Last year, I decided Bo needed a new rug to get him through the winter, and with the knowledge that I would be moving to Australia in 2022, I wanted to get him something of good quality that was going to last him. I needed something that was going to give me peace of mind that it wouldn't leak through within a short time or break/ rip due to a lack of quality.It took me a while to decide whether I wanted to create a wardrobe of rugs for Bo, or if I wanted to do a rugging system which I learned had become popular. There are pros and cons to both but in the end, I decided to try out a rugging system, and to do that, I bought the Premier Equine Buster 50g Turnout Rug with Snug-Fit Neck Cover.This rug alone is 50g in weight and is an 'outer shell' for the rug liners, which can be purchased separately to increase the weight, and thus the warmth, of the rug. Alongside this outer shell, I also bought the 100g liner and the 200g liner. The neck is detachable which is ideal for the changeable weather we have here in Scotland.What doIthink?I think this rugging system was the best decision for Bo! I love how high the shoulders are cut as it keeps his little chest warm, and I also love the HUGE tail-flap as no wetness seeps in with the CONSTANT rain in Scotland. It is also very breathable so my boy is also comfortable.I also find there is no slipping with this rug. I always worry after Bo rolls that his rugs will slip and potentially be a hazard as I have had many a rug in the past which has done this and there is little you can do about it. It is a comfort to me now that the rug just falls back into place perfectly after Bo has his muddy rolls.The liners are really easy to attach and detach, also these can be used for stable rugs too, though I currently don't have any Premier Equine stable rugs yet! The idea though is that you can leave the liner on and just change the outer shell to suit when you go from field to stable.I will say that this rugging system is a bit more expensive to gather everything. It cost me 277 to get the 50g rug and two liners which is quite a substantial amount at once. However, you get what you pay for in my opinion. The rugs are fantastic and they last! So while it might be a cheaper one off payment for a regular rug, you will probably end up spending more anyway with alternate rug weights.I couldn't recommend this rugging system more. They are true to size, excellent quality and attractive to look at too! I like them so much that now I have used it for the winter, I have decided to get another one, though this one is a 0g fill (158 - it should be here in a couple days, how exciting!) I felt that would be useful for Bo as it means he has a rainsheet for summer and has a wide range of weights for the Scottish weather.Here is my collection for Bo so far:Buster 50g Turnout Rug with Snug-Fit Neck CoverBuster Zero Turnout Rug with Classic Neck Cover100g Standard Rug Liner200g Standard Rug LinerSo as you can see, from two turnout rugs and two liners, I can make the following combinations with and without a neck cover:0g Rainsheet50g Turnout Rug100g Turnout Rug150g Turnout Rug200g Turnout Rug250g Turnout RugPersonally, I find it so useful to have a change of rug as well because when they get absolutely soaked with the rain, you can switch to the other rug and you know that they are both equally good quality.Have you tried Premier Equine rugs? I would recommend if you haven't and are looking for a durable (and attractive) rug for your lovely horse!Happy Horsing!Check out BB Equine here!

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For the large majority of horse owners, rugs are a necessity during winter. Winter rugs can be an important investment but looking after that investment can feel like a minefield. There are various reasons we choose to buy and use rugs on our horses;Providing warmth during the colder months to promote comfortable temperatures for good healthFor cleanliness - reducing damage to the natural coat due to dirt and weathering on a daily basis and before a competitionAs a replacement barrier after clippingTo help keep weight on horse's who otherwise lose condition easily.A good quality winter rug can set you back around 180 + depending on the weight and style of rug that you require; therefore, it is important to care for this rug correctly in order to get the most out of your investment. Caring for your winter rugs correctly helps to safeguard the performance, increase the lifespan of the rug and create a positive environment for good health and hygiene, equating in fewerreplacements and helps save money.The horse's coat produces natural grease on a daily basis, which contributes to a healthy, shiny coat. However, excess build-up of this natural grease on the inside of a rug can not only damage the fabric but also, if left to accumulate for too long, can lead to rubbing and irritation when layered between the horse's skin and the rug for long periods of time. For this reason, it is important to keep the lining of your rug as clean as possible, in line with good hygiene practices.Dirt can have many detrimental effects on your winter rugs. Excess dirt and moisture can cause mould spores and damp, leading to poor health effects such as breathing issues or skin irritation alongside damaging the integrated waterproof membrane (which if damaged - is often