some changes on a circle. The funny thing is, to get changes really straight, you have to have the horse straighter on a circle than you do on a straight line.Becky explains that this is an exercise she uses frequently, noting that Shroom began to relax more during the changes as a result.Related contentThis is how a horse should move in trot *Video*Ride the perfect 20m circle every time with this advice from Becky MoodyThis is why trotting on the correct diagonal is important for keeping a horse soundScales of Training in dressage and flatwork explainedThe post Olympian Becky Moody shares insight to how she trains to succeed in dressage *Video* appeared first on Your Horse.

February 12, 2026 Ocala, FL As the first of 17 in the jump-off, Ben Maher (GBR) and Ginger-Blue, owned by Jane Forbes Clark, set the standard with an uncatchable time for victory in the $117,000 1.55m CSI5*-W Longines FEI Jumping World Cup Qualifier presented by Ethel M Chocolates on Thursday, February 12, 2026, at World Equestrian Center Ocala (WEC). The week culminates with the $300,000 1.Source

As a solicitor working regularly with equestrian businesses and horse owners, I see livery agreements cause disputes far more often than they should as was recently reported by Your Horse. In most cases, the issue isnt bad faith its that the contract is unclear, incomplete, or doesnt reflect how the yard actually operates day to day.Here, I set out what should be included in a livery agreement, the most common mistakes I see, and what each party should look for before signing.Livery agreementsA well-drafted livery yard contract protects both parties. It sets expectations, reduces misunderstandings, and provides a clear route to resolve problems if things go wrong. From a legal perspective, livery agreements sit at the intersection of contract law, consumer law, and negligence principles. Many yard owners are surprised to learn that livery clients are often treated as consumers in law, even where the relationship feels informal or long-standing.Parties and horse detailsThe contract should clearly identify:The yard owner/operator (including the legal entity if trading through a company)The horses owner (and whether they are acting personally or on behalf of someone else)Full details of the horse(s): name, passport number, age, and any known health or behavioural issuesThis may sound basic, but incorrect or missing details can cause real problems if a dispute arises.Type of livery providedThe agreement should specify exactly what type of livery is being offered, for example:DIY liveryAssisted DIYPart liveryFull liveryRetirement or grass liveryCrucially, it should spell out what is and is not included. Terms like full livery are often assumed to mean the same thing everywhere they do not. Feeding, turnout, mucking out, rug changes, exercising, and holding for the farrier or vet should all be clearly listed.Fees, payment terms and increasesUnder the Consumer Rights Act 2015, contractual terms relating to price and payment must be transparent and fair. Surprise charges or unclear fee structures are one of the most common reasons livery disputes escalate. A strong contract will cover:Weekly or monthly livery feesWhen and how payment must be madeDeposits or advance paymentsCharges for extras (e.g. holding, clipping, rehabilitation care)When and how fees can be increasedFrom a legal perspective, fee increases should be transparent and reasonable, with notice periods clearly stated.Services, care standards and limitationsThe contract should describe the standard of care provided and, just as importantly, any limitations.For example:Routine care versus emergency decision-makingWhether staff are authorised to call a vet or farrier in an emergencySpending limits without owner consentAmbiguity here often leads to conflict when urgent decisions are made in the horses best interests.Veterinary care, insurance and riskA livery agreement should address:Responsibility for veterinary, farriery, dentistry, and physiotherapy costsInsurance requirements (including public liability cover)What happens if a horse is uninsuredMost yards will also include risk warnings, acknowledging that equestrian activities carry inherent risks.Liability and responsibilityLiability clauses must be approached with particular care. Under the Unfair Contract Terms Act 1977 and the Consumer Rights Act 2015, yard owners cannot exclude or restrict liability for death or personal injury caused by negligence, and any limitation of liability must be reasonable and clearly explained. This is one of the most sensitive areas and one of the most poorly drafted in many agreements.The contract should explain:What the yard owner is responsible forWhat the horse owner remains responsible forLimits on liability (as far as legally permitted)It is important to note that liability cannot simply be signed away particularly where negligence is involved.Yard rules and behaviourMany yards attach yard rules to the contract. These should cover:Health and safety requirementsRiding, turnout, and arena useVisitor rulesDog policiesBiosecurity and disease controlThe contract should confirm that the horse owner agrees to comply with these rules and that they may be updated from time to time. Notice, termination and removal of horsesNotice and termination provisions should be carefully drafted with both practicality and enforceability in mind. Under our consumer law, notice periods and termination rights must be balanced and fair, rather than heavily weighted in favour of the yard owner. Clear exit terms are essential. The contract should state:Notice periods required by each partyGrounds for immediate terminationWhat happens if fees are unpaidRights to remove or retain a horse in certain circumstancesUnclear termination clauses are one of the fastest ways a disagreement escalates into a serious dispute.Common livery contract mistakes and omissionsFrom my experience, the same issues arise repeatedly include the following:Using generic or outdated templatesMany yard owners rely on free or old templates that do not reflect current law or how the yard actually operates. A contract that doesnt match reality is risky for everyone.Vague descriptions of servicesPhrases like normal care or as required are common sources of disagreement. If something matters, it should be written down.No clear emergency authorityDisputes frequently arise where a yard has acted quickly in an emergency but without express written authority. Clear consent provisions protect both sides.Unenforceable liability clausesOverly broad exclusions of liability may provide a false sense of security to yard owners and can be challenged if they go beyond what the law allows.No practical termination processI often see contracts that state a notice period, but they give no guidance on what happens during that period or how disputes about departure are handled.What yard owners should look for before signingFrom a yard owners perspective, the contract should:Reflect how the yard genuinely operatesClearly limit responsibilities to what is realistically manageableInclude robust payment and termination provisionsProtect staff and other liveriesComply with consumer and negligence lawA good contract is not about being harsh it is about being clear and fair.What horse owners should look for before signingHorse owners should take time to:Read exactly what care is included (and what is not)Understand fee increases and extra chargesCheck notice periods and exit termsLook closely at liability and risk wordingEnsure emergency veterinary authority is sensible and proportionateIf something feels unclear, it is worth asking for clarification before the horse arrives.Final thoughtsFrom a legal and commercial perspective, a livery yard contract is more than an administrative document it is a risk management tool and, increasingly, a consumer compliance document.A livery yard contract should support a good working relationship, not undermine it. Most disputes could have been avoided with clearer drafting and better alignment between expectations and reality.Whether you are a yard owner or a horse owner, taking advice on a livery agreement before problems arise is almost always time and cost well spent.This article is for general information only and does not constitute legal advice. If you are a yard owner or horse owner seeking advice on a specific agreement or dispute, taking early legal advice can prevent issues escalating and protect both your business and your horse. Images ShutterstockRelated contentSpike in livery yard legal battles amid inadequate contracts and rising feesTop tips to protect your yard from thieves Great ways to enrich your horses environment and make them happierEssential guide to horse health insurance: costly gastric ulcers and colic are leading causes of claimsExpert guide to public liability insurance for horse riders *Sponsored*The post What should be in a livery yard contract? Solicitor explains what to look for before signing appeared first on Your Horse.