irreparable). Not only is a dirty rug aesthetically displeasing - it often causes damage to the integrity of the fabrics meaning that your rug is more likely to tear, rip, and otherwise deteriorate - shortening the overall lifespan dramatically.Caring for your rug in a thoughtful and effective way between professional washes will help you get the most out of your winter rug wardrobe. It is vital that you always follow the manufacturers cleaning instructions. On a daily or required basis, it is a good idea to gently remove any excess dirt between wears to help reduce the detrimental effect on your rug fabric. We would advise that this should be done by using a damp cloth or sponge whenever necessary - but leave yourself time to allow the rug to dry naturally before wear. Please note that we would strongly advise against using a brush to remove excess dirt as the bristles can lead to wear against the fabric - damaging the coating and fibres and therefore reducing the integrity of the rug.If you feel that your rug requires more than a gentle wipe-down to remove the dirt - you can hand-wash your rug at less than 30C using only non-bio detergents. You could do this in a bath or large tub/bucket, as you see fit. Smaller thin stable rugs may fit comfortably inside a domestic washing machine - however, we would dissuade you from washing a turnout rug in a domestic washing machine as the aggressive spin can fracture and damage the waterproof membrane inside. It is vital that your rug is left to dry naturally in a well-ventilated area as excess moisture or a humid environment is not suitable for drying of turnout rugs.Winter can feel a very long season and thicker, heavier rugs can be more difficult to maintain. It is a traditional and effective protocol to use a cotton sheet or thin stable sheet as a base rug/under layer to protect the outer rug from deterioration from the coat's natural grease. It is much easier to wash a thin stable sheet at home than a thick over/outer rug, so this is often the best routine for good hygiene.As and when your winter rugs do require a professional wash - make sure you take them to a reputable service that will use the correct products on your rugs in order to protect them for the next year. As a rule, you should only fold and store a clean rug, and this should be done in a cool, dark area (out of direct sunlight or artificial heat).Premier Equine rugs are renowned for providing effective protection and superior comfort for your horse, throughout all seasons. Our Titan Trio complete rugging system is an inspired design used by over 10,000 owners across the globe. Providing one rug, two necks, and three liners to cover four weights - the Titan Trio is the ultimate rugging system for your horse.Take a look at our full range of horse rugs to find what you need for the incoming season.

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There are multiple soaked feeds on the market, including Fast Fibre Horse Feed by Allen & Page, and they must be mixed with water before they are fed to a horse. This sort of feed is a really useful addition to a horses diet,because it helps to increase a horses water intake and aids hydration levels.Providing water is one of the golden rules of feeding a horse, and I personally always give a soaked feed to my own equines. I have done for years. The market has come a long way since adding water to hard feed meant soakingsugar beetshreds or whipping up abran mash there is a vast range now, many of which I will discuss below.When you consider that every adult horse is made up of between 65-75% water, its easier to understand why water is so essential to gut health, and providing a soaked feed can help to keep horrible health problems, like colic, at bay. Water is required for every process in the horses body, so dont underestimate how big a part it plays in keeping them fit and health.All about Fast Fibre Horse FeedAccording to its manufacturer, this is a low-calorie feed that is ideal for feeding to horses and ponies who hold their weight well or who become excitable even when fed a low-energy feed. Fast Fibre Horse Feed is ready to be fed in under a minute. Simply pour it to a bucket and add twice as much water (so, for example, if you put 1 scoop of dry feed in you then need to add two scoops of water). Stir well. Wait for 60 seconds before giving to a horse. The soaking process is clearly explained on the feedbag, so make sure you read and follow these instructions.Fast Fibre Horse Feed is balanced with vitamins and minerals, and contains prebiotics to aid digestion plus linseed, which is a good source of Omega 3. It has a combined starch and sugar level of just 7.5% and is high in fibre 26%. This makes it suitable for feeding to equines at rest or in light work, those prone to laminitis, older horses with poor teeth that makes chewing difficult, and horses with intolerances to barley, alfalfa and/or molasses.Soaking time: 60 secondsFind out more about the Allen & Page range of horse feedsAll about Dengie Alfa-BeetI always have a bag of this feed in my feed bin. The first equine I gave it to was my elderly first pony, Prudence, who started struggling to chew as she approached her thirties, and she loved eating this mash especially when I gave it to her warm.Alfa-Beet is a high-fibre feed that combines alfalfa and unmolassed sugar beet, making it ideal for horses who need to gain weight and condition while aiding hydration.According to Dengie, Alfa-Beet provides slow-release energy in the form of highly digestible fibre. It provides 10.5MJ/kg of Digestible Energy, which makes it comparable to a cool mix, but with much lower levels of starch.Most recently I fed this to my ex-racehorse King, who was really struggling to hold his weight one winter but as I soon as I increased his hard feed he had too much energy when being ridden. I emailed Dengie and a nutritionist suggested Alfa-Beet due to its low levels of starch. It transformed King.It takes a little longer to soak Alfa-Beet than the Fast Fibre Horse Feed 15 minutes when mixed with hot water and two hours when cold water is used but I find this easy to work around. My usual routine is to soak it the evening before. I like to feed it on the sloppy side, so I add a bit more water at feed time too.Alfa-Beet can be fed as a partial hay replacer or even a total hay replacer, which may be necessary in very old horses with few teeth, when used alongside another fibre feed. More is explained about this on Dengies website.Soaking time: 15 minutes (hot water) or 2 hours (cold water)Find out more about Alfa-BeetAll about Spillers Speedy-Mash FibreWhen dry, Speedy-Mash Fibre is in pellet form and it turns into a mash in 60 seconds, releasing a tasty apple aroma at the same time. According to Spillers, this mash helps to maintain topline and muscle tone, because it provides quality protein in the horses diet. It is also high in fibre and low in sugar and starch, all of which means it is suitable for any equines who are overweight or are good doers and so are on a calorie-restricted diet.Speedy-Mash Fibre also contains prebiotic FOS and probiotic live yeast to help support optimum digestive health, plus it has a full range of vitamins and minerals, such as chelated zinc and copper to help maximise absorption. As with the other soaked feeds I have discussed so far, it is easy to eat for horses with poor or missing teeth. In fact, Spillers also makes a senior version of this Speedy-Mash specifically for older horses and ponies.Soaking time: 60 secondsFind out more about Speedy-Mash FibreAll about TopSpecs Linseed MashTopSpec describes its Linseed Mash as combining the best of traditional knowledge with modern technology. It is a blend of ingredients that help to add condition, with just 11% starch. Emphasis on linseed provides significant amounts of intracellular oil and protein, including muco-polysaccharides. High levels of fibre are provided oatbran, which is said to be sympathetic to a horses digestive system.The flaked maize and peas content of Linseed Mash means it looks a little different to other soaked horse feeds because it has more of a mix-like appearance. It takes five minutes to soak at a feed/water ratio of 1:1 (ie, equal amounts of feed and warm or cold water mixed together).One of the ways Linseed Mash is superior to most straights is that it is supplemented with three major minerals: calcium, sodium and magnesium, adds TopSpec.However, it is important to note that it isnt a complete feed. Linseed Mash doesnt contain any added vitamins or trace elements and is designed to be fed alongside a feed balancer to ensure your horse doesnt miss out on any vital nutritional elements. It can also be mixed with any other chaff or horse feed.Soaking time: 5 minutesFind out more about Linseed MashAll about Baileys Keep Calm MashA common theme with different brands of soaked horse feeds is that they are well suited to older horses who find a soft mash easier to chew than other sources of long fibre, such as hay and chaff. This is also the case with Baileys Keep Calm Mash, which is targeted at the following types of horses as well:Horses at rest or in light to moderate work, who need help to maintain condition and a level head.Equines in need of a low-starch, low-sugar diet that is high in fibre (overweight horses and those prone to laminitis, for example).Fussy eaters.Keep Calm Mash is a fully balanced feed, which means it can be fed on its own. A combination of beet pulp and soya hulls provides easily digestible super-fibres, which is good for the equine gut, and its overall starch and sugar levels are low (7% and less than 5% respectively).This mash also contains prebiotic and antioxidants like vitamin E, for optimum gut heath and digestive support. It is barley-free, low in molasses and includes linseed which is high in Omega 3 fatty acids for coat shine, providing horses with non-heating energy that maintains condition without making them too hot to handle.Instructions are to soak Keep Calm Mash two scoops of water per one scoop of dry mash for 10 minutes in cold water before it is ready to feed.Soaking time: 10 minutes (cold water)Find out more about Keep Calm MashAll about Mole Valley Farmers Quick Soak FibreThere isnt a lot of information online about this one online, but I know it is a high-fibre soaked feed and costs 13.50 for a 20kg bag (and the price drops the more you buy). Quick Soak Fibre has a balanced supply of vitamins and minerals to support equine health and wellbeing. It also contains unmolassed sugarbeet. The key is that is a feed that must be soaked with water before it can be safely fed to horses, so it is a great way to boost their water intake and support hydration.Find out more about Quick Soak FibreAll about Keyflows Pink MashKeyflow describes its Pink Mash as heaven for the hindgut. It contains beetroot and linseed, which provide natural antioxidants and good quality Omega 3 in a horses diet. Its pro- and prebiotics help to support (and increase) the number of good bacteria in the horses gut.As well as being non-heating and high palatable, Pink Mash is a highly digestible fibre source making it ideal for older horses who require a partial hay replacer, horses prone to gastric ulcers, colic, loose droppings, plus older horses and any who are good doers.Pink Mash was created to restore the natural, healthy functioning of the horses gut, despite the environmental challenges that can often occur, says Keyflow.Instructions are not to mix this mash with boiling water, as thay may harm its live products. Cold water is recommended, after which it is ready to feed in two hours.Soaking time: 2 hoursFind out more about Pink MashAll about Speedi-Beet from British Horse FeedsSpeedi-Beet is 95% sugar free and is ready to feed after soaking for 10 minutes. It includes a high level of soluble fibre, mostly pectins, which makes it easy to digest and a great source of non-heating slow-release energy. Being starch-free and just 5% sugar also means it is suitable for laminitics.This is a versatile soaked horse feed. It can be given to overweight horses or good doers in small amounts to provide multivitamins and minerals, or in larger quantities for a horse or pony lacking condition and/or working hard and in need of an energy boost.Soaking instructions are one part dry Speedi-Beet to five parts water by weight (so, for example, one scoop of dry Speedi-Beet would require five scoops of water to soak). Add more water for a sloppier mash. It can be soaked in advance, but British Horse Feeds advise feeding within 24 hours of soaking.Soaking time: 10 minutesFind out more about Speedi-BeetAll about Dodson & Horrells KwikBeetKwikBeet is made up of quick-soaking unmolassed sugarbeet flakes. It is high in fibre and naturally low in sugar (5%), and ready to be fed after soaking for 10 minutes. According to D&H, it is suitable for laminitics and can be used as partial forage replacement for older equines struggling to chew.Adding KwikBeet to feed ensures fluid intake for horses who drink less in times of stress, such as while travelling or competing away from home, says D&H. Fibre encourages motility of the gut.Recommended feeding levels are a maximum of 600g per 100kg of a horses bodyweight, split over at least two or three feeds each day, alongside ad lib forage. For every 100g of dry KwikBeet, 500ml of water should be added for soaking.Soaking time: 10 minutesFind out more about KwikBeetRe-Covery Mash from Saracen Horse FeedsThis is described by Saracen as a rehydration mash, particularly suitable for horses after competing or working hard, those who are sick or recovering from illness, and any who need to drink more water. Re-Covery Mash is based on super fibres and low in starch and sugar to support gut health.Live yeast supports the gut, while vitamin E supports the immune system as well as muscle function and recovery. It is banana flavoured to appeal to fussy feeders. It includes electrolytes for optimum hydration.Re-Covery Mash is not designed to be fed alone, but as part of a balanced diet for optimum equine health. It soaks in warm water for three minutes or cold water for five minutes. Refer to the instructions on the feed bag for how much water is required.Soaking time: 3 minutes (warm water) or 5 minutes (cold water)Find out more about Re-Covery MashConsidering a soaked feedfor your horse?It is imperative that any of the feeds discussed in this article are never fed to a horse dry. You should always follow the soaking instructions on the feed bag too.Including a soaked feed like Fast Fibre Horse Feed or any of the above products is an easy and effective way to add water to your horses diet and boost hydration. This is so important for gut health and, in fact, good health in general.I have had numerous point-to-pointers and hunt horses on my yard over the years and Im sure that having a soaked feed in their diet played a key role in helping them recover. Due to wet ground, they were always stabled overnight in winter, and I know that a hydrating feed alongside ad lib forage fed from the floor helped to keep their guts healthy when movement was restricted, which helped to prevent colic.Two of my ponies who lived into their thirties one of whom was a good doer prone to laminitis enjoyed a soakablefeed too. These are very versatile products. Boosting hydration is my main motivation for feeding one, so its interesting to know how many other positive benefits they offer too. Weve come a long way since a soaked horse feed meant adding soaked sugar beet to the bucket!My top tip is to have a towel handy for wiping the tops of stable doors and mucky (but happy) muzzles after feed time. The sloppier the mash the messier it gets!Main image: copyright ShutterstockRelated content10 golden rules of feeding for a happy, healthy horseWhy every horse will benefit from eating a soaked feedInside a horses digestive system and how to keep it healthyWays to save money on horse feedThe post Complete guide to soaked feeds, including Fast Fibre Horse Feed appeared first on Your Horse.

Anatomical bridles are everywhere; used by top riders and trainers across every discipline - but how do they work and how could they benefit your horse?A well-fitting bridle is essential to training any horse - green or established. Comfort is key and a content horse is much more enjoyable to work with. Anatomical bridles are designed to avoid and relieve pressure from the most sensitive areas of the face and poll. In turn, this can create a more relaxed horse, allowing them to perform at their best.Although it's a small area, tightness and pressure on the poll can have hugely detrimental effects on your horse's performance. Discomfort in the poll can cause problems such as:Resisting/creating uneven bendHeavier in one hand than the otherFighting the contact/against the bitReluctance to step through and engage the hind endBeginning to stop at fences - causing lack of confidence in both horse and rider.The creation of our anatomical bridles focuses on forging a design that allows freedom in the poll. Here at Premier Equine, we have a range of bridles that feature a supple anatomical headpiece. Neatly padded and shaped away from the delicate areas of the poll - the specifically designed headpiece is the perfect addition to your horse's bridle.Typically, the most commonly used nosebands are the cavesson and the flash nosebands. Depending on your horse's facial conformation, they may prefer one over the other. Correct fitting of your noseband is vital. For example, a horse with a larger or wider tongue may prefer a slightly looser noseband to allow more room for salivation; whereas some horses may prefer a more fitted noseband to support the jaw and promote security in the cheek. The choice of bit and the level of training will likely affect which noseband is most suitable.We have designed equal variations of nosebands to suit most horses. Our most recent designs: the Savuto and Lambro anatomical bridles have very sleek, sweeping nosebands which avoid the sensitive areas around the cheekbones and fit neatly over the nose. Featuring a crank fixture under the jaw which is softly padded to provide the capacity for the perfect fit. The Savuto is designed with an integrated flash piece, producing an elegant finish with all the practicality of the more traditional flash noseband.For a slightly more conventional look, you may prefer the Primo Hunter bridle - perfect for the show ring, fitted with a traditional flat cavesson and brow, but neatly shaped around the poll to promote relaxation. If your horse requires a little more security, take a look at the Glorioso Grackle bridle - perfect for many disciplines.The Verduraanatomic bridle has a slightly more conservative anatomical noseband, cut away from the most sensitive facial nerves and elegantly padded across the nose. This bridle does not have a crank fitting on the noseband - but instead the more classic fitting - and is accompanied by a curved padded browband which adds a flattering shape to your horse's face and provides a little more space for the fore facial muscles.Designed around the same criteria, the Rizzo anatomic bridle is similarly designed to the Verdura anatomic bridle but comes with a removable flash attachment. If you prefer a bit of shine - the Stellazio creates a similar aesthetic but with integrated diamantes through the browband.Our entire collection of Premier Equine bridles has been crafted from premium quality Italian leather to provide your horse with a comfortable and elegant look whether you are at home or in competition.Discover the full range of anatomical bridles here.

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We are thrilled to announce that following a spectacular 2024 event, the BBC has confirmed it will continue to broadcast the Mars Badminton Horse Trials for 2025 and 2026.The renowned Horse Trials, which is staged at The Duke of Beauforts Badminton Estate, has been broadcast by the BBC since 1956 and is amongst the broadcasters longest standing sporting programmes.I always look forward to watching the BBC highlights programme as it captures all that Badminton is comprised of, comments Event Director Jane Tuckwell. We are delighted the BBC wish to carry on with their fantastic coverage of the event and look forward to the continuation of this long association.The BBC Highlights programme enables the UK audience to watch a round-up of the weeks action along with the final ten showjumping rounds. Live action will continue to be broadcast through Badminton TV each day.

If you have ever found yourself sitting on a rearing horse, you will know that it is an unpleasant and often frightening experience. It is the sort ofbehaviour that most riders fear and with good reason. Should the horse rear high enough that they lose balance and fall over backwards, you as the rider could be seriously injured. Even if they dont go that high, it is still not a nice feeling.You may be surprised to learn that only 0.01% of horses will fall over when rearing in their natural habitat, such as in the field. Its when riders get involved that the percentage of horse falls when rearing increases.Rearing up is a horse behaviour that can be predicted and therefore prevented. If your horse does go up, there are techniques you can follow to stop you sliding off, or your horse going over on top of you.How to predict rearingStunt riders and trainers Karl Greenwood and Zana Cousins-Greenwood teach riders a toolkit of techniques to take away the panic and stress associated with a horse rearing up.Some of it is mindset, explains Zana. If you know what youre doing, you wont fall off, but your brain needs to catch up.Karl adds: Lots of students tell me the thing that scares them the most is how quickly a rear happens, which leaves them unprepared for it. Actually, horses do give us signs that they are about to go up, but we have to be looking for them.Im always tuned in to my horse when I ride. Even on a quiet hack, Im aware of whats happening beneath and around me.According to the Greenwoods, if a horse is about to rear, youll feel them shorten up as if theyre about to spring forward and their ears will twitch. Bear in mind as well that a horse has to be static in order to rear, so theyll need to stop first. That might mean a horses is cantering, then they stop and start rearing, for instance.Preventing a horse from stopping, and keeping them going forward, is key to avoiding rearing up.Why do horses rear?Its essential to understand why your horse is rearing as this will help to eliminate the behaviour. Its easy to think theyre being badly behaved, but could they be in pain or feeling sore? Its vital that you rule this out first.Pain that could cause rearing up could be (and bear in mind that this is not an exhaustive list there are lots of potential causes to be on the alert for):Tooth or dental painHoof painKissing spinesSoreness in the girth areaIf your horse is prone to rearing, or suddenly starts doing it, contact your vet and rule out pain as a cause is the first thing you need to do. Once you have confirmed that pain isnt the problem, you can move on to considering whether diet and/or training are the underlying causes.Other reasons a horse may rear include:Rider holding on to the reins too tight.Horse is in panic mode.Rearing up is a natural reaction when a horse is stressed or fearful (a barking dog snapping at their legs, for example).Horse is being dominant or aggressive.Horse is over-excited.The horse is young or lacking confidence and rearing up because they dont want to go forward.Rearing up can be evasive action; for example in a young or green horse being asked to do something they dont understand, or are confused or frightened by. Rearing in this scenario is the horse saying a very loud no.Exuberance from overfeeding and not receiving the right amount of exercise.How to cope with a rearing horseZero emotion from you as the rider is the ideal approach to dealing with a rearing horse that rears. Think of it as a mix of confidence and an I can deal with this attitude. Shouting, which is easy to do when youre scared, only makes it worse.Our intellect makes us focus on the horse rearing, but this isnt the right thing to do, advises Zana.When a rearing horse goes up, more often than not their rider sits there and does nothing other than try to stay on.You need to change your behaviour from passive to active, explains Karl. The second you realise that your horse is about to rear, get them moving sideways and then onto a 10m or 15m circle. Remember they have to be static to rear, so dont let them stop. The circling exercise gives them a job to do and moves their focus from rearing onto you.Once the moment has passed, continue the exercise as if the potential rearing up hadnt happened. Ignore it and think of it as a blip. The quicker you can react and distract the horse, the quicker theyll realise that rearing isnt a way out.What to do after a horse rearsIf you do find yourself sitting atop a rearing horse, as soon as they have their front feet back on the ground, ride them forward and away from that spot.This is why we say not to grab all the way around a horses neck if theyre rearing. If you do, youre not in a great position to ride them forward when they land [you will have tipped forward on to their neck] and this is a crucial step, explains Zana.Instead, stay in the normal riding position as the horse rears. A secure lower leg will keep you in the saddle and you can relax the contact, rather than pulling on the reins. As the horse lands, tell them to walk on and ride a circle with only a light contact on their mouth.If your horse goes to rear again, continue riding them forward on a circle and telling them, with a firm voice, to walk on. The important thing here, according to Zana, is to keep your leg on and the contact relaxed.If you feel out of control, get off and do something else with your horse. In-hand work or lunging perhaps, suggests Karl. If you put the horse away with a haynet, theyll associate rearing with that reward, which will encourage them to carry on and do it again. Its effectively a reward for bad behaviour.One of the hardest things for riders to learn when sitting on a rearing horse is to give the contact away, but this is important as its the signal to your horse to come down. Be determined as they land too: they must move immediately forwards onto a circle.Sitting on a rearing horseZana explains that as a stunt rider, she trains her horses to rear on command.We do this by taking a contact and using the legs at the same time, she says.At a very basic level, the reins as an aid mean whoa and the leg aids mean go. So its easy to see how confusing these aids being used at the same time by a rider and horse who arent trained to rear can cause rearing.When riders get nervous, they put their leg on, but they also grab onto the reins, in effect asking their horse to rear, explains Zana. If the horse does then go up, a nervous rider will often keep pulling, thinking the reins will keep them on and/or using them to stay balanced. Instead, what actually happens is the rearing gets higher and this is when the horse could go over.What I need the rider to do is relax the contact and hold on tight to the mane, saddle or a neck strap whichever is easiest to grab, continues Zana. Neck straps are particularly useful and arent just for riders who lack confidence.Rider energy levels are very relevant too.When we ask one of our horses to rear, we have to create quite a bit of energy and excitement to get them in the right frame of mind for it, adds Karl. When riders get anxious, this energy transfers to their horse. The height of any rearing is directly related to this energy. Basically, more energy results in a higher rear.Managing a rearing horseA horse rearing up is an unnerving situation. My sister had an Anglo-Arab mare on loan for many years who was known for occasionally rearing. It usually happened out hacking, if for example shed been asked to stop and wait for some reason and she didnt want to. One time we were out in a group of five, waiting for our turn to jump a ditch, when she started rearing about 3ft off the ground.She was standing under a tree and hit a branch right on the poll (between her ears) and immediately stopped, put her ears back and started shaking her head.I can only assume that the collision hurt and/or scared her, because she was never known for rearing again. She had regular vet and physio checks and didnt have any other lasting effects.Thankfully, none of my own horses have ever been known for rearing up. I have had a couple of exuberant Thoroughbreds who bunny hop (which means the front legs come a couple of inches off the ground) when being impatient or wanting to go faster (such as when walking through a field). When I can feel them getting wound up beneath me, I diffuse the situation by asking them to trot on. Insisting on walking could potentially lead to something like rearing. However, I wont let a hopping horse gallop off, because that rewards undesirable behaviour.A horse rearing is frightening and if it happens to you, my advice is to ask a trainer for help ASAP.Karl and Zana ownThe Centre of Horseback Combat and the Stampede Stunt Companyin Hertfordshire, teaching horseback archery and stunt riding, as well as running confidence courses, which includes dealing with rearing. Main image: copyright Your Horse Library/Kelsey Media LtdRelated contentHow to stop a horse buckingGroundwork exercises to build trustCan you read your horses body language?Where to buy a neck strap and why you should always use oneHow much weight can a horse carry?The post How to manage a rearing horse appeared first on Your Horse.

Its a long process to make the right choice when it comes to selecting and fitting the best bit for your horse. It can seem like something of a minefield. A common tack dilemma that most equestrians have encountered throughout the years is which bit should I use for my horse? And how to know if it fits correctly.Here are our few tips and tricks to help you select the right bit for your horse and check if it fits correctly, but remember that every horse is different.How to measure your horse for the correct bit size.If your horse currently has a correctly fitting bit but you wish to buy a new one you could simply measure the size of the current one. Remember you are measuring the mouth piece side to side in between the rings.If it is a new horse or the bit that you currently have doesnt fit correctly, you can measure your horses mouth with a piece of string, fabric tape measure or a thin plastic tube. If you are using string tie a knot in one end, you could also add a bit guard to avoid pulling the string completely through the horse's mouth. Put the string through your horses mouth with the knot sitting on the outside of the lips on one side. On the other side mark onto the string with a pen or piece of tape where it meets the outside of the lips (ask a friend for help if needed). Once this has been done measure the distance between the knot and the mark/tape and this is the size of bit that you will need. If your horse is in between sizes we would suggest going up a size as a bit that is slightly bigger is better than one that is too small and may pinch your horses lips.Once you have this measurement use the guide below to determine which bit would be best for your horse.How to check if your new bit fits.There used to be a general rule of leaving one fingers width of space between your horses lips and the cheeks of the bit. In the past when all you could get was a single link bit, this rule stood pretty firm, however, nowadays there are a variety of different mouthpieces and the fit will vary slightly with each different type.No joint: These bits need to sit fairly flush with the sides of the face. Most horses will take a slightly smaller size in a Mullen bit than a jointed bit, as there is no need to allow for the bend in the mouth as the jointed bit folds around the jaw. If the bit is too big it will slide from side to side in the mouth, which is a distraction and with a port, can be very uncomfortable for the horse.Single joint: When fitting this bit, the general rule still applies and there should be a finger width (1cm -1.5cm) on both sides, between the lips and the cheeks of the bit on each side.Double joint: These bits dont have the folding action of a single jointed bit, so when fitting this bit, its important that you dont have too much room between the bit and the lips, or when a contact is taken there will be too much bit and this will cause excessive side to side movement in the mouth. If it is a loose ring, so long as the lips are 0.5 of a cm clear of the bevel holes, then with the contact applied there should be plenty of room to avoid pinching of the lips.Double bit sets: A general rule of thumb, your bradoon size is the same as your normal snaffle bit and will generally sit in the same place as your snaffle, though some horses fit the double better with their bradoon a inch bigger to give more room in the mouth for the two bits. Your Weymouth bit will be a inch size smaller. It is a ported bit, so needs to sit quite flush and it also sits on the slightly narrower, lower part of the jawThere are many factors to take into consideration when choosing your bit:Choosing the thickness: To start; consider the thickness.When taking into consideration the thickness of a bit you should also consider the size of the horses/ ponys mouth as a thicker bit may not suit the conformation of your horses mouth.The thinner the mouthpiece, the more the horse will feel the effect of the rein pressure. Thinner bits should encourage more of a reaction to the contact.Thicker bits are often a good option for young horses or horses that have a sensitive mouth as the pressure of a thin bit can be too sharp. If youre after a thick bit, the Hollow Mouth Eggbutt Snaffle could be a good option as its 21mm wide. The thickness of all of our bits can be found in the product description (measurement A).Choosing the mouthpiece:No joints: These bits are also known as straight bar or Mullen mouth (or ported) bit and have no joint in them. Check out our Blue Sweet Iron Loose Ring Mullen Mouth Snaffle.Single jointed: This is a common two-piece mouthpiece. The joint in the mouth piece allows the rider to apply pressure to one side of the mouth more than the other. These bits can, however, have a nutcracker effect, when the bit moves the joint will move up and down. This could be a problem for a horse with little room between their tongue and roof of the mouth as it can clash with the roof of the horses mouth or the tongue causing discomfort. Take a look at our Jointed Flat Ring Eggbutt Snaffle.Double jointed: These bits are split into different sections with an extra piece in between the two halves. There are different forms the extra piece can take such as a French link (flat) or a lozenge (rounded). These bits reduce the nutcracker effect and are therefore more comfortable for many horses. However, the extra link applies more pressure on the tongue and not all horses like this extra pressure. Take a gander at the Brass Alloy Training Bit with Lozenge.Roller bits: Some bits have rollers on the mouthpiece. These are movable pieces that the horse can rotate using their tongue. The idea behind these bits is that it encourages the horse to mouth and play with the bit, helping them to become more relaxed in the mouth and jaw resulting in them hopefully being more accepting of the bit. The most common roller bit is the Copper Roller Mouth Dee Bit.Waterford bit: This bit is comprised of multiple joints and links giving it the appearance of a chain. The entire mouthpiece is movable and encourages a horse to play with the links in their mouth. The bit also encourages the horse to relax and soften the jaw. If the horse attempts to lean or grab hold of the bit the joint collapse and move around preventing this and as a result of this they are typically softer on the reins and therefore reducing them leaning or pulling. In which case the Waterford is a relatively strong and severe bit so is best to be used for those very strong horses*. *A Waterford bit needs to be to an inch larger than the horses normal bit size to fit correctly as the mouthpiece of the bit needs to curl around the horses lips to allow the bit to work to its full potential. Have a glance at our Brass Alloy Hanging Cheek with Waterford Mouth.Pelham: This bit combines the action of a curb rein with a snaffle bit. The Pelham is more severe than other snaffles as it has a leverage action on the jaw. However, for showing the Pelham is much softer than a double bridle (see next option). The snaffle rein on a Pelham helps to lift the horse's head, and the curb rein helps to encourage flexion. Have a browse of the Double-Jointed Pelham with Copper Lozenge.Weymouth: Traditionally you would use a Weymouth (also known as a curb) and bradoon. A Weymouth has a ported mouth piece to make room for the tongue. The bradoon is a slimmed down version of a regular snaffle. The bradoon should be to inch longer to ensure both bits lie flat. Not all horses like the feel of a Weymouth as they take up a lot of room in the horses mouth. Take a look at the Port Mouth Weymouth Bit Set.WARNING there arestill more choices to be made!Choosing the right style of bit ring:Loose Ring: The rings can rotate through bevel holes in which are attached to the mouthpiece. This allows the mouthpiece some independence from the rein contact in terms of being able to move in with the horses tongue and jaw. This action makes it hard for the horse to lean on or take hold of the bit.Eggbutt: This is a fixed ring option that offers consistency in the mouth. The mouthpiece is less able to follow the movements from the rein contact. Some horses may prefer this consistency while others may find it more restricting and unnatural. A fixed ring isnt the best option for horses that have the tendency to lean.Full cheek: This can be a good option for a young or inexperienced horse. The bars that protrude up the cheek help with head direction and turning. When turning, rein pressure applies to one side more than the other, this will encourage the horse to turn with its head, this is useful for horses who are learning to respond to aids or those who try to tilt their heads to avoid pressure on the rein.Hanging cheek: This option is believed to exert a small amount of poll pressure making it easier for the rider to ask the horse for flexion and softness in the head. Due to this bit staying in a fixed position it can enhance the communication between the horse and the rider.Gag: There are many different styles of gag with the Dutch gag being one of the most popular. A gag is a leverage bit thatapplies pressure to the poll. You can simply choose the leverage by the different rings on the bit. Some gags have two or three rings. The lower down the ring you choose, the more leverage you get and therefore greater pressure. Two reins or a rounding should be used with this bit.Tom Thumb: The tom thumb is a great bit to encourage the horse to improve their head carriage. By adding slight pressure to the poll, it encourages the horse to lower their head. Along with the lower loop on the bit which adds slight pressure to the tongue encouraging the horse to soften their head into the bit.Bevel: A bevel bit is a way to softly add poll pressure to encourage the horse to soften in the reins, lower their head carriage and gain contact with the bit. The bevel action provides more brake-power so is ideal for those horses who needs something slightly stronger than a snaffle.LAST STEP! Nearly thereChoosing the material:Stainless Steel: This is the most common material that horse bits are made from. These bits do not rust and have a neutral taste. Check out our range of Stainless Steel Horse Bits.Copper/Brass Alloy: When your horse's saliva reacts with copper it causes the metal to rust. This makes the bit give off a sweet taste. Some horses also like the warmer feel in the mouth than a stainless steel one. Brass alloy bits are alloyed with copper to produce a strong durable metal. Check out our range of Brass Alloy Horse Bits.Sweet Iron: These bits will rust when in contact with your horse's saliva, this in turn creates a sweet flavour that should encourage them to produce more saliva and mouth on the bit. Most horses enjoy the taste of this bit. And dont be alarmed if it changes colour, that is the rust and this is meant to happen. Check out our range of Sweet Iron Horse Bits.Rubber: These lightweight but strong coverings are normally found on stainless steel bits. These bits are good for horses that dont like the cold sensation of metal in their mouth. Some of these bits might have a flavour to encourage mouthing and salivation. These might not be the best bit if you have a horse who chews heavily on their bit as these may become out of shape and teeth marks can make a rough surface, meaning the bit will need to be replaced more frequently. Check out our range of Rubber Horse Bits.This concludes the end of our guide to selecting and fitting your Premier Equine Horse Bit. If you are still struggling to determine which bit would best suit your horse you may want to seek out the advise of a professional bitting specialist who will be able to advise you further.Pair our horse bits with our wonderful range of Anatomical Bridles and Reins.